High HP SR Spark Blowout....Discussion/Solutions - Page 6 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

2fast4y0u · 06-28-2010, 09:08 AM

car does not have to be running to pull codes..just the key on.

i was really hoping to see a post in big letters saying you solved the issue. im sad now.
did you have all the mods to your car when you ran the stock ecu? that might be the reason it wont start. i never attempted to start my car after i put on the 2871 and 850 injectors. i got a rom tune, then i started it.

jspaeth · 06-28-2010, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

car does not have to be running to pull codes..just the key on.

i was really hoping to see a post in big letters saying you solved the issue. im sad now.
did you have all the mods to your car when you ran the stock ecu? that might be the reason it wont start. i never attempted to start my car after i put on the 2871 and 850 injectors. i got a rom tune, then i started it.

um cams and turbo no, but I swapped back in stock injectors and set the MAF back up....so it SHOULD start right up.

Have CAS coming in the mail, hopefully problem will be solved by next weekend....

This is the worst thing trying to troubleshoot....

If it ends up being CAS, it will be that I just "tried a new one" and fixed it....but I am not sure how one could "logically" determine that the CAS intermittantly failing is the issue, unless you had an oscilloscope or whatever....

2fast4y0u · 06-28-2010, 10:13 AM

i see.
well ic an tell you this becase im starting to deal with this issue as well.
check that disc in the cas again. i think i remember you telling us its wasnt a bad dent but it was there.
im installing a aem ems today and i have to order a new cas disc because theres an issue with SOME sr redtop discs and the ems. If it is something that AEM has found to be and issue, my guess is that this disc is pretty important.

US240MP · 06-30-2010, 03:22 PM

I know that I am obviously new to this site, but not to cars, and not to 240s... What are you using as the source power for your Coils? Is it sharing a circuit with something else? If it is, it may be that you are not getting enough current to the coils. Sure, you would still see 12v, but not enough current to produce a solid spark. If it shares its source with something else, buy a $.99 relay from an auto part store, wire it to output straight from a 12v source, (battery) w/ a fuse of course. Its a cheap and quick test to make sure that you are getting adequate current. As for everything else, way to stick with it... This thread has to be one of the best that I have read in a while...except for no one reading the entire thread and just throwing in their .02 that have been said by 10 ppl before them... Thanks

jspaeth · 06-30-2010, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by US240MP

I know that I am obviously new to this site, but not to cars, and not to 240s... What are you using as the source power for your Coils? Is it sharing a circuit with something else? If it is, it may be that you are not getting enough current to the coils. Sure, you would still see 12v, but not enough current to produce a solid spark. If it shares its source with something else, buy a $.99 relay from an auto part store, wire it to output straight from a 12v source, (battery) w/ a fuse of course. Its a cheap and quick test to make sure that you are getting adequate current. As for everything else, way to stick with it... This thread has to be one of the best that I have read in a while...except for no one reading the entire thread and just throwing in their .02 that have been said by 10 ppl before them... Thanks

I believe it may be sharing power with the ECU, which shouldn't be drawing much power....the main ECCS relay's switched power should go only to the ECU and to the coil side of the ignition coil relay, and that's it......however, it appears as though the person who did my swap bypassed the ignition coil relay and used the switched power coming off of the ECCS relay to directly power the coilpacks....

I find it hard to believe that the ECU is drawing such a significant amount of current to be causing insufficient current to the coilpacks....bt your point is still a good one...ideally, the coilpacks should have their own dedicated source from the battery, with a relay of course....

I just found this out this weekend (swap done by someone else....other than this "oddity", everything else has been perfect 4+ years in terms of wiring and electronics....).

Also, I was thinking the same thing, but the fact is that the car had sufficient current to create spark for the past 4 years, so I don't see that it would all of a sudden change.

Nonetheless, I agree with what you wrote as being a possible problem....in this case, however, due to how long the car functioned perfectly, I think it is something else (electronics getting heat-soaked....leaning towards CAS right now).....

