Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[holemilk00]

Originally Posted by collegekid

Thank you both for answering me nicely. I appreciate it fellas


I do have another question though. For my 240, I am completely stripping the under body down to bare metal (Removing all of the rubberized undercoat/sound deadener) My plan is to

-strip it all
-Paint some primer
-Use some rust preventative such as por15, Eastwood Rust encapsulater, Herculiner or some tough material
-paint it with a few coats on top so that all I have to do is check for peeling in an area and then just paint some more on top

My question is, what Kind of durable material do you guys recommend for me to apply over the primer to protect my undercarriage?

There are several options, you can actually redo the undercoating if you wanted. Or there is a material called duraback that is pretty knarly. We used a few different things in here.

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...ilthy-s13.html

[PrimeDirective]

Do I have one USDM and one fucking JDM headlight? I went to change the bulbs that I had assumed burnt out and come to find that the head light on the left doesn't use the same center bulb as the headlight on the right.

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by rwtf

Does anyone know whats the best way to seal a barb fitting on IC piping? I've tried teflon tape and WB weld but it doesn't really work and i think its still leaking, any advice?

red thread lock worked for me. after trying this and you still have a leak, maybe your hole is too big.

[Mrpopo]

S14 with s15 sr20de swap. Gauge cluster, interior lights, and tail/brake lights aren't working. Fuses are all good. Any ideas?

[bc.]

Originally Posted by VNG704

maybe your hole is too big.

QFT

Originally Posted by Mrpopo

S14 with s15 sr20de swap. Gauge cluster, interior lights, and tail/brake lights aren't working. Fuses are all good. Any ideas?

Does it run?
Does the battery work?
Are the wires connected?
Have you check your tailpipe for bananas?

[Mrpopo]

Starts, runs, and drives perfect. No bananas

[rwtf]

Originally Posted by VNG704

red thread lock worked for me. after trying this and you still have a leak, maybe your hole is too big.

lol I'll try it, Its def not to big, I have to use a wrench to move it, it doesnt move by hand so its tight as a butthole.

[Irresistible]

If you have one of those that go on the coupler, maybe a silicone sealant would do the job.

[trxrx7]

Originally Posted by Mrpopo

S14 with s15 sr20de swap. Gauge cluster, interior lights, and tail/brake lights aren't working. Fuses are all good. Any ideas?

sounds like a short. car factory's usually wire up the dash and tail lights together so that you know your tails aren't working when the dash goes out, had it twice on my old beaters always turned out to be a short by the radio, but again my fuses blew. id check them again

[Mrpopo]

Thanks I'll look for shorts

[PrimeDirective]

bump for my question about the headlights above

[codyace]

Originally Posted by rwtf

Does anyone know whats the best way to seal a barb fitting on IC piping? I've tried teflon tape and WB weld but it doesn't really work and i think its still leaking, any advice?

If JB weld isn't working, then there isn't much option other than another epoxy type. You are letting it sit and harden right?

Originally Posted by MAHALOHAWAII

any one ordered or using power stop brake rotors?

please pm me.

What's the end goal of your car? I'd suggest just regular old parts store ones, they work great. Drilled and slotted IMO is overkill.

Originally Posted by MAHALOHAWAII

BRAKE LINE HELP!

StopTech VS. Goodridge VS Agency Power???

All 3 will work great for you. Dont' forget to check Summitt and Jegs for good pricing on lines.

Originally Posted by tengo240

cool thanks , also maybe you know , ive been running bkre7 ngk plugs on the box it says bkre 7-11 , what does the -11 mean ?
its on a sr20 redtop ,13-15 pounds

-11 is the preset gap from NGK. You can run the -11 or the regular bkre7 without issue, just gap it down to .028 or so and enjoy

Originally Posted by Roscoe.

I'm at a bit of a loss, though fully prepared to accept that it's simply my stupidity. I'm trying to swap from stock cams to Tomei 260 poncams on an S14 SR (outside of the car), with Circuit Sports adjustable gears to delete VTC. I'm trying to set mechanical timing to TDC and running into a bit of an issue. I've cranked the motor around 40 times and the best I can get is the notches on the gears at Intake Side 10 O'Clock, Exhaust Side 12 O'Clock, like it's meant to be, but not only are the timing links on the chain 2 links off (stage left), and the crank pulley second notch to the right versus the left. Is my timing just spectacularly off or am I doing something wrong? If it is off, how should I go about fixing it? Timing is not my strong suit. Thanks for any help.

You do you have the cam gears on the correct cams right?

With that said, I dont' follow those links too wholeheartedly as they are decieving at times.

I just put them motor to TDC (obviously) get the cams sorted to where they need to be in relation to the keyways, and make sure there are 20 links between the dots on the cam gears themselves.

