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Old 05-29-2013, 12:40 PM   #13831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bc. View Post
Yeah, that other dude is confused. The M1-108 is for the s14sr and that is why it popped off that kids block (obviously it doesn't fit). If you want a bigger filter than the M1-108, you can get the M1-110.


He is right though, you don't need a BOV, some turbos have antisurge built into them. Or you could just be happy with destroying your turbo 1000 times quicker than normal (which is what I assume this kid is gonna do).
Hence my comment about pbm having $ to replace turbos but yeah he'll just do what he wants. I feel bad for that little t25
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:53 PM   #13832
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Have a little question, it may be something serious or just a little problem...
Anyways, the first time i start up my KA24E each day it always dies then i turn the key again, and it fires back up sounds super healthy. This only happens on the first start ups on each day which is usually mornings. Through out the rest of the day the car turns on fine. I know cold starts are always a bitch for cars but It is still wierd how it dies or struggles to turn over. It doesnt shut off all the time but it does struggle. All i know is theres oil, it shouldn't be the starter since it doesn't click, the alternator is new, and the battery is used but should be good. Well everything should be fine on my car, its only the first start ups on each day that the car struggles/ shuts off.... What could it be?? IS the battery shitty which isnt giving the car enough juice, so its discharging a little over night.... I really dont know, i'm glad i'm experiencing this problem so later on i know what to do if i ever have the same problem on another s chasis
any help is appreciated!
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:03 PM   #13833
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is there any way to do a leakdown test on a heater core?

in the past 2 days there has been mild rain in my area, and i've developed a rather large water accumulation in the passenger footwell. I can't tell if its my coolant since i run distilled water, but my radiator is full...
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:09 PM   #13834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
is there any way to do a leakdown test on a heater core?

in the past 2 days there has been mild rain in my area, and i've developed a rather large water accumulation in the passenger footwell. I can't tell if its my coolant since i run distilled water, but my radiator is full...
You might want to look at all your seals quickly, your ecu happens to be down there
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:36 PM   #13835
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So nobody knows off the top of their head what this noise is?
Sr20 issue video for zilvia - YouTube
Zilvia video #2 - YouTube
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:45 PM   #13836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dev71893 View Post
How does the routing of the pbm high mount make any difference? Your throttle plate still shuts all the way when you let off the throttle and your still going to get compressor surge. Pbm may not run BOV's so you shift into boost but they have $ to replace turbos.
uh thanks for the advice man but I don't want/need a bov , pretty sure this is the small question thread not the give advice /facts thread , you don't need a bov , I also have quite a few turbos (t28's) laying around incase the "dreaded compressor surge " happens ,either way I already found out ,thanks bruh
gonna just cap the plug .
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:38 PM   #13837
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Is there any benefits with going with a wheel with a "Stepped Lip" as opposed to a Straight lip (I heard its called Reverse lip)...?
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:42 PM   #13838
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Quote:
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You might want to look at all your seals quickly, your ecu happens to be down there
i know about the ecu, not that worried about it since it didn't get that full, but i am looking to check for leaks on my seals and grommets tomorrow
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:37 PM   #13839
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what are the best s14 outter tie rods you can buy 1st 2nd then 3rd choice

doing a angel kit so i figured i might as well upgrade those while everythings off

thanks
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:09 PM   #13840
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Can you hurt your engine by leaving the oil pan off? I have mine in my garage on jackstands and I broke the old pan trying to get it off, and now I have a bag loosely covering the inside of the oil pan to keep debris out
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:06 AM   #13841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HipHopHippo View Post
Can you hurt your engine by leaving the oil pan off? I have mine in my garage on jackstands and I broke the old pan trying to get it off, and now I have a bag loosely covering the inside of the oil pan to keep debris out
OK, if you cover everything so NOTHING can get in, you are fine

PLEASE STOP WORKING ON YOUR ENGINE! You are making my Car Gods cry in pain knowing each time you touch it you BREAK SHIT! I sincerely hope that you now have an alter to the Gods of Speed so that each time you bust your knuckles and break parts you can make an offering to them so it may stop.
I wonder if you are actually getting an education in how to do stuff right, or if you are furthering the myth that everyone who owns a silvia is a walking clusterfuck that can't work on jack shit without breaking it. Right now, I am actually seeing the latter. You broke rocker arm stuff, and lunched your engine. Now tryint to repair your engine, you have lunched an item that, to this point in time, I was certain was unfuckwithable, but YOU have fucked it up!

