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Old 03-06-2014, 03:14 PM   #16201
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Really small question.. Where are people running input wire for gauges through to the engine bay? Currently I have all aftermarket wiring running through the drivers side chassis harness hole and into the bay but my new gauges will be mounted in the middle of the dash. I was thinking about running them through the defroster vent and out where the engine harness goes but idk. Any suggestions are welcome, thanks.
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Old 03-06-2014, 03:30 PM   #16202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacotaco345 View Post
Really small question.. Where are people running input wire for gauges through to the engine bay? Currently I have all aftermarket wiring running through the drivers side chassis harness hole and into the bay but my new gauges will be mounted in the middle of the dash. I was thinking about running them through the defroster vent and out where the engine harness goes but idk. Any suggestions are welcome, thanks.
are you referring to the 12v ignition source?
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:43 PM   #16203
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Put in the most hidden location, thats the farthest from a heat source. And if however possible, make a good bracket so that it doesnt jostle or rip off easily.
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Old 03-06-2014, 05:28 PM   #16204
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Question Camber Question

Hey, I'm new to this forum and hope I'm in the right place. Anyways, My 1996 s14 has some camber in the rear that I don't want so I'm going to get a camber kit. Iv'e done some research but I cant find weather or not I need both upper and lower camber adjustment arms or one over the other. If anyone has any information I would sure enjoy listening.

Thanks.
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:22 PM   #16205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EpicPorkChop View Post
Hey, I'm new to this forum and hope I'm in the right place. Anyways, My 1996 s14 has some camber in the rear that I don't want so I'm going to get a camber kit. Iv'e done some research but I cant find weather or not I need both upper and lower camber adjustment arms or one over the other. If anyone has any information I would sure enjoy listening.

Thanks.

if your car is stock get ruca (rear upper control arm) to adjust your camber and toe rod so you have more adjustments with what camber specs youre aiming for.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:20 PM   #16206
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Originally Posted by S14DB View Post

Yeah, you'll need a 87 relay. Closed hocked up to power off and open to power on.
maybe im missing something here but im not sure it that simple. if you look at the switch for the folding mirrors there is a neutral position where the motors are not moving the mirrors/getting 12v. if you hard wire the mirrors to the ignition wouldnt you need a way to turn off the motors once they have extended/retracted the mirrors?
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:11 PM   #16207
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any one have experience with the godspeed gen2 arms, rods, etc? how are they?
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:04 PM   #16208
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Originally Posted by hOngsterr View Post
if your car is stock get ruca (rear upper control arm) to adjust your camber and toe rod so you have more adjustments with what camber specs youre aiming for.
Thanks I appreciate it
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:36 PM   #16209
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are you referring to the 12v ignition source?
No the input wire that comes off of the motor. I just tapped 12v from the stereo wiring
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Old 03-07-2014, 05:35 AM   #16210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EpicPorkChop View Post
Hey, I'm new to this forum and hope I'm in the right place. Anyways, My 1996 s14 has some camber in the rear that I don't want so I'm going to get a camber kit. Iv'e done some research but I cant find weather or not I need both upper and lower camber adjustment arms or one over the other. If anyone has any information I would sure enjoy listening.

Thanks.
You mean that tiny bit of stock camber Nissan put in? If you replace your Rear Upper Control Arms, you will be able to get rid of it, but take a serious look at all the angles. The most important thing to readjust when you put in adjustable suspension is SQUAT. This is the place these cars need more adjustment than anything. If you have no clue what I am talking about, educate yourself here:

http://emeraldcoastdrifters.com/2012...r-angle-guide/


I used to have a link that gave more drawings of what squat and anti squat is and does for your car set up, but the domain was sold
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:53 AM   #16211
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I noticed this last night while driving my car. When I was stopped, whether it was on a red light or stop sign, my lights all would dim. As soon as I hit the gas the lights would light up bright. Also it felt like the car wanted to shut off sometimes while stopped.

What is causing this problem? Alternator? Need of a new battery? any suggestions thanks.
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:42 AM   #16212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acslater9 View Post
I noticed this last night while driving my car. When I was stopped, whether it was on a red light or stop sign, my lights all would dim. As soon as I hit the gas the lights would light up bright. Also it felt like the car wanted to shut off sometimes while stopped.

What is causing this problem? Alternator? Need of a new battery? any suggestions thanks.

Multimeter to check Alternator output. Mine did this and with car running I only got 12.8 - 13.1 at the battery. Put in a diff alternator and im gettign 14.4 -14.8 at the battery now and no more power issues.

