Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[codyace]

Originally Posted by mr.fixit

So im looking at getting this ka-t to throw in my other shell. the guy says he has pictures and receipts to prove all the forged internals and shit it has but is there any other way to prove this. i cant start it and see if it has piston slap before it gets warm because the motor is pulled. and the only other option is to pull it all apart but thats not very realistic before buying it. any input would be great, thanks.

Pull the oil pan and look at the rods and bottom of pistons. That's the easiest way to tell.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

A well built header with a 4:2:1 design and a correctly built merge collector will enhance mid range, and top end performance at the cost of a slight off idle to low end loss. Where many lose all low to midrange performance is putting a 3" system on a stock or lightly modded engine that can't sustain the volume:velocity ratios that a 3" system needs to correctly perform.

I know this, we build headers for a very reputable Porsche engine shop. I'm saying for these cars, most disregard design for C O M and ease of production AKA, whatever works. It's a shame, but most 240 kids aren't going to buy a well made header this side of the track guys.

Originally Posted by acslater9

I was reading the "Definitive z32 brake swap" and it said that the MC was probably the most important part of the swap. Is it really worth changing the MC? Can someone explain to me how it would feel if I don't add a 300zx MC?

Thanks

Squishy as heck.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

If you are pushing more than 250hp at the flywheel you will see gains going to a 3". It takes 250+ to make a 3" work better for velocity and scavenging. Anything under 250hp does better with a 2.5" system. A 3" under 250hp will see gains in top end only without a proper tune, and even with a proper tune, the 2.5" will have more power from mid to high rpm than with a 3". Remember, as the old men said when V8's were being bumped to 3" systems, they knew it took 500hp to make them work RIGHT. The import guys split that number in half due to only having four cylinders. The rule of hp vs pipe diameter still applies up to 250hp IF you want proper scavenging and velocity

If it wasn't for my server crashing behind repair, I'd show you 2.0 and 2.4 both making power with same setups going from 2.5 to 3". We made as much hp with S5's on a DE with a Gen 3 (or was it a Gen 5, I can't recall) and a 3" exhaust as bolt in VE guys made after going from 2.5 to 3" and they weren't anywhere near 250 flywheel. However this goes back to before where it was on a car with cams and header, not a plain jane with a catback LOL.

[IceCream]

anyone know about what suspension parts swap over from the s13 to the s14?? i have an s13 with everything and an s14 shell with no rust at all, just wondering if the subframe and other suspension parts would swap over with little work

[S14DB]

Just noticed this. Thanks Cody...

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

If you are pushing more than 250hp at the flywheel you will see gains going to a 3". It takes 250+ to make a 3" work better for velocity and scavenging. Anything under 250hp does better with a 2.5" system. A 3" under 250hp will see gains in top end only without a proper tune, and even with a proper tune, the 2.5" will have more power from mid to high rpm than with a 3". Remember, as the old men said when V8's were being bumped to 3" systems, they knew it took 500hp to make them work RIGHT. The import guys split that number in half due to only having four cylinders. The rule of hp vs pipe diameter still applies up to 250hp IF you want proper scavenging and velocity

Let me take you on back to 2006...

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/102582...fter-dyno.html

[S-Nation S13]

I bought a oil filter relocation kit ( Used ) from a fellow member , my question is and im pretty sure the answer is NO but .. can i reuse the o-ring? i did some searching its DERALE PERFORMANCE single top port filter mount 3/4"-16 threaded oil filters

question 2 what if the oil pressure for ka24de's idle/and at WOT ? just want to make sure that ill be ok and with in spec by relocating the oil filter.

[Deftenigma]

I have an AE86 SR5 Corolla.
Bad brakes, bad tires, no power steering, needs tags, needs smog. There is someone willing to trade his 1990 240SX for my car. I very badly want a 240 and to be rid of 86. His car is on non op and he has the pink slip on hand. He says his car doesn't run due to a "rod". I realize this might mean metal hit metal and might need a new engine. I looked up a rebuild kit and it costs about 400$. Will the rebuild kit fix this kind of problem? My car is my dd and I use it all the time, it's reliable. I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth it or stupid?? I would greatly appreciate all the input, thank you very much.

