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Old 01-26-2015, 05:03 PM   #17821
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I would think you could weld them or cap them, it's not like it will block the main passages.

Or make and oil cooler to cool your cooler so your car can look cooler while your engine stays cooler.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:12 PM   #17822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by korito727 View Post
Or make and oil cooler to cool your cooler so your car can look cooler while your engine stays cooler.
That's a cool idea, I don't know how well it would work. I simply left them opened and had no issues when I first 5 speed swapped.


And if you didn't know, that was the automatic transmission cooler lines, separate from the engine cooling circuit.
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Old 01-26-2015, 08:04 PM   #17823
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Does anyone know the proper way to remove the interior panels on the B-pillar in a S13? I tried before and I removed the screws. It still felt like it was held on by something and it would break if I yanked at it. I would rather not break any clips or anything when removing.
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Old 01-26-2015, 08:09 PM   #17824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yomisiu View Post
tried to buy a mishimoto rad on here but the deal fell through...

hopped on craigslist today and found a random new s14 rad for $60. cool. so i bought it because im eager to get my car running after my oem rad took a shit.

come home, compare, and realize that i think i bought an automatic transmission specific rad. (i have a M/T)

example:


could i just shut/weld those fuckers?

what do you guys that have done 5 speed swaps do?
You can leave them open. It won't do a thing. They're completely independent from the engine coolant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrowking View Post
Does anyone know the proper way to remove the interior panels on the B-pillar in a S13? I tried before and I removed the screws. It still felt like it was held on by something and it would break if I yanked at it. I would rather not break any clips or anything when removing.
The only things that hold them on are a bunch of clips and 1 screw under a plastic cap.
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:36 AM   #17825
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interesting. thank you everyone.
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Old 01-27-2015, 06:00 AM   #17826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abcdefg123 View Post
The d21 hardbody flywheel is 240mm compared to 220 ka24. The non turbo z32 uses a 240mm clutch.
Yes it will be over 350tq , 1994 hardbody
Ka t67 water meth fully built

Ka motor> d21 flywheel>z32 non turbo clutch> s13 trans> Dana 44 rear end

Plans are drag not drift
Thanks
Question, more out of curiosity:
Why if you are drag racing are you not running a full on E85 build and running water/meth injection instead? The numbers I have seen running an E85 build are much higher at lower boost pressures. Also, with all the cash layout, why an OE flywheel, and not a lightweight one? As I said, curious.
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Old 01-27-2015, 06:48 AM   #17827
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Anyone know of any wheels that look just like work vskf? Manufacture and name please n
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:28 AM   #17828
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http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustangwheels.html

neither come with a hoonigan sticker, though. so there's no point.
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:41 PM   #17829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David48 View Post
You can leave them open. It won't do a thing. They're completely independent from the engine coolant.



The only things that hold them on are a bunch of clips and 1 screw under a plastic cap.
Thanks! Is there any technique to pulling them off without breaking anything? Or is it just yank and yank harder until it pops off?
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:15 AM   #17830
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s14 help

Does anyone know if an s13 SR alternator fit an s14ka a new one is about 130-140 but i have a buddy that's got one for SR that i can get for free. help please
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:21 AM   #17831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by korito727 View Post
Or make and oil cooler to cool your cooler so your car can look cooler while your engine stays cooler.
Not designed for those pressures. You can however hook the PS lines upto it.
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Old 01-28-2015, 09:50 AM   #17832
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I guess nobody could tell I was joking, Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 01-28-2015, 01:04 PM   #17833
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Originally Posted by korito727 View Post
I guess nobody could tell I was joking, Sorry for the confusion.
Idk, I lol'd.
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Old 01-28-2015, 02:10 PM   #17834
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New here but hope this is the correct spot to post this if not im sorry.
The plan is to just Daily Drive it till I get enough Funds for a S14 Blacktop.

I just picked up my first 240sx project a 5spd 1990 s13 hatch. Its bone stock with about 236k miles on a sohc KA.

I was going to do some simple maintenance on motor it runs rather good right now. Any suggestions of things I should look at would help.

I also wanted to upgrade the brakes to a 300zx setup since I have 2 broken calipers. As well as a 5lug conversion. A long with that I figured I would redo the entire suspension.

So my question is this a good place to start? and what are somethings I should lookout for when doing this.
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Old 01-28-2015, 02:40 PM   #17835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haven View Post
New here but hope this is the correct spot to post this if not im sorry.
The plan is to just Daily Drive it till I get enough Funds for a S14 Blacktop.

I just picked up my first 240sx project a 5spd 1990 s13 hatch. Its bone stock with about 236k miles on a sohc KA.

I was going to do some simple maintenance on motor it runs rather good right now. Any suggestions of things I should look at would help.

I also wanted to upgrade the brakes to a 300zx setup since I have 2 broken calipers. As well as a 5lug conversion. A long with that I figured I would redo the entire suspension.

