Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Alex_Zenki

Doing ball joints in my rlca. I have an s14 for reference btw. I searched for what I would consider to be all over and got the information I thought I needed to do this. Went to advance and picked up b13 Sentra ball joints. However, I pressed the rears out and measured to find out the b13 Sentra ball joints are a little under 2mm thinner Han the stock. So there's play when I set it in position in the rlca. What can I do. Is there a way to still use these or should I return and try a different ball joint. I'm pretty sure I had purchased the right ones especially since the Internet said my s14 rears were 38mm not 41mm and change. Thanks

Everything I've read has the rear ball joints as the same as the front on an S14. Haven't verified personally, though.

[DJTTon]

Does anyone know what material transmission mounts are made of?

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

what material

Rubber.




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[DJTTon]

So that would offer more vibration absorption whereas those polyurethane ones would be more solid? so vibrating the car more?

This is for a daily btw

Has anyone used the Circuit Sports or ISR solid trans bushing? I was thinking of making my own from like a rubber compound. But I need dimensions

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

So that would offer more vibration absorption whereas those polyurethane ones would be more solid? so vibrating the car more?

This is for a daily btw

Has anyone used the Circuit Sports or ISR solid trans bushing? I was thinking of making my own from like a rubber compound. But I need dimensions

if you want some kick ass poly mounts, go buy a full set of these...

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=515316

just do it, youll thank me later! best engine mounts i have ever owned!

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

if you want some kick ass poly mounts, go buy a full set of these...

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=515316

just do it, youll thank me later! best engine mounts i have ever owned!

Ive actually seen the thread yesterday. I will definitely get these when I own the car I want to go all the way with. Unfortunately that's not the current situation. Im trying to stay low budget yet effective for this one

[jared420sx]

I plan on slamming my car in the next few weeks but i have my subframe out and wanted to powder coat it to prevent rust. But then i realized im slamming my car lol would it be worth it or would it just crack off? Should i go with por15 instead or just leave it and ride it out please help i just wana finish my suspension and drive it asap lol

[tacobellman_2007]

For those of you who have dealt with both, what are the primary differences between the replica 180SX Dmax Type III aero kit sold by Fineline Tuning and an authentic 180SX Dmax Type III aero kit BESIDES pricing and the Dmax logo?

Is fitment shit on the Fineline Tuning kit or can you not even tell the difference?
Is material significantly thicker on the authentic kit?

[Yes I've already seen this thread: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=606686]

[Mister.E]

Biggest difference would be that you could probably actually get a hold of a DMAX kit. Trying to get in touch with Fineline makes you want to repeatedly punch yourself in the fucking face. They literally have the worst customer service of any business I've ever dealt with.

[theStig880]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

For those of you who have dealt with both, what are the primary differences between the replica 180SX Dmax Type III aero kit sold by Fineline Tuning and an authentic 180SX Dmax Type III aero kit BESIDES pricing and the Dmax logo?

Is fitment shit on the Fineline Tuning kit or can you not even tell the difference?
Is material significantly thicker on the authentic kit?

[Yes I've already seen this thread: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=606686]

I've had Fineline's 180sx rep skirts and they were very thin. The fitment was pretty decent but when they arrived there was a crack in one and some uneven spots. I also didn't like that you could clearly tell that they just laid the two pieces of a real skirt to make a mold which made a line visible. Not sure on the DMAX kit but I figured Id throw my two cents for the company.

[AllThingsGravy]

Alright so I changed the HG on my Ka24de and all put back together the car is misfiring and idle is jumping up and down. I know I timed the car right. Higher rpms the misfire goes away. I'm leaning towards a fuel injector clogged or leaking. Any help is appreciated. I just changed the plugs and wires.

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[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Alright so I changed the HG on my Ka24de and all put back together the car is misfiring and idle is jumping up and down. I know I timed the car right. Higher rpms the misfire goes away. I'm leaning towards a fuel injector clogged or leaking. Any help is appreciated. I just changed the plugs and wires.

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Unplug 1 injector at a time while the engines running, and you should be able to identify which injector is bad that way. The miss will stop when you disconnect the right injector (if thats whats wrong haha). Or you can do it by unplugging one spark plug wire at a time, i dont remember what i did last time. Anyway you should be able to tell what"s wrong right away


Edit: i remember now. You disconnect 1 at a time. If you have a good injector the engine will start to run even worse, if you pulled the shit injector, you will notice no change, the engine will run the same or better.

Then you just gotta get some new injectors if thats the deal

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[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

Unplug 1 injector at a time while the engines running, and you should be able to identify which injector is bad that way. The miss will stop when you disconnect the right injector (if thats whats wrong haha). Or you can do it by unplugging one spark plug wire at a time, i dont remember what i did last time. Anyway you should be able to tell what"s wrong right away


Edit: i remember now. You disconnect 1 at a time. If you have a good injector the engine will start to run even worse, if you pulled the shit injector, you will notice no change, the engine will run the same or better.

Then you just gotta get some new injectors if thats the deal

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Alight so boom all my injectors work and none are leaking. Car is timed correctly but there it still a misfire. Also sounds like some tapping in the head and a vacuum leak by the intake mani. I cleaned the maf and TB.