US240MP · 07-01-2010, 12:36 AM

I agree that it would be strange to have something soooo simple create such a problem all of a sudden... I just know that even simple electronics, not only hate heat with a passion, but also can randomly fail. When they fail they also can act inconsistently at random times... I am sure that in good circumstances that the ECU wouldn't be drawing enough current to effect it, but with age, heat, and abuse (vibrations)... Who knows... Good luck brah... I am looking forward to the outcome. The suspense is getting to me a lil... I might have to make popcorn every day I read this...lol

jspaeth · 07-04-2010, 09:24 AM

For those following my problem in this thread, please see a new thread that I have just created in Tech Talk.......I logged CAS voltages.....

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/330677...ml#post3525443

2fast4y0u · 07-04-2010, 10:28 AM

i to am trying to hunt down a similar issue now...went to the track on friday night and i can feel power loss around the 6k rpm range. it takes forever to get to redline now for some reason.
my et's were TERRIBLE!!!

jspaeth · 07-04-2010, 06:18 PM

Okay...update....

This may seem silly....now....it doesn't take much heat to initialize the issue, whereas before it took a while for it to kick in.

started up the car, let it run for like 3 minutes, turned it off.

When I turned it off, I couldn't start it....tried a few times, would NOT turn over for shit.

So then, I go under the hood, and quickly take the cover off the CAS and put an ice pack on the plastic part where you can't "see" the disk....the part where the sender or reciever of the light beam must be contained.

Leave the ice pack on for like 45 seconds....

Then the car starts up without much of an issue.

Let it run again for 5 mintues, turn it off....try starting it like 5 times but no start.

Ice pack on CAS....and voilla, it starts up.

I NEED A CAS!!!!!!!!!!!! SOMEBODY PLEASE!!!!!!

I am going nuts....I jsut bought 2 CAS off of someone on here, and they were sposed to get here this weekend, and sure as shit, the kid had some problems and never told me, and they were never even shipped.

To make it worse, he later found out they weren't even working CAS....FUCK

I am trying so hard to find someone in my area to borrow a CAS or something....or just to buy a working one from a legit person on here.

$350 for a brand new one is going to own me pretty hard.

jamanrr · 07-04-2010, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspaeth

Okay...update....

This may seem silly....now....it doesn't take much heat to initialize the issue, whereas before it took a while for it to kick in.

started up the car, let it run for like 3 minutes, turned it off.

When I turned it off, I couldn't start it....tried a few times, would NOT turn over for shit.

So then, I go under the hood, and quickly take the cover off the CAS and put an ice pack on the plastic part where you can't "see" the disk....the part where the sender or reciever of the light beam must be contained.

Leave the ice pack on for like 45 seconds....

Then the car starts up without much of an issue.

Let it run again for 5 mintues, turn it off....try starting it like 5 times but no start.

Ice pack on CAS....and voilla, it starts up.

I NEED A CAS!!!!!!!!!!!! SOMEBODY PLEASE!!!!!!

I am going nuts....I jsut bought 2 CAS off of someone on here, and they were sposed to get here this weekend, and sure as shit, the kid had some problems and never told me, and they were never even shipped.

To make it worse, he later found out they weren't even working CAS....FUCK

I am trying so hard to find someone in my area to borrow a CAS or something....or just to buy a working one from a legit person on here.

$350 for a brand new one is going to own me pretty hard.

why would you want a used one any way? hit up the uk ebay sites. I am sure they have many from which to choose and they have been tested.

NMs14.5kouki · 07-05-2010, 01:23 AM

I believe i have one that is in good working shape... i will check in the morning. pm me if your interested in it. hope thats the problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspaeth

Okay...update....

This may seem silly....now....it doesn't take much heat to initialize the issue, whereas before it took a while for it to kick in.

started up the car, let it run for like 3 minutes, turned it off.

When I turned it off, I couldn't start it....tried a few times, would NOT turn over for shit.

So then, I go under the hood, and quickly take the cover off the CAS and put an ice pack on the plastic part where you can't "see" the disk....the part where the sender or reciever of the light beam must be contained.

