2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread - Page 47 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

cody · 01-27-2013, 08:49 PM

Thats what I was thinking. Good.. out it goes

afracer · 01-28-2013, 12:11 AM

My car never had any external heater control valve on it...in fact none of the five S13's I've owned have had a valve there.

I went to the junkyard today and verified that Toyota Camry throttle cables are a go. There's a few different lengths, but generally the 96+ years had the right ones to use. The one I got was from a 99 5 speed Camry, but it's still a little long so I'm going to go back and get a shorter one.

Also, for an automatic S13 conversion, you have to drill a new hole in the shifter since the fulcrum point between the S13 and Aristo are different. The new hole needs to be between 2 1/8" and 2 3/16" up from the stock hole on the bottom of the shifter. To do this you have to flatten the bottom bend on the shifter, drill your hole, then rebend the shifter above your new hole and cut off the excess. I cut off the end of the Aristo shift linkage and welded the 240SX threaded end to it after relocating the shifter hole. If you don't adjust the fulcrum, when your shifter displays Neutral, you'll be in like 1st gear, since the Aristo shifter is obviously shorter than the 240SX. Also, watch the driveshaft to shift linkage clearance, it gets a little tight.

brewster240 · 01-28-2013, 12:57 AM

only 95-96 has the valve in the engine bay.

rswails · 01-28-2013, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by afracer

You're welcome: Gates 19048 for upper heater hose and Gates 18774 for lower heater hose; trim a little bit off of both for a perfect fit and throw away your spliced together 90 degree joke hoses. Both should be in stock at your local O'reillys since they're pretty common/fit a lot of cars, no big deal.

In case anyone else is wondering like me, Gates 19048 hoses are from 97-03 chevy mailbu. And Gates 18774 hoses are from 89-93 Chevy Cavalier.
I wanted to add to afracer's helpful post more info on this to make it easier to buy in any parts store. They are many part cars that use the same hoses, but those 2 will suffice.

Mister.E · 01-28-2013, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brewster240

only 95-96 has the valve in the engine bay.

any reason as to why the 97-98 models didnt have it? Is it necessary to keep in my 95 if i plan to run A/C in the future?

rswails · 01-28-2013, 08:20 AM

Look here.

http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/252792...alve-swap.html

This says ONLY the 1995's have external valve brewster. I have a 1996 and I don't have the external.

afracer · 01-28-2013, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rswails

In case anyone else is wondering like me, Gates 19048 hoses are from 97-03 chevy mailbu. And Gates 18774 hoses are from 89-93 Chevy Cavalier.
I wanted to add to afracer's helpful post more info on this to make it easier to buy in any parts store. They are many part cars that use the same hoses, but those 2 will suffice.

Each hose has many different fitments of different cars, one of them fits something like 130 different cars, I didn't feel like listing them all, sorry.

Xicor01 · 01-28-2013, 03:35 PM

Alright guys, looking into buying my first 2jz within the next few weeks and i have been flip flopping between vvti and non vvti. i will be putting it into a 93 s13 and i was looking into the benefits and disadvantages of vvti, but ultimately i have come to the conclusion that i would ask this forum. For my first 2jz, and actually first swap without help, would you suggest vvti or non vvti. also where would you guys recommend buying from? any trusted sources?

Entranced · 01-28-2013, 06:23 PM

I'm in the same boat as you Xicor. I'm almost ready to make the jump, and i know the advantages of VVTI over non, however it's things like ECU tunability, available base-maps, and wiring that make me hesitant.

from what I've briefly read, it's fairly simple to tune, helps low-end power, and works with most ECU's that have a certain type of output. But what about at power levels around 700whp? Is it worth it to keep vvti at that point? I'm trying to keep spool as fast as possible with the most power under the curve.

Mister.E · 01-28-2013, 07:42 PM

Ok, so the 1J arrived today...and now the questions begin.

If i remove the traction control portion of the throttle body while still running on the stock ECU, will the car freak out?

Xicor01 · 01-28-2013, 08:17 PM

Entrance i know how your feeling, i was thinking of eventually going with Mega Squirt and that allows for the most custom tuning available in my opinion and i just dont know how vvti reacts around 500whp+. i want a mean machine but i dont know about 1200 for a basic upgrade in cams for a vvti specific set up. it seems to me that non would be the economic and easiest route for a first run with the vvti, and maybe if i get to a point where i have extra money i can tweek with vvti stuff?? what have you been thinking??

