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Old 12-13-2014, 12:20 PM   #17641
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i ment stock internals, running a rom tune z32 maf 750cc injectors etc. Only thing im worried about is the headgasket. But i have a metal one sitting on the shelf if it blows.

edit: afr is perfect at wot it just loses boost. so im thinking the turbo cant make enough boost.
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:33 PM   #17642
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KK, just making sure.

Head gasket will be fine if the tune is good. I went 4 years at 350whp with stock everything. Just rebuilt the motor and upgraded but the head gasket was still totally fine.
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:57 PM   #17643
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i ment stock internals, running a rom tune z32 maf 750cc injectors etc. Only thing im worried about is the headgasket. But i have a metal one sitting on the shelf if it blows.

edit: afr is perfect at wot it just loses boost. so im thinking the turbo cant make enough boost.
outside of the OEM headgasket, OEM bottom end is good until around 450-500 crank HP... you need a DAMN good to tune to achieve this though. youre never going to get near that point with an S15 turbo though, its too small.

if you are tapering back to 14psi, its time for a few new things. either a bigger or more efficient turbo and a head build. the S15 turbo is a GREAT upgrade over the baby dick red/blacktop T25, but past 15psi it really does have its limits! its still a tiny turbo compared to a lot of whats out there and if you want to start making 350+whp, then you will need to with a bigger snail. T3/T4 turbos with cams on an SR work VERY well and so do GT30Rs (the smaller trim versions spool much faster). buddy of mine ran a T3/T4 on his SR in his sileighty. One of my best friends tuned his car for him with a PowerFC DJetro on 10-12psi of boost and he made 362whp... it wasnt really all too different to drive from mine at the time (my last 240 put down 308 to the wheels on an S14 turbo and PowerFC DJetro)... spool was damn near the same but the turbo didnt crap out at top end like the T28 does in 3rd-5th gear... it would just continue to pull hard to 7500rpms!
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:14 PM   #17644
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thanks you two, think im going to set it back to 14 psi and let it hold there. I was hoping for 300 but it doesnt feel like its there. Mabye a turbo upgrade will be in my future haha

any idea which o2 i should be using? I have a enthalpy tune on my j4 ecu and i figured id try to get a response here before i email him.
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:15 PM   #17645
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I bought a distribution block for my battery relocation and I think I need more ports. It had a 1 input (1/0 gauge) and two outputs (4 gauge). But I think I need another input port correct? One for the original positive cable and one for the cable leading to the trunk while the two 4 gauge inputs are for the alternator and starter (which is originally connected to that small red thing).
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:25 PM   #17646
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Or 3-4 on the input side? I feel like I'm right but I've seen so many different types of distribution blocks ran so I want to make sure I'm 90% correct.
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:35 PM   #17647
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j4 uses the fat o2, like the rest of the SR outside of the redtop.
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:12 PM   #17648
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Are all of these "low mount" wings custom made?
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:47 PM   #17649
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thanks you two, think im going to set it back to 14 psi and let it hold there. I was hoping for 300 but it doesnt feel like its there. Mabye a turbo upgrade will be in my future haha

any idea which o2 i should be using? I have a enthalpy tune on my j4 ecu and i figured id try to get a response here before i email him.
again, i made around 310whp on my last SR with a stock S14 T28. 325-335whp is about the most youre going to get out of an OEM T28. my SR was stock head and stock block, 16psi on a T28 turbo, stock wastegate, hallman boost controller, powerFC DJetro, 1200cc top feed injectors, top feed fuel rail, Hybrid (brand) FMIC kit, Greddy TypeS BOV (old pink one), E85 gas, ACT HD Clutch kit and a few other little knick knacks

final numbers were 268rwhp on a MUSTANG DYNO (which is about 305-310 on a dynojet as there is a 12%-15% output difference between the two).
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:43 PM   #17650
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e85 is the reason there.
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:01 PM   #17651
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How much does KA24DE weight dry and with intake manifold, exhaust manifold etc.. ?
I hope it isn't more than 20% lighter than 2JZ-GTE.. :P
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:54 AM   #17652
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How much does KA24DE weight dry and with intake manifold, exhaust manifold etc.. ?
I hope it isn't more than 20% lighter than 2JZ-GTE.. :P
100kgs total
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Old 12-18-2014, 02:28 AM   #17653
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My propeller shaft bolts keep coming loose from my differential, any reason why? It's hard to fit a torque wrench or ratchet down there only an open ended wrench will fit barely. Any easy way to tighten the bolts?
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:11 AM   #17654
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My propeller shaft bolts keep coming loose from my differential, any reason why? It's hard to fit a torque wrench or ratchet down there only an open ended wrench will fit barely. Any easy way to tighten the bolts?
Sissy arms. Throw another wrench on the end of the one you're using to tighten them and you should be able to get some more torque on em.
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Old 12-19-2014, 07:17 AM   #17655
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Sissy arms. Throw another wrench on the end of the one you're using to tighten them and you should be able to get some more torque on em.
Looks like you'll not be having any mayonnaise...