So my question is this a good place to start? and what are somethings I should lookout for when doing this.
Welcome, you've found the right section to post. The KA is a pretty resilient engine but maintenance can't be neglected. Depending on how long it takes you to save for an SR, you might need to do a serious overhaul of some basic parts at that mileage. I would start with a basic tune-up.

Now modifying a car on a budget can be done but don't start skimping on quality parts. You're going to find that 300ZX brake swap and 5 lug will set you back from an SR swap. A budget friendly solution would be to look into the Q45 brake swap and retaining the 4 lug. The Q45 calipers and rotors have more than enough braking power for daily duty and require even less modification.

A suspension overhaul is also a slippery slope. Depending on your goals with the car it can get expensive and not very budget-friendly. No sense in giving you suggestions until you elaborate some more here. A quick search will yield good results.

Remember to try to keep this a small question thread, not "how do i build my car" thread...I've probably already responded with too much...
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Old 01-28-2015, 04:53 PM   #17836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haven View Post
New here but hope this is the correct spot to post this if not im sorry.
The plan is to just Daily Drive it till I get enough Funds for a S14 Blacktop.

I just picked up my first 240sx project a 5spd 1990 s13 hatch. Its bone stock with about 236k miles on a sohc KA.

I was going to do some simple maintenance on motor it runs rather good right now. Any suggestions of things I should look at would help.

I also wanted to upgrade the brakes to a 300zx setup since I have 2 broken calipers. As well as a 5lug conversion. A long with that I figured I would redo the entire suspension.

So my question is this a good place to start? and what are somethings I should lookout for when doing this.
As far as the engine goes, replace any leaking seals and gaskets. don't open it up too much if it running well.

You may find yourself spending as much as an engine swap if you start digging too far into suspension, but it does need to happen before you add power.
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Old 01-28-2015, 06:06 PM   #17837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haven View Post
New here but hope this is the correct spot to post this if not im sorry.
The plan is to just Daily Drive it till I get enough Funds for a S14 Blacktop.

I just picked up my first 240sx project a 5spd 1990 s13 hatch. Its bone stock with about 236k miles on a sohc KA.

I was going to do some simple maintenance on motor it runs rather good right now. Any suggestions of things I should look at would help.

I also wanted to upgrade the brakes to a 300zx setup since I have 2 broken calipers. As well as a 5lug conversion. A long with that I figured I would redo the entire suspension.

So my question is this a good place to start? and what are somethings I should lookout for when doing this.
-Regarding Brakes

I would go with what they said ^ if your on a budget.
Im not too familiar with Q45 brakes but I am with the 300zx brake swap.

Just to give you an estimate of the cost

Front Calipers - $200
Front Rotors - $100
Front SS Brake lines - $60
Front Brake pads - $80
Rear Calipers - $200
Rear Rotors - $100
Rear SS Brake Lines - $60
Rear brake pads - $80
300zx Rear drum assembly - $100
Drum hardware - $10
ebrake cables - $100
Brake fluid - $10
300zx BMC (forgot what size, ill check if you need that) - $200

My total check came out to $1,300.
I did the work myself, no labor.

It is straight pretty straight forward if you are planning on doing the swap your self
you can reference off the importnut 300zx swap guide, it's a good general guide.
But If you need any specific details or info/tips/ whatever,
PM or email me at [email protected]
I'm no expert I'll give you info based on my experience.

I do get a a thankful discount for working with a brake company and more than happy to help you or anyone else out there.

Chris

Last edited by Nonsense; 01-28-2015 at 11:31 PM..
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Old 01-28-2015, 06:12 PM   #17838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonsense View Post
-Regarding Brakes

I would go with what they said ^
Im not too familiar with Q45 brakes but I am with the 300zx brake swap.

Just to give you an estimate of the cost

Front Calipers - $200
Front Rotors - $100
Front SS Brake lines - $60
Front Brake pads - $80
Rear Calipers - $200
Rear Rotors - $100
Rear SS Brake Lines - $60
Rear brake pads - $80
300zx Rear drum assembly - $100
Drum hardware - $10
ebrake cables - $100
Brake fluid - $10
300zx BMC (forgot what size, ill check if you need that) - $200

My total check came out to $1,300.
I did the work myself, no labor.

It is straight pretty straight forward if you never done it before,
you can reference of the importnut 300zx swap guide.
But If you need any specific details or info/tips/ whatever,
PM or email me at [email protected]

I do get a a thankful discount for working with a brake company and more than happy to share it!

Chris
Thanks ill let you know its something I 4sure plan 2 get done.
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:12 PM   #17839
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i have a set of some 3 piece wheels and they are +50 offset, any recommended place where i can buy inner barrels and outer lips for them? i would like to relip them or something to lower the offsets.they are speedline alessio wheels 18 8.5 and 9.5 maybe 10

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Old 01-29-2015, 06:25 AM   #17840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by korito727 View Post
I guess nobody could tell I was joking, Sorry for the confusion.

Brah, I read that and laughed all day every time I thought about it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonsense View Post


-Regarding Brakes, other NEW parts

I would go with what they said ^ if your on a budget.
Im not too familiar with Q45 brakes but I am with the 300zx brake swap.