Here is a copy paste of the OG Enthalpy cam alignment setup. Easier to copy/paste than re type it all:

SR20DET Camshaft Installation Procedure

1. Set crank to top dead center (TDC)…2nd mark from the left on the pulley. With the #1 cam lobes facing away from each other.
2. Remove tensioner.
3. Look at the front of the exhaust cam. You will see that there is a pin that locks the cam to the gear. You will also see a dot stamped into the cam gear at approximately 1 O’clock. This dot is used to mark tooth #1.
4. Starting from exhaust cam tooth #1 count (clockwise) the number of teeth until the top surface of the head. The head should be between 8 and 9 teeth.
5. Adjust cam position as necessary.
6. Find the DOT on intake cam. Once again this is tooth #1. Count COUNTER-clockwise to the top of the head. You should find that the top of the head should be between 4½ and 5½ teeth. Adjust as necessary.
7. Count the number of chain pins between the 2 dots across the top. You should count 20 pins.
8. Install tensioner. Rotate engine 2 full turns and slowly bring it back to TDC ( #1 lobes out)
9. Re-inspect cam position as listed above. Repeat if necessary.
10. Install CAS according to FSM procedure.

[OrangeVirus1]

Welding advice? I decided to buy my first welder so I can weld my exhaust parts instead of always going to the shop and paying 20 bucks per welb..
I read making little e's make it cleaner, I actually made a decent line making small circles..
but Also I get alot of splatter and I burned a a hole or two into the pipe too.

this is just a practice pipe anyway.
So this was my very first attempt.. I have never welded before.. ever. so don't go crazy I know it is total shit.


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[Juantwo3]

FENDER ROLLERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

does anyone know anyone that rolls fenders with a fender roller

to many people on craigslist charge alot might as well by a dam fender roller

anyone in the o.c or i.e area?????
get at me!!!

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by Juantwo3

FENDER ROLLERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

does anyone know anyone that rolls fenders with a fender roller

to many people on craigslist charge alot might as well by a dam fender roller

anyone in the o.c or i.e area?????
get at me!!!

Post this shit in the local boards. This is for more general questions, not labor requests...

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1

Welding advice? I decided to buy my first welder so I can weld my exhaust parts instead of always going to the shop and paying 20 bucks per welb..
I read making little e's make it cleaner, I actually made a decent line making small circles..
but Also I get alot of splatter and I burned a a hole or two into the pipe too.

this is just a practice pipe anyway.
So this was my very first attempt.. I have never welded before.. ever. so don't go crazy I know it is total shit.


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Before you start going nuts welding up pipe, get some flat metal to practice with. Make sure it's the same thickness as the exhaust pipe metal. Set the flat pieces down, and attach them together with small clamps that you do not mind getting slag on. Set the amperage for your welder to about 80 amps to begin, and adjust to no more than about 125. The amperage is dependent on the thickness of the metal. Start by tacking a small weld at one end of the flat pieces, then the other, then make small attaching welds back and forth. This prevents warping. Now lay a small bead between the points by making one at one end, then the other end and working from the center out after that. Practice this until you get both pieces welded without warping them, or burning holes through the edges. Now you are ready for pipe. Practice with short scraps until you can lay a bead all the way around after making four tack welds at N, S, W, and E, or every 90*.
Beads: small circles, moving toward yourself. The speed of making the circle is dependent on how well the metal is flowing together. What you are doing, is puddling the bead on itself so it looks smooth. Once you have the bead, you need to use a welding hammer to knock off the slag and see what you really did.
Holes. Holes take a shit ton of practice to not screw up. Set small beads at the edges. Knock off the slag. Set more edge beads. Do this until you have connected the hole together with small beads all the way to the center. Now, making very small over beads, lay the weld from center to outer edge. Remove the slag, file it down to look for pinholes, weld the holes, file down again until smooth and perfect.

I grew up welding when my Pop was teaching apprentices. It takes LOTS of practice to get really good, and even to get good enough to weld pipe. Go get a shit ton of scrap to work with before you attack your own pipes and stuff...you do not want to spend good money because you screwed something up

[tengo240]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

Post this shit in the local boards. This is for more general questions, not labor requests...

buy a roller and try it your self , it goes back to the whole "dont ask someone else to do something for you cause you think they can do it better "just buy one take your time and figure it out .... and if your not happy just return it ,thats what reciepts are for .

[tengo240]

-11 is the preset gap from NGK. You can run the -11 or the regular bkre7 without issue, just gap it down to .028 or so and enjoy



great, thank you .

[OrangeVirus1]

So I figured out the reason I got so much splatter and my welds looked shitty is I was holding the weld gun?? too far .. whatever it's called

[codyace]

Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1

So I figured out the reason I got so much splatter and my welds looked shitty is I was holding the weld gun?? too far .. whatever it's called

What type of welder did you get?

