GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[cotbu]

You know?, I thought it was understood that check timing meant with a light!
I mean timing is critical, so why wouldn't you?!

And I guess some of the published articles don't really tell you, that if you, stab the cas and as the FS states, the engine will start, but you might not be at the correct timing.

How many times have I said check timing? hmmmm! What do they do, just look at it and say timing is spot on?

[2fast4y0u]

cody - i will roll the motor over to compression on #1, line up my timing chain marks, and make sure the crank pulley is on second notch from the left.
i pull the CAS, line up the marks on it and stick it back in there? then look for what exactly? i know they gears rotate a bit but maybe its going to far.

[nismoninjagtr]

hey codyace what octane were you running when you made 410whp with the .56trim .64a/r GT2871r....

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by nismoninjagtr

hey codyace what octane were you running when you made 410whp with the .56trim .64a/r GT2871r....

Pump gas...93....come on brah, get in the game

[codyace]

Originally Posted by cotbu

You know?, I thought it was understood that check timing meant with a light!
I mean timing is critical, so why wouldn't you?!

And I guess some of the published articles don't really tell you, that if you, stab the cas and as the FS states, the engine will start, but you might not be at the correct timing.

How many times have I said check timing? hmmmm! What do they do, just look at it and say timing is spot on?

Well that's just the thing...the car won't blow up at 13/14 or 16/17 either...sure performance can be effected, but for the most part, on lower power, most people won't seen any issues. Maybe loss of power, but it's hard to say. Only so much timing you can take advantage of before it becomes harmful.

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

cody - i will roll the motor over to compression on #1, line up my timing chain marks, and make sure the crank pulley is on second notch from the left.
i pull the CAS, line up the marks on it and stick it back in there? then look for what exactly? i know they gears rotate a bit but maybe its going to far.

You have it right. Once you have the engine mechnically at TDC, you line up the two marks on the cas, and stab it in into the engine itself. one installed, the adjustment should be nearly in the middle of the range. From there if valve cover is off, the 2nd two marks should line up...but (and maybe it's me) sometimes they never will once you fully insert it. Because of this, I just make sure that after the gears fully mesh, that the distributor is right in the middle of it's 'adjustment range' and then put a light on it to verify perfect 15*

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by codyace

Well that's just the thing...the car won't blow up at 13/14 or 16/17 either...sure performance can be effected, but for the most part, on lower power, most people won't seen any issues. Maybe loss of power, but it's hard to say. Only so much timing you can take advantage of before it becomes harmful.



You have it right. Once you have the engine mechnically at TDC, you line up the two marks on the cas, and stab it in into the engine itself. one installed, the adjustment should be nearly in the middle of the range. From there if valve cover is off, the 2nd two marks should line up...but (and maybe it's me) sometimes they never will once you fully insert it. Because of this, I just make sure that after the gears fully mesh, that the distributor is right in the middle of it's 'adjustment range' and then put a light on it to verify perfect 15*

Ahem!!!!!! What is all of this distributor talk?? haha


2fast4you....I just re-inserted my CAS this weekend....as you put it in and the gears grab, the CAS rotates clockwise, toward the back of the car.

I started it off with the rightmost dot aligned with the line....and had it oriented such that the plug faced almost vertically up.

Initially, this looks wrong, because the slots don't line up with the hole for the bolts....but as it goes in and grabs, it naturally rotates clockwise....and winds up roughly in the middle of the adjustment range, like Cody said.


I did it like this without even being able to see (valve cover on) and then hit it with the gun and it was at 14*....pretty damn close

[2fast4y0u]

see when i do it as stated above, i have to rotate the cas a little bit...
also, kinda off topic of this thread but since you both are here(cody and jspeath)...il just pm you guys and leave it out of this. easier that way.

[nismoninjagtr]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

Pump gas...93....come on brah, get in the game

I was just making sure i've been planning a Gt2871r for like 2 years i gotta know what my sr can do on 93oct cause thats all we got here within 30 miles where i live lol

[2fast4y0u]

you should only tune/expect to tune with what is readily available to you. i mean, if you can afford to run c16 and buy it in advance, then do it!
c16 smells good, specially when it burns

[nismoninjagtr]

right i'd run only c16 if it were between here and work my GT2871r is on the way i'm geeked thats all

[2fast4y0u]

yeah i would run it to if i could afford $12 a gallon.
lets see, 12 gallons at $12 a gallon = $144 a fill up. hmmm. gonna stick with 93

[S13NismoStyle]

I've been following this thread for a while and figured I would post this up. Maybe I could get some answers here.

