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Old 03-29-2013, 04:39 PM   #13231
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What is this sensor thing? And can I unplug it? It's in the middle bar in front of the radiator. Same bar that supports the hood latch. It's getting in the way of me mounting my FMIC...

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Old 03-29-2013, 05:07 PM   #13232
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OK guys I need some Zilvia knowledge... My rb20 swap Alternator will not freaking charge.. I don't get it.

The rb alternator wouldn't charge originally, so I swapped it for a KA alternator. worked.

My alternator was charging about 14.2 volts.

I take it for a little test run around the block ( which was fucking amazing )

I shut the car off, DEAD.

Jump it, drive it into my driveway. all good. shut it off. start it up again nothing. dead.

Alternator won't charge at all now. zip zada nothing.

I checked the ground checked the wires checked the belt but I'm lost..

God this thing is pissing me off. if it wasn't for the fact that the Damn thing pulls like a train in boost, i'd scrap it lol. BTW this turbo is freaking amazing, I was already at 5 psi before 3k RPM! I didn't take it past 3k rpm lol and that wasn't even floored!

Also the turbo spools SO FREAKING LOUD like a diesel.. god I wish I got a video.

anyway need some alternator help please
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:57 PM   #13233
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Any know if the things boxed in red are bolted on or welded to rad support?

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Old 03-29-2013, 07:58 PM   #13234
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Those are bumper brackets for the front bumper. remove them and sell them to me ?
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:55 PM   #13235
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Did you check the alternator fuse?
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:57 PM   #13236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1 View Post
Those are bumper brackets for the front bumper. remove them and sell them to me ?
its not my car, mine are missing, and I need them.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:58 PM   #13237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1 View Post
OK guys I need some Zilvia knowledge... My rb20 swap Alternator will not freaking charge.. I don't get it.

The rb alternator wouldn't charge originally, so I swapped it for a KA alternator. worked.

My alternator was charging about 14.2 volts.

I take it for a little test run around the block ( which was fucking amazing )

I shut the car off, DEAD.

Jump it, drive it into my driveway. all good. shut it off. start it up again nothing. dead.

Alternator won't charge at all now. zip zada nothing.

I checked the ground checked the wires checked the belt but I'm lost..

God this thing is pissing me off. if it wasn't for the fact that the Damn thing pulls like a train in boost, i'd scrap it lol. BTW this turbo is freaking amazing, I was already at 5 psi before 3k RPM! I didn't take it past 3k rpm lol and that wasn't even floored!

Also the turbo spools SO FREAKING LOUD like a diesel.. god I wish I got a video.

anyway need some alternator help please

did you check the alternator fuse?
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:58 PM   #13238
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damn. so Do I lol

yes I checked the fuse
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:46 PM   #13239
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damn. so Do I lol

yes I checked the fuse
yeah the guy who I got my car from did a piss poor job of installing the pbm hmic and now i'm fixing it, I'm thinking about just getting some metal bars and fabing something up
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:19 AM   #13240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irresistible View Post
What is this sensor thing? And can I unplug it? It's in the middle bar in front of the radiator. Same bar that supports the hood latch. It's getting in the way of me mounting my FMIC...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8098/8...ee7c65bd_c.jpg
Ok, so I figured out it's the ambient air temperature sensor. What exactly is its purpose? And what will happen if I unplug it and leave it out? Do I need it? Because it's in the way of my intercooler like I said, so I'd have to relocate it...
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:00 AM   #13241
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That 'tuner lug nut not fitting right on oem wheels' may have been true many years ago. Here's a fact on anything marketed as a lug nut 'currently'.:
They MUST conform to fit ALL wheel base holes with a spec force(That spec would be 85'#). The main difference in all lug nuts is the thickness of the shaft/neck/ whatever you name it.
IF you go using tuner lugs on your wheels on a DD, tighten them with a basic torque wrench, drive 40 miles, check them, then check the fuckers once a week. Why? Because, they are ALUMINUM and your lugs are STEEL. This means that if there is even the slightest imbalance in your wheel/tire the difference in the metals will cause the lugs to loosen. My OEM's are balanced right, but I still keep a tool box in the trunk filled with tire repair shit to include a torque wrench to check my lugs once a week.
Those chrome OEM lugs, well, they can torque to 110'# lock them down, then check them in 40 miles and forget about them.

ps If you had bought Mutekis(some others) you could have got a 5 lug set. If you go buying four lug sets, well, buy two, or spend the big bucks and buy the suckers by the piece
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:08 AM   #13242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwtf View Post
Any know if the things boxed in red are bolted on or welded to rad support?