Leave the ice pack on for like 45 seconds....

Then the car starts up without much of an issue.

Let it run again for 5 mintues, turn it off....try starting it like 5 times but no start.

Ice pack on CAS....and voilla, it starts up.

I NEED A CAS!!!!!!!!!!!! SOMEBODY PLEASE!!!!!!

I am going nuts....I jsut bought 2 CAS off of someone on here, and they were sposed to get here this weekend, and sure as shit, the kid had some problems and never told me, and they were never even shipped.

To make it worse, he later found out they weren't even working CAS....FUCK

I am trying so hard to find someone in my area to borrow a CAS or something....or just to buy a working one from a legit person on here.

$350 for a brand new one is going to own me pretty hard.

GSXRJJordan · 07-05-2010, 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspaeth

CAS

Figured it could be the CAS, pages ago. Sucks dude, buy a new one.

510-SR20DET · 07-05-2010, 02:00 AM

i say buy a new one. You'll save money in the long run.

2fast4y0u · 07-05-2010, 07:57 AM

after following this thread i want to send you mine just so u can check and see if its the CAS before u buy one....i think u r s14 sr and im s13 sr

mattsil80wis · 07-05-2010, 08:35 AM

cody is gonna call you in a bit

(we were doing a fireworks show when you called him last night)

we are gonna send you mine

240sxspeed · 07-06-2010, 10:10 PM

bkr8eix the only plug to run

240sxspeed · 07-06-2010, 10:12 PM

and if your air to fuel is anything under 11.6 which is still a bit rich at high rp,s your asking for a cracked ring land been there done that pull fuel and keep eye on wideband

codyace · 07-06-2010, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Figured it could be the CAS, pages ago. Sucks dude, buy a new one.

Hehe the only thing that seemed odd to us at first, was the intermittance of the issue, as well as the heat issue. I wouldn't have imagined heat playing a role with the little board in them, but I guess it does. While I wasn't a big believer in the coil packs being bad, I guess (and shame on me for overlooking it as well) there isn't much left to diagnose from.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240sxspeed

bkr8eix the only plug to run

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240sxspeed

and if your air to fuel is anything under 11.6 which is still a bit rich at high rp,s your asking for a cracked ring land been there done that pull fuel and keep eye on wideband

I understand you're trying to help, but the advice is a bit off and 'below' what we're trying to accomplish here. Also, the plugs, any will work just fine, just depends on how often you want to service them...and I prefer copper, as it will melt MUCH sooner than Iridium will...possibly saving an engine).....

Also anything in the 11's will be fine at this power level.

Ok advice, but not really pertinent to the thread.

Darius · 07-07-2010, 07:19 AM

You should really separate the white IGN power wire to the coils from the ECCS black/red power. The IGN wire draws a LOT of current and the ECU sharing the power source is not ideal (i.e. noise). Have you touched the ECCS relay after running the car until it starts to misfire to see if it is hot?

I would simply rewire the IGN to its own switched relay power to get it off of the ECCS relay. There's two relays there and Nissan engineers probably had a good reason for separating the power distribution like that. At least this way you will know it is wired, switched, and fused properly.

jspaeth · 07-07-2010, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darius

You should really separate the white IGN power wire to the coils from the ECCS black/red power. The IGN wire draws a LOT of current and the ECU sharing the power source is not ideal (i.e. noise). Have you touched the ECCS relay after running the car until it starts to misfire to see if it is hot?

I would simply rewire the IGN to its own switched relay power to get it off of the ECCS relay. There's two relays there and Nissan engineers probably had a good reason for separating the power distribution like that. At least this way you will know it is wired, switched, and fused properly.

I completely agree with you and would like to do this.

Part of the problem, for me, would be to find exactly WHERE the coilpack +12V wire actually is spliced into the power coming off the ECCS.

If I could find that splice point, I would just unsplice it and then wire it to the Ignition Coil Relay....

However, I am afraid it is spliced in somewhere in the middle of the harness that I can't get to or find.....and I am not about to pull my whole harness....don't want to upset any connections...

