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Old 07-06-2013, 09:13 AM   #14191
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Car is clean as in the only thing wrong with it is paint, flawless interior, flawless bone stock engine, perfectly straight body, no rust anywhere...

Project as in stripped out race car. lol

Probably just going to sell it to my dad and buy a shell
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:05 AM   #14192
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@ codyace- Well, i changed the o2 sensor and that seemed to solve my problem. Thx for the help/concerns zilvia my baby is starting brand new again!
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:11 PM   #14193
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New wheels but have a slight problem

hey guys I just bought some wheels for my car and my stock lug nuts wont fit, theyre 5zigen fighter wheels. my question is do I need to get some tuner extended lug nuts? and also do I need to get extended wheel studs. first time buying aftermarket wheels. any words of advice much appreciated. thanks! pm me if you can.
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Old 07-06-2013, 05:21 PM   #14194
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Does camber affect safety when using wheel spacers?
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:59 PM   #14195
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Originally Posted by DJ 21o3 View Post
Car is clean as in the only thing wrong with it is paint, flawless interior, flawless bone stock engine, perfectly straight body, no rust anywhere...

Project as in stripped out race car. lol

Probably just going to sell it to my dad and buy a shell
IT all depends on how 'race car' you're going. If it's going to be a real deal full on setup, then I'd not be concerned with a good interior nor a good plain stock engine as that's all going to get replaced anyway. Slight rust wouldn't bother me too bad either as it's going to be track only, and you can fix it.

Cliffs: Sell the good shell/make money...get a slightly beat car and make that the racer.

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@ codyace- Well, i changed the o2 sensor and that seemed to solve my problem. Thx for the help/concerns zilvia my baby is starting brand new again!
Sounds good man! Sometimes it's some simple crazy shit that causes the biggest grief!



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Originally Posted by jptalaga View Post
hey guys I just bought some wheels for my car and my stock lug nuts wont fit, theyre 5zigen fighter wheels. my question is do I need to get some tuner extended lug nuts? and also do I need to get extended wheel studs. first time buying aftermarket wheels. any words of advice much appreciated. thanks! pm me if you can.

Check out the offerings that the Zilvia sponsers like 240sxMotoring, Enjuku, or FRsport have for sale and available. It sounds like you'll need a thin lugnut or even a spline drive/inverse type lugnut. There are plenty of options out there for sure, check to see what they have and rock n roll

You shouldnt' need aftermarket studs at all so long as you're not running any spacers.


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Does camber affect safety when using wheel spacers?
Not if you have quality aftermarket studs and a good lugnut. I've run 3* on a 15mm spacer for many track days without issue.
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Old 07-06-2013, 08:33 PM   #14196
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That's a body panel latch, aftermarket, to hold a body panel on that can be taken off quickly for drifting and stuff. stuff for race cars...

Body Latches - Protex CatchBolt (Flat)
Ok cool, thanks
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:17 PM   #14197
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hey guys I just bought some wheels for my car and my stock lug nuts wont fit, theyre 5zigen fighter wheels. my question is do I need to get some tuner extended lug nuts? and also do I need to get extended wheel studs. first time buying aftermarket wheels. any words of advice much appreciated. thanks! pm me if you can.
If you're in a pinch most parts stores carry low profile nuts like Gorilla. There is a store front mark-up so, if you can wait see what the the vendors have on sale like suggested above.
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Old 07-06-2013, 11:31 PM   #14198
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Not if you have quality aftermarket studs and a good lugnut. I've run 3* on a 15mm spacer for many track days without issue.
Thanks for the response.

Sorry I meant adaptor not spacer, previous owner gave me two adaptors that basically work as spacers and add what looks to be about an inch or an inch and a half to the car in the rear. I don't have them on at the moment since I don't know how safe they really are but the wheels would look better if I put them on.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:20 AM   #14199
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Is 13.4 afr @wot (7psi) too lean on a ka-t w/ Enthalpy tune? Asking because afr went from 11.4 to 13.4 when switching from AEM cone filter to HKS mushroom filter. Thanks!
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:18 AM   #14200
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ive decided on going with a s13 redtop sr motor.. my only issue is that it comes with a five speed.. i just want to know if there is a 6 speed that mates perfectly with it, or will i have to do a lot of fabing to get one to fit?
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:24 AM   #14201
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^ Look into what it takes to get a Z33 350Z 6spd transmission on an SR20DET.
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:53 AM   #14202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unnaturalsniper View Post
ive decided on going with a s13 redtop sr motor.. my only issue is that it comes with a five speed.. i just want to know if there is a 6 speed that mates perfectly with it, or will i have to do a lot of fabing to get one to fit?
Is there any reason you need a 6 speed?
S15 is available in 6 speed.
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:48 AM   #14203
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What would cause excessive brake pad wear? I changed my pads about two weeks ago and now they're scratching my rotors. Gonna have to replace pads and rotors now. Just my luck, it's what I get for trying to learn how to do things on my own.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:16 PM   #14204
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What would cause excessive brake pad wear? I changed my pads about two weeks ago and now they're scratching my rotors. Gonna have to replace pads and rotors now. Just my luck, it's what I get for trying to learn how to do things on my own.
Did you change the rotors? Check them for true and run out?