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[Reece]

Originally Posted by Deftenigma

I have an AE86 SR5 Corolla.
Bad brakes, bad tires, no power steering, needs tags, needs smog. There is someone willing to trade his 1990 240SX for my car. I very badly want a 240 and to be rid of 86. His car is on non op and he has the pink slip on hand. He says his car doesn't run due to a "rod". I realize this might mean metal hit metal and might need a new engine. I looked up a rebuild kit and it costs about 400$. Will the rebuild kit fix this kind of problem? My car is my dd and I use it all the time, it's reliable. I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth it or stupid?? I would greatly appreciate all the input, thank you very much.

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You can find that motor for sale online for under $300. I'd consider doing it.

[Deftenigma]

Originally Posted by Reece

You can find that motor for sale online for under $300. I'd consider doing it.

Will it be everything I need if I buy it online? Like all the hoses and things like that?

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[trentjsd]

Does anyone know what brake pads to use on R33 GTS-T brakes? Are they the same as 300zx?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by trentjsd

Does anyone know what brake pads to use on R33 GTS-T brakes? Are they the same as 300zx?

Pads are the same. All the 4 piston fronts and 2 piston rears use the same pad sets(F/R).

[Reece]

Originally Posted by Deftenigma

Will it be everything I need if I buy it online? Like all the hoses and things like that?

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It should be. If not online, you can find pretty much everything you need on Craigslist or on this site for pretty cheap.

[xoxide]

Anyone know what thread pitch/size fittings go into the steering rack? Looking to convert to AN, but not sure what metric size fittings to buy.

[robinsone]

Originally Posted by IceCream

anyone know about what suspension parts swap over from the s13 to the s14?? i have an s13 with everything and an s14 shell with no rust at all, just wondering if the subframe and other suspension parts would swap over with little work

IIRC the s13 subframe is smaller or not as wide as the s14, s14 was wider, so you can't exchange a s13 for a s14 but you can do the s14 sub in a s13 with the adapters that are available.

Control arms, only the traction (short) and upper control arms will swap over no sweat. The toe arm (really long arm) has different bushings, the s13 bushing is short while the s14 bushing is wider, so you can just swap out bushings and it'll fit. The rear lower control arms on the s14 have wider bushings as well and you can't swap a smaller bushing arm from an s13 to the s14.

Similar year J30 or Q45 has the same rear lower control arms as the s14, but the ball joints are different sizes i believe. I can't remember if the Z32 had the s13 rear lower control arms or not, but everything else on a rear z32 and s13 is the same, sans the subframe. You can swap the traction and upper control arms of a J30 or Q45, also the Q45 toe arm will work with an s14 not sure about the J30.

So somehow you can piece it all together.

[Johannes]

Anyone happen to know the font type and font size they use for the sticker on the rear rocket bunny wing/(over)fenders?

Shown here that says "Rocket Bunny"



Finishing up my rocket bunny and all I need is the rear wing(coming sometime next week) and I would like to get a custom sticker made.

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[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by codyace

Call the dealer and get the OEM ones?

I've never had good luck with the non OEM ones as they don't have the nice smooth unthreaded part to take up the slack between parts...sure you can run a regular bolt but each 'thread point' is a weak spot....

Picked up some much needed driveshaft bolts from NISSAN - Nothing like shiny new OEM hardware and for under $9 you may as well just do etttt

[kaul_]

Did USDM S13 coupes ever come with a rear spoiler? Got a PS13 Silvia with a spoilerless boot but the car originally had a spoiler so every time I open the boot it flicks up violently due to the torsion bars or whatever. Anyone know how to fix it without weighing down the boot/removing the torsion setup completely?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

I bought a oil filter relocation kit ( Used ) from a fellow member , my question is and im pretty sure the answer is NO but .. can i reuse the o-ring? i did some searching its DERALE PERFORMANCE single top port filter mount 3/4"-16 threaded oil filters

question 2 what if the oil pressure for ka24de's idle/and at WOT ? just want to make sure that ill be ok and with in spec by relocating the oil filter.

