Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Agent S14]

oh yes i did castrol synthetic gear oil, took some fluid out on sunday it was a grey color.

[Skitchen]

I'm in the process of buying new wheels, and thus doing a 5 lug conversion. My plan for this is going with the ISIS Performance conversion hubs, however, my car is equipped with ABS breaks. I have no intention of drifting or racing or doing anything other than daily driving the car so I don't necessarily want to lock out the ABS breaks if I don't have to. My question then is will I be able to put new anti-skid sensors on the ISIS hubs or are they entirely incompatible? Are there other methods of working around this? And if it comes down to it and I need to eliminate the ABS what would be the best method?

[Lompang]

Tried 3 different Clutch Slave Cylinders from Autozone/O Reily's for my 1995 Zenki and none of them fit right. I don't understand why they didn't fit no matter how hard I press them in they don't line up with the bolts to bolt them back on or just like a little bit too big.

[DJ 21o3]

Is there any recommended way to get Solid Subframe Bushings removed, or should I just buy a new subframe?

The subframe I just dropped has some cheap solid bushings installed, and I plan on pressing in SPL bushings so I can adjust to correct the roll center.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Agent S14

oh yes i did castrol synthetic gear oil, took some fluid out on sunday it was a grey color.

Call Enjuku Racing, JspecAuto, Touge Factory and ask them about rebuilding or rebuild parts for your S15 Diff. IF you have not blown big gaping holes or little cracks in the housing you're good with rebuild. What you will need is an internal center section from one of the companies I listed. OS Giken did have some issues with their stuff two years ago(buddy works for Honda, raced for Honda, had issues with the supplied racing diffs from OS Giken for about three months).
On fluids: Grey means WATER. Water means imminent failure. The lubricant must be either natural or synthetic, and if it is not mechanical locking, but VLSD, 4oz TRACTION ADDITIVE must be used(hence my reasons for using Redline Lubricants, tag bitches)

Originally Posted by DJ 21o3

Is there any recommended way to get Solid Subframe Bushings removed, or should I just buy a new subframe?
The subframe I just dropped has some cheap solid bushings installed, and I plan on pressing in SPL bushings so I can adjust to correct the roll center.

Take your weakness, toss it aside, and knock those bitches out, son! We used kroil and a little heat to remove stock bushings on a 95, and put some pretty purple solids in real easy with a little lithium grease. They slid right in. Same way to get them out, a little heat, and a little MUSCLE, boy! Eat your god damn wheeties like your momma told you!

[DJ 21o3]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Take your weakness, toss it aside, and knock those bitches out, son! We used kroil and a little heat to remove stock bushings on a 95, and put some pretty purple solids in real easy with a little lithium grease. They slid right in. Same way to get them out, a little heat, and a little MUSCLE, boy! Eat your god damn wheeties like your momma told you!

lol stock bushings are easy to remove, solid bushings on the other hand...

I took a torch and heated up the collar last night to burn off the epoxy the PO used, but we are forced to slide a punch in the middle to try and knock them out. There isn't much surface area so I feel we won't get far.

[e1_griego]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Call Enjuku Racing, JspecAuto, Touge Factory and ask them about rebuilding or rebuild parts for your S15 Diff.

He's talking about rebuilding a helical, not putting in a clutch type.

Also, the gikens in s2000s were breaking ring gears iirc, not the diffs themselves. Either way, OSG is good stuff.

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by Lompang

Tried 3 different Clutch Slave Cylinders from Autozone/O Reily's for my 1995 Zenki and none of them fit right. I don't understand why they didn't fit no matter how hard I press them in they don't line up with the bolts to bolt them back on or just like a little bit too big.

A picture says a thousand or more words.

[Gar9854]

Anyone either know where I can get the hardware that would come with an isis sr20det intake manifold?
Just bought a motorset the the PO had a brake booster delete kit.. or even the thread pitches for everything?

[Natedog240]

Hello
I am having problems with my sr20det. Its running lean at like 14.2 when idling and stays about the same when under throttle. then when I let off the throttle it goes super lean. then back to 14.2.
The radiator is running hot on the top. and its a brand new one with new fluids.
I was thinking it could be the CTS sensor but not sure why its running lean
the car has about -20 vacuum when idling.

Any help would be amazing

[corkscrew]

Hey, stupid question. I'm a bit color blind and need to change springs in my tial BOV as it's staying wide open at idle. Which color spring is this? "Unpainted" "Grey"???

[PoorMans180SX]

^Yessir it is.

[corkscrew]

Haha thanks dude. Just wanted to double check

[S14jake]

Originally Posted by S14jake

S13 sr, stock with exception of front mount.

Idles, boosts and holds boost fine and performs normal with any driving throughout rev range EXCEPT over 4k rpm under load it falls completely on its face.

Starts bucking hard and cutting out. Every once in awhile I'll get a backfire on decelerating.

Any ideas?

FIXED, i think.

Turned out to be a boost leak. Upon further inspection I found damage and a small hole on the back of the intercooler (maybe a rock?) I patched it for now and it seems to be running normal.

Strange, I've never seen a boost leak become apparent at only certain rpms.

Learn something new everyday.

[trent987]

i have been noticing that every once and a while my rear defrost button will light up while braking any idea why?

