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Old 02-14-2015, 07:02 AM   #17881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopazBrandon View Post
Can I than a 18x10.5 +15 offset in the front of my S13 240sx with 30mm spacers?
Consider the 17x9+15 with perfect fitment on any s-chassis for a moment. It fits so it looks flush, but tucks when the suspension flex's.
The 18x9.5 +12 pokes just a bit, enough that a roll and coil overs are required.
Now we add another 3/4" to either side in an
18x10.5 +15. 30mm Spacers will give 20mm~ of poke, or require serious adjustment and height, flares, or overfenders. If you run 30mm up front, what are you running out back? 45mm? 50mm?
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:34 PM   #17882
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I have the gktech offset rack spacers, and today when I tried to install them the passenger side didn't line up. The small tabs cause it to lock in pointing directly up or down. in the picture you can see what I'm talking about. It's on a 93 s13 coupe base.
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:46 PM   #17883
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I know I can use Z32 TT Orings on my S15 480CC injectors, but what about the caps? Can I also use the Z32 TT pintle caps on the injectors?
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Old 02-15-2015, 12:39 AM   #17884
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putting s14 sr back together- install front cover or head first?
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:00 AM   #17885
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putting s14 sr back together- install front cover or head first?
Front cover, HG, head.


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Old 02-16-2015, 01:03 PM   #17886
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so im leaking fuel near my gas tank on my hatch but its only dripping and i think the hoses are cracked. my question is do i have to drop the gas tank in order to change the hoses? and also how long are the hoses from the fuel pump assembly to the hardlines?
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Old 02-16-2015, 01:48 PM   #17887
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So I purchased the car and it was missing a whole block of fuses... I think.



Purchased a wiring specialties replacement lower harness. This is the alternator plug from fuse box plug->alt->fuse box. It goes on the that bolt and nut right?



From the fuse box I have these two thick white/red wires which were soldered to these two red wires. Previously, this was hard connected straight to the battery. Which Im guessing is why there was no charge coming back from the alt.



White/Red wire on the right goes to a 75a fuse, followed by running a thick power wire into the chassis harness around the front end, which im assuming is for the alternator fuse. The one on the left goes to power accessories throughout the fuse box.



Should both of these wires be hard wired straight to battery or should I have them connected to that bolt/nut post that the alternator supplies power to?

Sorry if this is confusing. I appreciate the help.
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:35 PM   #17888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fries View Post
So I purchased the car and it was missing a whole block of fuses... I think.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30...psf8bd7200.jpg

Purchased a wiring specialties replacement lower harness. This is the alternator plug from fuse box plug->alt->fuse box. It goes on the that bolt and nut right?

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30...ps92092cc3.jpg

From the fuse box I have these two thick white/red wires which were soldered to these two red wires. Previously, this was hard connected straight to the battery. Which Im guessing is why there was no charge coming back from the alt.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30...ps669b859b.jpg

White/Red wire on the right goes to a 75a fuse, followed by running a thick power wire into the chassis harness around the front end, which im assuming is for the alternator fuse. The one on the left goes to power accessories throughout the fuse box.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30...ps0ba14467.jpg

Should both of these wires be hard wired straight to battery or should I have them connected to that bolt/nut post that the alternator supplies power to?

Sorry if this is confusing. I appreciate the help.
Those two would normally have connectors that plug into the red block on the battery connection.

Main power connections are Battery, Alt, Fuse Box(right angle connector) and starter.

For the alternator not charging. You have the Big main power connector, Little Ground and the 2 prong control(signal) connector attached?

Reference: http://site.wiringspecialties.com/In...ionHarness.pdf
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Old 02-17-2015, 06:52 AM   #17889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaaanrel View Post
so im leaking fuel near my gas tank on my hatch but its only dripping and i think the hoses are cracked. my question is do i have to drop the gas tank in order to change the hoses? and also how long are the hoses from the fuel pump assembly to the hardlines?
Try this:

Get four jack stands. Jack the front up and max out the stands. Jack up the back only high enough to get under the car where you can work with everything, insuring it is lower than the front. This will allow a 1/4 tank of fuel to remain at the rear of the tank where it shouldn't leak if you remove the lines.
Measure your fuel line size with a caliper(cheap, harbor freight for a few dollars). Go to any brand auto store, and buy 10' of that line, new clamps, and some permatex fuel sealer.
Replace all the soft lines, using the sealer with a new clamp at each hard line joint. Do this at the rear, and the front and you should have no leaks.

I had to do this with a '93 SR20DE Sentra, my 240, and my kid's kouki
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Old 02-17-2015, 12:59 PM   #17890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Those two would normally have connectors that plug into the red block on the battery connection.