[OrangeVirus1]

Harbor Frieght 170 amp Mig welder / flux core welder

[OrangeVirus1]

Ok new question, because I still haven't quite figured out..

What exactly are the :
Kouki's
Zooki's
Zenki's
Zimbabwe's

and all that, what is that ? a Zenki/zooki is a s13 and Kouki / ???? / ???? is a s14 or?

[lalo167]

Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1

Ok new question, because I still haven't quite figured out..

What exactly are the :
Kouki's
Zooki's
Zenki's
Zimbabwe's

and all that, what is that ? a Zenki/zooki is a s13 and Kouki / ???? / ???? is a s14 or?

First of all, did you not read the title of this thread?
"SEARCH FIRST"

Second, where did you even find the words zookis and zimbabwe's?!

Third, I typed in "nissan zenki" on google and the first link was....
What is a Nissan zenki and what is a kouki? - Yahoo! Answers

[lalo167]

Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1

Harbor Frieght 170 amp Mig welder / flux core welder

Like other said above, practice on some sheet metal first. You don't want to end up ruining your pipe.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by lalo167

First of all, did you not read the title of this thread?
"SEARCH FIRST"

Second, where did you even find the words zookis and zimbabwe's?!

Third, I typed in "nissan zenki" on google and the first link was....
What is a Nissan zenki and what is a kouki? - Yahoo! Answers

From diehard S Chassis experts:

S13 Model Year '89 - '90, simply S13
S13 Model Year '91 - '94, Hatchback's are Chuki's,
S14 Model Year '94 - '96 are Zenki's
S14 Model Year '97 - '98 is a Kouki
S15 Models typically go by Spec S, Spec R, Aero, or the actual model type name

American S13's came with KA24E SOHC motors, with most Chuki's having the venerable truck tested KA24DE DOHC. The Zenki uses the KA24DE as does the Kouki.
From a 30 year Nissan Mechanic who has owned and worked on every single type(cannot verify accuracy to this, but he stands by it): "There is a rumor that some, very few, American Kouki's had the SR20DE in them. These cars came with full leather interiors, the works" I think these, if they exist, would be unicorns, but, to support this, the SR20DE is used in Nissan SUV's and trucks with RWD from '98 on as their US engine being typical over the obsoleted KA series.
Also, there are a few shops that specialize in the non turbo SR's and are getting a nominal 280hp - 350hp out of them with ITB's, hot cams, and high compression(11:1), but these are seriously track oriented engines as their performance kicks in around 2800rpm and goes to 7500rpm which isn't really all that streetable unless you like a super revvy car, and enjoy driving around with the motor running over 3000rpms all the time to stay in the performance part of the power band

[Piggy]

Anyone know where to get nice aftermarket Gs300 bumpers? Pm if you want.

[collegekid]

Originally Posted by holemilk00

There are several options, you can actually redo the undercoating if you wanted. Or there is a material called duraback that is pretty knarly. We used a few different things in here.

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...ilthy-s13.html

Once again thanks for the help my friend.


So I am finishing up the front 5 lug/R33 brakes on my car and am moving onto the rear 5 lug/z32, I am putting on some powder coated S14 SE wheels.

Is it safe to use aftermarket lug nuts on stock wheels? I have read about the 60 degree taper on the tuner style lug nuts. I just got my wheels pc'd and new tires a few months ago and now I can finally use them. Do I have to stick with the OEM lug nuts? I saw that someone posted up some kind of adapter so you can use the conical type lug nuts with the stock wheels.
Here is the adapter
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/me...ct_Code=WHL005

or should I just get some of these?

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/me...s-and-lug-nuts




It's just on there loosely as a kind of test fit. Should I just rattle can the lug nuts and get a set of locking lug nuts? (Considering I am 4 lug nuts short)

[bik]

Hi

Sorry my english is bad O_o

I have a problem i need to remove the plastic thing on the center of the centercap of my euroline wheel, look pretty stick to me and i am afraid to break it, i need to remove because i need to weld the ring (1) i already tryed with one of those epoxy krazy glue thing and failed (2), my welding guy say if he weld it like this the plastic will burn or melt. any ideas how to safe it unglue it?

Ty for your help

ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

stupid photobucket not working for me anymore dont know how to use imageshack haha =/

[bc.]

Originally Posted by collegekid

It's just on there loosely as a kind of test fit. Should I just rattle can the lug nuts and get a set of locking lug nuts? (Considering I am 4 lug nuts short)

Just use stock lug nuts, not sure why stock wheels deserve or require anything more than stock nuts. Having 5 on each wheel would be nice though, so pick some used ones up for cheap.

[FourtyKid]

Tip: Quit using Photobucket and Imageshack. Use Imgur instead.