The next option would be to cut the +12V wire and then rewire it to the Ignition Coil.....

But then I have a hot wire floating there.....would it be sufficient to tape this off?

I dunno...haha

2fast4y0u · 07-08-2010, 06:54 AM

cut that wire off, put in a wire nut and tape the shit out of it

that should work great

jspaeth · 07-09-2010, 07:39 PM

FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK.

Just put in a KNOWN working CAS....and problem NOT SOLVED.

The car seems to start up a little smoother, and is not giving me the "no start problem" after the misfiring starts occurring..

However, the car still misses TERRIBLY around 4500 RPM.

I have tried TWO different CAS, TWO different IGNITOR CHIPS, and TWO different set so COILPACKS!!!!!

AHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

I can see fuel pressure, which is okay during the misfiring.

I can see alternator output, which is a steady 14.0......

Literally, the only thing left that seems like it could cause a complete misfire is that one of the signal wires from the CAS is not making good contact with the ECU pin?

....or that the ECU is somehow fucked up.....which will drive me crazy.....so much $$$

I would like to get the car to run on the stock ECU, but have been completely unable to do so, so far.....if I can do this, then I could see that the ECU is or is NOT the problem.

Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck.

mattsil80wis · 07-09-2010, 08:41 PM

do you wanna borrow an ecu tuned for your set up?

text me/PM me

201 519 6994

2fast4y0u · 07-11-2010, 05:02 PM

whats your exact setup?

jspaeth · 07-11-2010, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

whats your exact setup?

Late Model S13 SR Blacktop
Nismo/Tomei 740 CC Injectors
Aeromotive FPR
OEM or Splitfire Coils
52 Trim GT2871R
264/264 Step 2 HKS Cams
Apexi 1.1 mm HG
Greddy RAS
Greddy Intake Mani

PowerFC D-Jetro (MAP sensor) for late-model Blacktop S13 SR

I am about 99.999999% sure that the engine is mechanically sound and that the issue is being caused by something electrical (ECU or a sensor), but obviously there is that 0.00001%.

It is NOT the tune....the tune worked fine for 9 months.

2fast4y0u · 07-11-2010, 06:12 PM

i have a enthalpy rom tune for basically the same setup..i have 850cc i will send u a pm

jamanrr · 07-11-2010, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspaeth

Late Model S13 SR Blacktop
Nismo/Tomei 740 CC Injectors
Aeromotive FPR
OEM or Splitfire Coils
52 Trim GT2871R
264/264 Step 2 HKS Cams
Apexi 1.1 mm HG
Greddy RAS
Greddy Intake Mani

PowerFC D-Jetro (MAP sensor) for late-model Blacktop S13 SR

I am about 99.999999% sure that the engine is mechanically sound and that the issue is being caused by something electrical (ECU or a sensor), but obviously there is that 0.00001%.

It is NOT the tune....the tune worked fine for 9 months.

Man you have been through so many different things it leaves only the tune or ecu. You should have an Apexi PowerExcel tuner in your area? Hell they have to be certified by Tag himself to be one so they know what they are doing.

2fast4y0u · 07-12-2010, 06:45 AM

(insert yelling by jaspeth about how its NOT the tune )
ready......go

jspaeth · 07-12-2010, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

(insert yelling by jaspeth about how its NOT the tune )
ready......go

Hahaha it's NOT the tune!

This tune has worked for 10 months with no problem, and the air temp corrections are nowhere near large enough for it to be related to the hot weather.

Thank you for playing, good luck next time haha.....

But seriously, it may be the ECU, and then I may just have to take a sledgehammer to my car

xska · 07-12-2010, 10:08 AM

Did you try initializing Power-fc and install maps back in?
Also,did you try setting timing to all 20 degree and check actual timing at 4500?(by just revving in neutral).
If it's cas signal related, you can see timing bouncing around.
And what happens after 4500? dose runs good at 7000? or 4500 is like limiter?
There was one case i had problem with valve spring floating and it just dose it at 6000 and not after.

