Broadfield Build... LS3 V8 Time and Aero - Page 59 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Broadfield · 02-01-2013, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeySand

That linked me back to this page, maybe that's what you intended it to do. Either way, what I am referring to is circled in the picture below, I am assuming its running to the port on the opposite cylinder head then onto the coolant overflow/fill tank to a -6 male end. Did you have these fabricated or where they bought from a supplier? Thank you in advance.

Yep, I posted the link because in the 2nd sentence I described what they are... KRC LS steam port adapters.

MikeySand · 02-01-2013, 04:11 PM

Definitely overlooked that part, thank you for spoon feeding me though.

Broadfield · 02-01-2013, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeySand

Definitely overlooked that part, thank you for spoon feeding me though.

No problem man... and now that I think about it, I have a brand new unopened set I would sell you.

MikeySand · 02-01-2013, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

No problem man... and now that I think about it, I have a brand new unopened set I would sell you.

Well if thats the case consider them sold. I need to make a coolant overflow tank for my car, similar to how you have yours set up, once I get a radiator so these would be useful to have as well.

gootchanater1324 · 02-05-2013, 09:57 AM

Miss this thing haha I need to stop by again soon!

Broadfield · 02-17-2013, 09:30 PM

I know it's going to seem like I'm lying here, but I had some spare time to work on the car today

I'm working on the air conditioning setup at the moment:

My quest for a clean tidy engine bay has led me to doing a "tucked" air conditioning setup. I don't really like the idea of lines going everywhere in the bay. So I'm going to simplify it by running the lines out of the compressor directly to some custom bulkheads on the firewall. I can run the lines down the same path as my heater hoses alongside the block. Typically the firewall fittings are at each end of a giant loop that takes place in the engine bay. I will essentially relocate that loop to behind the dash and down the inside upper portion of the passenger fender. Then the dryer and condenser will be up front out of site behind the bumper.

I want to use all XRP air conditioning hose and fittings. Which means I have to convert everything over to o-ring pilot fittings. Since I bought an aftermarket dryer and condenser, I had the choice to get them with o-ring pilot ports... so those were no big deal. However, I had to figure out what to do with the compressor, evaporator and the ports at the firewall. I'm still in the middle of all of this, but I'll show you my progress so far.

First thing was to figure out how to modify the evaporator to work in the "tucked" setup. As it sits from the factory, the evaporator hard lines come out through the firewall. These have to go bye-bye since I'm going to use the firewall locations for my compressor lines. Which means that the connections for the evaporator lines will now need to be done inside the car instead of at the firewall. So I cracked the evaporator plastic housing open to see what I was up against. The evaporator core sits in the middle of the housing as seen below. You can also see where the hard lines exit the housing and normally would protrude through the firewall:

As luck would have it, the evaporator is square. I rotated the evaporator core, inside the housing 90 degrees, so that the hard lines would now point down over the passenger foot well. This would allow me to do my connections inside the car and leave me room on the inside of the firewall for some custom bulkheads. I cut off the plastic protrusions that held the OEM hard lines in place:

Housing back together... I will simply seal over that figure 8 shaped hole with some thin ABS plastic and epoxy:

I cut the hard lines down so that the new 90 degree fittings would hug the housing as close as possible. As mentioned, these are going to exit right above the passenger's feet. So I don' want them hanging down where they are going to get kicked. Had some aluminum male o-ring pilot fittings welded on:

I hogged out an area in the bottom of the housing for these to exit:

Some closed cell foam on the inside around the fittings and some machined 90 degree o-ring pilot fittings... this part is complete:

Test fit back in the car... they really don't hang down lower than the surrounding items:

Second order of business are the bulkheads for the compressor lines. It will be a o-ring pilot #10 and a #8 on the firewall. Unfortunately the two holes on the firewall are huge. Had I known I was going to do a tucked setup, I would have welded those closed and made new smaller holes for a pre-made bulkhead. Oh well, time to do something slightly custom and make it work. I bought one of the aforementioned bulkheads from Vintage Air just so I could use the male-to-male fittings. This is what they look like once pulled off the Vintage Air firewall plate:

