** drag zilvians chime in**

[BlackZenkiS14]

Gonna give these a try this week. Just hoping my trans/clutch survives enough to drive home haha

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Gonna give these a try this week. Just hoping my trans/clutch survives enough to drive home haha

Are those the TT rims? What's the specs on the tires?

[JSimpson]

What ever happened to the rear drag damper setup Santos was thinking about making? I need some drag dampers bad. Megan streets cut it but the rod length/travel is only ample to a point. Thanks

[jr_ss]

No point in designing something really. A set of KWs or any higher end coil over on the rear will give you the ability to adjust compression and rebound for drag passes. I'm sure you could throw something together, but for the price of what his "kit" was going to cost, you could have a set of very capable coils/springs/struts.

[Sky80]

Has anyone tried the Ksport type DR coilovers? They claim a better 60' and ET

[JSimpson]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

No point in designing something really. A set of KWs or any higher end coil over on the rear will give you the ability to adjust compression and rebound for drag passes. I'm sure you could throw something together, but for the price of what his "kit" was going to cost, you could have a set of very capable coils/springs/struts.

The problem with KWs and konis and the like are that the ones guys modify onto S chassis are cheapo twin-tube oil shocks with god knows what valving. 99% of S chassis guys don't know whether to shit or go blind when it comes to shocks so anything feels good to them if their fillings aren't falling out over bumps. The adjustment via clickers on shocks is very very narrow on the double adjustables, its not like you can just click it to where you need it... the valving needs to be within the adjustment window which will vary immensely from car to car. Most guys have no idea what a 3 inch vs 1 inch per second number is, nor that there is even a difference in high speed or low speed damping, let alone that changing springs +/- 25lbs is the correct way to tune a car, not cranking on the holy adjuster knob. What we drag guys NEED is a gas shock with longer travel than the standard S chassis shocks and obviously compression and rebound adjustability (HKS and those AFCO's some guy had on here a while back. The stock valving numbers from the HKS drags would be a good neutral starting point.

Originally Posted by Sky80

Has anyone tried the Ksport type DR coilovers? They claim a better 60' and ET

5.3k rear springs on them, yikes. Avoid those. Thats a 300lb spring, typical drift coilovers use 6ks which are 325ish. OEM nissan springs are 115ish lbs. You do the math. HKS went with 168lb springs in the back. I'd say 175lb springs are a good starting point.

[Tom N]

Not sure what K Sport was thinking with those spring rates on their so called drag coil over.

[Sforteen]

It would be nice if there was a coilover out there that was setup for it and priced reasonable.

[Flicktitty]

i believe i heard something from Fortune Auto that was offering a "drag" coilover

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by Sforteen

It would be nice if there was a coilover out there that was setup for it and priced reasonable.

On supraforums MVP worked with Ksport to build a replica of the HKS drag coilovers and people have been using them with great success for years over there.

Originally Posted by Tom N

Not sure what K Sport was thinking with those spring rates on their so called drag coil over.

Like mentioned above though, if we could work with MVP or Ksport and get some custom valved/spring rates I think that would be our best bet for a solution for all of us.

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

i believe i heard something from Fortune Auto that was offering a "drag" coilover

Yeah this was posted on supraforums also, I believe it was THMotorsports response to MVP working with Ksport, reception really hasn't been great though in that community.

[JSimpson]

Step 1: Find a set of good condition HKS dampers to get to one of these damper manufacturers. Who has a known good set other than Mazworx these days?

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by JSimpson

Step 1: Find a set of good condition HKS dampers to get to one of these damper manufacturers. Who has a known good set other than Mazworx these days?

Well since that sounds nearly impossible, what if we got them a set of Koni or AFCO shocks to model off of. Then we already know what the spring rates were for the HKS and go from there? Thoughts?

[JSimpson]

Originally Posted by Sky80

Well since that sounds nearly impossible, what if we got them a set of Koni or AFCO shocks to model off of. Then we already know what the spring rates were for the HKS and go from there? Thoughts?

Copying valving from generic shocks is not a good idea.

Someone has a dyno sheet. I will contact HKS and see if they have anything.
EDIT** Contacted HKS and they will not give out valving numbers. Keep an eye out for a used set

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by JSimpson

The problem with KWs and konis and the like are that the ones guys modify onto S chassis are cheapo twin-tube oil shocks with god knows what valving. 99% of S chassis guys don't know whether to shit or go blind when it comes to shocks so anything feels good to them if their fillings aren't falling out over bumps. The adjustment via clickers on shocks is very very narrow on the double adjustables, its not like you can just click it to where you need it... the valving needs to be within the adjustment window which will vary immensely from car to car. Most guys have no idea what a 3 inch vs 1 inch per second number is, nor that there is even a difference in high speed or low speed damping, let alone that changing springs +/- 25lbs is the correct way to tune a car, not cranking on the holy adjuster knob. What we drag guys NEED is a gas shock with longer travel than the standard S chassis shocks and obviously compression and rebound adjustability (HKS and those AFCO's some guy had on here a while back. The stock valving numbers from the HKS drags would be a good neutral starting point.

