Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[DJTTon]

Since driving with the windows down is a "240 thing", how will that affect the interior's condition? I would presume it would raise humidity. Would the gel beans absorb humidity faster to "wear out" sooner? I cant remember the last time I drove without lowering my windows.

Follow-up question, is there anyway to prevent like a oily type build up on the interior glass windows? Iirc thats oils from the interior plastics and suede being released from the heat of the sun shining through the window.

[imbored205]

I am in the process of putting z32 brakes on my car and am not sure if I may have done something incorrectly.

I noticed one of my rear wheels seems more "pushed out" from the hub. It seems that my wheel is positive offset by about an inch or so in the outwards direction.


S14 SE.
Using all stock S14 parts except the Z32 ebrake assembly, caliper, and rotor. Is this normal for my wheel to be about an inch further from the car? Is this because the new ebrake assembly and rotor need more space or did I just do something wrong?

I checked and didnt see any gaps so I am unsure of why this happened.

(I have only done one rear wheel so far)

[cRazyfRicti0n]

i have spent hours looking for these wheels and the closest iv come is
asanti af132 wheels but they are only offered i chrome not black chrome.
they are forged 3 piece 18x11 front and 19x13 rear. 5x120 bolt pattern and there are absolutely no stamps on them anywhere which leads me to believe maybe they were custom made to order. cant stamp an ET on a face if you havnt built the wheel yet type deal. they will be on the higher end side of rims or highest. i got them with another set that turned out to be GFG giovanna calisix wheels off a lambo.worth around 6000 USD. it wont let me upload pictures and the image host url is not working but here is the gallery. black ones are the ones that need identifying. calisix are there also.

http://postimg.org/gallery/2a4i8ynm6/

thanks and good luck!

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Since driving with the windows down is a "240 thing", how will that affect the interior's condition? I would presume it would raise humidity. Would the gel beans absorb humidity faster to "wear out" sooner? I cant remember the last time I drove without lowering my windows.

Follow-up question, is there anyway to prevent like a oily type build up on the interior glass windows? Iirc thats oils from the interior plastics and suede being released from the heat of the sun shining through the window.

The coolest thing about the gel is it is recyclable by 'cooking' back down to it's dryer state.
As to build up on windows, can't tell you because my habit(when not running on AC Delco's as in my photo) is to clean my car every Friday after work, or Thursday evening after work. This is inclusive of cleaning the windows, putting leather and vinyl conditioner(same thing used on leather jackets, LEXOL) on the dash, door panels, trim panels, vacuuming all the soft surfaces, then spraying a bit of home use scent into the seats before wiping with a dry towel.
When I bought my car, it had sat for a year. It reeked of old water, and older gear oil. Now it smells like a Hawaiian gun range with a mix of 'tropic air' scent, and Hoppes No9(from the 45)

[lunchmeat]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Now it smells like a Hawaiian gun range with a mix of 'tropic air' scent, and Hoppes No9(from the 45)

So heaven does have a smell.

[David48]

Originally Posted by imbored205

I am in the process of putting z32 brakes on my car and am not sure if I may have done something incorrectly.

I noticed one of my rear wheels seems more "pushed out" from the hub. It seems that my wheel is positive offset by about an inch or so in the outwards direction.


S14 SE.
Using all stock S14 parts except the Z32 ebrake assembly, caliper, and rotor. Is this normal for my wheel to be about an inch further from the car? Is this because the new ebrake assembly and rotor need more space or did I just do something wrong?

I checked and didnt see any gaps so I am unsure of why this happened.

(I have only done one rear wheel so far)

When you installed the brakes, did you touch the bolts for any of the control arms at all? They're eccentric alignment bolts and it's common for people to unknowingly change their alignment.

[imbored205]

Originally Posted by David48

When you installed the brakes, did you touch the bolts for any of the control arms at all? They're eccentric alignment bolts and it's common for people to unknowingly change their alignment.

No. I used a hub puller so I did not need to touch any thing else.

Basically this
http://www.jull.net/s14-s15-tech-guides/z32-rear-brakes

1. Remove axle/hub nut
2. Remove the 4 bolts connecting the hub and knuckle
3. Use hub puller to pull hub off
4. put on ebrake assembly
5. put hub back on
6. put rotors and calipers on



Also my new problem after putting all the brakes on and bleeding them is the pedal drops to the floor and stiffens on the last inch. S14 SE w/ABS and stock 15/16 master cylinder.

It feels like a normal pedal with the car off but once you start the engine, it sinks. I drove around the neighborhood at no more than 20mph to see if a little driving would change anything, but it did not.