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[ADIDASilvias]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Everything I've read has the rear ball joints as the same as the front on an S14. Haven't verified personally, though.

I can verify that the fronts are the same as the rear on a S14. Swapped mine out about a month ago, with identical ball joints. They pressed right in and are tight like they should be on the rear control arms.

[ADIDASilvias]

Quick question for RB owners that have done the LS coil pack conversion. I am looking for spark plug wires, and all the threads discussing the swap show a straight (180deg) end on the spark plug end. Do they need to be straight, or could a 45deg end work?

I haven't started disassembly of my engine to know whether there are clearance issues around the plug that would not allow anything other than a straight end. I have my eye on some Taylor Cable 409 Pro wires (8mm) but they have a 45 degree plug end.

Thanks!

[jared420sx]

Any one ever deal with vivid racing was tbinking about buying a pair of gp sport led mirror covers

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

Any one ever deal with vivid racing was tbinking about buying a pair of gp sport led mirror covers

Looking at their site, they are sickly overpriced for everything aero. I would look elsewhere. A Type N full body kit is usually under $500(made of FRP) and not the over $900 they sell for. They say CALL for mirror related prices...this means they are below MSRP, but the prices may be suspect or the quality suspect

[DJTTon]

Any brake experts here? I have a few questions regarding my situation

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Any brake experts here? I have a few questions regarding my situation

Depends. What are you looking at? Lay it out man, ask away!

[AllThingsGravy]

Blowing smoke into the ka24de TB for a smoke test the best spot to find vacuum leaks at the intake mani?

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[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Depends. What are you looking at? Lay it out man, ask away!

Well, low brake pedal with the car on, have to apply a decent amount of force to really get the car to stop. Seems like 70% of the stroke goes to waste if im trying to stop the car from, say, 40 mph to 0. Funny thing is though, if I'm at a slight incline and can tell that car will roll if I let go of the brake, then I can just apply the pedal to about 50% of the stroke and that will keep the brake in place ie the brake(s) are/is engaged. So like if I keep the pedal pressed at say 50% of the stroke either one or two brakes seems to be slightly working and then if I jam the brake pedal all the way down, then the car fully stops. With the car off, I can pump the brake pedal but it is kinda easy, with moderate resistance, to push it all the way down.

Stock brakes btw.

No fluid loss, system has been bled twice before with proper technique. Pads still have more than half life in them.

also, what can cause a creaky clutch pedal?

[David48]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Blowing smoke into the ka24de TB for a smoke test the best spot to find vacuum leaks at the intake mani?

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Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the check valve on the firewall and do it through there.

[whateveryouwant]

hey does anyone know if i can swap the output shafts from my oe s14 diff into my j30 diff? if its possible id rather do that than spend unecessary $$ on j30 axles

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by whateveryouwant

hey does anyone know if i can swap the output shafts from my oe s14 diff into my j30 diff? if its possible id rather do that than spend unecessary $$ on j30 axles

Someone correct me if Im wrong, but no theyre not compatible. Youll need other axles. You should do your research on this, there are countless articles on this and theyre stupidly easy to find. Dont be stupid

[whateveryouwant]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Someone correct me if Im wrong, but no theyre not compatible. Youll need other axles. You should do your research on this, there are countless articles on this and theyre stupidly easy to find. Dont be stupid

ok just wanted to make sure that wasn't an option, thanks

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by whateveryouwant

ok just wanted to make sure that wasn't an option, thanks

Seriously, look into it and you will see what your options are.

[AllThingsGravy]

My Ka24de is idling rough and misfiring, the misfiring goes away after 3k rpms. There are no vacuum leaks after blowing smoke into the break booster line and smoke only coming out after the maf. When the car idles I hear what appears to be a vacuum leak near the intake mani and fuel rail. I'm stumped.

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[sentradude]

I want adjustable arms for my S13 but I do not want ones with HEIM joints and want to retain rubber/poly bushings for DD, what are my options?

[e1_griego]

SPC is the only option for that.

They're meh.

Poly bushings don't work right in the rear multilink, they just cause bind.

Just grab some voodoo/spl/bv arms and it'll be fine for dd, esp in AZ.

[ADIDASilvias]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Well, low brake pedal with the car on, have to apply a decent amount of force to really get the car to stop. Seems like 70% of the stroke goes to waste if im trying to stop the car from, say, 40 mph to 0.

[SNIP]

Stock brakes btw.

No fluid loss, system has been bled twice before with proper technique. Pads still have more than half life in them.

Sounds like almost exactly what my '02 Pathfinder brakes feel like. I thought it was the master cylinder, so I swapped it out, with no change. Brakes bled several times. Pad wear is fairly even side to side in front and rear, and rear adjuster is set correctly for proper braking force. At this point I am thinking it is a overactive brake booster (google it) or the stock brake lines need changing and are expanding a lot under braking force.

Wish I had a solid answer for you. Yours still could be the master cylinder though.

Once I get the 240 back on the road I am tearing the Pathfinder apart and hopefully will figure out the issue. The truck will stop, but it is really annoying.

Originally Posted by DJTTon

also, what can cause a creaky clutch pedal?

Lol, if it doesn't creak, it's not a 240sx. I've greased/lubed about everything on mine and it still creaks.