Im not sure where you're getting your information, but KWs for the S-chassis have separate comp/rebound adjustments. They'll do whatever you need to do, just some dialing in is all. They also have 4k springs in the rear, which is on the lower side of the spectrum when it comes to coils for our cars. You can very easily swap springs to a lower rate and dial them in to where you need them for strip.

[JSimpson]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Im not sure where you're getting your information, but KWs for the S-chassis have separate comp/rebound adjustments. They'll do whatever you need to do, just some dialing in is all. They also have 5k springs in the rear, which is on the lower side of the spectrum when it comes to coils for our cars. You can very easily swap springs to a lower rate and dial them in to where you need them for strip.

I don't think you have much experience with shock valving and rebound/compression numbers, but no you cannot "dial them in" with the clickers unless the actual shims in the shocks are in the ballpark. For example, you cannot take a damper from a supra and expect it to work on an S14 from just cranking on the clickers. The window of adjustment is tiny and you will end up maxed out in one direction and still be way off. If you learn how to read dyno graphs for shocks it will make more sense. When you dyno a shock it isn't just a linear rate, the compression and rebound changes drastically depending on how fast the stroke is. So not to be rude but do some research on shocks and RE shock dynos (common) and you will find it interesting.

Obviously you know the correct valving depends greatly on the spring rate used. The more spring the more damping needed... You cannot expect a shock that works well with a 5k (335b/in) spring to work worth a damn with a 175 lb spring.

The 5ks you mention are still VERY stiff for the rear for our application. Thats 275lbs. Think about it, if a stock spring works well (112lbs) and a tein lowering spring works well (179lbs) and HKS drag stuff is our best guess (168lbs), AND we know a typical 6k spring (335lbs) is horrible, then a 5k (275lbs) spring is going to be way the hell too stiff still for drag grip.

[Sforteen]

Originally Posted by JSimpson

Nice! And video or slips or details?

No Video of the 10.92 pass

I need to get back out there, this car made 800whp i know there is a ton more in it.. but was having a few issues with the car at the track. it trapped 2 mph higher last time out on 11lbs less boost..

[Tom N]

That car should be way faster than that with 800hp.

[Sforteen]

Originally Posted by Tom N

That car should be way faster than that with 800hp.

Yes im aware of that.. the car trapped 136mph before with 630ish and a 2.3 60...

Here is what was going on.

5500 DA

210 degree intake air temps.. It was pulling almost 6 degrees of timing because of the temp.

I was also having severe RPM fluctuations in my datalogs, the car needs a dedicated crank trigger instead of the lame ass CAS sensor the RB's use. i could feel the car act up during the runs..

Excuses i know, but i tuned it on the dyno myself and it made 797whp on 35ish psi on a Dynojet, STD correction.

In the process of moving now so wont have much time to get it sorted.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by JSimpson

I don't think you have much experience with shock valving and rebound/compression numbers, but no you cannot "dial them in" with the clickers unless the actual shims in the shocks are in the ballpark. For example, you cannot take a damper from a supra and expect it to work on an S14 from just cranking on the clickers. The window of adjustment is tiny and you will end up maxed out in one direction and still be way off. If you learn how to read dyno graphs for shocks it will make more sense. When you dyno a shock it isn't just a linear rate, the compression and rebound changes drastically depending on how fast the stroke is. So not to be rude but do some research on shocks and RE shock dynos (common) and you will find it interesting.

Obviously you know the correct valving depends greatly on the spring rate used. The more spring the more damping needed... You cannot expect a shock that works well with a 5k (335b/in) spring to work worth a damn with a 175 lb spring.

The 5ks you mention are still VERY stiff for the rear for our application. Thats 275lbs. Think about it, if a stock spring works well (112lbs) and a tein lowering spring works well (179lbs) and HKS drag stuff is our best guess (168lbs), AND we know a typical 6k spring (335lbs) is horrible, then a 5k (275lbs) spring is going to be way the hell too stiff still for drag grip.

You are correct, I do not have much experience with shock valving. However, being able to adjust rebound and compression separate from one another affords you the ability to tailor your current suspension to something better suited for the driving you're doing. I'm by no means saying it is by far the best setup, but by reducing compression and slowing down rebound it will allow for weight transfer in the rear and less wheel hop. You caught me before I could correct the spring rate in the rear. It is not 5k, it is a 4k spring on the V3 KW's.

I requested Flatoutsuspension to comment in here. He is willing to build custom shocks for the drag guys here.

[JSimpson]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

You are correct, I do not have much experience with shock valving. However, being able to adjust rebound and compression separate from one another affords you the ability to tailor your current suspension to something better suited for the driving you're doing. I'm by no means saying it is by far the best setup, but by reducing compression and slowing down rebound it will allow for weight transfer in the rear and less wheel hop. You caught me before I could correct the spring rate in the rear. It is not 5k, it is a 4k spring on the V3 KW's.

I requested Flatoutsuspension to comment in here. He is willing to build custom shocks for the drag guys here.

