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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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09-23-2007, 03:51 PM | #121 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Tune it. Its all about the For me I don't think a AFC will do it. There's some guy on ka-t.org pushing I think 340 at 20psiwith no internals. So you want reliability get a tune.
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09-26-2007, 03:27 PM | #122 |
Zilvia Member
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hey guys im about to turbo my 240
i was wondering have u guys ever heard about dis kit? http://www.advancedjdmparts.com/home.php?cat=302 are they and good? thx for the help |
12-31-2007, 01:30 PM | #123 |
Zilvia Junkie
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This is the Megan Racing top mount manifold. I was just wondering if anyone has it, and was there any fitment issues with it. I know you guys only wanted facts in this thread, but this question comes up a lot and I did multiple searches with different keywords and really came up with nothing. I just wouldn't want people to get this manifold if it has issues of hitting the BMC or the shock tower. Thanks fellas. |
01-23-2008, 09:06 AM | #125 |
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Yo all these ?'s are in the wrong place. That's what your own threads are for. Don't post a ? w/o an anwser. I noticed some new post on the ka24det faq and opened and read these bullshit ass posts above. The mods have stated it a 1000 times not to post questions in these unless of course it has an awnser with it.
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01-23-2008, 10:58 AM | #126 | |
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01-23-2008, 11:00 AM | #127 | |
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02-26-2008, 10:41 AM | #128 |
There is another company out there car p-fabraction.
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02-26-2008, 10:46 AM | #129 |
The p fab manifold is good but there not cheap also
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01-21-2009, 08:35 AM | #130 |
Zilvia Member
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hey back on the aftermarket fpr. Jeff i have a fresh rebult ka24de. Supertech 9.1 pistons,eagle rods, clevite bearings, arp studs, and stock head with stock cams. I am also running e-manage blue. However i bought a megan fpr because my old stock one broke. My headgasket took a crap and when i pulled off the cyclinder head. My cometic hg was crapped. Also the water jacket one of them had a crack and there is pin holes from signs of detonation. I figure this might be my piece of crap megan fpr. It backed outt and the adjusting screw got loose. The guy helping me with my car thinks we should get my car tuned (which i agree thats always good) but with the base tune of the e-manage my car should of ran fine. I think the megan fpr made my car detonate. I only have 370's on my car and im going to run about 8lbs when the car is broken in. Should i just go back to the stock oem fpr and i should be safe. I mean my car before this was a stock bottom end but didnt detonate in one day like this. The stock blue e-manage tune should be fine for td-06 20 g turbo,370's, stock maf, stock cams ,9.1 comp pistons?
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01-21-2009, 09:40 AM | #131 | |
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01-21-2009, 12:50 PM | #132 |
Zilvia Member
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well i didnt wanna start my own thread i thought i was just add on because they were talking about it but if you insist ok.. and i guess you dont know the answer you just yell at people about where they post lol? cool man
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01-21-2009, 02:37 PM | #133 | ||
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POST #110
Quote:
[quote=twofortyrida1388;1785153]Yo all these ?'s are in the wrong place. That's what your own threads are for. Don't post a ? w/o an anwser. I noticed some new post on the ka24det faq and opened and read these bullshit ass posts above. The mods have stated it a 1000 times not to post questions in these unless of course it has an awnser with it.[/quote] POST# 130 Quote:
It's been posted many times(if YOU REALLY READ the thread you would have seen it!). This is a FAQ thread, meaning there is a question AND answer posted. If YOU have a question on how to or what should I do, start your own thread so YOUR specific item can be addressed WITHOUT other things being discussed. It's common sense. As you can see above in the quotes, you posted a question(post #130) that was addressed 5 posts prior(post #125) to yours as something that shouldn't be in here! And I wasn't yelling, I made a statement and gave you guidance on where to voice your concern properly. I didn't call you names, or say "F'n search" or anything like that. Start acting like the adult you should be and you will be taken seriously. Pop an attitude like you did and your feelings will get hurt and you'll post more stupid replies. To answer your question, use a FPR that has a good rep. I use have used AEM and Aeromotive in the past with no problems. Some guys run Nismo FPR that bolts right up to the OEM fuel rail with no problems. My current build is going to have a Synapse Engineering FPR, cause I want to see how it does. If you want simple, just get a Nismo or OEM replacement one. Worked great before! There. Look, I answered your question! And yes, you should always get your car tuned after replacing things that changes fuel rate(bigger injectors), ignition, compression among other things. I learned this the hard and expensive way. And, when you freshly rebuilt the block, did you have to deck the block and head? You never mentioned this. If either was/is warped you would get water leakage into the cylinders due to the gasket not sealing well. Excessive water in there doesn't compress well. So, yes you should start your own thread. Beacause more info needs to be posted to figure out what happened.
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05-14-2009, 10:12 PM | #135 |
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No one is using nistune? Nistune works wonders for the z31. I will be turboing my ka with in the year and I plan to use nistune.
NIStune - Nissan Realtime ECU tuning |
05-17-2009, 05:48 PM | #136 |
Leaky Injector
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is the the stock ka fuel pump good enough for a t25 set up? maybe 200-230hp or its a must to get the walbro 255??? Cuz i just purchased a new oem fuel pump! doah!
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06-21-2009, 11:29 AM | #138 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Oil pressure question ????
Can anybody tell me what my oil pressure should be at idle? Fully built KA
RPM at idle are at 750 Mobil Synthetic 5-30 oil. My oil pressure guage shows 10 lbs at idle. Whe i step on gas pressure goes up. But is 10 lbs safe and correct? |
09-17-2009, 06:09 PM | #140 |
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i have a little question, im wanting to run a basic turbo set up on my KA
and i was wondering do i have to run a rrfpr if im only shooting for 200hp? also can any recommend a good bottom mount manifold? thanks guys |
10-15-2009, 11:19 AM | #141 | |
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10-15-2009, 11:21 AM | #142 | |
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rrfpr? im not up to date. ams offers a pretty nice bottom mount manifold. its going to cost you though. |
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10-15-2009, 11:23 AM | #143 | |
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for what? if your doing emissions delete the only thing vacuum you need is going to be your break booster and your fuel pressure regulator. and of course any of your turbo accessories |
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10-15-2009, 11:28 AM | #145 | |
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10-15-2009, 11:31 AM | #146 | |
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11-27-2009, 09:38 AM | #147 |
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Ok so I need help!
I have my full ka-t setup but I need oil/coolant lines and Idk what sizes I need to get them made. I'm headed to a hydraulic shop today but how do I know what size to tap my oil pan and what thread/pitch for the turbo? Here's what I have; T2 turbo Bm manifold N60 maf 330cc injectors 3in downpipe and elbow Ebay fmic Safc neo Ful catback 3in exhaust Sunpro boost/oil pressure guages Basically I need these lines done today so I can have it done next wknd. So help! |
11-28-2009, 11:16 AM | #148 |
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I just did my turbo kit last month. I used a neukin mainfold (equal length) sc5557 turbo (billet wheel) custom v mount walbro 255 full exhaust synapse bov and 50mm wastgate set at 8 psi. Act clutch and flywheel. Stock injectors and stock fpr what would u guess I'm makin 230-240 whp? And when the motors cold I have to give it gas for about 5 sec and then it will idle fine but if I don't it dies on me. Anyone have similar problem?
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