07-04-2010, 09:24 AM	#157
jspaeth Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Philadelphia suburbs Age: 40 Posts: 2,347 Trader Rating: (7) Rides Gallery: jspaeth Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Update!!!!!!! For those following my problem in this thread, please see a new thread that I have just created in Tech Talk.......I logged CAS voltages..... http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/330677...ml#post3525443 __________________ Daily driven

07-04-2010, 06:18 PM	#159
jspaeth Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Philadelphia suburbs Age: 40 Posts: 2,347 Trader Rating: (7) Rides Gallery: jspaeth Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Okay...update.... This may seem silly....now....it doesn't take much heat to initialize the issue, whereas before it took a while for it to kick in. started up the car, let it run for like 3 minutes, turned it off. When I turned it off, I couldn't start it....tried a few times, would NOT turn over for shit. So then, I go under the hood, and quickly take the cover off the CAS and put an ice pack on the plastic part where you can't "see" the disk....the part where the sender or reciever of the light beam must be contained. Leave the ice pack on for like 45 seconds.... Then the car starts up without much of an issue. Let it run again for 5 mintues, turn it off....try starting it like 5 times but no start. Ice pack on CAS....and voilla, it starts up. I NEED A CAS!!!!!!!!!!!! SOMEBODY PLEASE!!!!!! I am going nuts....I jsut bought 2 CAS off of someone on here, and they were sposed to get here this weekend, and sure as shit, the kid had some problems and never told me, and they were never even shipped. To make it worse, he later found out they weren't even working CAS....FUCK I am trying so hard to find someone in my area to borrow a CAS or something....or just to buy a working one from a legit person on here. $350 for a brand new one is going to own me pretty hard. __________________ Daily driven

07-05-2010, 02:00 AM	#163
510-SR20DET Zilvia Junkie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Aye Bay Bay Posts: 418 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	i say buy a new one. You'll save money in the long run. __________________ Originally Posted by EDaciouSX You should fix your opor* grammar.*

07-06-2010, 10:10 PM	#166
240sxspeed Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: DITRY JERSEY Age: 44 Posts: 288 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	bkr8eix the only plug to run __________________ HOME OF THE LOWBALLERS AND INTERNET THUGZ

07-06-2010, 10:12 PM	#167
240sxspeed Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: DITRY JERSEY Age: 44 Posts: 288 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	and if your air to fuel is anything under 11.6 which is still a bit rich at high rp,s your asking for a cracked ring land been there done that pull fuel and keep eye on wideband __________________ HOME OF THE LOWBALLERS AND INTERNET THUGZ

06-28-2010, 09:08 AM	#151
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	car does not have to be running to pull codes..just the key on. i was really hoping to see a post in big letters saying you solved the issue. im sad now. did you have all the mods to your car when you ran the stock ecu? that might be the reason it wont start. i never attempted to start my car after i put on the 2871 and 850 injectors. i got a rom tune, then i started it.

06-28-2010, 10:13 AM	#153
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	i see. well ic an tell you this becase im starting to deal with this issue as well. check that disc in the cas again. i think i remember you telling us its wasnt a bad dent but it was there. im installing a aem ems today and i have to order a new cas disc because theres an issue with SOME sr redtop discs and the ems. If it is something that AEM has found to be and issue, my guess is that this disc is pretty important.

06-30-2010, 03:22 PM	#154
US240MP Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Western Pa Posts: 18 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I know that I am obviously new to this site, but not to cars, and not to 240s... What are you using as the source power for your Coils? Is it sharing a circuit with something else? If it is, it may be that you are not getting enough current to the coils. Sure, you would still see 12v, but not enough current to produce a solid spark. If it shares its source with something else, buy a $.99 relay from an auto part store, wire it to output straight from a 12v source, (battery) w/ a fuse of course. Its a cheap and quick test to make sure that you are getting adequate current. As for everything else, way to stick with it... This thread has to be one of the best that I have read in a while...except for no one reading the entire thread and just throwing in their .02 that have been said by 10 ppl before them... Thanks

