Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Agent S14]

quick question I bought bride digo II seats im just worried if I buy the bride rails it will sit too high on the 240 anyone have these seats on their S14 and if so what rails did you get and did the seats sit low like oem.


thanks

[derass]

Are they side-mount or bottom-mount?

[Db240s13]

I need s13 oem fenders no pop ups Long Island pleaseeeee help me

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Db240s13

I need s13 oem fenders no pop ups Long Island pleaseeeee help me

perhaps you should try our Marketplace before posting in the wrong section of the forums like you did above...

[Jibbberish]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Some people including my car runs without an O2 sensor. Previous owner just swapped it for a wideband.

Have you tried swapping the MAF (with someone local) and/or disconnecting the AFC entirely? If something funky is happening at the MAF, SAFC and anywhere in between those and the ECU it could cause all kinds of weird problems.

I don't know much about the AFC Neo, can it tell you the raw MAF voltage? If so check that at idle then compare to what it should be for stock SR20's. If you are confirmed leak free and the voltage is way off, it might very well be the MAF.

Heck a quicker test would be to just disconnect your MAF (and AFC) and see how your idle does.

It gives the MAF reading as "AFL" percentage. Reads like 1.4% at idle. Disconnect the MAF and the car just dies.

Originally Posted by codyace

It will run without an o2, it then relies upon a preset value and the TPS.

With that said, have you verified TPS is ok? A shit o2 and a shit TPS reading can make it do wacky stuff for sure.

Probed the TPS and it's at .5v at idle, and around 4v at WOT. I know the spec at idle is .45v but I couldn't seem to adjust it any lower than .5v

[AllThingsGravy]

Quick question, is there a shorter option for the stock sr20det t25 compressor outlet? My hot pipe fitment is so bad. My go to is to find a shorter compressor outlet but if not possible ill get a good hotpipe. Thanks guys.

[ProjectPanda13]

Would changing spring rates from 7/5 kg to 10/8 kg need me to revalve my Cusco 2R on my S13?
Latez.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by ProjectPanda13

Would changing spring rates from 7/5 kg to 10/8 kg need me to revalve my Cusco 2R on my S13?
Latez.

probably not, but why are you going harder?

[Corbic]

KA24 same Pressure Plate bolts as the SR?

[AnonymousBlackX]

Ok list of mods and yell at me after

S14 sr20det
Fmic
S15 dbb t28
Walbro 255
Nistune
Z32 maf-on its way
740cc Tomie injectors -will be on b4 tune
Nismo fpr-will be on before tune
3in turbo back exhaust

What number would I be able to push with these mods, it sits at 212hp without maf injectors and fpr.

Also is a fuel rail needed when upgrading the injectors and fpr?

Thanks in advance I'm just looking for a reliable 290-300hp

Is that achieveable?

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by Corbic

KA24 same Pressure Plate bolts as the SR?

they're both 10mm and the same thread, I don't see any reason why they wouldn't work.

I recently used some ka pressure plate bolts on my RB, pretty sure everything would be fine, as long as you use all of them or use a ka bolt and make sure the bolt opposite is a ka bolt. shouldn't matter but that's what I did when I snapped one. Of course torque them down to be pretty equal to all the others.

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by Jibbberish

It gives the MAF reading as "AFL" percentage. Reads like 1.4% at idle. Disconnect the MAF and the car just dies.

I've never tried on mine but I believe that on normal conditions the car should be able to idle somewhat normally with the MAF disconnected.

[derass]

Originally Posted by AnonymousBlackX

Ok list of mods

...

Also is a fuel rail needed when upgrading the injectors and fpr?

Thanks in advance I'm just looking for a reliable 290-300hp

Is that achieveable?

I know of 3 people that made 300whp with a T28. dorkidori_s13 just posted his success here, post 25:

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=626306

dorki was on E85, the 2nd person, my pal, was just on pump, and I'm not sure what fuel the 3rd person was using.

As for an upgraded fuel rail, it's not required for your power goals. The stock one is fine up to 400whp.

[ProjectPanda13]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

probably not, but why are you going harder?

I am not slammed but during autocross, in the tight corners and transitions, the coilover compress enough that the wheel hits the wheel well and causes me to bounce. I had to raise the car up to remedy the problem. I want to go lower but have a stiffer suspension to keep from rolling. I'm not sure if 10/8 was too aggressive or if I should do 9/7 or something.