I figured I would do somewhat of the same setup I did for my heater hose bulkheads... custom machined aluminum plates that would cover the OEM holes and house the male fittings. I came up with these:

Coated with the some black epoxy paint:

Mounted in the car:

This is what I'm looking at inside the cabin:

I now need to get all of the XRP AC hoses and fittings ordered up so I can start mocking everything up. I also need to buy a CTS-V compressor. I have both a C5 and C6 compressor and neither one of those are going to work. The C6 compressor fittings exit out the side into the frame rail. There's not enough clearance by a long shot. The C5 compressor fittings exit out the back. But by the time I add a compressor o-ring pilot adaptor block, the fittings will hit the #2 primary on the header. The CTS-V compressor angles the fittings out the side and angled up.. perfect!... I think!?!?! Once I have the compressor squared away, I can make the two compressor lines for the bay, the lines inside the cabin and the lines down the fender to the front of the car.

Beejis60 · 02-17-2013, 09:50 PM

At first glance, I thought those were swagelok fittings. Either way, secksy man!

Hoffman5982 · 02-17-2013, 10:01 PM

your paint looks like powdercoat. Also, what's the purpose of the rubber mat on the inside around the bulkhead connectors?

Mr.Green · 02-17-2013, 10:40 PM

Bravo! I have been reading this thread for quite some time and lurking around. I figured it was time to join up on this site. Its nice to see dedication and care go into the fine details. It's nice to know there are other people out there with the same OCD as me. Where perfect just is the only way to do something. Where there is no such thing as cutting corners. I look forward to seeing more of this car as you progress. Well Done. SUBSCRIBED.

Turbozx · 02-18-2013, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I also need to buy a CTS-V compressor. I have both a C5 and C6 compressor and neither one of those are going to work. The C6 compressor fittings exit out the side into the frame rail. There's not enough clearance by a long shot. The C5 compressor fittings exit out the back. But by the time I add a compressor o-ring pilot adaptor block, the fittings will hit the #2 primary on the header. The CTS-V compressor angles the fittings out the side and angled up.. perfect!... I think!?!?! Once I have the compressor squared away, I can make the two compressor lines for the bay, the lines inside the cabin and the lines down the fender to the front of the car.

There might be different CTS-V compressors as both mine and PSTL-Pete's exit directly into the frame rail too. See the picture below or one in Pete's build thread. The guys are Fueled Racing who made up my AC lines noted that my CTS-V set up seemed a bit different from previous ones that they had based their kit on.

Untitled by gnakata2007, on Flickr
Here is a pic of the lines that Fueled Racing made for my set up.

Untitled by gnakata2007, on Flickr

Edit: my mistake Toby - I see that the slight angle upwards is what it seems what you are looking for, which my first picture shows.

Beejis60 · 02-18-2013, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoffman5982

your paint looks like powdercoat. Also, what's the purpose of the rubber mat on the inside around the bulkhead connectors?

To make a seal.

Royal_T · 02-18-2013, 09:42 AM

I know the feeling about spare time.. But glad you had time to work on her.. Looking good bro

2muchboost · 02-18-2013, 09:44 AM

Toby....sir you are a mad scientist. Keep up the amazing work. Hands down the most complete build I have ever seen.

ryans523 · 02-18-2013, 11:41 AM

subscribed, nice build

Hoffman5982 · 02-18-2013, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beejis60

To make a seal.

I figured if that was the case an o-ring would have sufficed. Now I know

Broadfield · 02-18-2013, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoffman5982

your paint looks like powdercoat. Also, what's the purpose of the rubber mat on the inside around the bulkhead connectors?

It's a sheet of ABS... which serves as a giant washer on the backside. There is a sheet of sound deadening on the firewall behind it to act as a sealer... just like what you see where my MIL spec harness comes in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Green

Bravo! I have been reading this thread for quite some time and lurking around. I figured it was time to join up on this site. Its nice to see dedication and care go into the fine details. It's nice to know there are other people out there with the same OCD as me. Where perfect just is the only way to do something. Where there is no such thing as cutting corners. I look forward to seeing more of this car as you progress. Well Done. SUBSCRIBED.