Main power connections are Battery, Alt, Fuse Box(right angle connector) and starter.

For the alternator not charging. You have the Big main power connector, Little Ground and the 2 prong control(signal) connector attached?

Reference: http://site.wiringspecialties.com/In...ionHarness.pdf
Thanks man. Hooked the wires up the battery and cut the right angle connector per wiring specialties website. I was having alt charging issues because the alt plug was wired up incorrectly. Its a 1uz swap which also requires IGN power as an exciter to get the alt kicked on.
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Old 02-17-2015, 11:32 PM   #17891
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Looking for a new catback exhaust system for my all stock ka24de with aem intake. I personally like the dual tip style and I don't want something that sounds hella loud. I looked at the brmexhaust, isis mbse type-e but I can't really tell how loud they really are from video clips. My current exhaust system is unknown and with shitty welds.. It was on the car when I bought it and it's loud as hell.. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2015, 06:42 AM   #17892
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Looking for a new catback exhaust system for my all stock ka24de with aem intake. I personally like the dual tip style and I don't want something that sounds hella loud. I looked at the brmexhaust, isis mbse type-e but I can't really tell how loud they really are from video clips. My current exhaust system is unknown and with shitty welds.. It was on the car when I bought it and it's loud as hell.. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks.
I have an OBX-R Forza 2.5" system with a dual tip can on it. It idles fairly quietly, but it also opens up at WFO as most systems do.

You will like the ISIS MBSE dual tip. It looks good, and it sounds great at a livable tone and volume
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Old 02-18-2015, 02:07 PM   #17893
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Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
I have an OBX-R Forza 2.5" system with a dual tip can on it. It idles fairly quietly, but it also opens up at WFO as most systems do.

You will like the ISIS MBSE dual tip. It looks good, and it sounds great at a livable tone and volume
Yeah I am leaning towards the isis mbse dual tip more now. I have found more clear videos of it and it sounds really good. I am going to have to get a test pipe or new cat now because the old cat is welded to the old exhaust..
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Old 02-19-2015, 03:21 PM   #17894
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Is there an easy work around to removing face bolts off of Weds? The 7mm triple square bolts? Obviously that socket/bit is hard to find. I heard allen key can work, but I'm afraid to strip the head. You know, this thing.
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:06 PM   #17895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingmulky View Post
I have the gktech offset rack spacers, and today when I tried to install them the passenger side didn't line up. The small tabs cause it to lock in pointing directly up or down. in the picture you can see what I'm talking about. It's on a 93 s13 coupe base.
I'm pretty sure these are for RHD cars only

Quote:
Originally Posted by zfortune View Post
Looking for a new catback exhaust system for my all stock ka24de with aem intake. I personally like the dual tip style and I don't want something that sounds hella loud. I looked at the brmexhaust, isis mbse type-e but I can't really tell how loud they really are from video clips. My current exhaust system is unknown and with shitty welds.. It was on the car when I bought it and it's loud as hell.. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks.
Why not just get a stock exhaust?
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Old 02-20-2015, 10:25 PM   #17896
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is there any way to remove and install an s13 bumper with ease? i just think having to go inside the fenders to remove the nuts is really tedious. i kinda want to do something like this in the video below. does he just not have the brackets installed and just mounts them from the top?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6dgPk5m13A#t=88
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Old 02-21-2015, 07:57 AM   #17897
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s14 not cranking

ok guys Im new here and I have an sr swaped s14 over time this probem has gotten worse and now to were the car will not crank no matter what the car has an hks turbo timer with the adapter harness (the harness has gotten a little crispy) but I did away with the harness just for testing purposes and plug the stock harness plugs back together (still no start or click or anything) I also found a black and yellow wire that was connected with some kind of cheap connecter so I decided to solder that wire together. still nothing im getting kinda flustered don't give me the check your battery voltage speal I have a good battery that reads 12.75v but thanks for reading yall try and point me in the right direction
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Old 02-21-2015, 01:19 PM   #17898
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ka low oil pressure?

