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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#16201 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Really small question.. Where are people running input wire for gauges through to the engine bay? Currently I have all aftermarket wiring running through the drivers side chassis harness hole and into the bay but my new gauges will be mounted in the middle of the dash. I was thinking about running them through the defroster vent and out where the engine harness goes but idk. Any suggestions are welcome, thanks.
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#16202 | |
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instagrizzle @meadwa |
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#16203 |
Nissanaholic!
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Put in the most hidden location, thats the farthest from a heat source. And if however possible, make a good bracket so that it doesnt jostle or rip off easily.
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#16204 |
![]() Hey, I'm new to this forum and hope I'm in the right place. Anyways, My 1996 s14 has some camber in the rear that I don't want so I'm going to get a camber kit. Iv'e done some research but I cant find weather or not I need both upper and lower camber adjustment arms or one over the other. If anyone has any information I would sure enjoy listening.
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#16205 | |
Bandwagon.
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if your car is stock get ruca (rear upper control arm) to adjust your camber and toe rod so you have more adjustments with what camber specs youre aiming for. |
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#16206 |
Nissanaholic!
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maybe im missing something here but im not sure it that simple. if you look at the switch for the folding mirrors there is a neutral position where the motors are not moving the mirrors/getting 12v. if you hard wire the mirrors to the ignition wouldnt you need a way to turn off the motors once they have extended/retracted the mirrors?
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#16208 |
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#16210 | |
Zilvia Addict
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http://emeraldcoastdrifters.com/2012...r-angle-guide/ I used to have a link that gave more drawings of what squat and anti squat is and does for your car set up, but the domain was sold
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1996 Zenki 'Baraketsu Tenshi', Burst Angel My work in progress... |
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#16211 |
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I noticed this last night while driving my car. When I was stopped, whether it was on a red light or stop sign, my lights all would dim. As soon as I hit the gas the lights would light up bright. Also it felt like the car wanted to shut off sometimes while stopped.
What is causing this problem? Alternator? Need of a new battery? any suggestions thanks. |
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#16212 | |
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Multimeter to check Alternator output. Mine did this and with car running I only got 12.8 - 13.1 at the battery. Put in a diff alternator and im gettign 14.4 -14.8 at the battery now and no more power issues. Hope you get this sorted out. Before you replace the alternator though check the outputs at the alt also in case its a wire issue. You can PM me if you need more info on this issue or some pictures to help |
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#16213 | |
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My gauges run through the firewall drivers side, and up the side of the dash straight to behind the A pillar. Thats for my Oil Press and Boost gauge lines. Power is tapped from Radio 12v. I can send pics of my location if needed. This is on an s13 hatch. |
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#16214 | |
Future Moderator
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Are EDM S14 Kouki clusters plug and play with USDM chassis or are mods required? Anyone know where to source a new cluster?
edit: specifically the LHD 200sx, I think those came in MPH
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#16216 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Am I understanding properly, that subframe collars will decrease anti-squat, by lowering the subframe (spacing it lower than it was, in relation to the chassis)?
And, then they lower the roll center? |
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#16217 | |
Zilvia Addict
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What you are seeing is a slight power loss as the alternator slows from mid rev to idle. This strongly indicates an alternator issue and not a battery issue, BUT, a mostly dead battery will cause the same problems right before it dies. Anytime you lower any part of the chassis, you change the total squat either plus or minus(anti-squat). Squat and anti-squat are most apparent under acceleration and deceleration. This is where the suspension behavior shows exactly what the car is doing. Lowering with one single part, you might change the overall squat a minute amount as well as the overall roll center, but remember, that one part will force geometry changes everywhere else in the suspension that may or may not negate the effect of the part you are changing
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1996 Zenki 'Baraketsu Tenshi', Burst Angel My work in progress... |
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#16218 | |
Zilvia Addict
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For four corners to be done right like this, it can take up to four months. I watched a master in San Jose named Dallas do this to my Pop's XKE E Type(1967). Each wheelwell was heated and pulled to match existing body lines, but fatter. After it was done, the huge Corvette Rally wheels fit the car nicely as it was also race stanced. With the current 18's on it, it still to this day takes someone who really knows jags to see what was done. The purists cringe when they recognize this, and the modifiers fall to their knees and weep with joy at the mad skills this job took to pull off ![]()
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1996 Zenki 'Baraketsu Tenshi', Burst Angel My work in progress... |
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#16220 | ||
Zilvia Addict
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If you have a KA and plan on keeping it for awhile, do the Nissan Quest alternator swap! Otherwise, simply replace or rebuild your alternator. Quote:
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#16221 | |
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Sorry I should've been more clear... The person before me lowered the car so low that I couldn't get over speed bumps so I raised it a bit but it still has loads of camber. And thanks for the help... I'll use this item to help me along the way. |
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#16223 |
Hey everyone. First post.
I'm doing anything and everything to get ahold of a set of WORK Emotion XT7's in Matt Gray Silver in 18". Specs as follows; 10.5 +15 rear Then 9.5 +12ish up front They will be going on a 5 lug swap. But I have not found any retailer that has them in the spec I want. Any help or assistance? Thanks in advance! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#16225 |
Zilvia Member
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Quick question i have the s14 gas leak problems (1995)
Anyways i bought a 1997 gastank it fits bt the wiring is diffrent? Is there a way to fix this or should jst get a 1995 gastank?
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#16226 |
Zilvia Member
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Can I replace the fuel feed line from the fuel tank top to the hard line on my S14 without dropping the tank?
Just fitted a 255 and now the fuel line right on top of the tank is leaking. Thanks in advance. |
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#16228 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Started to drop the subframe the other night, should of been an easy task. Got to the part where we zipped off the last two bolts for the subframe itself anndddd nothing. We have some space starting on 3 of the studs but the right rear is tight as can be still. Smacked on it with a hammer trying to break any seal that could of formed there, but it is still stuck tight. It appears to be some solid bushings already in there (coming out regardless for SPL so i can adjust better).
All 4 wheels are off the ground and the car is on stands, so could chassis flex be the possible cause of this apparent binding? Will hopefully get to the shop tonight to tinker a little more, so any advice will be useful. Thanks guys. |
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#16229 | |
Zilvia Addict
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It would be best to have it retuned by the same company, ie, if it's RS Enthalpy, send it back to Martin.
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just get the correct 95 stuff. For some reason, there are lots of parts that don't fit from '95's on kouki's, but 96's do...could be OBDII related too as '95 is OBDI
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1996 Zenki 'Baraketsu Tenshi', Burst Angel My work in progress... |
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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