07-01-2010, 12:36 AM	#156
US240MP Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Western Pa Posts: 18 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I agree that it would be strange to have something soooo simple create such a problem all of a sudden... I just know that even simple electronics, not only hate heat with a passion, but also can randomly fail. When they fail they also can act inconsistently at random times... I am sure that in good circumstances that the ECU wouldn't be drawing enough current to effect it, but with age, heat, and abuse (vibrations)... Who knows... Good luck brah... I am looking forward to the outcome. The suspense is getting to me a lil... I might have to make popcorn every day I read this...lol

07-04-2010, 10:28 AM	#158
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	i to am trying to hunt down a similar issue now...went to the track on friday night and i can feel power loss around the 6k rpm range. it takes forever to get to redline now for some reason. my et's were TERRIBLE!!!

07-05-2010, 07:57 AM	#164
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	after following this thread i want to send you mine just so u can check and see if its the CAS before u buy one....i think u r s14 sr and im s13 sr

07-05-2010, 08:35 AM	#165
mattsil80wis Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: nj Age: 37 Posts: 391 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	cody is gonna call you in a bit (we were doing a fireworks show when you called him last night) we are gonna send you mine

07-07-2010, 07:19 AM	#169
Darius Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Chicago Posts: 346 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	You should really separate the white IGN power wire to the coils from the ECCS black/red power. The IGN wire draws a LOT of current and the ECU sharing the power source is not ideal (i.e. noise). Have you touched the ECCS relay after running the car until it starts to misfire to see if it is hot? I would simply rewire the IGN to its own switched relay power to get it off of the ECCS relay. There's two relays there and Nissan engineers probably had a good reason for separating the power distribution like that. At least this way you will know it is wired, switched, and fused properly.

07-08-2010, 06:54 AM	#171
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	cut that wire off, put in a wire nut and tape the shit out of it that should work great

07-09-2010, 07:39 PM	#172
jspaeth Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Philadelphia suburbs Age: 40 Posts: 2,347 Trader Rating: (7) Rides Gallery: jspaeth Feedback Score: 7 reviews	FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK. Just put in a KNOWN working CAS....and problem NOT SOLVED. The car seems to start up a little smoother, and is not giving me the "no start problem" after the misfiring starts occurring.. However, the car still misses TERRIBLY around 4500 RPM. I have tried TWO different CAS, TWO different IGNITOR CHIPS, and TWO different set so COILPACKS!!!!! AHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I can see fuel pressure, which is okay during the misfiring. I can see alternator output, which is a steady 14.0...... Literally, the only thing left that seems like it could cause a complete misfire is that one of the signal wires from the CAS is not making good contact with the ECU pin? ....or that the ECU is somehow fucked up.....which will drive me crazy.....so much $$$ I would like to get the car to run on the stock ECU, but have been completely unable to do so, so far.....if I can do this, then I could see that the ECU is or is NOT the problem. Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck. __________________ Daily driven

07-09-2010, 08:41 PM	#173
mattsil80wis Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: nj Age: 37 Posts: 391 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	do you wanna borrow an ecu tuned for your set up? text me/PM me 201 519 6994

07-11-2010, 05:02 PM	#174
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	whats your exact setup?

07-11-2010, 06:12 PM	#176
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	i have a enthalpy rom tune for basically the same setup..i have 850cc i will send u a pm

07-12-2010, 06:45 AM	#178
2fast4y0u Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 50 miles west of chicago Posts: 1,186 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	(insert yelling by jaspeth about how its NOT the tune ) ready......go

07-12-2010, 10:08 AM	#180
xska Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: torrance Age: 56 Posts: 39 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Did you try initializing Power-fc and install maps back in? Also,did you try setting timing to all 20 degree and check actual timing at 4500?(by just revving in neutral). If it's cas signal related, you can see timing bouncing around. And what happens after 4500? dose runs good at 7000? or 4500 is like limiter? There was one case i had problem with valve spring floating and it just dose it at 6000 and not after.