Thanks man!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbozx

Edit: my mistake Toby - I see that the slight angle upwards is what it seems what you are looking for, which my first picture shows.

Yes, you have the compressor that I need. I was hoping the C5 would work since they exit out the back... it would of made for an ultra clean install. So I'll get the CTS-V and I'll either weld on o-ring pilot fittings to the OEM end... kind of like what you have or I'll see if the Denso compressor blocks will fit... but I don't think the bottom one will clear the frame rail.

Nice build by-the-way... I was checking your thread out a couple weeks ago.

Turbozx · 02-18-2013, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Yes, you have the compressor that I need. I was hoping the C5 would work since they exit out the back... it would of made for an ultra clean install. So I'll get the CTS-V and I'll either weld on o-ring pilot fittings to the OEM end... kind of like what you have or I'll see if the Denso compressor blocks will fit... but I don't think the bottom one will clear the frame rail.

Nice build by-the-way... I was checking your thread out a couple weeks ago.

Thanks. Here are some pictures with PN's in case you need them as there might be a couple of different CTS-V compressors. For some reason the PN's on the GM instructions are not matching the actual numbers on the compressor.

Untitled by gnakata2007, on Flickr

As the photo is crappy, here are the numbers in the picture
The numbers are 20938668
MC447180-7813
10S17F
Denso

CTS V AC Info by gnakata2007, on Flickr

AC PART NUMBER INFO by gnakata2007, on Flickr

Sstrappjr · 02-18-2013, 10:29 PM

Super clean

Beejis60 · 02-19-2013, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

It's a sheet of ABS... which serves as a giant washer on the backside. There is a sheet of sound deadening on the firewall behind it to act as a sealer... just like what you see where my MIL spec harness comes in.

Oh, looked like blank rubber 'sheets' to me too. Good idea.

georgegto · 03-01-2013, 11:23 AM

Just saw some pics from ur fotki album..was the wiring from chase bays not done careful? It looks that u might have some troubles starting up the engine.

JohanM · 03-01-2013, 11:51 AM

CamryOnBronze · 03-01-2013, 07:05 PM

Looking good Tony!

Broadfield · 03-01-2013, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgegto

Just saw some pics from ur fotki album..was the wiring from chase bays not done careful? It looks that u might have some troubles starting up the engine.

I'm not really sure what you are referring to? What would make you think there would be any troubles starting the engine from some pictures you may have seen? Did you see something out of whack?

georgegto · 03-02-2013, 02:11 AM

I'm referring to pictures like this
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1362215372.650137.jpg
Cut wire from the injector plug etc

GSXRJJordan · 03-02-2013, 02:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgegto

I'm referring to pictures like this
Attachment 51381
Cut wire from the injector plug etc

Wut.

Broadfield · 03-02-2013, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgegto

I'm referring to pictures like this
Cut wire from the injector plug etc

Oh, those are not finalized harness pics. This was the first LS3 harness that Chase had made. So I was working with him to get lengths and plugs correct etc. I knew the harness was going back to him for more refinements and that particular injector harness was about an inch or so too short. So I forced that harness over to see if I could actually get it to plug in and it snapped the wire.

This is a "build", so not all of the pics I take are representative of the final outcome/product. I assure you the harness that is sitting on the car now is good-to-go.

Beejis60 · 03-05-2013, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

A few places sell speedbleeders and clutch lines, I made my own on my car and bought one for the customer's E-rod/TR6060 we have in the shop now. We also used the MGW shifter (it's RAD), here's a comparo between TR6060 stock Camaro shifter and the MGW:

My car (stock Camaro stuff)
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--J8gvs23tZA/T5b_YZEOunI/AAAAAAAAB7I/DX1EDqmqhnk/s640/IMG_20120424_122909.jpg[img]
[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NmGzEDU25jc/T69vmG4XpoI/AAAAAAAADic/9Oi3TfG7IgU/s640/IMG_20120513_012307.jpg[img]

Customer car (MGW stuff)
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RwGTWDDm5-8/UD67sTWVMyI/AAAAAAAAFas/iDYYz336BlM/s640/IMG_20120829_180122.jpg[img]
[img]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hAVNlSoxNiE/UD673vkXdII/AAAAAAAAFck/fHhY0PWVTx4/s640/IMG_20120829_180132.jpg[img]

Edit: thought I had a ruler pic from my car, anyways, Camaro shifter sits almost 2" futher back than the T56 shifter does with a straight lever, but that's too far forward for me since I sit all the way up against the back seat. On the S-chassis the stock position is about 2" further back than the FD, so you'll love it either way.