DO us a favor man, I love you are trying to do it on your own, but PLEASE, go read this book so you can get some basic fundamentals when you are trying to fuck shit up, and maybe, by the time you are done, you will not have fucked shit up, but will have actually done the job right:

Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine

I totally get it, this book is for SOHC engines, BUT THE FUNDAMENTALS ARE THE SAME! READ THE SHIT! EDUCATE YOURSELF at least a little!

And if you do not have an alter to the Gods of Speed, get on your knees and choke yourself. Mine so far has a bent con rod, broken spark plug, cracked cylinder, a set of lunched pushrods, a cracked silencer, and about 20 or 30 drops of busted knuckle blood. All my offerings are from GOING FAST. That is just the small one I have here. The one in my Pop's garage in Nor-Cal, well, it's got V8 parts and a shit ton of blood from really beating up shit going fast. Come on man, we love ya, but please stop breaking your car trying to fix it!
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:11 AM   #13842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maiku240sxS14 View Post
Is there any benefits with going with a wheel with a "Stepped Lip" as opposed to a Straight lip (I heard its called Reverse lip)...?
depends...

is it more, or less rigid that the other type? You want a wheel to be rigid so it does not flex during hard driving

is it lighter than the other type? Less unsprung weight = quicker acceleration and braking

does it offer rigidity and lightweight in a nice looking package? this is what an optimal wheel does, case in point may be the current TE37's compared to the new TE37RT(the sexy red one). The red one is more rigid, but weighs slightly more, but is overall, a better wheel

do chicks dig it? when she looks at it, does she get all moist and warm so her legs get all bendy and want to open up? If not find something else!
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:55 AM   #13843
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How do I post a picture ???
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:34 PM   #13844
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Does anyone know the bolt size/length for these two:



Edit:

@confuzedd; use imageshack.us
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Old 06-01-2013, 07:41 AM   #13845
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Quote:
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Does anyone know the bolt size/length for these two:



Edit:

@confuzedd; use imageshack.us
I would take that to the Nissan dealer to get the right bolt size. Other option is as follows:
Go to a hardware store that sells bolts etc, to normal/commercial accounts. Tell them you need a metric and an SAE thread pitch guage tool, and a tool to check thread sized holes. They will smile at you, then either hand you the right stuff, or show it to you and explain how it works. These tools will help you to figure these out on your own and get the right stuff each time without even looking online or in a book
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:41 AM   #13846
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what size filter do i need to buy for my hks mushroom filter intake? the base of my filter measures 7.5 inches.
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Old 06-01-2013, 09:42 AM   #13847
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Quote:
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OK, bad news is this is going to cost you...at least a rebuild gasket set and time if YOU do it yourself. Here it is, you got metal all inside your engine. Tear it TOTALLY apart, clean it up, and rebuild it. If you break stuff, replace it with new stuff.
Shop rate for rebuilding an engine, depending on what you want in it may run 2500 - 5500
A place in NC builds nice engines, turbo ready, or NA for around $3500(GOOD internals, you know the names of the brands)
Oh Im a potato and I realized those arent metal shavings theyre little chunks of sealant that probably got mixed in when i took the pan off. AND THATS OK id rather make a dumb mistake than have metal in my oil pan
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:14 AM   #13848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
I would take that to the Nissan dealer to get the right bolt size. Other option is as follows:
Go to a hardware store that sells bolts etc, to normal/commercial accounts. Tell them you need a metric and an SAE thread pitch guage tool, and a tool to check thread sized holes. They will smile at you, then either hand you the right stuff, or show it to you and explain how it works. These tools will help you to figure these out on your own and get the right stuff each time without even looking online or in a book
I went to a local hardware store, Marshall's Industrial, and was able to locate a bolt that fits.
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:38 PM   #13849
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I have an s13, and im buying a tie rod set up soon for more angle. What would be a good reliable set up?

