Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[mechanicalmoron]

I just started overheating today.

How do I tell if it's my water pump or thermostat?

I have a duralast thermostat - I replaced it when the last one failed open - they're designed to fail open, but how often do they jam closed instead?

222k on the clock, original pump I believe.

Should I go ahead and replace the pump? I'd boil the thermostat, but I don't have RTV, and without a car, getting to the auto parts store is a bit more of a chore... what's the odds that it's either?

It doesn't overheat immediately, it sort of wants to pretend that the gauge will stay at half, but then starts going up again. It wouldn't make it more than a few miles, even while moving. The radiator's absolutely taking hot water and holding pressure. VERY hot water, and a LOT of pressure....

Do you start overheating before your pump's really spraying coolant? And will it hold pressure while the pump's weeping? It feels like this should be the thermostat, but it's only 2 years old...

[RalliartRsX]

Does anyone know what the size of the second bung (not the drain plug) on the Greddy oil Pan??

Mine is leaking and I am looking for a proper plug for it!

Thanks!

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

I just started overheating today.

How do I tell if it's my water pump or thermostat?

I have a duralast thermostat - I replaced it when the last one failed open - they're designed to fail open, but how often do they jam closed instead?

222k on the clock, original pump I believe.

Should I go ahead and replace the pump? I'd boil the thermostat, but I don't have RTV, and without a car, getting to the auto parts store is a bit more of a chore... what's the odds that it's either?

It doesn't overheat immediately, it sort of wants to pretend that the gauge will stay at half, but then starts going up again. It wouldn't make it more than a few miles, even while moving. The radiator's absolutely taking hot water and holding pressure. VERY hot water, and a LOT of pressure....

Do you start overheating before your pump's really spraying coolant? And will it hold pressure while the pump's weeping? It feels like this should be the thermostat, but it's only 2 years old...

Sounds like the pump if you are getting hot water in the radiator.

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Does anyone know what the size of the second bung (not the drain plug) on the Greddy oil Pan??

Mine is leaking and I am looking for a proper plug for it!

Thanks!

The little one for a temp sensor? 1/4BSPT

Sent from my iFad using Crapatalk

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Sounds like the pump if you are getting hot water in the radiator.



The little one for a temp sensor? 1/4BSPT

Sent from my iFad using Crapatalk

The radiator was hot as hell (throwing water on the radiator would boil it instantly and violently), but it will flow a LITTLE all the time, right? I mean it's always in the same circuit.

Once it cooled down I took a look under the cap. There was no visible flow (you know how if you rev while changing coolant, you'll see it gush to the right - nothing like that, at all). Will a pump fail with no external sign or noise, and move NO water?

[David48]

I have a couple new issues with my Redtop SR20det. Completely stock injectors/maf/ecu etc. Only mods are 3" exhaust and fmic

Out of no where it just recently began running super rich. Car smells like gas 24/7. AEM wideband is reading 10.0 at WOT and mid 12s cruising. It also feels pretty slow. Fuel pressure is around 45-50psi cruising at 60psi WOT. I have no idea what would cause this? I'm starting to get like 260-280 miles to a tank with a lot of highway driving.

Second issue came about a few days before. My oil pressure is higher than normal. At 3K RPM and up my gauge stays at 100psi+. Idle is around 45 psi, and cruising around 2K RPM puts me around 60-80psi. I run Mobil 1 full syn 10w-30 oil. I'm a little over 3k miles on the rebuild. It rodknocked and I had the crank machined, and did new main and rod bearings. I'm a little under 3k miles on this oil change so hopefully this problem will go away after that. But I'd appreciate any help on this

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by David48

I have a couple new issues with my Redtop SR20det. Completely stock injectors/maf/ecu etc. Only mods are 3" exhaust and fmic

Out of no where it just recently began running super rich. Car smells like gas 24/7. AEM wideband is reading 10.0 at WOT and mid 12s cruising. It also feels pretty slow. Fuel pressure is around 45-50psi cruising at 60psi WOT. I have no idea what would cause this? I'm starting to get like 260-280 miles to a tank with a lot of highway driving.

dirty MAF or boost leak... if you leak boost past the turbo you run rich. if your MAF is dirty it can do all sorts of stupid shit to the ECU. get some B12 and Qtips out, clean your MAF something fierce. check ALL of your couplers and tbolt clamps, most people cheap out and use crappy thin couplers and cheapy tbolt clamps... if this is the case in your car, i highly recommend upgrading to a trusted brand like HPS. i changed out ALL of my tbolt clamps and couples a few years back, helped SOOOOOOOO much!

also a dirty air filter can cause stupid shit to happen as well, if youre running an autozone brand... ditch it and buy a K&N Air Filter

[David48]

I just remembered that I very lightly bumped into a parking block and it got much worse after that. My guess is shitty couplers on the fmic. I'm more worried about the oil pressure now. I've been searching and can't find anything on why it would happen.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

The radiator was hot as hell (throwing water on the radiator would boil it instantly and violently), but it will flow a LITTLE all the time, right? I mean it's always in the same circuit.