Hope you get this sorted out. Before you replace the alternator though check the outputs at the alt also in case its a wire issue.

You can PM me if you need more info on this issue or some pictures to help
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Did you check the potato fuse located in the front right corner of your gas tank?
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No i haven't. To be honest i didnt know there was a fuse there. Thats not a fuse for the fuel pump is it?
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:44 AM   #16213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacotaco345 View Post
No the input wire that comes off of the motor. I just tapped 12v from the stereo wiring

My gauges run through the firewall drivers side, and up the side of the dash straight to behind the A pillar. Thats for my Oil Press and Boost gauge lines. Power is tapped from Radio 12v.

I can send pics of my location if needed. This is on an s13 hatch.
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Did you check the potato fuse located in the front right corner of your gas tank?
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No i haven't. To be honest i didnt know there was a fuse there. Thats not a fuse for the fuel pump is it?
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:43 AM   #16214
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Are EDM S14 Kouki clusters plug and play with USDM chassis or are mods required? Anyone know where to source a new cluster?

edit: specifically the LHD 200sx, I think those came in MPH
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:15 PM   #16215
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can you wire up 180sx kouki turn signals as position/fog lights?
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:52 PM   #16216
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Am I understanding properly, that subframe collars will decrease anti-squat, by lowering the subframe (spacing it lower than it was, in relation to the chassis)?

And, then they lower the roll center?
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:39 AM   #16217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acslater9 View Post
I noticed this last night while driving my car. When I was stopped, whether it was on a red light or stop sign, my lights all would dim. As soon as I hit the gas the lights would light up bright. Also it felt like the car wanted to shut off sometimes while stopped.

What is causing this problem? Alternator? Need of a new battery? any suggestions thanks.
This can be as simple as a loose belt on the alternator or as complicated as an alternator that needs to be rebuilt. As stated, you need to take a voltage reading, or better yet, go to Autozone et al and have them do an amp check on your charging system(FREE). This will tell you if your amp is the issue(sounds like it). A voltage check with an ammeter will work ok, but will not properly diagnose amperage issues as it does not have the capacity to work with the 500+ amps you have with your battery/alternator.
What you are seeing is a slight power loss as the alternator slows from mid rev to idle. This strongly indicates an alternator issue and not a battery issue, BUT, a mostly dead battery will cause the same problems right before it dies.

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Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron View Post
Am I understanding properly, that subframe collars will decrease anti-squat, by lowering the subframe (spacing it lower than it was, in relation to the chassis)?

And, then they lower the roll center?
Anytime you lower any part of the chassis, you change the total squat either plus or minus(anti-squat). Squat and anti-squat are most apparent under acceleration and deceleration. This is where the suspension behavior shows exactly what the car is doing. Lowering with one single part, you might change the overall squat a minute amount as well as the overall roll center, but remember, that one part will force geometry changes everywhere else in the suspension that may or may not negate the effect of the part you are changing
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:46 AM   #16218
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Fuck that is one tight pull. I agree with codyace. That dude knows his shit and will cost to get it to be like that

Edit. Looking at the front too fuck that is a lot of work lol
To do this, you must be ready to part with more money on paint. If you do not like the scent of burning paint, you have to sand it all off. Once you have the suspension out of the way, the torch work begins with the use of dollys and hammers, bags and mallets. Heat metal, form metal, pound metal, heat metal, pound metal, form metal...then you get to sand and paint.
For four corners to be done right like this, it can take up to four months. I watched a master in San Jose named Dallas do this to my Pop's XKE E Type(1967). Each wheelwell was heated and pulled to match existing body lines, but fatter. After it was done, the huge Corvette Rally wheels fit the car nicely as it was also race stanced. With the current 18's on it, it still to this day takes someone who really knows jags to see what was done. The purists cringe when they recognize this, and the modifiers fall to their knees and weep with joy at the mad skills this job took to pull off
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Old 03-08-2014, 09:39 AM   #16219
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Do anyone have 180sx OEM chuki sideskirts for sale that I can buy? If so thatd be great thanks.
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Old 03-08-2014, 02:31 PM   #16220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acslater9 View Post
I noticed this last night while driving my car. When I was stopped, whether it was on a red light or stop sign, my lights all would dim. As soon as I hit the gas the lights would light up bright. Also it felt like the car wanted to shut off sometimes while stopped.