This my dyno graph from when I had my 2871r car dyno'ed about a year ago. I had lost the graph until now. I've very curious as to why the graph gets so choppy after 5.5 and why the torque dives so fast. I thought it might be timing in the tune. But to be honest, I have no clue. I checked base timing before dyno and it was spot on. There were no boostleaks or anything of the sort. Afr's were 11.3-11.6 under boost.

Made 336 hp/ 326 torque

Mods:

S13 Blacktop SR, great compression
GT2871r @ 19psi
Enthalpy tuned ECU
BC 264's
Stock Intake Mani
Silkroad tubular turbo mani
Sard 850cc
Brand new NGK Bkr7e gapped at .027
All other supporting mods.



I'm probably leaving some stuff out, but maybe you can shoot me some ideas.

Thanks

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by S13NismoStyle

I've been following this thread for a while and figured I would post this up. Maybe I could get some answers here.

This my dyno graph from when I had my 2871r car dyno'ed about a year ago. I had lost the graph until now. I've very curious as to why the graph gets so choppy after 5.5 and why the torque dives so fast. I thought it might be timing in the tune. But to be honest, I have no clue. I checked base timing before dyno and it was spot on. There were no boostleaks or anything of the sort. Afr's were 11.3-11.6 under boost.

Made 336 hp/ 326 torque

Mods:

S13 Blacktop SR, great compression
GT2871r @ 19psi
Enthalpy tuned ECU
BC 264's
Stock Intake Mani
Silkroad tubular turbo mani
Sard 850cc
Brand new NGK Bkr7e gapped at .027
All other supporting mods.



I'm probably leaving some stuff out, but maybe you can shoot me some ideas.

Thanks

Yeah something seems definitely off there.

It could maybe be the intake manifold......I went back and looked at my old dyno plot, and the torque dropped off similarly early as yours....but that was with stock intake manifold and stock cams.

With the BC 264s, you would think that maybe your "drop off point" would be later, but your torque is def dropping off pretty early....

[MandTPhotography]

Is his power numbers typical for that amount of boost on a .64AR 2871r?

I was under the impression that it should be making more power at 19lbs.

[GroundPerformance]

I agree on the last posts for that Dyno.. I made the same power on my SR on Greddy T517z, 550cc, Z32 maf, Nistune, Stock I/E manifolds and stock cams @ same boost levels.. Cams should help increase top end but this case not sure what's going on for your power is falling off way to early. It's possible to boost controller is not able to hold it or you should consider sending Scott @ Enthalpy an email for a possible re-tune. GL!

[cotbu]

You guys are forgetting the infamous flavors of the gt2871r, aka 48 and 52 trims.
power output looks like a 52trim and appears to be normal. If you had stock cams and intake and pushing about 17psi!

[S13NismoStyle]

Thanks for the all the replies.

Boost is staying solid all the way to redline and I am using the 52 trim gt2871.

My concern is not the power, but why the graph is so choppy and torque drops so fast.

I am very unfamiliar with tuning. Could there not be enough timing past 5.5k? I understand that I am using a generic rom tune for my 2871r, but if it works fine for everyone else, I wonder why my graph would look like that? I hoped that made sense.

[MandTPhotography]

Originally Posted by cotbu

You guys are forgetting the infamous flavors of the gt2871r, aka 48 and 52 trims.
power output looks like a 52trim and appears to be normal. If you had stock cams and intake and pushing about 17psi!

Just curious about my numbers.

15lbs on a a 52 trim .64AR 2871r. HKS 256/264 cams, and Power FC.

I guess I'll find out when I get this boost leak fixed, but just curious as to what I'd be looking at.

550's don't have much room left (90% Injector Duty) hence the low boost.

[previa19]

super newb haha but is the gt2871r .64 definately recommended over the S15 oem turbo?

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by MandTPhotography

Just curious about my numbers.

15lbs on a a 52 trim .64AR 2871r. HKS 256/264 cams, and Power FC.

I guess I'll find out when I get this boost leak fixed, but just curious as to what I'd be looking at.

550's don't have much room left (90% Injector Duty) hence the low boost.

Look for about 300hp, 280tq this is just an estimate!

super newb haha but is the gt2871r .64 definately recommended over the S15 oem turbo?

