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Old 03-12-2016, 10:54 AM   #19351
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Don't give advice if you don't know what the fuck your are talking about.


You can easily support the engine with a cherry picker. Guys also use a jack, but I wouldn't do that unless you have an aftermarket aluminum cast pan.
it would be much easier with the engine out though,

If he has baby hands, and wants to lean the engine over thats fine, I wouldn't enjoy doing it that way.
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Old 03-12-2016, 11:28 AM   #19352
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Everything is easier when the engine is out, but who wants to add that hassle to what ever they're doing?
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Old 03-12-2016, 11:43 AM   #19353
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Everything is easier when the engine is out, but who wants to add that hassle to what ever they're doing?

And cost. Pulling the engine requires at minimum a coolant flush and new transmission fluid.

It's a mess and a pita.
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:04 PM   #19354
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And cost. Pulling the engine requires at minimum a coolant flush and new transmission fluid.

It's a mess and a pita.

Cutting the shit out of your hands while trying to work in a tight space is also a pita .

Just gotta pick your poison I guess


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Old 03-12-2016, 01:05 PM   #19355
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Originally Posted by kashira kureijii View Post
Cutting the shit out of your hands while trying to work in a tight space is also a pita .

Just gotta pick your poison I guess

Sorry for the soft girly hands.

Be a Mak and suck it up.
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Old 03-12-2016, 04:15 PM   #19356
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Sorry for the soft girly hands.

Be a Mak and suck it up.
having soft hands makes it easier to whack it tho

It's just a never ending cycle of losing
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:00 PM   #19357
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After scouring the Electrical portion of the FSM I still cannot identify the parts Im interested in, Im turning to you guys to hopefully help me out.

First, I spotted a mysterious box underneath the trunk, by the passenger side rear wheel, closer to bumper, and I do not know what it is bc I do see some harness connections there. I think this is the charcoal canister. (EDIT)

Next, adjacent to my steering wheel is a bulgy red light, it does not turn on and Id like to know what it is supposed to indicate.

Lastly, I recently purchased an AC trim that came with the array of 4 horizontal buttons, the left-most one has a red bulb and wires running from behind it; mine doesnt have them, is that possibly security system? Either way, I need to identify it too.

<3

Last edited by DJTTon; 03-12-2016 at 05:52 PM..
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:00 PM   #19358
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Lastly, I recently purchased an AC trim that came with the array of 4 horizontal buttons, the left-most one has a red bulb and wires running from behind it; mine doesnt have them, is that possibly security system? Either way, I need to identify it too.
Yes it is security system.
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:01 PM   #19359
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Well, I currently dont have one... Inb4 I get shit for lack of security (I know) but what should I do with it then? I might replace the button with the blank oem one
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:22 PM   #19360
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You absolutely do not have to pull the motor to change the mounts.
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:11 AM   #19361
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Can I use r33 rb25det piston ring on a rb25det neo??? I know neo rings have a different part number but I already have a set from an r33. Thanks!!!!
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:07 AM   #19362
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IACV cut connector harness

The other day I noticed that the purple connector in the picture is cut on my KA, Ive been doing a lot of research on this but all I can tell is that its part of the overall smog/emissions/Idle Air Control Valve system and that theyre all inter-connected.

Im wondering what I should do bc I know many folks take out that part of their cars because its irrelevant (btw 95 zenki) and Im wondering if I should do the same. I really cant tell any bad symptoms of the car's performance bc Im not experienced yet but Im looking for input on this topic


Credit goes to user GUZZLE7 who posted this photo in another thread
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:07 AM   #19363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e1_griego View Post
You absolutely do not have to pull the motor to change the mounts.
Damn...
Reading through this thread on motor mounts was like watching the school bully go at the retarded kid. Just plain stupid.