Just to give you an estimate of the cost

Front Calipers - $200
Front Rotors - $100
Front SS Brake lines - $60
Front Brake pads - $80
Rear Calipers - $200
Rear Rotors - $100
Rear SS Brake Lines - $60
Rear brake pads - $80
300zx Rear drum assembly - $100
Drum hardware - $10
ebrake cables - $100
Brake fluid - $10
300zx BMC (forgot what size, ill check if you need that) - $200

My total check came out to $1,300.
I did the work myself, no labor.

It is straight pretty straight forward if you are planning on doing the swap your self
you can reference off the importnut 300zx swap guide, it's a good general guide.
But If you need any specific details or info/tips/ whatever,
PM or email me at [email protected]
I'm no expert I'll give you info based on my experience.

I do get a a thankful discount for working with a brake company and more than happy to help you or anyone else out there.

Chris
Imma just save you all money right now:

Js4Kix Lifestyle
Sales: js4kixsd AT gmail DOT com

He's a Soldier running a legit business with distribution from Mind Corp, and Pro Motion, along with others, and ships direct

OR

Parts Geek(where I got my stuff, right before I found out what Js4Kix could do for me a week later...ah well, live and learn)


Brakes:

Centric(Stop-Tech) Posi-Quiet Loaded Calipers Front
Stop Tech Slotted Rotors

$233 SHIPPED, core is $10 per caliper included in that price
Stop Tech SS Lines(well Js4Kix got those for me and they were under what you list)

The rears are slightly less
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Old 01-29-2015, 06:47 AM   #17841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shagPR View Post
i have a set of some 3 piece wheels and they are +50 offset, any recommended place where i can buy inner barrels and outer lips for them? i would like to relip them or something to lower the offsets.they are speedline alessio wheels 18 8.5 and 9.5 maybe 10
Vr wheels, memory fab, wheel flip, wheel outfitters maybe? And if you know the exact pattern you may be able to find used stuff on auction sites.
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:15 AM   #17842
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Does anyone have a picture of a see coupe with SSR Vienna schnitt 18x8.5 +30 and +35 ? Thank you
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:02 PM   #17843
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Trying to figure out what wing is in the review 180sx?? Please help

Been trying to figure out what wing us on the review 180sx and where I could try to find one! Any help would be much appreciated! I'd upload images but I'm new to the forum and trying to learn as I go.
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:48 PM   #17844
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Hey guys I was wondering, last time on my s14 I had added 15mm spacers on 18x9.5 +15 wheels up front. I had tien inners and outters plus the spacers. I had them add - 7 camber. When adjusting the tie rods there was not enough threads on the tie rods because I had widened the track. I will be doing the same on my s13 but it will go like this

17x9 +35, I will be extending the flca 25mm, I will also throw on 15, 20, or 25 mm spacers havent decided yet. I plan on running about 6 or 7 maybe 8 degrees of negative camber up front. I will be running factory s13 knuckles, spl outter tie rods, the question is, in order to not run out of threads what inner tie rods do you recommend?

Spl suggest to run oem z32 inners or z33 tien inners only. S14 inners if I have modified knuckles. There are also S14 extended parts shop max inners. What inner would be the best to go with?
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:05 AM   #17845
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What brake pads are good for non abs stock brakes for the s13? For daily, spirited driving, and sometimes autox.
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Old 02-03-2015, 05:57 AM   #17846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bagdeez View Post
Been trying to figure out what wing us on the review 180sx and where I could try to find one! Any help would be much appreciated! I'd upload images but I'm new to the forum and trying to learn as I go.
If you are referencing the blue car with the green engine bay and the meaty tires, that would be a Rocket Bunny kit on the car with the requisite straight up/high angle RB wing
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:10 AM   #17847
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Can I just offset my NRG short hub and quick release to like 2 or 3 o clock and use my grip Royal wheel with no problem?
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:10 AM   #17848
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anyone know what thickness material people use to extend oem control arms?
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:23 AM   #17849
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Can I just offset my NRG short hub and quick release to like 2 or 3 o clock and use my grip Royal wheel with no problem?

You should be able to if the short hub has the Nardi layout. I can check when later for you as I have a grip royal with the NRG short hub and quick release.
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Old 02-04-2015, 07:02 AM   #17850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfortune View Post
What brake pads are good for non abs stock brakes for the s13? For daily, spirited driving, and sometimes autox.
If you are looking for an OE fitment pad for the above, the
Centric Posi-Quiet pad is made by Stop Tech. On the road known as 'The Trace' that runs between TN and KY, 'at speed', these breaks had zero fade during the long sprints we ran between rest and BS points.

If you want to go one better, the Centric Posi-Quiet Loaded Calipers with Stop Tech 'Sport' slotted rotors is the cat's ass for OE fitment.

You can get these for pretty cheap at Parts Geek, but my friends at Js4Kix Lifestyle can get them even cheaper and drop ship just like Parts geek does

Hit up Kevin at Js4Kix
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