91ka24 · 01-28-2013, 08:33 PM

E double, u can remove it. there will be 0 issues. I removed mine on the 2j.

Mister.E · 01-28-2013, 09:28 PM

So the ECu wont trip out or anything? I'm thinking of having Wiring Specialties making a harness without those connectors on it, i just dont want to regret it.

Also, for anyone that has the tripod looking shifter extension, have any of you ever removed those 4 mushy ass expensive bushings and just welded in washers to make the extension solid? or is the freeplay from the bushings needed to make sure something doesnt break?

This is just the beginning of all of the stupid shit im going to be asking, LOL. i apologize in advance.

Mr. Phonso · 01-28-2013, 09:56 PM

anyone got a spare gte tps or 1jz flywheel kicking around?

shiftdrift · 01-28-2013, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E Double

So the ECu wont trip out or anything? I'm thinking of having Wiring Specialties making a harness without those connectors on it, i just dont want to regret it.

Also, for anyone that has the tripod looking shifter extension, have any of you ever removed those 4 mushy ass expensive bushings and just welded in washers to make the extension solid? or is the freeplay from the bushings needed to make sure something doesnt break?

This is just the beginning of all of the stupid shit im going to be asking, LOL. i apologize in advance.

they make poly bushings for them, the rubber bushings work fine though, cutting off the TCS and welding on an aluminum tube or just grinding off all the tcs stuff works fine.

Black R · 01-29-2013, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by afracer

You're welcome: Gates 19048 for upper heater hose and Gates 18774 for lower heater hose; trim a little bit off of both for a perfect fit and throw away your spliced together 90 degree joke hoses. Both should be in stock at your local O'reillys since they're pretty common/fit a lot of cars, no big deal.

Is this the correct configuration for in / out from the motor to the heater core and back?

My heat doesn't get that hot until I've been driving for a while.

91ka24 · 01-29-2013, 10:20 AM

Heater core lines really don't matter. There isn't a specific inlet and outlet on the heater core, its just a looped system. I would be lookin into your t-stat. Do you have a aftermarket temp gauge?

afracer · 01-29-2013, 10:35 AM

Yes, it is the correct configuration for "flow" for the 2JZ.

rswails · 01-29-2013, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xicor01

Alright guys, looking into buying my first 2jz within the next few weeks and i have been flip flopping between vvti and non vvti.

Xicor01. Do you know about what max horsepower you want? After doing some research it was easy for me to decide going with VVTi. I want to stick with the stock twins anyway so I won't need to worry about all that tuning and cams and stuff. VVTi has 7,200 rev limit vs. 6,800 on the non VVT. And it has a better low end torque feel, turbo's spool up quicker, newer turbos, newer hoses/ and gaskets etc in the engine, and improved fuel economy. It was a no brainer to me after I researched this stuff. I only want to make about 400hp. If you want a lot more power than that, maybe non VVT is better, maybe it isn't. I think the 2jz swap community in general is a little biased against VVT.

I do believe you can make big power with VVT if you want, but I didn't plan on doing that so I didn't look at the details. Hope this helps.

BoostedVR4 · 01-29-2013, 11:11 AM

I'm finally getting started on my car, my 2JZ arrives Thursday, and I'm heading to Freed Engineering Monday to pick up a tranny, mount kit, manifold, wastegate, etc..

Wanted to thank everyone in this thread, its been an awesome source for all the little details you don't read much about. (such as the heater hoses)

I *almost* went with the CD009 transmission, (I was talking about it a couple pages back) but Freed had a built r154 in his shop, so that settled that.

The idea was to start with stock twins/fuel/ecu, but plans have changed. Going to start with single T4 (unsure which yet) stock fuel, and AEM EMS. I got a great deal on an EMS + DLI from a Supra friend, and I still have all my sensors from the AEM EMS I had with my SR setup. Going to go with a Chasebays harness.

2muchboost · 01-29-2013, 12:35 PM

Not trying to sway you in anyway but from some of the horror stories I have heard I would strongly consider Freed to do the electrical work for you especially if your already getting some stuff from him. Obviously the guy knows a thing or two about these swaps

.

BoostedVR4 · 01-29-2013, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2muchboost

Not trying to sway you in anyway but from some of the horror stories I have heard I would strongly consider Freed to do the electrical work for you especially if your already getting some stuff from him. Obviously the guy knows a thing or two about these swaps

.

Horror stories with Chasebays? I was looking at them or Wiring Specialties. What have I missed?