I wouldn't re use the o ring, I'd just go get another cheapy filter and use the O ring from that (assuming it's a flat o ring). If it's a round one just lube it up and install.

You'll be fine pressure wise, it's not going to change that much if at all on the gauge.

Originally Posted by xoxide

Anyone know what thread pitch/size fittings go into the steering rack? Looking to convert to AN, but not sure what metric size fittings to buy.

DIY power steering + AN fittings - Carolinanissans.com

Originally Posted by Johannes

Anyone happen to know the font type and font size they use for the sticker on the rear rocket bunny wing/(over)fenders?

Shown here that says "Rocket Bunny"

Finishing up my rocket bunny and all I need is the rear wing(coming sometime next week) and I would like to get a custom sticker made.

Proper+ Shop ? Catalog Products ? Rocket Bunny

They may be able to help?

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

Picked up some much needed driveshaft bolts from NISSAN - Nothing like shiny new OEM hardware and for under $9 you may as well just do etttt

Hell yea man!

Originally Posted by kaul_

Did USDM S13 coupes ever come with a rear spoiler? Got a PS13 Silvia with a spoilerless boot but the car originally had a spoiler so every time I open the boot it flicks up violently due to the torsion bars or whatever. Anyone know how to fix it without weighing down the boot/removing the torsion setup completely?

You'd need to spoilerless trunk torsion springs.

[ryandriftingfat]

What kind of temperature reduction can I expect before/after the radiator?

This is for track use only. It's an SR, I have a Koyo N-Flow and dual FAL fans (S-blade) with shroud. run straight distilled water and a bottle of water wetter. No heater core, no AC condenser. I have a fanless oil cooler as well.

Thx.

[Chuki_KA24e]

I didn't want to post this question in the fitment thread so I'm asking it here. I am picking up some used PBM coils this weekend and I was wondering if I will have to do a chassis harness tuck to keep from rubbing. Nothing major as far as fitting big wheels, I'm only using 16x8 0 offset, with 205/50/16 tires. I have already tucked the drivers side harness but didn't have time to do the passenger side and I'm not wanting to pull my fender off at the moment. I am planning on going nearly as low as possible but not quite maxed out. Any helpful advice would be great!

[Thedriftbadger]

Originally Posted by Deftenigma

I have an AE86 SR5 Corolla.
Bad brakes, bad tires, no power steering, needs tags, needs smog. There is someone willing to trade his 1990 240SX for my car. I very badly want a 240 and to be rid of 86. His car is on non op and he has the pink slip on hand. He says his car doesn't run due to a "rod". I realize this might mean metal hit metal and might need a new engine. I looked up a rebuild kit and it costs about 400$. Will the rebuild kit fix this kind of problem? My car is my dd and I use it all the time, it's reliable. I guess what I'm asking is, is it worth it or stupid?? I would greatly appreciate all the input, thank you very much.

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First of all i just bought a complete running ka for $120, so if you need a new motor it's not a problem. Second, if it has a rod knock you don't need a new motor, just a simple stock rebuild is fine and cheap to do. It will be a few bucks more than just grabbing another ka but you get a motor with 0 hours and 0 miles, vs a 20 year old motor with god knows how many miles.

Originally Posted by Chuki_KA24e

I didn't want to post this question in the fitment thread so I'm asking it here. I am picking up some used PBM coils this weekend and I was wondering if I will have to do a chassis harness tuck to keep from rubbing. Nothing major as far as fitting big wheels, I'm only using 16x8 0 offset, with 205/50/16 tires. I have already tucked the drivers side harness but didn't have time to do the passenger side and I'm not wanting to pull my fender off at the moment. I am planning on going nearly as low as possible but not quite maxed out. Any helpful advice would be great!