Jordan/Toby,

With your 6060 conversion, did you guys do the slip yoke conversion (link below), or just keep that flange style output shaft?

2010 SS TR6060 into 4th Gen FBody (PICS) - Page 3 - LS1TECH

rawgarage · 03-08-2013, 05:56 PM

very detailed...long time in the making...

drscooper · 03-09-2013, 04:30 PM

very clean great job!

Salvarath · 06-12-2013, 09:58 PM

Any new updates? I'm addicted

02-17-2013, 09:30 PM	#1746
Broadfield Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Normal, IL Age: 50 Posts: 2,946 Trader Rating: (163) Feedback Score: 163 reviews	I know it's going to seem like I'm lying here, but I had some spare time to work on the car today I'm working on the air conditioning setup at the moment: My quest for a clean tidy engine bay has led me to doing a "tucked" air conditioning setup. I don't really like the idea of lines going everywhere in the bay. So I'm going to simplify it by running the lines out of the compressor directly to some custom bulkheads on the firewall. I can run the lines down the same path as my heater hoses alongside the block. Typically the firewall fittings are at each end of a giant loop that takes place in the engine bay. I will essentially relocate that loop to behind the dash and down the inside upper portion of the passenger fender. Then the dryer and condenser will be up front out of site behind the bumper. I want to use all XRP air conditioning hose and fittings. Which means I have to convert everything over to o-ring pilot fittings. Since I bought an aftermarket dryer and condenser, I had the choice to get them with o-ring pilot ports... so those were no big deal. However, I had to figure out what to do with the compressor, evaporator and the ports at the firewall. I'm still in the middle of all of this, but I'll show you my progress so far. First thing was to figure out how to modify the evaporator to work in the "tucked" setup. As it sits from the factory, the evaporator hard lines come out through the firewall. These have to go bye-bye since I'm going to use the firewall locations for my compressor lines. Which means that the connections for the evaporator lines will now need to be done inside the car instead of at the firewall. So I cracked the evaporator plastic housing open to see what I was up against. The evaporator core sits in the middle of the housing as seen below. You can also see where the hard lines exit the housing and normally would protrude through the firewall: As luck would have it, the evaporator is square. I rotated the evaporator core, inside the housing 90 degrees, so that the hard lines would now point down over the passenger foot well. This would allow me to do my connections inside the car and leave me room on the inside of the firewall for some custom bulkheads. I cut off the plastic protrusions that held the OEM hard lines in place: Housing back together... I will simply seal over that figure 8 shaped hole with some thin ABS plastic and epoxy: I cut the hard lines down so that the new 90 degree fittings would hug the housing as close as possible. As mentioned, these are going to exit right above the passenger's feet. So I don' want them hanging down where they are going to get kicked. Had some aluminum male o-ring pilot fittings welded on: I hogged out an area in the bottom of the housing for these to exit: Some closed cell foam on the inside around the fittings and some machined 90 degree o-ring pilot fittings... this part is complete: Test fit back in the car... they really don't hang down lower than the surrounding items: Second order of business are the bulkheads for the compressor lines. It will be a o-ring pilot #10 and a #8 on the firewall. Unfortunately the two holes on the firewall are huge. Had I known I was going to do a tucked setup, I would have welded those closed and made new smaller holes for a pre-made bulkhead. Oh well, time to do something slightly custom and make it work. I bought one of the aforementioned bulkheads from Vintage Air just so I could use the male-to-male fittings. This is what they look like once pulled off the Vintage Air firewall plate: I figured I would do somewhat of the same setup I did for my heater hose bulkheads... custom machined aluminum plates that would cover the OEM holes and house the male fittings. I came up with these: Coated with the some black epoxy paint: Mounted in the car: This is what I'm looking at inside the cabin: I now need to get all of the XRP AC hoses and fittings ordered up so I can start mocking everything up. I also need to buy a CTS-V compressor. I have both a C5 and C6 compressor and neither one of those are going to work. The C6 compressor fittings exit out the side into the frame rail. There's not enough clearance by a long shot. The C5 compressor fittings exit out the back. But by the time I add a compressor o-ring pilot adaptor block, the fittings will hit the #2 primary on the header. The CTS-V compressor angles the fittings out the side and angled up.. perfect!... I think!?!?! Once I have the compressor squared away, I can make the two compressor lines for the bay, the lines inside the cabin and the lines down the fender to the front of the car. __________________ Follow Along For My Latest Work My Portfolio Please Share Check Out My Builds Last edited by Broadfield; 02-18-2013 at 08:04 PM..

