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Old 09-19-2016, 09:25 AM   #20221
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SPC is the only option for that.

They're meh.

Poly bushings don't work right in the rear multilink, they just cause bind.

Just grab some voodoo/spl/bv arms and it'll be fine for dd, esp in AZ.
For lowering approx 3-4" on plates up front, which adjustable arms are essential?
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:50 AM   #20222
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@ADIDASilvia I think it's the booster too, it definitely feels like it's over-boosting like giving too much assist.

BTW I do have SS brake lines.

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Old 09-19-2016, 04:38 PM   #20223
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Wondering if origin over fenders have any type of brand stamp on the inside or markings so I know they are legit.
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:12 PM   #20224
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my sr20 is charging at 15 volts, good? bad? ok?
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:43 PM   #20225
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Wondering if origin over fenders have any type of brand stamp on the inside or markings so I know they are legit.
they should... IIRC all origin FRP parts have a label embedded under the resin on the insides of the parts

i cant find a pic via google... but this is how my parts are labeled. MOST mid to high end FRP parts are labeled like this in some manner (which the brand label being under the resin)

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Old 09-19-2016, 06:15 PM   #20226
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

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Wondering if origin over fenders have any type of brand stamp on the inside or markings so I know they are legit.

I've had 20mm fronts, 50mm rears, and now 55mm rears. They have all had this type of stamp:



It really blew my mind because all of the aero parts I've ever had were labeled with the traditional rabbit:



There are many similarities in the text on both pieces so I've learned to just accept that the fenders aren't special enough to be blessed with the bunny.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:58 PM   #20227
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Thanks dori and mister.e I just got my type 3 rears from a distributer I haven't dealt with before and I had the same type of sticker as your first picture. I was just curious if I had legit parts.
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Old 09-19-2016, 08:35 PM   #20228
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For lowering approx 3-4" on plates up front, which adjustable arms are essential?
What do you mean by this?
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:28 PM   #20229
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Tension rods for caster (and to get rid of the giant shitty rubber bushing in front).
Toe arms in back (to adjust toe!)
RUCA in back (to adjust camber)
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:06 AM   #20230
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found this odd. pulled a climate control unit from an S14 and it has no A/C from the factory? weird.
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:21 AM   #20231
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found this odd. pulled a climate control unit from an S14 and it has no A/C from the factory? weird.
Are you able to still pull parts from that S14? If so pm me.
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:26 PM   #20232
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found this odd. pulled a climate control unit from an S14 and it has no A/C from the factory? weird.
I havent seen that on an S14 before but my S13 had no A/C from the factory and is also missing the A/C button on the climate control. No idea if that's rare or not but it sure is a bitch in the summer.

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Old 09-22-2016, 01:32 PM   #20233
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i would LOVE to get my hands on an AC delete vent duct from a Zenki S13 so i can rip out all my indash AC crap but still retain my heater usage.
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:46 PM   #20234
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i would LOVE to get my hands on an AC delete vent duct from a Zenki S13 so i can rip out all my indash AC crap but still retain my heater usage.

Thats why I want to know if that car is still around, I want that delete duct. haha
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:55 PM   #20235
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Thats why I want to know if that car is still around, I want that delete duct. haha
if you find one, let me know... im halfway tempted to have it molded so people can do the AC delete properly and not lose their heaters!
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Old 09-22-2016, 03:06 PM   #20236
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yeah, i didnt know it was a non a/c car at the time. pulled it from the junkers months ago and noticed it only recently.
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Old 09-22-2016, 05:25 PM   #20237
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Might be a dumb question but will a Altima valve cover fit on a 240 ka?
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:25 PM   #20238
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^no, they are different
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Old 09-22-2016, 07:57 PM   #20239
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if you find one, let me know... im halfway tempted to have it molded so people can do the AC delete properly and not lose their heaters!
Ill shoot you a message if I find one again. I've seen them a couple times in scrap yards but never realized anyone wanted anything from them. Not ready to part with mine because like you mentioned it's nice to keep the heater with the A/C gone and still be OEM.
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:53 PM   #20240
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Ill shoot you a message if I find one again. I've seen them a couple times in scrap yards but never realized anyone wanted anything from them. Not ready to part with mine because like you mentioned it's nice to keep the heater with the A/C gone and still be OEM.
Well of u wanna part with yours, I'd be happy to replace it with one of mine for free when its done
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:24 AM   #20241
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Ill shoot you a message if I find one again. I've seen them a couple times in scrap yards but never realized anyone wanted anything from them. Not ready to part with mine because like you mentioned it's nice to keep the heater with the A/C gone and still be OEM.
I just gutted mine, trimmed it an filled on the holes with cut out abs plastic and plastic adhesive them shut, so I still have the housing/duct but minus the entire innards of it. Would much rather have the delete duct though.
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:47 PM   #20242
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How do you guys the the humidity out of your cars? Mines always feels sticky and the air is humid