The attaching points are in the top inner part of the picture. Some are usually fastened with big rivets, but later models after April 95 should have bolts. Either way, should you locate new ones, use bolts

Nissan Parts | Online Nissan OEM Parts and Accessories type in VIN, search menu for bumper...the parts ie, brackets are listed in stock for under $10ea
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:24 AM   #13243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1 View Post
OK guys I need some Zilvia knowledge... My rb20 swap Alternator will not freaking charge.. I don't get it.

The rb alternator wouldn't charge originally, so I swapped it for a KA alternator. worked.

My alternator was charging about 14.2 volts.

I take it for a little test run around the block ( which was fucking amazing )

I shut the car off, DEAD.

Jump it, drive it into my driveway. all good. shut it off. start it up again nothing. dead.

Alternator won't charge at all now. zip zada nothing.

I checked the ground checked the wires checked the belt but I'm lost..

Have you tried a different battery?
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:33 AM   #13244
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so i recently got a tomei elbow , i cant really tell by looking at the o2 hole but does anyone know if it uses a fat or skinny o2? i think its fat but should probly double check with anyone else who has one , thanks

edit , its a s13 redtop.

Last edited by tengo240; 03-30-2013 at 08:33 AM.. Reason: oooohhhh
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:07 AM   #13245
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Have you tried a different battery?
yes 3 different batteries.

it was weird it was working fine, and then a 5 minute drive around the block I come back and dead
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:46 AM   #13246
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Quote:
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so i recently got a tomei elbow , i cant really tell by looking at the o2 hole but does anyone know if it uses a fat or skinny o2? i think its fat but should probly double check with anyone else who has one , thanks

edit , its a s13 redtop.
Tomei elbow uses "fat" o2 sensor. You can get an adapter though, off like eBay for a few bucks.
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:48 PM   #13247
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Are heater hoses supposed to be clamped down?
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:29 PM   #13248
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Are heater hoses supposed to be clamped down?
probably, or they will leak.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:48 PM   #13249
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Tomei elbow uses "fat" o2 sensor. You can get an adapter though, off like eBay for a few bucks.
thanks , i just looked thru this bag of hardware it came with and found an adapter in it . thanks anyway thou .i should have looked first asked later
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:47 PM   #13250
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95 s14... Two white female plugs behind where the ecu is on the passenger kick panel. What do they go to? Is something supposed to be plugged in there? Thanks
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:41 AM   #13251
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anyone happen to know if j30 and m30 flcas will work with s13 and s14's? im thinking of getting some from the junk yard but dont wanna waste money if they wont work, i realize itll need a new ball joint.
still wondering if theres any info on this? let me know pls
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:07 AM   #13252
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Will I be able to run a 17x9 +15 rim on my S13 silvia without rolling or pulling the fender (stretched tires of course) or having it look like shit? (keep in mind I'm not all about the herrafrush)
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:05 AM   #13253
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Working on my brothers s13 last night to replace a leaky power steering high pressure line. I'm having a tough time disconnecting the bottom hard line from the high pressure one ( near the sensor?) that also connects down there. We got the banjo one off at the top with a bit out a struggle but I can't get the bottom one out to save my life. Are they really that tough? Or should I just go ahead and replace the hard line also?
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:03 AM   #13254
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Does the TCU stay plugged up after a 5speed swap on an s14?
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:29 PM   #13255
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Does anyone know whats the best way to seal a barb fitting on IC piping? I've tried teflon tape and WB weld but it doesn't really work and i think its still leaking, any advice?
ive used liquid gasket maker (high temp silicone) with success
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:03 PM   #13256
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hand brake

i have an s14 i broke the bolt that tightens up the brake would an s13 one work or would i have to try and find another s14 hand brake? thank you!
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:13 PM   #13257
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So I swapped in a 300zx (z32) alternator and it is charging right up!

and btw the way, a 300zx alternator is a very easy swap compared to a quest. on a RB20.
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:14 PM   #13258
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ive used liquid gasket maker (high temp silicone) with success
yeah use some high temp gasket maker. that stuff is tough.

and JBweld is garbage the only way I have ever got JB weld to work successfully was when I added Aluminum Powder into it
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:37 PM   #13259
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Hey guys/ gals, I was wondering if any of you used ARC-8000R Control Panel Kit. Did u have any problems? I was trying to figure how to set the timing for the pop up lights, and wiring up the heater core. Please chime in if your using this product successfuly, thanks!

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Old 03-31-2013, 09:52 PM   #13260
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Any folks recommend specific replacement rear axle boots? I noticed some grease on my undercarriage and sure enough there was a fairly small tear in one of the boots.

I remember on here some people hate Autozone boots, but O'Reillys work great or vice-versa or something.

I'm pretty sure it tore because my car is low so I'd like to get something that will withstand abuse a little better than OEM is possible.
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