Once it cooled down I took a look under the cap. There was no visible flow (you know how if you rev while changing coolant, you'll see it gush to the right - nothing like that, at all). Will a pump fail with no external sign or noise, and move NO water?

It's quite easy for a pump blades to rot away with improper coolant.

[acslater9]

This is a question about "if I should get it".


I've witnessed one of the most horrible mechanical car in my life, and by that I mean the engine was completely insane. Let me explain, I went to go see a car at a dealership (two tone coupe). So I look at the engine and what I see is one of the worst hack jobs ever. They used a bag to cover the a/c hose, they had a bottle of sprite holding it up as the air filter. They had those white tubes they use for pools as the air intake.

Completely "ghetto", that engine bay was hacked to the max. Yet, the car turned on and ran!! I have no idea how they did that but I was amazed and sad at the same time. The poor two tone was just sitting looking like shit. On the plus side it has mint interior, dash is not cracked, and overall the body is mint. Also has factory 5 speed.

Anyways I was wondering if you guys would buy it. Although the car runs, the engine is a complete hack job. He's looking for $1800, I already dropped the price, he originally wanted $2300 which I laughed at. Let me know if you guys would even consider this car, thanks

[juhd]

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=169993
^^^ i wanna do this to my setup but use the kouki oem turn signals as both instead. will the same parts and procedure be the same? minus the position lights tho. thanks

[David48]

Originally Posted by acslater9

This is a question about "if I should get it".


I've witnessed one of the most horrible mechanical car in my life, and by that I mean the engine was completely insane. Let me explain, I went to go see a car at a dealership (two tone coupe). So I look at the engine and what I see is one of the worst hack jobs ever. They used a bag to cover the a/c hose, they had a bottle of sprite holding it up as the air filter. They had those white tubes they use for pools as the air intake.

Completely "ghetto", that engine bay was hacked to the max. Yet, the car turned on and ran!! I have no idea how they did that but I was amazed and sad at the same time. The poor two tone was just sitting looking like shit. On the plus side it has mint interior, dash is not cracked, and overall the body is mint. Also has factory 5 speed.

Anyways I was wondering if you guys would buy it. Although the car runs, the engine is a complete hack job. He's looking for $1800, I already dropped the price, he originally wanted $2300 which I laughed at. Let me know if you guys would even consider this car, thanks

Where's this at? If it's close by me I'll check it out. I don't have anywhere near that much so you don't have to worry about me buying it from under you haha

[David48]

Originally Posted by David48

I have a couple new issues with my Redtop SR20det. Completely stock injectors/maf/ecu etc. Only mods are 3" exhaust and fmic

Out of no where it just recently began running super rich. Car smells like gas 24/7. AEM wideband is reading 10.0 at WOT and mid 12s cruising. It also feels pretty slow. Fuel pressure is around 45-50psi cruising at 60psi WOT. I have no idea what would cause this? I'm starting to get like 260-280 miles to a tank with a lot of highway driving.

Second issue came about a few days before. My oil pressure is higher than normal. At 3K RPM and up my gauge stays at 100psi+. Idle is around 45 psi, and cruising around 2K RPM puts me around 60-80psi. I run Mobil 1 full syn 10w-30 oil. I'm a little over 3k miles on the rebuild. It rodknocked and I had the crank machined, and did new main and rod bearings. I'm a little under 3k miles on this oil change so hopefully this problem will go away after that. But I'd appreciate any help on this

Turns out my AFR issue was a ripped coupler. Gonna change the oil and filter tomorrow so hopefully the oil psi issue will be solved

[lamgee]

good place to get rb25det?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

This is a question about "if I should get it".


I've witnessed one of the most horrible mechanical car in my life, and by that I mean the engine was completely insane. Let me explain, I went to go see a car at a dealership (two tone coupe). So I look at the engine and what I see is one of the worst hack jobs ever. They used a bag to cover the a/c hose, they had a bottle of sprite holding it up as the air filter. They had those white tubes they use for pools as the air intake.

Completely "ghetto", that engine bay was hacked to the max. Yet, the car turned on and ran!! I have no idea how they did that but I was amazed and sad at the same time. The poor two tone was just sitting looking like shit. On the plus side it has mint interior, dash is not cracked, and overall the body is mint. Also has factory 5 speed.

Anyways I was wondering if you guys would buy it. Although the car runs, the engine is a complete hack job. He's looking for $1800, I already dropped the price, he originally wanted $2300 which I laughed at. Let me know if you guys would even consider this car, thanks

I would jump on it for $1500 based totally on all the 'waddafuk' issues. You KNOW the former owner was ghetto as hell when doing anything with the car so even daily/monthly maintenance can be questioned as to the car just coming to a dead stop on the way home

Edit, PLEASE post some pics of this shit!