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Old 09-23-2016, 11:56 PM   #20243
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How do you guys the the humidity out of your cars? Mines always feels sticky and the air is humid

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you can fill a sock full of cat litter and leave it under your seat (best to do 2 under both seats)
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:05 AM   #20244
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you can fill a sock full of cat litter and leave it under your seat (best to do 2 under both seats)
Have you done this before? And does cat litter smell? I dont own cats
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:33 AM   #20245
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Never heard of using cat litter for humidity. I thought it was just for cat shit and oil spills.
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:46 AM   #20246
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Used these in the past. They work pretty well.

https://www.amazon.com/DampRid-Hangi.../dp/B011R1ODAS
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Old 09-24-2016, 09:58 AM   #20247
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Which is basically cat litter inside it.


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Old 09-24-2016, 10:31 AM   #20248
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Have you done this before? And does cat litter smell? I dont own cats
DO not spend money on all that above listed bullshit when you probably have the solution in your house. Fill three socks with basic long grain rice. BUT FIRST, take the rice, and put it in the oven for about three hours or so at the lowest, LOWEST setting. This dries the rice out to a very low RH(Relative Humidity) of around 40%. Once this is done, put the rice into basic white gym socks behind each seat, and in the trunk, making sure to check your trunk to insure it stays dry. This is very effective.
Now for the secrets of stuff you already use in your cars...

You all know those nice smelling guchi cans of crystals you buy in the autoshops? You know the ones. They are colored gel like damp crystals. Take these, you will need 6 jars. The reason these are damp is because they release the moisture into the air to scent it. Get three layers of aluminum foil on a metal cookie sheet(aluminum one at Kroger is fine too)
Now lay all those crystals on the sheet and set the oven to it's lowest setting between 150* and 170*. Allow these crystals to dry out until they shrink to their actual normal size, leaving your oven open as it 'cooks' to release the scent throughout the house. Once these are all dry, place the contents back into three jars. Set one each behind the seats, and in the trunk.
You have now taken a polymer media that is used all over the world as a DESICCANT, something to keep things DRY and reduce environmental RH. You see, desiccant has two way properties. Wet, it allows the moisture to release into the air creating a more humid environment. Dry, it pulls moisture causing a drier environment. The main goal is to maintain a 58%(pretty dry, you will get static shock getting in and out, use a static drag under the car(simple flat cable that goes from frame to ground to release static electricity) to around 65% RH which is 'dry' enough to not cause static build up, but at the same time is dry enough RH to feel dry.

You will all understand this if you understand your 240. It's NOT rocket science
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:58 PM   #20249
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@Im Redline

That sounds pretty legit. I think I do know what youre talking about. I live in a dorm and dont have oven access for long periods of time. I will save your recommendation though. For the desiccant gel beans, how low do they bring the humidity down to? % wise. I would be concerned about the static shock potential since the car is used as a ground.

I stopped by a pet store and got like 3 hand fulls of kitty litter for a buck. Left it open in my interior in the mean time while I riffle through my socks to find some I can sacrifice.
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Old 09-25-2016, 07:50 AM   #20250
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@Im Redline

That sounds pretty legit. I think I do know what youre talking about. I live in a dorm and dont have oven access for long periods of time. I will save your recommendation though. For the desiccant gel beans, how low do they bring the humidity down to? % wise. I would be concerned about the static shock potential since the car is used as a ground.

I stopped by a pet store and got like 3 hand fulls of kitty litter for a buck. Left it open in my interior in the mean time while I riffle through my socks to find some I can sacrifice.
The desiccant beads(hard polymer style) are used here at Bridgestone's wire plant. They are baked at 170* for 19 hours(huge overkill) to make sure they are at 40%RH. For the soft gel, it only takes about 8 hours or so, depending on size. This type can be put onto an aluminum throw away Kroger baking sheet, and left in a sunny location where they will dry pretty fast, and require less oven time. With the amount of humidity in your car due to cloth materials, these things will usually average between 65%RH - 58%RH in a closed car. Remember, you have vents also that allow a small amount of air to circulate, so it is enough to bring RH down to a better level.

Generalized stuff for everyone...
You want to dry your car out inside a bit, use desiccant gel. You want it to smell good, detail clean the fucker and use some nice smelling cloth shampoo and a vacuum on the seats and carpets. The fact many of you are here means you have escalated beyond high school fukboi who runs the 2 inna pink decal on the back of the car and are serious about working your drift, road racer, vip ride to hard park or other useful status. If your level is good interior and AC, it really doesn't take much to detail it out and make it smell good where chicks smile when they get in, not wrinkle their brow and enjoy the scent of last decade's gear oil. Keeping the RH down inside helps maintain a fresher scent. My trick is to use a mild solution of cherry or banana car soap on my seats and carpets, then vacuum with a shop vac, then air dry for 8 hours.
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