Ok so i have an auto ka that had been rebuilt , sleeved +.20 and nothing else, ive had to move my dizzy almost fully to the right to where my car has to idle at almost 1500 rpm, i noticed if i move my dizzy towards the middle where its supposed to be stock when i come to an idle at a stop my oil pressure goes down to about 20 psi and is really hard and heavy trying to take off from there until it reaches 50 ,60 psi the car drived normally. My dizzy turned to right idles on neutral around 1500 rpm and has atleast 50 or 60 psi but when im on drive and i come to a stop it drops to around 30 but isnt as hard to take because its bounces up to 60 with a little gas. i just wanna know why my car is doing that can someone shine some light on me?
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Old 02-22-2015, 12:31 AM   #17899
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What size nut do I buy for an oem type x bumper where it connects to the fender? Bumper came with with no nuts and my current pignose only has about 5 and i want to do this properly. Thanks.
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Old 02-22-2015, 03:12 PM   #17900
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KA Ka rebuild

Alright so im rebuilding my s14 ka24de and im just wondering what are the best brand of forged pistons to buy?
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Old 02-22-2015, 06:52 PM   #17901
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What cars share injectors with the KADE? I need some injectors stat and I'm not paying the value of another s13 to get them. I'm junkyard bound and need some cars to look for.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-23-2015, 06:47 AM   #17902
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Any Altima or Sentra with a KA, QR25DE, or other inline 4. You can even use the injectors out of old Sentra SER's with SR20DE's, and early model SUV's from the 90's up to around 2002 as well
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Old 02-24-2015, 10:00 AM   #17903
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I've got some replica type x side skirts and I was wondering what the best way to keep these on was. I've already got zip ties holding it to the fender and rear well as well as double side tape on the fender and rear overfender (if that makes any sense). The middle just kind of flaps around atm. Also does anyone have recommendation for some better tape? Im using the 3m from Autozone but it kind of sucks. If it rains or I drive at all it just unstick's. Thanks for the help in advanced.
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Old 02-24-2015, 12:07 PM   #17904
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I've got some replica type x side skirts and I was wondering what the best way to keep these on was. I've already got zip ties holding it to the fender and rear well as well as double side tape on the fender and rear overfender (if that makes any sense). The middle just kind of flaps around atm. Also does anyone have recommendation for some better tape? Im using the 3m from Autozone but it kind of sucks. If it rains or I drive at all it just unstick's. Thanks for the help in advanced.
3m bonding adhesive? Gray(sometimes clear) soft/stretchy, red backing tape not foam? If so the surfaces have to be very clean as it works by surface tension. It is what OEMs use to install side skirts, spoilers and other body trim.
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Old 02-24-2015, 02:14 PM   #17905
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3m bonding adhesive? Gray(sometimes clear) soft/stretchy, red backing tape not foam? If so the surfaces have to be very clean as it works by surface tension. It is what OEMs use to install side skirts, spoilers and other body trim.
Mine was made my 3m but it seemed to be more foam than anything. I guess ill take a look for different stuff. Ive been cleaning the hell out of it prior too.
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Old 02-24-2015, 02:20 PM   #17906
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Is there an easy work around to removing face bolts off of Weds? The 7mm triple square bolts? Obviously that socket/bit is hard to find. I heard allen key can work, but I'm afraid to strip the head. You know, this thing.
Also while Im asking questions. You can remove the Weds triple square bolts with a torx fitting, I used Craftsman. Its not a perfect fit and you run the risk of stripping but I only stripped one of mine and that was because of a rusted bolt that ended up being cut anyway. If you want to be perfect you can order a triple square socket here:

http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/...atd-258-02.htm

Ive never used this place but its cheap and like you said, M7's are hard to find.
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Old 02-24-2015, 02:48 PM   #17907
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After viewing a few build threads of high HP SR20 motors, I have noticed a few guys get the turbo coolant feed from the coolant neck & not from the factory feed port. How come, is there an advantage ?
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Old 02-24-2015, 05:17 PM   #17908
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After viewing a few build threads of high HP SR20 motors, I have noticed a few guys get the turbo coolant feed from the coolant neck & not from the factory feed port. How come, is there an advantage ?
S14/S15 water neck, much easier to connect a braided AN line to than the annoying water loop in the back of the S13 SR.
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:55 AM   #17909
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Mine was made my 3m but it seemed to be more foam than anything. I guess ill take a look for different stuff. Ive been cleaning the hell out of it prior too.
Get the sill side screws they use on the kouki skirts and drill the baseline so your stuff doesn't fall off. These are plastic bases with short metal screws and attach at the front, rear in the fenderwell, and a few places along the base of the rocker seam. Use tape only if you want to take it all off and sell it later, or mold it in with body sealer. You can also use body sealer(open your hood, see that line in front of your shock tower, body sealer)

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...=767&PageName=
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:08 AM   #17910
S14DB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theStig880 View Post
Mine was made my 3m but it seemed to be more foam than anything. I guess ill take a look for different stuff. Ive been cleaning the hell out of it prior too.
What I meant was the white foam tape. This is sometimes called acrylic foam tape.


Really need to clean the surfaces with rubbing alcohol to get everything off.
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