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by David48

Where's this at? If it's close by me I'll check it out. I don't have anywhere near that much so you don't have to worry about me buying it from under you haha

David, it's in Tampa. I live in Lakeland and decided to check the car out. The address of the dealership is 7102 N Florida Ave. David just be prepared with a camera, please lol. Also if you go today can you verify that it's a sprite bottle? Because it sure looked like one to me.


@Redline I wish I was prepared! I wanted to take a picture it's just my phone died minutes before looking at the car.

Though I told him I will be back Saturday, apparently some other guy offered him $2000 for it, so yeah. I'll keep you guys updated and hopefully David has a chance today.

[David48]

Oh I think I saw it posted somewhere. Black bumper? I'll try to check it out today. I'll also low ball the shit out of him and point out everything wrong with it. Maybe he'll be more willing to deal when you go by

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by David48

Oh I think I saw it posted somewhere. Black bumper? I'll try to check it out today. I'll also low ball the shit out of him and point out everything wrong with it. Maybe he'll be more willing to deal when you go by

Yup, by the way that black bumper is type X. I'm guessing its fiberglass though.


Sounds good man. Take pictures if you can so you can show Redline.

[Bwheelest]

i am looking for a place that does roll cages in SOCAL. i have a RHD 180sx with an ls swap and its time to get it caged. can anyone help me out and tell me where there is a close shop that will do a roll cage?... thanks

[dave123thomas]

What exactly is this under the dash. It makes a weird noise the whole time ImageUploadedByTapatalk1410539592.473140.jpg


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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Yup, by the way that black bumper is type X. I'm guessing its fiberglass though.


Sounds good man. Take pictures if you can so you can show Redline.

Hey, didn't HIPHOPHIPPO totally DIY his hatch. He's FROM THAT Area. Ya'all don't think he got tired and sold it do ya?

Look under the valve cover for a ghetto repair on a lifter, that'll be the 'tell'


HVAC intake, sprite bottle catch, man, I gotta see this! I mean really, fab is kinda easy for lots of stuff, anyone who asks can get help building stuff from lips to intake to exhaust and have it look good if they just ask someone who knows what they are doing

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Hey, didn't HIPHOPHIPPO totally DIY his hatch. He's FROM THAT Area. Ya'all don't think he got tired and sold it do ya?

Look under the valve cover for a ghetto repair on a lifter, that'll be the 'tell'


HVAC intake, sprite bottle catch, man, I gotta see this! I mean really, fab is kinda easy for lots of stuff, anyone who asks can get help building stuff from lips to intake to exhaust and have it look good if they just ask someone who knows what they are doing

Yeah I know when I saw it I was shocked. I'm pretty sure it has other things but I forgot.

I got him to go down to $1600. He told me since it's a dealer I was going to have to pay for taxes and title so the price rose to $1787. Sounds like a good deal?

[David48]

Dang I was gonna check it out but didn't have any time. If you're crazy about a two tone then yeah that's a good price. They're getting really hard to find and the body is pretty straight from the pictures I've seen. It's nothing a motor swap can't fix

[juhd]

Originally Posted by Bwheelest

i am looking for a place that does roll cages in SOCAL. i have a RHD 180sx with an ls swap and its time to get it caged. can anyone help me out and tell me where there is a close shop that will do a roll cage?... thanks

Theres Powered by Max down in Escondido and Street Faction in Long Beach

[corkscrew]

Really fucking dumb question. When an s13 rear bash bar with jacking point is installed...do you need to remove the bumper to get to the jacking point? Or can it be reached with the bumper still on

[2slow2go]

Can someone identify these brakes for me? What US car can I buy rotors to fit these brakes to install into my s13?

Thanksuploadfromtaptalk1410660569826.jpguploadfromtaptalk1410660585404.jpg

[Judeasaurus]

So I recently bought a 180sx bumper for my chuki s13 and I want to know what components to get.

So far I purchased:
-180sx Bumper Extensions
-180sx Bumper Extension Brackets
-Bumper Upper Retainer

Now I am wondering if I need the Stiffners, spacers, upper bracket, side retainer, reinforcement, and absorber.

Thanks~

[acslater9]

Buying the two tone, going to be posting up pictures tomorrow!

[Konster]

Having the weirdest problem.

So I'm driving my 240sx and I decide to roll the window down, I hit the switch and the car just starts to slow down. When I release it, everything is good again.

Anyone has/had a similar issue?

[StuckeyOG]

I'm trying to upgrade my tie rods and ends and was interested in the SPL outer tie rod ends. It says to pair them with OEM Z32 inner tie rods or Z33 Tein inner tie rods.

What I'm confused about is do I only need to buy the Z33 inners and no outers? And will it all fit like stock on my base model S14's stock knuckles?

Also, the Tein Inner/Outer Tie Rod package may be a possibility for me but what tie rod ends do I use with them?

[silviaGuyLBC]

rubbed through some of my wires driverside last time i went sliding. fixed um now car wont hold charge, alternator stil works . Happend shortly after my gauge cluster went out, have lights but no tacs, any ideas ??