Are they wearing evenly? Inner and outer pad wearing at same rate. Wearing square.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:32 PM   #14205
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Did you change the rotors? Check them for true and run out?

Are they wearing evenly? Inner and outer pad wearing at same rate. Wearing square.
Last time I didn't replace the rotors because my friend said they looked fine, I ordered some pins/brackets that hold the brake pads in place cause it was a little hard to put the pads in last time. I hope this time around it goes more smoothly thanks for the quick response.
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:29 PM   #14206
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what can cause a caliper to press one pad in more excessively than the other?

replaced calipers with rebuilt ones bled it. still the same.

Rear and the inner pad towards chassis.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:59 PM   #14207
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what can cause a caliper to press one pad in more excessively than the other?

replaced calipers with rebuilt ones bled it. still the same.

Rear and the inner pad towards chassis.
Pull the caliper off and clean/lubricate the slide pins that the caliper bolts into. If the slides are frozen up, the caliper wont squeeze the rotor evenly.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:02 PM   #14208
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thanks for the replies guys! i thought i might've needed some extended studs since mine seem short when i test fitted the wheel haha. i work at auto zone and we sell those spline tuner lug nuts. ill probably end up getting those since i have a store discount. =]
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:12 PM   #14209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShimiBoi View Post
Is 13.4 afr @wot (7psi) too lean on a ka-t w/ Enthalpy tune? Asking because afr went from 11.4 to 13.4 when switching from AEM cone filter to HKS mushroom filter. Thanks!
Check to seee if you didn't move the MAF or soemthign funny. An air filter change shouldn't have done that.

13.4 is *way* too lean at WOT and past 4k RPM

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Originally Posted by unnaturalsniper View Post
ive decided on going with a s13 redtop sr motor.. my only issue is that it comes with a five speed.. i just want to know if there is a 6 speed that mates perfectly with it, or will i have to do a lot of fabing to get one to fit?
What's the reasoning for going with a 6 speed?

Z33 is the only option worth the cost and time.

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Originally Posted by S14 Ender View Post
What would cause excessive brake pad wear? I changed my pads about two weeks ago and now they're scratching my rotors. Gonna have to replace pads and rotors now. Just my luck, it's what I get for trying to learn how to do things on my own.
Seizing calipers and or compromised brake lines. I'd change them both.

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what can cause a caliper to press one pad in more excessively than the other?

replaced calipers with rebuilt ones bled it. still the same.

Rear and the inner pad towards chassis.
Is it a OEM caliper or aftermarket? Stock floating calipers on cars that get beat on are *never* fair on pads and usually tear them up with odd pad wear. I've seen some cars (miata namely) that have both rotational and longitudal pad wear...it's a mess.

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thanks for the replies guys! i thought i might've needed some extended studs since mine seem short when i test fitted the wheel haha. i work at auto zone and we sell those spline tuner lug nuts. ill probably end up getting those since i have a store discount. =]

Sounds good man!
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:25 AM   #14210
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Is there any reason you need a 6 speed?
S15 is available in 6 speed.
yes, i would to have a good take off, but still be able to cruise the freeway getting decent mpg.. right now my ka-e is doing 31/2k at like 70.. i want somewhere around 1800 to 2300 rmp at 70-75..
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:57 AM   #14211
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Is it a OEM caliper or aftermarket? Stock floating calipers on cars that get beat on are *never* fair on pads and usually tear them up with odd pad wear. I've seen some cars (miata namely) that have both rotational and longitudal pad wear...it's a mess!
OEM did that, so we changed it out to a company that supposedly rebuilds stock ones, But this is on a friends S14 so I didnt get a chance to check. Okay so sounds about right cause my friend beats on his pads alot, he does alot of spirited driving. So what can we do to fix it? Bigger calipers? BMC?

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yes, i would to have a good take off, but still be able to cruise the freeway getting decent mpg.. right now my ka-e is doing 31/2k at like 70.. i want somewhere around 1800 to 2300 rmp at 70-75..
isnt it easier to change out the gearing in the diff?
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:45 AM   #14212
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Way easier to just throw a different final drive in the rear end. And you just assume that the S15 trans will give you what you are wanting? You should probably do some more research on them.
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:07 AM   #14213
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Way easier to just throw a different final drive in the rear end. And you just assume that the S15 trans will give you what you are wanting? You should probably do some more research on them.
im not ASSUMING the s15 will give me anything.. somebody suggested it because it was a 6 speed. i just stated what want i wanted.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:35 AM   #14214
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s15 6 speed tend to break btw. run a z33?
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:26 PM   #14215
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WHATS REQUIRED TO DRIFT AT WILLOW SPRINGS CA

Is it a one time members Fee or is there a fee every time you go?

