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Old 07-02-2015, 02:29 AM   #18421
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My steering isn't returning to center. Got an alignment, front toe and caster set to stock specs. Still won't return to center. I can literally take a corner with my hands off the wheel. Scary shit. What could cause this issue? Binding coils? (I hope not, I have new-ish FA 500's.) Clock spring? Evil curses?
replaced all of your bushings? changed out lower control arms with new ones that include new ball joints? running adjustable RUCA, Tension Rods, Toe Links, Traction rods? replaced your tie rods and tie rods with new or upgraded units? replaced your subframe spacers?

theres a lot to the picture youre not mentioning...
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:00 AM   #18422
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The vacuum line on the bottom of the throttle body cracked on my ka24de. My question is if the restrictor pill is necessary to have or can I just take it out. Thanks!
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:14 AM   #18423
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Hey, ran into an issue after I got my engine bay repainted. Reinstalled the wiper motor now I can't get the wipers to come to their proper resting spot. tried unbolting them several times and repositioning them with no luck. Is there a proper way to reset them?
anyone? msglngth
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Old 07-02-2015, 11:09 AM   #18424
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My s13 Convertible got broken into. Anyone know of a good convertible top replacement shop around San Diego area?
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:55 PM   #18425
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Ok, clutch question on s13 sr20 red top transmission. Car is sometimes not wanting to go in any gear when stopped. Usually I'll get it to go in 3rd and then I can bump to 1st to start moving. Today was the first time when I pulled back in to the driveway, waited for garage door to open and the car wouldn't go in gear. Clutch pedals I da felt normal to me, but when is push in to 1st gear the car started moving forward a bit. After a few tries it acted normally again I could pull in.

I'm guessing this is the slave cylinder going?
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:01 PM   #18426
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that is called clutch creep. either your slave or master cylinder is shot or (most likely) your clutch is WAY out of adjustment. if youre one of those guys who runs their pedals engagement almost at the floor, you need to properly adjust your clutch.

get under the bottom console with a 12mm wrench and a flash light. break the tension on the master cylinder input rod, start turning the rod so it pushes the clutch AWAY from the floor (while youre turning it, if you watch the pedal it will slowly go away or toward the firewall). your engagement so be no less than an inch from the floor. more play in the pedal is better than less! clutch creep means youre burning your clutch out.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:33 PM   #18427
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Ok thanks. My clutch does its engagement work about halfway down, it's fully disengaged before it hits the floor. I've been running that for 4 years now. So I'm guessing the Slave is the issue. I check my fluid, it's still where it always has been but it's dirty looking.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:31 PM   #18428
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Has any one installed ARP headstuds on Sr20 with out taking the head off?
Can it be done?
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:31 PM   #18429
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Quote:
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Ok thanks. My clutch does its engagement work about halfway down, it's fully disengaged before it hits the floor. I've been running that for 4 years now. So I'm guessing the Slave is the issue. I check my fluid, it's still where it always has been but it's dirty looking.
if its dark and still somewhat clear, thats fairly normal. if its become dark, milky and metallic, your slave cylinder has gone bad.
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Old 07-02-2015, 11:30 PM   #18430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13 View Post
replaced all of your bushings? changed out lower control arms with new ones that include new ball joints? running adjustable RUCA, Tension Rods, Toe Links, Traction rods? replaced your tie rods and tie rods with new or upgraded units? replaced your subframe spacers?

theres a lot to the picture youre not mentioning...

I've had urethane rack bushings, the adjustable arms you mentioned, and Moog rod ends for years. Otherwise, everything is factory, including the LCA's.

I asked about the clock spring and the front coilovers because those are the things that were changed out immediately prior to the problem. I also did a 5-lug swap with OEM parts, but the front requires no disassembly of the steering, just the hub itself.

For those who don't feel like going back a page- my steering won't return to center. Alignment is on point.
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:05 AM   #18431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teh smithers View Post
I've had urethane rack bushings, the adjustable arms you mentioned, and Moog rod ends for years. Otherwise, everything is factory, including the LCA's.

I asked about the clock spring and the front coilovers because those are the things that were changed out immediately prior to the problem. I also did a 5-lug swap with OEM parts, but the front requires no disassembly of the steering, just the hub itself.

For those who don't feel like going back a page- my steering won't return to center. Alignment is on point.
If your steering alignment is dead on, and your steering wheel is the only thing not returning to center, your actual steering wheel hub is not set at 12 o'clock.
If you get a steering wheel hub puller(Harbor freight has a set for under $20)
MAKE CERTAIN your wheels are as perfectly straight as possible before starting. Remove the steering wheel, and 'reclock' the HUB to correct center, then put it all back together.
If your issue is suspension related, my question is HOW THE FUCK DID IT GET OUT OF THE SHOP? And also, DID they even test drive it?
TAke it back, make them ride wiht you and SHOW THEM if it on them. If it;s on you, well, you got something wrong, look hard, find it, fix it, get it aligned again
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:59 AM   #18432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teh smithers View Post
I've had urethane rack bushings, the adjustable arms you mentioned, and Moog rod ends for years. Otherwise, everything is factory, including the LCA's.

