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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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07-06-2013, 09:13 AM | #14191 |
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Car is clean as in the only thing wrong with it is paint, flawless interior, flawless bone stock engine, perfectly straight body, no rust anywhere...
Project as in stripped out race car. lol Probably just going to sell it to my dad and buy a shell |
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07-06-2013, 11:05 AM | #14192 |
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@ codyace- Well, i changed the o2 sensor and that seemed to solve my problem. Thx for the help/concerns zilvia my baby is starting brand new again!
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07-06-2013, 02:11 PM | #14193 |
Leaky Injector
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New wheels but have a slight problem
hey guys I just bought some wheels for my car and my stock lug nuts wont fit, theyre 5zigen fighter wheels. my question is do I need to get some tuner extended lug nuts? and also do I need to get extended wheel studs. first time buying aftermarket wheels. any words of advice much appreciated. thanks! pm me if you can.
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07-06-2013, 06:59 PM | #14195 | |||
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Quote:
Cliffs: Sell the good shell/make money...get a slightly beat car and make that the racer. Quote:
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Check out the offerings that the Zilvia sponsers like 240sxMotoring, Enjuku, or FRsport have for sale and available. It sounds like you'll need a thin lugnut or even a spline drive/inverse type lugnut. There are plenty of options out there for sure, check to see what they have and rock n roll You shouldnt' need aftermarket studs at all so long as you're not running any spacers. Not if you have quality aftermarket studs and a good lugnut. I've run 3* on a 15mm spacer for many track days without issue.
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07-06-2013, 08:33 PM | #14196 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
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07-06-2013, 10:17 PM | #14197 | |
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Quote:
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07-06-2013, 11:31 PM | #14198 | |
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Quote:
Sorry I meant adaptor not spacer, previous owner gave me two adaptors that basically work as spacers and add what looks to be about an inch or an inch and a half to the car in the rear. I don't have them on at the moment since I don't know how safe they really are but the wheels would look better if I put them on. |
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07-07-2013, 02:20 AM | #14199 |
Zilvia Member
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Is 13.4 afr @wot (7psi) too lean on a ka-t w/ Enthalpy tune? Asking because afr went from 11.4 to 13.4 when switching from AEM cone filter to HKS mushroom filter. Thanks!
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07-07-2013, 10:18 AM | #14200 |
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ive decided on going with a s13 redtop sr motor.. my only issue is that it comes with a five speed.. i just want to know if there is a 6 speed that mates perfectly with it, or will i have to do a lot of fabing to get one to fit?
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07-07-2013, 10:53 AM | #14202 | |
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Quote:
S15 is available in 6 speed.
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07-07-2013, 11:48 AM | #14203 |
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What would cause excessive brake pad wear? I changed my pads about two weeks ago and now they're scratching my rotors. Gonna have to replace pads and rotors now. Just my luck, it's what I get for trying to learn how to do things on my own.
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07-07-2013, 02:16 PM | #14204 | |
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Are they wearing evenly? Inner and outer pad wearing at same rate. Wearing square.
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07-07-2013, 02:32 PM | #14205 |
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Last time I didn't replace the rotors because my friend said they looked fine, I ordered some pins/brackets that hold the brake pads in place cause it was a little hard to put the pads in last time. I hope this time around it goes more smoothly thanks for the quick response.
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07-07-2013, 05:29 PM | #14206 |
Bandwagon.
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what can cause a caliper to press one pad in more excessively than the other?
replaced calipers with rebuilt ones bled it. still the same. Rear and the inner pad towards chassis. |
07-07-2013, 05:59 PM | #14207 |
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Pull the caliper off and clean/lubricate the slide pins that the caliper bolts into. If the slides are frozen up, the caliper wont squeeze the rotor evenly.
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07-07-2013, 08:02 PM | #14208 |
Leaky Injector
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thanks for the replies guys! i thought i might've needed some extended studs since mine seem short when i test fitted the wheel haha. i work at auto zone and we sell those spline tuner lug nuts. ill probably end up getting those since i have a store discount. =]
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07-07-2013, 10:12 PM | #14209 | |||||
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13.4 is *way* too lean at WOT and past 4k RPM Quote:
Z33 is the only option worth the cost and time. Quote:
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Sounds good man!