That's the point, price vs performance it's really not.
If your on a budget and looking for 300hp, completely skip gt28rs, gt2871r 48trim, and get the s15 turbo, or the gt2560r or the s15 spec R! lol! If your willing to go top-mount your world just gets better and a little cheaper vs the initial modification. MHO!

[MandTPhotography]

Bumping this thread.

[TFD]

Finaly finished the install of my new setup (old setup was stock S14):

GT2871R .86 (.56 trim) @ 1.2 bar = 17.8 psi
Deatschwerk 740cc
Z32 maf
3" exhaust
JWT ecu
Stock s14 sr20det block (VCT disconnected true huge rattle)

Thoughts so far:

Thing is laggy. Looks like peakboost sets in at 4800 ish rpm (haent done boostleak test and for some reason my profec type-S cant get it over 1.2 bar... the notch wont go any futher haha).

..but when it finaly kicks in it kicks good.

raced against my friends rb26 @.8 bar S13 and it was a draw. By the datascan voltage and dutycycle (4,4V & 68%) I'll guestimate a 330whp ish at the moment.

Anyway, def want to get the lag down and want more boost than 1.2 bar.
Cams and intake seems to be the next thing to get (and some dyno time ..).

[Luvs2slide]

Curious about a reccomendation...
I was told by a pretty reputable guy to run a 0.8mm Apexi MHG for my setup in order to boost a minimum of 1 bar. here's my setup (pretty common):

2871 .64
256 poncams
850cc injectors
greddy int mani
SS ex mani
PFC d-jetro
All other supporting mods (motor compression is perfect)

I see alot of people running the 1.2mm size gasket. I am just wondering why he said to run a 0.8mm MHG as opposed to 1.2??? I don't plan on decking the head or anything. Anyone have any input/guidance as to why possibly?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by TFD

Thing is laggy. Looks like peakboost sets in at 4800 ish rpm (haent done boostleak test and for some reason my profec type-S cant get it over 1.2 bar... the notch wont go any futher haha).

..but when it finaly kicks in it kicks good.

raced against my friends rb26 @.8 bar S13 and it was a draw. By the datascan voltage and dutycycle (4,4V & 68%) I'll guestimate a 330whp ish at the moment.

Anyway, def want to get the lag down and want more boost than 1.2 bar.
Cams and intake seems to be the next thing to get (and some dyno time ..).

Is your base timing set correctly? he .86 is marginally laggy, but not that late...

Originally Posted by Luvs2slide

Curious about a reccomendation...
I was told by a pretty reputable guy to run a 0.8mm Apexi MHG for my setup in order to boost a minimum of 1 bar. here's my setup (pretty common):
...
I see alot of people running the 1.2mm size gasket. I am just wondering why he said to run a 0.8mm MHG as opposed to 1.2??? I don't plan on decking the head or anything. Anyone have any input/guidance as to why possibly?

Ultimately speaking, it's not going to make any measureable (this side of a .X of displacemtn) difference. So long as your tune is on, you've got a MLS HG, and studs, you'll be set.

[Luvs2slide]

Originally Posted by codyace

Ultimately speaking, it's not going to make any measureable (this side of a .X of displacemtn) difference. So long as your tune is on, you've got a MLS HG, and studs, you'll be set.

Ok, sweet. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I will be installing some ARP studs as well.

[TFD]

@Cody: Exactly my thought. But have to do the basic tests this week and see what happens. Lag is not bad, but a bit more respons would be nice.

[Luvs2slide]

Is it safe to boost 1 bar on the 2871 without a MHG?

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by Luvs2slide

Is it safe to boost 1 bar on the 2871 without a MHG?

I have a question for you. Why would a MHG make it safe to run 1bar?
There is a list of yes and no's to your question, for example.
No, if you're using 87oct and 370cc's!
Yes, if you are already running 13.6psi and a 2871r!
No, if you don't have a gauge that reads in bar!

[Luvs2slide]

Originally Posted by cotbu

I have a question for you. Why would a MHG make it safe to run 1bar?
There is a list of yes and no's to your question, for example.
No, if you're using 87oct and 370cc's!
Yes, if you are already running 13.6psi and a 2871r!
No, if you don't have a gauge that reads in bar!

Hah. I went to try and get my car tuned at a local Japanese place here and these said without a MHG, they wouldn't touch my car. They don't want something to happen and then me give a bad rep to them.

Thanks though!

[cotbu]

They must be selling the "MAKE MY ENGINE BULLETPROOF", MHG kits