Freed wanted $600 for wiring, so I though for an extra $100, I could get a built from scratch perfect harness with the options I need for the EMS, then sell the stock harness and ECU.

Flicktitty · 01-29-2013, 12:54 PM

I thought Ben (Freed) Didn't do wiring unless you had them do the build on the car?

Chasebays seems to be VERY hit or miss with JZ swapped S-Chassis cars. Seems they are more Miss then hit. Seem the Wiring specialties stuff is done pretty nice. Just wish they would offer more of a "tucked" harness.

2muchboost · 01-29-2013, 02:53 PM

Again not trying to bash or discredit any company just going off of feedback that members on here and other forums have posted about ChaseBay. As Flick noted, it seems the harness are absolutely mint and trouble free or they are very troublesome on the S-Chassis 2J Swapped cars. I would read some feedback on their harnesses if you get a chance.

I would personally rather have someone do the wiring that I can go discuss what I want done and we can communicate face to face if any issues occur. I am very fortunate that one of the best 2J shops in the NorthEast moved to the town next to me. So now I can harass M&S Performance all day lol.

Again take my suggestion with a grain of salt and read around about their harnesses. And $600 for a headache free wiring job is actually rather cheap. You should see what some of these people charge....Oy Vey!

BlewByYou · 01-29-2013, 03:04 PM

Im using a chasebay harness, Top of the line!! Period. Horror stories? You heard! lolzz

91ka24 · 01-29-2013, 03:09 PM

I can do wiring, feel free to pm me if you have any questions

BoostedVR4 · 01-29-2013, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

I thought Ben (Freed) Didn't do wiring unless you had them do the build on the car?

He told me as long as I was buying the mount kit, he would do it. Maybe its because I'm buying a ton of other stuff also?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2muchboost

Again take my suggestion with a grain of salt and read around about their harnesses. And $600 for a headache free wiring job is actually rather cheap. You should see what some of these people charge....Oy Vey!

Oh no, I have seen some prices, ranging from $400 to $1000. I was fine with $600, but I figured a brand new spiffy aircraft grade harness, w/custom options for an extra $100, not bad. The website makes it sound superb.

I did a lot of the wiring on my SR swap, (especially when I got into the EMS) I have no problems doing that sort of thing. But with this, finding the info on what's needed done isn't easy. So I thought for peace of mind (since I'm starting out with an EMS) I would pay to have it done.

Entranced · 01-29-2013, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rswails

Xicor01. Do you know about what max horsepower you want? After doing some research it was easy for me to decide going with VVTi. I want to stick with the stock twins anyway so I won't need to worry about all that tuning and cams and stuff. VVTi has 7,200 rev limit vs. 6,800 on the non VVT. And it has a better low end torque feel, turbo's spool up quicker, newer turbos, newer hoses/ and gaskets etc in the engine, and improved fuel economy. It was a no brainer to me after I researched this stuff. I only want to make about 400hp. If you want a lot more power than that, maybe non VVT is better, maybe it isn't. I think the 2jz swap community in general is a little biased against VVT.

I do believe you can make big power with VVT if you want, but I didn't plan on doing that so I didn't look at the details. Hope this helps.

Yeah i'll be going for around 700 whp so it's got me second guessing a bit. VVTI engines are easy to come by around here... non VVTI are alot harder to find. I know no one LIKES tuning VVTI, but it's got its benefits for sure.. I know peak power it doesn't help much, but its more for low-end.

besides camshafts, are the heads basically the same design? i.e. a spring and valve kit would be the same for VVTI as with non-vvti?

Xicor01 · 01-29-2013, 07:23 PM

actually that helps the most cause i was only looking for 500whp to start and i want to keep the stock twins to start as i dont have the money for swap to a single, and i think i want to get it working first before i explore into the options so i think your right. the vvti was where i was going originally but i started to second guess myself from the inherent negativity in the community.

Entranced · 01-29-2013, 08:03 PM

the negativity was coming from the power hunters, you dont need VVTI to make BIG power, like 1000hp+ and most delete it, becuase it just makes it more difficult to tune.

now, i'm not experienced with tuning supra's, but when i tuned my celica with VVTL-I, i saw huge gains in the mid-range just by street-tuning my ecu myself.

that being said, i dont know what the aftermarket support for the VVTL motor is when it comes to aftermarket ECU's.