What is causing this problem? Alternator? Need of a new battery? any suggestions thanks.
Same exact thing happened to me several months ago when I first got my car. The S13 stock alternators are pretty shittastic. At first, I thought it was my battery, but checking it with a volt meter, it was fine. Thought it was the FL75A fuse, so i replaced it, not much improvement. Then, after my car kept dying about 5-6 times randomly at different places over the course of a couple weeks, I found out it was my alternator. I replaced it with a 1997 Nissan Quest stock alternator from Autozone. My car now idles great and the needle doesn't dip down whenever I press on my brake pedal, turn on my lights, turn on my dome light, etc.

If you have a KA and plan on keeping it for awhile, do the Nissan Quest alternator swap! Otherwise, simply replace or rebuild your alternator.

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Do anyone have 180sx OEM chuki sideskirts for sale that I can buy? If so thatd be great thanks.
Post here: http://zilvia.net/f/forumdisplay.php?f=14
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Old 03-08-2014, 03:16 PM   #16221
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Quote:
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You mean that tiny bit of stock camber Nissan put in? If you replace your Rear Upper Control Arms, you will be able to get rid of it, but take a serious look at all the angles. The most important thing to readjust when you put in adjustable suspension is SQUAT. This is the place these cars need more adjustment than anything. If you have no clue what I am talking about, educate yourself here:

http://emeraldcoastdrifters.com/2012...r-angle-guide/


I used to have a link that gave more drawings of what squat and anti squat is and does for your car set up, but the domain was sold


Sorry I should've been more clear... The person before me lowered the car so low that I couldn't get over speed bumps so I raised it a bit but it still has loads of camber. And thanks for the help... I'll use this item to help me along the way.
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Old 03-09-2014, 01:55 AM   #16222
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If I buy an aftermarket ecu, can it be flashed for a tune?
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:47 AM   #16223
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Hey everyone. First post.
I'm doing anything and everything to get ahold of a set of WORK Emotion XT7's in Matt Gray Silver in 18".
Specs as follows;
10.5 +15 rear
Then 9.5 +12ish up front
They will be going on a 5 lug swap.

But I have not found any retailer that has them in the spec I want.
Any help or assistance?

Thanks in advance!


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Old 03-09-2014, 03:12 PM   #16224
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How long do I have to be a member before I can post in the classifieds? Thanks.
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Old 03-09-2014, 04:13 PM   #16225
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Quick question i have the s14 gas leak problems (1995)
Anyways i bought a 1997 gastank it fits bt the wiring is diffrent?
Is there a way to fix this or should jst get a 1995 gastank?
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:07 PM   #16226
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Can I replace the fuel feed line from the fuel tank top to the hard line on my S14 without dropping the tank?
Just fitted a 255 and now the fuel line right on top of the tank is leaking.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:07 PM   #16227
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This may be a off topic question but I was wondering what the hell is this color? I have no clue but I want to paint my ride this color.

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Old 03-10-2014, 06:08 AM   #16228
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Started to drop the subframe the other night, should of been an easy task. Got to the part where we zipped off the last two bolts for the subframe itself anndddd nothing. We have some space starting on 3 of the studs but the right rear is tight as can be still. Smacked on it with a hammer trying to break any seal that could of formed there, but it is still stuck tight. It appears to be some solid bushings already in there (coming out regardless for SPL so i can adjust better).

All 4 wheels are off the ground and the car is on stands, so could chassis flex be the possible cause of this apparent binding? Will hopefully get to the shop tonight to tinker a little more, so any advice will be useful.

Thanks guys.
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:53 AM   #16229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240Z28 View Post
If I buy an aftermarket ecu, can it be flashed for a tune?
It would be best to have it retuned by the same company, ie, if it's RS Enthalpy, send it back to Martin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLUGyy View Post
Hey everyone. First post.
I'm doing anything and everything to get ahold of a set of WORK Emotion XT7's in Matt Gray Silver in 18".
Specs as follows;
10.5 +15 rear
Then 9.5 +12ish up front
They will be going on a 5 lug swap.

But I have not found any retailer that has them in the spec I want.
Any help or assistance?

Thanks in advance!


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You will find 9.5jx17-15 easier. Just run stretched 225's. It looks good and if you drip it all you need to do is adjust the little bit of camber out of the ass

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Quick question i have the s14 gas leak problems (1995)
Anyways i bought a 1997 gastank it fits bt the wiring is diffrent?
Is there a way to fix this or should jst get a 1995 gastank?
just get the correct 95 stuff. For some reason, there are lots of parts that don't fit from '95's on kouki's, but 96's do...could be OBDII related too as '95 is OBDI
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:11 AM   #16230
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What color spray paint and brand will match my s13 interior black? Please help!

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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki



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