Latez.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

[Jorgs_7]

Ok WTF:

Bought S14 with claimed "Z32 VLSD"... took apart rear end.

In fact does have z32 vlsd. Noticed, axle just kinda fell out. (Don't recall which). Removed axles, cleaned and reassembled. Nothing fits right. Axles aren't all the way into the diff. I'm confused and wondering WTF.

Upon research, the current axles I own, are OE 6 bolt open diff S14 axles.... which does not work. (Rear undercarriage was nasty, greasy, etc.).. makes sens now

So it looks like I have 2 options:

Get 95+ J30 stubs (6 bolt, 2x3)
Or get VLSD complete s14 axle assemblies. (5 bolt, but lengths are right?)

Any thoughts here? Little pissed about this, lease ends in 30 days :/

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by ProjectPanda13

I am not slammed but during autocross, in the tight corners and transitions, the coilover compress enough that the wheel hits the wheel well and causes me to bounce. I had to raise the car up to remedy the problem. I want to go lower but have a stiffer suspension to keep from rolling. I'm not sure if 10/8 was too aggressive or if I should do 9/7 or something.

Latez.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

For handling, you want stiff swaybars, as in, a 1.5" up front, and a .75" in back. This should prevent the BODY ROLL that is causing your tire to rub. A mild negative camber adjustment, while shitty on the street for tire wear, is really nice on the Auto X. For coils, you can do the math, but you should look at 750# dampers up front, and 620# in back(The 240 takes the same suspension tuning as a 65-66 stripped mustang coupe, has the same weight bias, but is way better due to the DeDion styled indy rear suspension). If you run a 225 - 235 low profile tire up front, that has a bit of stretch, you should be ok. 225 doesn't rub, but 235 may on the inside up front. The rear can take a bit more tire, but a square set up turns in far better and rotates through the corner easier.
If you really want to set your car up right, go to a track shop, and have the thing properly set up, corner balanced, and adjusted. Your lap times will thank you in huge amounts

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by ProjectPanda13

I am not slammed but during autocross, in the tight corners and transitions, the coilover compress enough that the wheel hits the wheel well and causes me to bounce. I had to raise the car up to remedy the problem. I want to go lower but have a stiffer suspension to keep from rolling. I'm not sure if 10/8 was too aggressive or if I should do 9/7 or something.

Latez.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

the thing with making the car harder via spring rates will remove some of your body roll (and compression in the damper), however, you will be more prone to oversteer in corners (aka drifting). autocross based suspension tends to be softer as you want a bit of compression for cornering. uping your spring rates may be the direction you want to go, but raising the car was actually the correct way to fix the problem you were running into.

how old are your Cusco dampers? have you tried turning up the damping on them? what size wheels/tires are you running?

[ProjectPanda13]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

the thing with making the car harder via spring rates will remove some of your body roll (and compression in the damper), however, you will be more prone to oversteer in corners (aka drifting). autocross based suspension tends to be softer as you want a bit of compression for cornering. uping your spring rates may be the direction you want to go, but raising the car was actually the correct way to fix the problem you were running into.

how old are your Cusco dampers? have you tried turning up the damping on them? what size wheels/tires are you running?

Wheel setup wise, I am on 235/40/17 square. I am on the stiffest setting, 5. The shocks have no more than 2 years worth of use and rides well around the street. I had the Zero-1 before upgrading to the Zero-2R, and the 1 was soft without damping adjustability.

Thanks,
Latez.

[Agent S14]

Originally Posted by derass

Are they side-mount or bottom-mount?

Bottom mount

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by ProjectPanda13

Wheel setup wise, I am on 235/40/17 square. I am on the stiffest setting, 5. The shocks have no more than 2 years worth of use and rides well around the street. I had the Zero-1 before upgrading to the Zero-2R, and the 1 was soft without damping adjustability.

Thanks,
Latez.

go with the harder spring rates, see what happens seems like youve got a well rounded setup so i dont think the spring rates are really going to hurt anything!

[ProjectPanda13]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

go with the harder spring rates, see what happens seems like youve got a well rounded setup so i dont think the spring rates are really going to hurt anything!

Thanks for the input. I have a Cusco front sway that I will be installing also. In the rear I have the thicker 17mm S13 sway bar.