01-28-2013, 12:11 AM	#1382
afracer Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 29 Trader Rating: (0) $afracer is an unknown quantity at this point$ Feedback Score: 0 reviews	My car never had any external heater control valve on it...in fact none of the five S13's I've owned have had a valve there. I went to the junkyard today and verified that Toyota Camry throttle cables are a go. There's a few different lengths, but generally the 96+ years had the right ones to use. The one I got was from a 99 5 speed Camry, but it's still a little long so I'm going to go back and get a shorter one. Also, for an automatic S13 conversion, you have to drill a new hole in the shifter since the fulcrum point between the S13 and Aristo are different. The new hole needs to be between 2 1/8" and 2 3/16" up from the stock hole on the bottom of the shifter. To do this you have to flatten the bottom bend on the shifter, drill your hole, then rebend the shifter above your new hole and cut off the excess. I cut off the end of the Aristo shift linkage and welded the 240SX threaded end to it after relocating the shifter hole. If you don't adjust the fulcrum, when your shifter displays Neutral, you'll be in like 1st gear, since the Aristo shifter is obviously shorter than the 240SX. Also, watch the driveshaft to shift linkage clearance, it gets a little tight.
$afracer is offline$

01-28-2013, 08:33 PM	#1392
91ka24 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Oklahoma city, ok Age: 35 Posts: 414 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	E double, u can remove it. there will be 0 issues. I removed mine on the 2j. __________________ Follow me on Ig- Andydennington

01-29-2013, 10:20 AM	#1397
91ka24 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Oklahoma city, ok Age: 35 Posts: 414 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	Heater core lines really don't matter. There isn't a specific inlet and outlet on the heater core, its just a looped system. I would be lookin into your t-stat. Do you have a aftermarket temp gauge? __________________ Follow me on Ig- Andydennington

01-29-2013, 10:35 AM	#1398
afracer Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 29 Trader Rating: (0) $afracer is an unknown quantity at this point$ Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Yes, it is the correct configuration for "flow" for the 2JZ.
$afracer is offline$

01-29-2013, 12:54 PM	#1403
Flicktitty Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Wisconsin Age: 37 Posts: 3,685 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	I thought Ben (Freed) Didn't do wiring unless you had them do the build on the car? Chasebays seems to be VERY hit or miss with JZ swapped S-Chassis cars. Seems they are more Miss then hit. Seem the Wiring specialties stuff is done pretty nice. Just wish they would offer more of a "tucked" harness. __________________ 2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

01-27-2013, 08:49 PM	#1381
cody Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: WI Posts: 125 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	Thats what I was thinking. Good.. out it goes

01-28-2013, 12:57 AM	#1383
brewster240 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: tampa bay, fl Age: 41 Posts: 1,042 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	only 95-96 has the valve in the engine bay.

01-28-2013, 08:20 AM	#1386
rswails Leaky Injector Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Columbia, SC Age: 44 Posts: 128 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Look here. http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/252792...alve-swap.html This says ONLY the 1995's have external valve brewster. I have a 1996 and I don't have the external.

01-28-2013, 03:35 PM	#1388
Xicor01 Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Terre Haute Age: 32 Posts: 218 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Alright guys, looking into buying my first 2jz within the next few weeks and i have been flip flopping between vvti and non vvti. i will be putting it into a 93 s13 and i was looking into the benefits and disadvantages of vvti, but ultimately i have come to the conclusion that i would ask this forum. For my first 2jz, and actually first swap without help, would you suggest vvti or non vvti. also where would you guys recommend buying from? any trusted sources?

01-28-2013, 06:23 PM	#1389
Entranced Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 56 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	I'm in the same boat as you Xicor. I'm almost ready to make the jump, and i know the advantages of VVTI over non, however it's things like ECU tunability, available base-maps, and wiring that make me hesitant. from what I've briefly read, it's fairly simple to tune, helps low-end power, and works with most ECU's that have a certain type of output. But what about at power levels around 700whp? Is it worth it to keep vvti at that point? I'm trying to keep spool as fast as possible with the most power under the curve.

01-28-2013, 07:42 PM	#1390
Mister.E Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Las Vegas Age: 39 Posts: 4,590 Trader Rating: (53) Feedback Score: 53 reviews	Ok, so the 1J arrived today...and now the questions begin. If i remove the traction control portion of the throttle body while still running on the stock ECU, will the car freak out?