[sidewayzzenki]

What's up guys. So my car has been idling weird lately like my buddys civic ha. Every now and then it will go up past 1.5k rpms and then drop back down a little below 1k rpms. But today something weird happened which im not sure would be related to it or not. I would turn on the car but almost immediately after it turned off. Happend twice on the third I gave it a little gas and and it stayed on. Hours later i tried again and when I turned it i felt as if when the rpms shot it it dropped down just as dast and turned off. I have a stock KA Kouki a stage 2 clutch and a 11lbs. flywheel. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

[S14jake]

Originally Posted by sidewayzzenki

What's up guys. So my car has been idling weird lately like my buddys civic ha. Every now and then it will go up past 1.5k rpms and then drop back down a little below 1k rpms. But today something weird happened which im not sure would be related to it or not. I would turn on the car but almost immediately after it turned off. Happend twice on the third I gave it a little gas and and it stayed on. Hours later i tried again and when I turned it i felt as if when the rpms shot it it dropped down just as dast and turned off. I have a stock KA Kouki a stage 2 clutch and a 11lbs. flywheel. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

I'm having trouble following....but maybe vacuum leak. Check all the vacuum lines on the intake manifold.

[94_240sx]

Originally Posted by Lompang

Tried 3 different Clutch Slave Cylinders from Autozone/O Reily's for my 1995 Zenki and none of them fit right. I don't understand why they didn't fit no matter how hard I press them in they don't line up with the bolts to bolt them back on or just like a little bit too big.

Well, new one from Nissan is about $40. I think you just buy one from a dealership and done with it.

[94_240sx]

I'm trying to find a power source of 12V inside of engine room near the battery on S13. I got a pair of Canadian daytime running lights and I want to turn them on when the car starts and turn them off when ignition is off. Make sense? Well, I don't know electrical stuff well and all I know is from cigarette lighter inside of the car and I don't want to run wires all the way from there. I searched, but most people hooked them up to parking lights. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by Natedog240

Hello
I am having problems with my sr20det. Its running lean at like 14.2 when idling and stays about the same when under throttle. then when I let off the throttle it goes super lean. then back to 14.2.
The radiator is running hot on the top. and its a brand new one with new fluids.
I was thinking it could be the CTS sensor but not sure why its running lean
the car has about -20 vacuum when idling.

Any help would be amazing

14.2 afr is not lean at idle or light throttle.

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

but VLSD, 4oz TRACTION ADDITIVE must be used(hence my reasons for using Redline Lubricants, tag bitches)

vlsd is a sealed unit and does not require lsd additive.

[Natedog240]

thanks.
do you know what would be causing it to run hot on the top of the radiator?
and what would cuz it to get super lean when I let off the throttle it jumps it like 20.0?

[Natedog240]

Originally Posted by inopsey

14.2 afr is not lean at idle or light throttle.

thanks.
do you know what would be causing it to run hot on the top of the radiator? like super hot.

and what would cuz it to get super lean when I let off the throttle it jumps it like 20.0?

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by Lompang

Tried 3 different Clutch Slave Cylinders from Autozone/O Reily's for my 1995 Zenki and none of them fit right. I don't understand why they didn't fit no matter how hard I press them in they don't line up with the bolts to bolt them back on or just like a little bit too big.

I just got mine on ebay. I forget the brand but it was a pretty well known one. It was cheaper than getting it from the local parts store and it lined up perfectly.

[89hatchman]

Originally Posted by Natedog240

thanks.
do you know what would be causing it to run hot on the top of the radiator? like super hot.

and what would cuz it to get super lean when I let off the throttle it jumps it like 20.0?

let off the throttle all the way? Could it be that the motor is no longer dumping fuel in and it's just air? Mine leans out a bit like that but I don't think it goes to 20

[e1_griego]

The injectors turn off when you let off the throttle and engine brake. Of course it goes lean.

This is the small questions thread, but damn...

[Natedog240]

Originally Posted by 89hatchman

let off the throttle all the way? Could it be that the motor is no longer dumping fuel in and it's just air? Mine leans out a bit like that but I don't think it goes to 20

yeah all the time letting off the throttle t goes super lean. I wouldn't think it would be that. I have brand new fuel lines, filter, pressure regulator, and a walbro 255.

You think it could be the TPS sensor? not getting a good connection or going bad.

[Natedog240]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

The injectors turn off when you let off the throttle and engine brake. Of course it goes lean.

This is the small questions thread, but damn...

Yeah I know but it maxes out my afr and it shouldnt go that lean.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Lompang

Tried 3 different Clutch Slave Cylinders from Autozone/O Reily's for my 1995 Zenki and none of them fit right. I don't understand why they didn't fit no matter how hard I press them in they don't line up with the bolts to bolt them back on or just like a little bit too big.

Try cracking the bleeder when you install.

Originally Posted by DJ 21o3

Is there any recommended way to get Solid Subframe Bushings removed, or should I just buy a new subframe?

The subframe I just dropped has some cheap solid bushings installed, and I plan on pressing in SPL bushings so I can adjust to correct the roll center.

Heat, a hammer, and patience. THere isn't much to 'get a hold of' per say to hammer it out but they can come out.

With that said, it also may not be worth your time or sanity when you get get a used on from craigslist/classifieds

Originally Posted by 94_240sx

I'm trying to find a power source of 12V inside of engine room near the battery on S13. I got a pair of Canadian daytime running lights and I want to turn them on when the car starts and turn them off when ignition is off. Make sense? Well, I don't know electrical stuff well and all I know is from cigarette lighter inside of the car and I don't want to run wires all the way from there. I searched, but most people hooked them up to parking lights. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Check the fuse box?

Originally Posted by Natedog240

thanks.
do you know what would be causing it to run hot on the top of the radiator? like super hot.

and what would cuz it to get super lean when I let off the throttle it jumps it like 20.0?

When you let off the throttle, and the engine has no fuel, what do you think the AFR will go to? Totally lean. Some gauges will even display 'air'.

All the radiators will be hot at the top, that's where coolant from the engine enters the radiator. Hows' teh bottom hose feel/ Warm/hard/hot? If it's cool, then your system may be working fine. What's your temp gauge say?

[e1_griego]

Of course it goes full lean. There is NO fuel.