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07-08-2013, 12:57 AM | #14211 | |
Bandwagon.
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Quote:
isnt it easier to change out the gearing in the diff? |
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07-08-2013, 01:45 AM | #14212 |
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Way easier to just throw a different final drive in the rear end. And you just assume that the S15 trans will give you what you are wanting? You should probably do some more research on them.
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07-08-2013, 09:35 AM | #14214 |
Bandwagon.
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s15 6 speed tend to break btw. run a z33?
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07-08-2013, 01:26 PM | #14215 |
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WHATS REQUIRED TO DRIFT AT WILLOW SPRINGS CA
Is it a one time members Fee or is there a fee every time you go? Is it only on Drift events ONLY? Or can drift Any day ? Any one that has drifted there please let me know..thank you
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07-08-2013, 02:07 PM | #14216 |
Zilvia Addict
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How much these worth? I mean everything in the picture.
Used for a very short period of time and it was in perfect working condition when it was removed..
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07-08-2013, 03:00 PM | #14217 |
Zilvia Addict
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Fuel pump randomly lost power???
Drove my car, parked it for an hour, and when I tried to start it it died after a min. -checked fuel pump fuse, it was good. -could not check relays because my multimeter ran out of battery (forgot to turn it off last time I used it :/ ) -Hardwired fuel pump to check if it was the problem, it turned on with battery power. -doesn't prime at all when key is at IGN Weird part: -swapped out a working 10A horn fuse with the 10A fuel pump fuse and the car started and the horn worked (this was after an hour of messing with shit but everything was put back as it was). The car only idled for 2 min though and then shut off again. My car was running fine, I had just put about 100 miles on my built motor with no issues, so why would it just suddenly not work? I am taking the fusebox apart tonight to look for shorts, but that fuse swap-magical-engine start really is messing with my head. Also gonna check the EGI and EGI pump relays, maybe they are 'going' bad, but not totally fried yet? EDIT: Re-grounded or cleaned all the grounds by the fuse box and I got everything to work again. Not sure why it got bad in the first place, maybe just some rough roads or something.
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* S14SR22 * 9.0 c/r * GT3071R * Last edited by bc.; 07-08-2013 at 07:51 PM.. Reason: Fixed my own problem. |
07-08-2013, 03:11 PM | #14218 |
For the cost of the parts and the amount of work involved to mate a S15 or Z33 6 speed probably won't equate to the amount of money you save on gas. IMO I would just stay with the stock 5 speed (I don't find the mpg on it so bad) or use a Z32 trans if you do some heavy driving and want a trans that can take abuse. If you are also intent on having a better take-off, do what others have suggested and change the final drive and maybe a LSD.
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07-08-2013, 09:49 PM | #14220 | |||
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Quote:
S15 6's gear is a .767 SR/KA 5th gear is a .759 So with that said, the 5 speed has a lower overdrive and should give better fuel mileage. With that all considered, you can easily put in a longer gear set in the final drive to reduce the RPM per speed, but at the same time if the car isn't making sufficient power/torque at the RPM you want it can actually hurt fuel mileage as the car will be lugging/loaded to keep going. 30mpg is pretty darn good on a KA-E there isn't much better than that. Good running SR's see 30-32 highway. Quote:
You can also have the little rod between the booster and the master slightly dragging, but it's unlikely if it worked for a while. Just a quarter turn off may reduce the drag. Aside from that the only way to reduce pad taper is to run a 4 piston caliper (or a caliper with no slider pins), and then find the right compound to fit driving. Even on my car with the Carbotech XP12s, I get a slight bit of taper on the leading edge, but that is to be expected as I'm jumping on the brakes at 120. Now the Bobcat street compound I run has no taper, but I'm also quite nice to them (aside from the spirited back road beatings) Quote:
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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