02-17-2013, 10:01 PM	#1748
Hoffman5982 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Definitely NOT FL.... Age: 32 Posts: 2,504 Trader Rating: (25) Feedback Score: 25 reviews	your paint looks like powdercoat. Also, what's the purpose of the rubber mat on the inside around the bulkhead connectors? __________________

02-17-2013, 10:40 PM	#1749
Mr.Green Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Houston, Tx Posts: 2 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Bravo! I have been reading this thread for quite some time and lurking around. I figured it was time to join up on this site. Its nice to see dedication and care go into the fine details. It's nice to know there are other people out there with the same OCD as me. Where perfect just is the only way to do something. Where there is no such thing as cutting corners. I look forward to seeing more of this car as you progress. Well Done. SUBSCRIBED. __________________ "I'm gonna go home and sleep with my wife."

02-18-2013, 09:42 AM	#1752
Royal_T Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: TX Age: 41 Posts: 813 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I know the feeling about spare time.. But glad you had time to work on her.. Looking good bro __________________ http://zilvia.net/advertise.html

03-01-2013, 11:23 AM	#1760
georgegto Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Sweden Age: 38 Posts: 37 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Just saw some pics from ur fotki album..was the wiring from chase bays not done careful? It looks that u might have some troubles starting up the engine. Last edited by georgegto; 03-01-2013 at 02:40 PM..

02-01-2013, 04:11 PM	#1742
MikeySand Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Jacksonville, FL Age: 38 Posts: 165 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Definitely overlooked that part, thank you for spoon feeding me though.

02-05-2013, 09:57 AM	#1745
gootchanater1324 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Midwest Posts: 67 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Miss this thing haha I need to stop by again soon!

02-17-2013, 09:50 PM	#1747
Beejis60 BANNED Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: in a house Posts: 564 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	At first glance, I thought those were swagelok fittings. Either way, secksy man!

02-18-2013, 09:44 AM	#1753
2muchboost Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Austin, TX Age: 40 Posts: 2,183 Trader Rating: (33) Feedback Score: 33 reviews	Toby....sir you are a mad scientist. Keep up the amazing work. Hands down the most complete build I have ever seen.

02-18-2013, 11:41 AM	#1754
ryans523 Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: south florida Posts: 33 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	subscribed, nice build

02-18-2013, 10:29 PM	#1758
Sstrappjr Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Fussa Japan Age: 33 Posts: 27 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Super clean

03-01-2013, 11:51 AM	#1761
JohanM Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: SW, FL Posts: 334 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	DUDE

03-01-2013, 07:05 PM	#1762
CamryOnBronze Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: MI Age: 38 Posts: 3,916 Trader Rating: (131) Rides Gallery: CamryOnBronze Feedback Score: 131 reviews	Looking good Tony! __________________ CamryOnBronze.com

03-02-2013, 02:11 AM	#1764
georgegto Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Sweden Age: 38 Posts: 37 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I'm referring to pictures like this ImageUploadedByTapatalk1362215372.650137.jpg Cut wire from the injector plug etc

03-08-2013, 05:56 PM	#1768
rawgarage Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: h o u s t o n Age: 35 Posts: 5,986 Trader Rating: (75) Feedback Score: 75 reviews	very detailed...long time in the making...

06-12-2013, 09:58 PM	#1770
Salvarath Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2013 Location: Northeast Ohio Posts: 75 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Any new updates? I'm addicted