Green Loctite is your friend, however, you must be able to torque the bolts to at least firm contact +1/4 turn. If you do not possess the ability, I would suggest finding someone who does and requesting assistance in the form of Big Arms Buddy, or maybe Silvia Strength Mechanic
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:25 AM   #17656
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My propeller shaft bolts keep coming loose from my differential, any reason why? It's hard to fit a torque wrench or ratchet down there only an open ended wrench will fit barely. Any easy way to tighten the bolts?
You are using the washers?
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Old 12-19-2014, 02:03 PM   #17657
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You are using the washers?
what ^ she said
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Old 12-20-2014, 01:07 AM   #17658
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You are using the washers?
Bolts that were in there already only had a fastener with just a nut torqued. I see the original Nissan bolts use a fastener with a flange nut only unless there is a washer. Either way was no washer in the bolts originally so I'll be doing that
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Old 12-20-2014, 07:08 AM   #17659
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Quote:
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Bolts that were in there already only had a fastener with just a nut torqued. I see the original Nissan bolts use a fastener with a flange nut only unless there is a washer. Either way was no washer in the bolts originally so I'll be doing that
Oem nuts don't have a flange. They do have washers though. I've never had this problem so you must be doing something wrong
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Old 12-20-2014, 08:01 PM   #17660
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i dont have a lot of mechanical knowledge so bear with me lol. so i want to buy a car but it doesnt get any spark.it cranks, just no spark. seller said the positive terminal touched ground. aside from the coilpacks or anything that attributes to spark, could anything else be messed up as well? like literally anything ending up with me replacing a bunch of stuff.
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:02 PM   #17661
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I have a 95 240sx and recently found an oil leak right above where the drive shaft and differential meet (on the body) but not sure what the source of the leak is. Any help will be appreciated. The pic shows what I think is the source.

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Old 12-21-2014, 08:40 AM   #17662
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i dont have a lot of mechanical knowledge so bear with me lol. so i want to buy a car but it doesnt get any spark.it cranks, just no spark. seller said the positive terminal touched ground. aside from the coilpacks or anything that attributes to spark, could anything else be messed up as well? like literally anything ending up with me replacing a bunch of stuff.
Imo. Unless it's priced for a great deal.Meaning even with the cost of having it repaired you still payed considerably less then what you could sell it for(even if you do wish to keep it) then sure, go for it.
But if I were you, I would stay away since you are not mechanically savy. If it isn't running & driving, you COULD be walking into a host of problems that gonna cost you alot more $$ & time then it's worth.
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:43 AM   #17663
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I have a 95 240sx and recently found an oil leak right above where the drive shaft and differential meet (on the body) but not sure what the source of the leak is. Any help will be appreciated. The pic shows what I think is the source.
Weird.... Is there a leak somewhere forward of that where passing air could be running it down the chassis? :what:
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:29 AM   #17664
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Weird.... Is there a leak somewhere forward of that where passing air could be running it down the chassis? :what:
I did'nt see any other leaks. I did some research and thought it was the breather on the diff but the drive shaft and diff are clean with no residue.

I saw the oil build up on the ebrake cable and traced it back up to the chassis right up top in the pic shown. I will clean it up and keep checking to verify.
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Old 12-21-2014, 10:49 AM   #17665
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clean everything off, spray tracing powder where you think it's leaking from and then check it again in a week or 2
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Old 12-21-2014, 04:43 PM   #17666
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Hey guys! after a few years off from the S chassis im back in action with a 98 s14 manual, 137k miles clean title pretty much stock other than coils brakes and little stuff like that. Before I really get the ball going I have a check engine light on and I need to smog this puppy. the previous owner said it was the o2 sensor. However I cant get the ecu to flash a code nor can pep boys with their snap on reader.. any suggestions? is it common to have em through a code and not be able to read it?
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:05 AM   #17667
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Can I take the fabric off of my Recaro and run it through a washing machine? I do not want to damage or shrink the fabric. Thanks.
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:15 PM   #17668
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Im well aware that Nissan offered an OEM front upper strut bar for the S13. Though, my question is, did they offer a rear upper strut bar as well?
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Old 12-23-2014, 06:34 AM   #17669
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Im well aware that Nissan offered an OEM front upper strut bar for the S13. Though, my question is, did they offer a rear upper strut bar as well?
From my research, NISMO had front, rear, and differential bars for all versions. From what I have seen, it appears that all but the differential bar have been discontinued. I have been hunting for NISMO version bars so I can turn my '96 into a modified version of the 270R, but use kouki sides(I hate the ones that go up over the panels), and either RB or NISMO reps along with a DMAX hood and spoiler. I'm already looking for an SR/Trans out of a Pilot(280hp stock)
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:14 PM   #17670
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Both Zenki's and Kouki's have the same trunk lock, correct?
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