Excellent! Excited to hear what his ideas are. Some characteristics that would be nice: gas shocks with a base-valve. And extended travel with an 8 inch by 2.5ID spring.

[silviaNC]

Guys how much you guys think this worth. Z32 TT wheels with MT drag radials. 255/50/16. No much info that I could find








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[jr_ss]

$200-300 depending on how much tread is left and the condition of the rubber.

[JSimpson]

^^tops. An old tire is pretty much worthless. The more heat cycles the harder they get, let alone sitting and drying out.

[candyred_240sx]

Ran 11.06 @ 127mph 1.61 ft on mt et streets with the new engine setup.

S13 full interior with sr22vet gtx3076r .78 @ 20psi running 30% ethanol. Boost was dropping to about 18psi I know it will run a 10 with this tune as it should be holding about 23psi.

Made 546whp @ 20psi on a dynojet. 1000cc injectors are maxed but I have 1650cc injectors going in soon, hoping to get another 100whp out of the setup.

Vid of 11.5 run with 1.8 60'

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Prc6MqbE9Hg

[Yellow4g63]

Didn't think the 3076 had enough for 546whp good job.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Yellow4g63

Didn't think the 3076 had enough for 546whp good job.

That turbo has enough for 600 or more, especially with an octane booster.

Your trap speed seems low for the power you're making. I would expect a 130ish trap at 550whp.

[JSimpson]

Originally Posted by candyred_240sx

Ran 11.06 @ 127mph 1.61 ft on mt et streets with the new engine setup.

S13 full interior with sr22vet gtx3076r .78 @ 20psi running 30% ethanol. Boost was dropping to about 18psi I know it will run a 10 with this tune as it should be holding about 23psi.

Made 546whp @ 20psi on a dynojet. 1000cc injectors are maxed but I have 1650cc injectors going in soon, hoping to get another 100whp out of the setup.

Vid of 11.5 run with 1.8 60'

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Prc6MqbE9Hg

Damn thats badass! That datsun was scooting pretty good too. I bet if he got out of the hole better you guys would have a pretty good race. Can you share any info about your car's setup? Pretty wicked for a soon-to-be 10 second car

[JSimpson]

Alright, did some measuring and testing and whatnot. Also went to Mazworx and checked out their S14 and did some measuring. I bought a bunch of Hyperco springs for myself and others on here who are interested.
For many of us, we have standard S13/S14 coilovers with 8k/6k spring rates. This is far too stiff for drag racing or anyone desiring forward traction. Typically the front is 180mm and the rear is 200mm and the ID of the springs is 62mm.
This translates to ~450lbs front and 325lbs in the rear with 7 and 8 inch springs with 2.5in ID. I bought a few to test fit and they fit like a glove.
Given HKS' drag coilovers spring rates are:
280lb front
168lbs rear
And have been criticized as being "too soft" for squatting too much, I found a cheap solution for us.
Buying a set of Hyperco 200lb springs for the back, then taking off your stock 6k (335b) springs from the back and moving them to the front puts you right about ~35lbs stiffer front and rear from the HKS rates, which would be about ideal.

This works wonders because it gives the front an extra 20mm (1 inch) of front spring to aid in travel and stored energy to lift the front and transfer weight to the rear. Another benefit is that it works perfectly with our shock valving. The heavier the spring, the more valving resistance needed. When we soften our rear springs with our given shock valving it effectively softens compression and increases rebound relative to the spring rate. This is exactly what we are looking for.

The springs retail $89 each from Hypercoils plus $18 for shipping. I bought a ton of them and would be willing to sell a set of them brand new in the box from Hyperco for $150 shipped. I realize this is not a for sale thread but figure I would let you guys know. From my pro racing days I got on Hyperco's warehouse pricing list and would be more than happy to order springs for you guys and save you guys some $$.

For those wondering Hypercoils are the best springs available. They are guaranteed within 1% of their rate with a lifetime guarantee. They are used in Formula 1, IndyCar, Nascar, etc... The Indy location for Penske and Ohlins shocks are good friends of mine and they have seen thousands of the springs dyno/tested and they are usually within 1lb of the marked rate and have much more precise height tolerance than other rival spring manufacturers from my and their experience.

[Sky80]

Originally Posted by JSimpson

Buying a set of Hyperco 200lb springs for the back, then taking off your stock 6k (335b) springs from the back and moving them to the front puts you right about ~35lbs stiffer front and rear from the HKS rates, which would be about ideal.

So have you tried this out yet on your vehicle? How's the ride? Squat? etc

[JSimpson]

Originally Posted by Sky80

So have you tried this out yet on your vehicle? How's the ride? Squat? etc

I will let you know shortly. I copied Mazworx's S14 but obviously they are lighter on front rate. That car needs quick hands at high speeds... I think for the vast majority of us that the 6k up front is what we need. Once you get below ~250 up front the car gets to be a handful at high speeds. 335s up front should drive like a cadillac at high speeds much like the 8ks, but with more stored energy on launch.