Get a jack and four of those wooden auto dollys from Harbor Freight. Jack that bitch up, set the dollys under the tires, then get under it and loosen the motor mounts. Now jack that fucking block up enough to pull those janky assed old mounts and toss them. Now you can easily place the new sweet aftermarket mounts, drop the block back on, remove the dollys, and get back to dailying your street racer.
For fucks sake, it's the easiest part to change outside the valve stem cap...smmfh

W just swapped out a blown KA for a S15 SR20, and those mounts were freakin easy. Before that it was done in a different car so yeah, its like skill level one shit. Now you bullys stop teasing the retarded kids and get back to 240ing
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:54 AM   #19364
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@DJTTon if it's not doing any harm I'd leave it alone. If you can, you should block off the EGR and just leave the air solenoids alone. That's how my KA is and it's fine
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:02 AM   #19365
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WEll thats the thing, idk if any harm is being done. So far only the purple connector doesnt have any wires running to it, its been cut. Everything else is in place. The solenoids and the EGR intake
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:29 AM   #19366
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Does anybody know if the isis power steering line requires a copper washer where it connects to the rack? It didnt come with one and the OE line didnt have one there either.
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:35 AM   #19367
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Does anybody know if the isis power steering line requires a copper washer where it connects to the rack? It didnt come with one and the OE line didnt have one there either.
no, they don't.
I put teflon on mine just cuz it makes me feel good, but if you do that, make sure there's no way the teflon get's into the power steering system, because it has a fair amount of small holes, and you don't want to mess it up.
I just put the teflon on the back half of the threads. you probably don't need any teflon, I was just sorta taught to put teflon on like everything for no reason
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:45 AM   #19368
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Awesome. Thanks man!
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:14 AM   #19369
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Originally Posted by DJTTon View Post
WEll thats the thing, idk if any harm is being done. So far only the purple connector doesnt have any wires running to it, its been cut. Everything else is in place. The solenoids and the EGR intake
Sounds like you need a new sub harness then. Or go to a junk yard and snip off a compatible connector
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:17 AM   #19370
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Would you be able to PM me and briefly describe what that missing part does though?
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:46 PM   #19371
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Interested in the bolt on roll cage from cusco and found they have two types. One is the regular one and the other safety 21 thats steel. Does anyone know which one is better. Looking to install a 6 point
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:50 PM   #19372
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So this is weird.

I've been driving my car a lot recently, and I noticed that my right side front wheel doesn't fit as well as it did when I put the new wheels on a few weeks ago.
There's about a finger's width of gap, and before I couldn't even fit a credit card in there.
The alignment doesn't feel any different at all and no arms are bent.

What the hell did I do?
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Old 03-14-2016, 12:43 AM   #19373
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So this is weird.

I've been driving my car a lot recently, and I noticed that my right side front wheel doesn't fit as well as it did when I put the new wheels on a few weeks ago.
There's about a finger's width of gap, and before I couldn't even fit a credit card in there.
The alignment doesn't feel any different at all and no arms are bent.

What the hell did I do?
when was the last time your changed your lower control arm bushings and ball joints?
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:55 AM   #19374
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Quote:
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Sorry for the soft girly hands.

Be a Mak and suck it up.
x2


You're a complete ass-hat if you pull a motor/transmission to replace engine mounts.
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:03 AM   #19375
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Was hoping I could find out the problem myself but I'm stumped.

My RB would Idle for a bit but as soon as I pressed the gas it would bog and die(It has a z32 maf so I kinda just thought its because I don't have a tune yet). I got lucky probably one or two times where I could make it rev. Told my self Il try to fix out this problem next week.

A week later.... now all it does is start then immediately dies. I'm pretty sure its something fuel related because I had changed my igniter and it wouldn't start (but fuel is still going to the engine) I changed out to my other igniter that makes the car start and it began to idle for a few seconds before dying. Makes me think not enough fuel is going to the engine?? Yet I have an upgraded fuel pump but a stock FPR.
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Old 03-14-2016, 12:52 PM   #19376
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Would using motorkote on a 160k KA24de engine be beneficial? My dad wants to use some but idk if itll do any harm
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Old 03-14-2016, 01:03 PM   #19377
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Would using motorkote on a 160k KA24de engine be beneficial? My dad wants to use some but idk if itll do any harm
sorry but could you elaborate more on what MOTORKOTE product you are wanting use. Such as running their motor oil or using additives like sludge remover n such....
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:37 PM   #19378
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I think he's referring to the motor oil lubricant
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:06 PM   #19379
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Quick question probably dumb question, but will running an fat o2 sensor for a sr20 on a redtop ecu and red top engine throw everything out of whack?
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:44 PM   #19380
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Quick question probably dumb question, but will running an fat o2 sensor for a sr20 on a redtop ecu and red top engine throw everything out of whack?
Should be matched up to the ECU since the fat and skinny types read differently.
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