s14 tien inners, pbm spacer, moog or oem s14 outters? it's hard to find a really clear answer.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-02-2013, 03:12 PM   #13850
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there is a little square hole on the bottom of my sr20det transmission, is it supposed to be there?
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Old 06-02-2013, 05:14 PM   #13851
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clips

does anyone know of a place where you can find the clips that hold the clutch and brake hard lines against the firewall besides the junkyard... or even a DIY?
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Old 06-02-2013, 05:25 PM   #13852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DialedLife View Post
I have an s13, and im buying a tie rod set up soon for more angle. What would be a good reliable set up?

s14 tien inners, pbm spacer, moog or oem s14 outters? it's hard to find a really clear answer.

Thanks in advance!
SPL outer tie rod ends, Z33 inners (if you have stock knuckles). S14 inners if you have cut/drift knuckles. We sell em all the time, works rad.
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Old 06-02-2013, 06:25 PM   #13853
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Are the egr valves for ka24e and ka24de the same?
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:22 PM   #13854
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Quote:
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there is a little square hole on the bottom of my sr20det transmission, is it supposed to be there?
What do you mean hole? Where about is on the transmission is it(on the bell housing or the body) A pic would help.

Quote:
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Are the egr valves for ka24e and ka24de the same?
IIRC they are the same part number, which leads me to believe they are the same. I can't save I've Used a ka24e on a de and vise versa. But I don't see why not.
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:13 PM   #13855
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What do you mean hole? Where about is on the transmission is it(on the bell housing or the body) A pic would help.



IIRC they are the same part number, which leads me to believe they are the same. I can't save I've Used a ka24e on a de and vise versa. But I don't see why not.
I dont have my car but its a little square hole on the bellhousing. I couldntt find anything that said it was supposed to be there so i jb welded over it
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:20 PM   #13856
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Well first things first since im going by description only does it look like a factory casted whole? Or could it possibly be a chip. And you said you already jb welded it? Before identifying what it actually is?
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:40 PM   #13857
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Looks like I made another mistake, it was a fluid drain hole. Well my car be ok to drive for a short distance until I get all of the jb weld out?
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Old 06-02-2013, 10:46 PM   #13858
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Recently did some work to my sr and upon starting it it idled like complete shit , it was rocking back and forth and pouring black smoke out of the exhaust. i recently did the following to the motor/car what should i do if tomorrow when i put it back together its still off? i did the following

1.moved my fuse boxes/chassis harness to behind my dash board ,did not cut or remove anything just relocated it .
2. installed a chasebays wiring harness
3.removed my heater core and looped my coolant line in the back with all new hoses
4. removed my bov and hot pipe for a solid no bov hot pipe ,ran a vacuum line from the wastegate to the hot pipe,vac line from fpr t'd to boost gauge to the mani , capped the other throttle body fittings,
5.i removed my intake manifold but put on a new collector gasket and a circuit sports thermal gasket spacer. what did i miss or did i run vacuum lines wrong? i checked for boost leaks by spraying carb cleaner and didnt get anything,the motor flodded while running for the few moments i had it running , i replaced my plugs and changed the oil.
the engine ran awesome a few months ago before i changed the previous things , im leaning towards the wiring, any ideas ? i would greatly appreciate some insight and help
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:08 PM   #13859
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Looks like I made another mistake, it was a fluid drain hole. Well my car be ok to drive for a short distance until I get all of the jb weld out?
That's what came to mind when you said square the plug itself correct? Its a half inch square hole where you use a ratchet or a breaker bar to loosen or tighten...

What you can do is use a drill and drill bit with an easy out to remove the old plug, but they can seat quite tightly so its going to be a pain the the @ss.
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:36 PM   #13860
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what are your guy's opionions on HJC helmets for track use??

im looking to get a new track helmet but having hard time pick one and was wondering why HJC is so cheap compaired to others?...
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