Latez.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Yeah, even a Spec would only be $150 for a disk.

Just called NAPA l, they wanted $65 to surface the flywheel. Jesus H Christ.

Need to call around. Nothing's ever easy.

65 isn't really that bad, still cheaper than a new flywheel.

Originally Posted by gryphon

So before I put everything back together, my question is: would running on 3 of 4 cylinders cause the timing to be off?

Thanks in advance to any help

Won't make any difference at all in regard to the timing light

With that said, set engine to TDC, line marks up on the distributor, and send it in.

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Quick question, is there a shorter option for the stock sr20det t25 compressor outlet? My hot pipe fitment is so bad. My go to is to find a shorter compressor outlet but if not possible ill get a good hotpipe. Thanks guys.

Nothing aftermarket, but how is it not fitting? Got pics?

Originally Posted by ProjectPanda13

I am not slammed but during autocross, in the tight corners and transitions, the coilover compress enough that the wheel hits the wheel well and causes me to bounce. I had to raise the car up to remedy the problem. I want to go lower but have a stiffer suspension to keep from rolling. I'm not sure if 10/8 was too aggressive or if I should do 9/7 or something.

Welcome to owning an slammed s14 with a big tire up front. It happens. I just recently cut/tubbed mine because of this. I like low, I like caster, and I was tired of bouncing the 265 off the shock tower/fender lip thing haha.

[Javi802]

Does anybody know what AAC% is supposed to be at idle? Ive read a lot of different answers.

Mine sits at 8% on a completely warmed up engine. Timing is correct at 15btdc(checked with a timing light and put in to base idle mode via NDS) and idle is at abour 850rpm.

From what ive been reading, i believe my aac% is too low

[Crazyced]

Thinking of using an MTX-L 0-1v output to simulate the stock narrowband O2 sensor on my s14 SR20 ECU but I read somewhere that the ECU will check for the presence of the sensor's heating element before using it's input (rendering the simulation useless)

Is that true?

[smartoss]

Does anyone have a picture of the bolt to secure this bracket on the kouki bumper reinforcement? The standard m6 bolts don't have a large enough washer.

http://imgur.com/bfK2TBK?r

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by smartoss

Does anyone have a picture of the bolt to secure this bracket on the kouki bumper reinforcement? The standard m6 bolts don't have a large enough washer.

http://imgur.com/bfK2TBK?r

Don't have a pic, but it's a normal bolt with a huge washer. Whole lot of adjustment room.

[derass]

Are S13 zenki and chuki front fender markers the same?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Javi802

Does anybody know what AAC% is supposed to be at idle? Ive read a lot of different answers.

Mine sits at 8% on a completely warmed up engine. Timing is correct at 15btdc(checked with a timing light and put in to base idle mode via NDS) and idle is at abour 850rpm.

From what ive been reading, i believe my aac% is too low

Honestly, I'm not even sure what is considered 'normal', but in the other side of things, if it's working and not being wonky, I'd almost not worry?

I just looked over my datalogs and never once even ticked the box to check AAC value

BUT I then looked at my friends cars (BlankZenkS14 on here, Kyle) and his seems to be around 50% at idle, only moving between 45 an 65% through the revs

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Thinking of using an MTX-L 0-1v output to simulate the stock narrowband O2 sensor on my s14 SR20 ECU but I read somewhere that the ECU will check for the presence of the sensor's heating element before using it's input (rendering the simulation useless)

Is that true?

It may throw an o2 code for circuit, but it wont' cause the ECU to not work or accept the narrowband output properly.

Originally Posted by smartoss

Does anyone have a picture of the bolt to secure this bracket on the kouki bumper reinforcement? The standard m6 bolts don't have a large enough washer.

http://imgur.com/bfK2TBK?r

Just get a bolt and buy some 'fender washers'

[sentradude]

When do you REALLY need adjustable control arms? If I am only lowering max 2" on strut/spring (no coilovers), daily driver do I really need them?

[Itsuki Takeuchi]

Originally Posted by sentradude

When do you REALLY need adjustable control arms? If I am only lowering max 2" on strut/spring (no coilovers), daily driver do I really need them?

NO. You do not need them.

you dont need them with coilovers either but you will suffer from camber wear.

with lowering springs, you wont notice a thing. prolly wont notice any difference in ride height either lol