Is it only on Drift events ONLY? Or can drift Any day ?
Any one that has drifted there please let me know..thank you
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Old 07-08-2013, 02:07 PM   #14216
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How much these worth? I mean everything in the picture.
Used for a very short period of time and it was in perfect working condition when it was removed..



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Old 07-08-2013, 03:00 PM   #14217
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Fuel pump randomly lost power???

Drove my car, parked it for an hour, and when I tried to start it it died after a min.
-checked fuel pump fuse, it was good.
-could not check relays because my multimeter ran out of battery (forgot to turn it off last time I used it :/ )
-Hardwired fuel pump to check if it was the problem, it turned on with battery power.
-doesn't prime at all when key is at IGN

Weird part:
-swapped out a working 10A horn fuse with the 10A fuel pump fuse and the car started and the horn worked (this was after an hour of messing with shit but everything was put back as it was). The car only idled for 2 min though and then shut off again.

My car was running fine, I had just put about 100 miles on my built motor with no issues, so why would it just suddenly not work?

I am taking the fusebox apart tonight to look for shorts, but that fuse swap-magical-engine start really is messing with my head. Also gonna check the EGI and EGI pump relays, maybe they are 'going' bad, but not totally fried yet?

EDIT: Re-grounded or cleaned all the grounds by the fuse box and I got everything to work again. Not sure why it got bad in the first place, maybe just some rough roads or something.
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:11 PM   #14218
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yes, i would to have a good take off, but still be able to cruise the freeway getting decent mpg.. right now my ka-e is doing 31/2k at like 70.. i want somewhere around 1800 to 2300 rmp at 70-75..
For the cost of the parts and the amount of work involved to mate a S15 or Z33 6 speed probably won't equate to the amount of money you save on gas. IMO I would just stay with the stock 5 speed (I don't find the mpg on it so bad) or use a Z32 trans if you do some heavy driving and want a trans that can take abuse. If you are also intent on having a better take-off, do what others have suggested and change the final drive and maybe a LSD.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:37 PM   #14219
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Will a 95 s14 (obd1) auto tranny bolt into an 91 s13 and wire up with no problem? I kno the obd11 s14s use a CPS but I'm not sure about the obd1s
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:49 PM   #14220
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yes, i would to have a good take off, but still be able to cruise the freeway getting decent mpg.. right now my ka-e is doing 31/2k at like 70.. i want somewhere around 1800 to 2300 rmp at 70-75..
6 speed does not always automatically mean double overdrive like many assume. T56 are (just off top of my head) but I know the S15 and the Z33 6 speed transmissions both utilize 5th gear as the 1:1 gear.

S15 6's gear is a .767
SR/KA 5th gear is a .759

So with that said, the 5 speed has a lower overdrive and should give better fuel mileage.

With that all considered, you can easily put in a longer gear set in the final drive to reduce the RPM per speed, but at the same time if the car isn't making sufficient power/torque at the RPM you want it can actually hurt fuel mileage as the car will be lugging/loaded to keep going.

30mpg is pretty darn good on a KA-E there isn't much better than that. Good running SR's see 30-32 highway.



Quote:
Originally Posted by hOngsterr View Post
OEM did that, so we changed it out to a company that supposedly rebuilds stock ones, But this is on a friends S14 so I didnt get a chance to check. Okay so sounds about right cause my friend beats on his pads alot, he does alot of spirited driving. So what can we do to fix it? Bigger calipers? BMC?
Well if you're burning through pads that quickly, I'd be looking to make sure the slides are free/lubed. If they are, check to make sure the pad fits in the slider parts easily...as in no bind. Once you pass both those tests I start blaming a seized caliper (or even a poor rebuilt caliper ) and the lines. Beyond that the MC.

You can also have the little rod between the booster and the master slightly dragging, but it's unlikely if it worked for a while. Just a quarter turn off may reduce the drag.

Aside from that the only way to reduce pad taper is to run a 4 piston caliper (or a caliper with no slider pins), and then find the right compound to fit driving. Even on my car with the Carbotech XP12s, I get a slight bit of taper on the leading edge, but that is to be expected as I'm jumping on the brakes at 120. Now the Bobcat street compound I run has no taper, but I'm also quite nice to them (aside from the spirited back road beatings)


Quote:
Originally Posted by bc. View Post
Fuel pump randomly lost power???

I am taking the fusebox apart tonight to look for shorts, but that fuse swap-magical-engine start really is messing with my head. Also gonna check the EGI and EGI pump relays, maybe they are 'going' bad, but not totally fried yet?

EDIT: Re-grounded or cleaned all the grounds by the fuse box and I got everything to work again. Not sure why it got bad in the first place, maybe just some rough roads or something.
The grounds are a place to check for sure, but that stinking EGI relay really causes a ton of headache, especially on cars where it burns out in the ECU, and the previous owner jumps the relay near it for power.
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