Tuck it. It takes like 20 minutes if you're slow. Or spend hours piecing your harness back together when the tire eats it and leaves you stranded. Your choice. I feel like you haven't rolled your fenders either, so do that too. Where in florida are you

[Chuki_KA24e]

Thanks DriftBadger, that's exactly the advice I was looking for. If there's even the slightest chance of rubbing and leaving myself stranded I'd rather tuck. My fenders are rolled believe it or not. I have to apologize for my supposed location. I was getting a lot of hate on some comments I posted in another thread(cant remember what one) so I "changed" my location to "Floriduh". I'm in Canada...

[DialedLife]

Chuki, definitely take the time to tuck the harness! My passenger wheel is 1/2" front the top of the wheel well and it never rubs. But I rubbed through it by the grommet in the firewall. I'll be tacklin this pita sometime soon.

I wish I did it when I hammered the tire killers

Oh also, the passenger harness is just wipers, wiper fluid, and cruise. Maybe something else, so it can't leave you stranded.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by ryandriftingfat

What kind of temperature reduction can I expect before/after the radiator?

This is for track use only. It's an SR, I have a Koyo N-Flow and dual FAL fans (S-blade) with shroud. run straight distilled water and a bottle of water wetter. No heater core, no AC condenser. I have a fanless oil cooler as well.

Thx.

Hard to say. You should be around 200-210 post head temps I'd assume.

[SidewaysS13ka]

hey zilvia. i was looking over my ka since its out of the car and when i wrecked my car i smashed the aac plug off the firewall, so i took just the aac off the iacv and was looking over the aac and seen the little pintle like thing in the aac and figured it should move, but it was stuck. my question is shouldnt you be able to push it in and it pops back out or does it need manifold pressure to push the pintle? i got a new one anyway since the plug was smashed, just wondering if theres a way to check if they are good.

[robinsone]

Originally Posted by SidewaysS13ka

hey zilvia. i was looking over my ka since its out of the car and when i wrecked my car i smashed the aac plug off the firewall, so i took just the aac off the iacv and was looking over the aac and seen the little pintle like thing in the aac and figured it should move, but it was stuck. my question is shouldnt you be able to push it in and it pops back out or does it need manifold pressure to push the pintle? i got a new one anyway since the plug was smashed, just wondering if theres a way to check if they are good.

yeah there is its in the FSM apply 12 volt to it and it should click or something, its in the FSM for sure though

[SidewaysS13ka]

Originally Posted by robinsone

yeah there is its in the FSM apply 12 volt to it and it should click or something, its in the FSM for sure though

thanks,but it might be hard to apply voltage to a smashed plug, i mean i can cut the sub harness and apply directly to the wires.

[Kingbaby]

Installed 30mm rotors on a s14 along with Hawk pads. Brake feel was horrible and eventually the rotor and pad seized up?

Has anyone seen this or heard of this happening? The fit was super tight with both new pads and rotors.

Thanks for any inputs or direction.

[DialedLife]

How much does coilover droop effect ride quality? I'm on blown kei office(yes I know, upgrade time) which I believe is 9k/8k. The front and back are drooped 2-3" because the bottom collars were stuck.

Would I benefit greatly by preloading them and really working on the collars? My springs feel really soft, like softer than my grand am. I'm not sure if it's because they're old or the droop. Thanks guys.

[94_240sx]

Well, someone asked about where to buy these s13 clear tail lights and Andy's Auto Sport has them. Thread got locked, so I'm leaving here for whoever wants to buy them. Email this guy and ask. I just want to help fellow members. That is all.

[email protected]

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Kingbaby

Installed 30mm rotors on a s14 along with Hawk pads. Brake feel was horrible and eventually the rotor and pad seized up?

Has anyone seen this or heard of this happening? The fit was super tight with both new pads and rotors.

Thanks for any inputs or direction.

What master do you have?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Kingbaby

Installed 30mm rotors on a s14 along with Hawk pads. Brake feel was horrible and eventually the rotor and pad seized up?

Has anyone seen this or heard of this happening? The fit was super tight with both new pads and rotors.

Thanks for any inputs or direction.

Originally Posted by dev71893

What master do you have?

More information on your setup period would help...