I asked about the clock spring and the front coilovers because those are the things that were changed out immediately prior to the problem. I also did a 5-lug swap with OEM parts, but the front requires no disassembly of the steering, just the hub itself.

For those who don't feel like going back a page- my steering won't return to center. Alignment is on point.
Not that I'm any help, but my s13 is the same way. Alignment specs are how I wanted them, caster is oem spec. Car tracks straight but when I turn the wheel will not recenter itself and straighten back out. I've been away for a year and haven't had a chance to mess with it but someone had told me before it's probably my balljoints.
I've wondered if maybe my rack is shot but will do ball joints in a week or two and see what happens.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:07 AM   #18433
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Quote:
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if its dark and still somewhat clear, thats fairly normal. if its become dark, milky and metallic, your slave cylinder has gone bad.
I won't call it metallic but it's a tad bit of milky and is dark. I think I'll toss a z32 slave in any put new fluid through it. I have upgraded clutch so the larger slave should make the pedal feel better.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:45 AM   #18434
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does anyone make rear overs/flares larger than 50mm for s14?
If anyone else is looking in the future. I just found out they measure flares in CM instead of MM and they make 10cm flares which equates to nearly 4"....
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Old 07-03-2015, 02:21 PM   #18435
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Does anyone know what size are the banjo bolts used for a 300zx master cylinder? Thanks!
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Old 07-03-2015, 03:08 PM   #18436
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Has any one installed ARP headstuds on Sr20 with out taking the head off?
Can it be done?
Bump for a noob question
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Old 07-03-2015, 03:49 PM   #18437
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I don't see why it can't be done, but it isn't the right way to do it. I strongly suggest doing it the right way.
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:48 PM   #18438
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s13 clutch pedal in s13 240

Can you use the s13 clutch pedal in a 240? I just ask cuz when i looked it up nothing came up. There also is alot of s13 clutch pedals on ebay, so i figured i might be able to save some money.

They're in the same order for RHD so it should work right?
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:52 PM   #18439
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Can you use the s13 clutch pedal in a 240? I just ask cuz when i looked it up nothing came up. There also is alot of s13 clutch pedals on ebay, so i figured i might be able to save some money.

They're in the same order for RHD so it should work right?
so just to confirm, you're wondering if a rhd S13 clutch pedal will work on a lhd S13 chassis, correct?
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:44 AM   #18440
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so just to confirm, you're wondering if a rhd S13 clutch pedal will work on a lhd S13 chassis, correct?
Yes , I searched and really all that came up was using s13 pedal in an s14 or vice versa, nothing about RHD in LHD .
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Old 07-04-2015, 10:28 PM   #18441
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96 240, s13sr.. Any issues with leaving the evap line unhooked on the engine bay? I dont notice any issues so far with doing it other then the tank never having any pressure in it when I take off the gas cap..
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:56 AM   #18442
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96 240, s13sr.. Any issues with leaving the evap line unhooked on the engine bay? I dont notice any issues so far with doing it other then the tank never having any pressure in it when I take off the gas cap..
Gas tank never has pressure! it has a vacuum. What you hear when you open the gas tank is a inrush of air into the tank, not out. Besides it smelling like gasoline and an occasional fire in the engine bay, you are good to go! If you are not going to hook it up, then remove the lines completely or disconnect the lines at the gas tank so the vapors (you know, the flammable part of the gasoline) escape as far away from the hot engine as possible
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:09 AM   #18443
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Will do thanks!
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:04 PM   #18444
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After my fuel pump primes, the fuel pressure drops to zero. What gives?
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:17 PM   #18445
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I installed new shocks on s13hatch and ride height went up.
This normal?
I'm on sportline springs agx shocks.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:01 PM   #18446
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I installed new shocks on s13hatch and ride height went up.
This normal?
I'm on sportline springs agx shocks.
Probably need some time to settle.
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:21 PM   #18447
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Question and quick info.. I'm about to do an RB26 swap in my s13. I've done an RB25 swap and used a GTS-T r33 crossmember to s13 with a syko mount kit. I just ordered an R32 RB26 clip.

I hear the crossmember on the GTR sits different so that means I would probably need a longer driveshaft if I use the syko kit again...

Are they different?
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Old 07-08-2015, 02:41 PM   #18448
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I tried looking on google but some of the information is outdated. Is there a difference between a s13 and s14 transmission?
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Old 07-08-2015, 02:57 PM   #18449
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I tried looking on google but some of the information is outdated. Is there a difference between a s13 and s14 transmission?
For the usdm KA tranny's no. They are interchangable.
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:01 PM   #18450
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I installed tein h-tech springs on kyb gr2 that were on the car already about 6-8 months ago and the rear passenger side looks like it's at stock height in person. I tried to redo the rear passenger shock/spring to see if I missed anything but nothing changed when I put it all back together. Anyone got an idea why the passenger side is so high? Its like 2-3inchs over rear driver side. I also have aftermarket arms but I installed them a few months after the springs.
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