01-28-2013, 08:17 PM	#1391
Xicor01 Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Terre Haute Age: 32 Posts: 218 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Entrance i know how your feeling, i was thinking of eventually going with Mega Squirt and that allows for the most custom tuning available in my opinion and i just dont know how vvti reacts around 500whp+. i want a mean machine but i dont know about 1200 for a basic upgrade in cams for a vvti specific set up. it seems to me that non would be the economic and easiest route for a first run with the vvti, and maybe if i get to a point where i have extra money i can tweek with vvti stuff?? what have you been thinking??

01-28-2013, 09:28 PM	#1393
Mister.E Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Las Vegas Age: 39 Posts: 4,590 Trader Rating: (53) Feedback Score: 53 reviews	So the ECu wont trip out or anything? I'm thinking of having Wiring Specialties making a harness without those connectors on it, i just dont want to regret it. Also, for anyone that has the tripod looking shifter extension, have any of you ever removed those 4 mushy ass expensive bushings and just welded in washers to make the extension solid? or is the freeplay from the bushings needed to make sure something doesnt break? This is just the beginning of all of the stupid shit im going to be asking, LOL. i apologize in advance.

01-28-2013, 09:56 PM	#1394
Mr. Phonso Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: toronto Posts: 315 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	anyone got a spare gte tps or 1jz flywheel kicking around?

01-29-2013, 11:11 AM	#1400
BoostedVR4 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Hagerstown, MD Age: 43 Posts: 40 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I'm finally getting started on my car, my 2JZ arrives Thursday, and I'm heading to Freed Engineering Monday to pick up a tranny, mount kit, manifold, wastegate, etc.. Wanted to thank everyone in this thread, its been an awesome source for all the little details you don't read much about. (such as the heater hoses) I almost went with the CD009 transmission, (I was talking about it a couple pages back) but Freed had a built r154 in his shop, so that settled that. The idea was to start with stock twins/fuel/ecu, but plans have changed. Going to start with single T4 (unsure which yet) stock fuel, and AEM EMS. I got a great deal on an EMS + DLI from a Supra friend, and I still have all my sensors from the AEM EMS I had with my SR setup. Going to go with a Chasebays harness.

01-29-2013, 12:35 PM	#1401
2muchboost Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Austin, TX Age: 40 Posts: 2,183 Trader Rating: (33) Feedback Score: 33 reviews	Not trying to sway you in anyway but from some of the horror stories I have heard I would strongly consider Freed to do the electrical work for you especially if your already getting some stuff from him. Obviously the guy knows a thing or two about these swaps .

01-29-2013, 02:53 PM	#1404
2muchboost Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Austin, TX Age: 40 Posts: 2,183 Trader Rating: (33) Feedback Score: 33 reviews	Again not trying to bash or discredit any company just going off of feedback that members on here and other forums have posted about ChaseBay. As Flick noted, it seems the harness are absolutely mint and trouble free or they are very troublesome on the S-Chassis 2J Swapped cars. I would read some feedback on their harnesses if you get a chance. I would personally rather have someone do the wiring that I can go discuss what I want done and we can communicate face to face if any issues occur. I am very fortunate that one of the best 2J shops in the NorthEast moved to the town next to me. So now I can harass M&S Performance all day lol. Again take my suggestion with a grain of salt and read around about their harnesses. And $600 for a headache free wiring job is actually rather cheap. You should see what some of these people charge....Oy Vey!

01-29-2013, 03:04 PM	#1405
BlewByYou Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: 37 58 N 23 43 E Age: 36 Posts: 1,518 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	Im using a chasebay harness, Top of the line!! Period. Horror stories? You heard! lolzz

01-29-2013, 03:09 PM	#1406
91ka24 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Oklahoma city, ok Age: 35 Posts: 414 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	I can do wiring, feel free to pm me if you have any questions __________________ Follow me on Ig- Andydennington

01-29-2013, 07:23 PM	#1409
Xicor01 Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Terre Haute Age: 32 Posts: 218 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	actually that helps the most cause i was only looking for 500whp to start and i want to keep the stock twins to start as i dont have the money for swap to a single, and i think i want to get it working first before i explore into the options so i think your right. the vvti was where i was going originally but i started to second guess myself from the inherent negativity in the community.

01-29-2013, 08:03 PM	#1410
Entranced Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 56 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	the negativity was coming from the power hunters, you dont need VVTI to make BIG power, like 1000hp+ and most delete it, becuase it just makes it more difficult to tune. now, i'm not experienced with tuning supra's, but when i tuned my celica with VVTL-I, i saw huge gains in the mid-range just by street-tuning my ecu myself. that being said, i dont know what the aftermarket support for the VVTL motor is when it comes to aftermarket ECU's.