I do not see any leaks so I will try bleeding the brakes again to see if anything changes. The calipers are also on the correct side with the bleeder valve on the top.

[kashira kureijii]

This is more of just a factoid question for anyone who knows, im not looking for stock 180 or silvia exhaust or anything like that.

Was the stock exhaust on S13"s in nippon the same exhaust we got here in the states? With The tiny little 2 pipe muffler? Was the piping size the same?

Just wondering, cuz im thinking they would have made the exhaust for the turbo cars have better flow. That makes more sense for it not to make a bunch of backpressure and stuff, but it would be cool to know


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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

This is more of just a factoid question for anyone who knows, im not looking for stock 180 or silvia exhaust or anything like that.

Was the stock exhaust on S13"s in nippon the same exhaust we got here in the states? With The tiny little 2 pipe muffler? Was the piping size the same?

Just wondering, cuz im thinking they would have made the exhaust for the turbo cars have better flow. That makes more sense for it not to make a bunch of backpressure and stuff, but it would be cool to know


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Cat Back, all S-Chassis received the same basic Bosol, or Calsonic exhaust we have on our USDM cars as thy were made at the same plants, with only engines, ecu's and cat forward being different( a few generic things lik radiators, again, bosol or calsonic, are different as well). As there were more interior options and a few exterior options available in Japan, we see those as well.

I kinda had this little issue when I was looking for a 240SX S14. I knew the cars were Silvia's, due to a good friend having one in Hawaii. Japanse, RHD, grey market car, brand new 1995 model year 1996, in white. Day two mods were a simple DTM muffler, and a full set of 5 spoke wheels by some company called NISMO. Doing as much research as I could on the car(nerd level here, trivia and all, while going to college), I found out the car was called a 240SX here. Found my first zenki here, popped the hood looking for a SR20 and instead found a 'truck' motor that was indeed NOT a truck motor. Manufactured in Japan, the 240SX DOHC has a cradle on the main caps, good shit to make it tough, but a disappointment for anyone looking for a turbo sr20det...back to the books to go deeper into USDM and now it;s a pain in the ass because of all thee BS in my head

Funny thing is, my son has a kouki...with his favorite muffler, a DTM

[dallaschristman]

I'm doing the my first ever five-speed swap on my hatch. But I have a question about the driveshaft.

I have the full automatic driveshaft, and my buddy told me that I can take the front half of a manual shaft that he has and it'll be the right size. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I was going to take it and have it made into a one piece but I wanted to make sure it would the right size.

[jared420sx]

Z33 clutch, rb25 fly wheel on a sr20? Will it work?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by dallaschristman

I'm doing the my first ever five-speed swap on my hatch. But I have a question about the driveshaft.

I have the full automatic driveshaft, and my buddy told me that I can take the front half of a manual shaft that he has and it'll be the right size. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I was going to take it and have it made into a one piece but I wanted to make sure it would the right size.

save yourself the headache and just buy a 5 spd drive shaft. seriously... youre in for a world of annoyance breaking 2 drive shafts apart and rigging them together, nevermind youll pay $50-$100 once finished to have it properly balanced (you will NEED to have this done or risk the driveshaft vibrating itself apart).

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

Z33 clutch, rb25 fly wheel on a sr20? Will it work?

Can I ask why you'd want this?


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[jared420sx]

In a effort to not waste money on things i already have that might be salvageable

[dorkidori_s13]

instead of ghetto rigging your clutch setup... do it right the FIRST time and just buy an SR clutch kit, and while youre at it, replace all of the hydraulic components as well and never worry about taking your transmission off again!

its a bit of a pinch, but in the long run its SO worth it!

[black'N'proud]

I know this has been discussed before and the fsm pretty much covers it very well but I'm still having trouble setting my timing to 15* btc. When I have the timing gun aimed at the crank the timing marks can't even been seen until I fully advance the cam angle sensor, not sure what I'm doing wrong. Even though I have the marks on the cam angle sensor aligned, could I just be installing the cas to far advanced/ retarded? Also is there a faster way to set the engine to tdc with the timing chain aligned with the marks on the cam sprockets? It just takes forever to get everything lined up again. Thanks in advance for your help

[TheRealSy90]

It only takes a maximum of 4 engine rotations to get to TDC on the compression stroke.


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[Young Sileighty Kev]

Car: 1991 240sx ka24de
Problem:
Smoke is appearing around the 02 sensor area. I changed it already but smoke still appears, white smoke. Not a lot but it just keeps coming. Also the car starts to bog and want to die once it's fully warm. What are some stuff I should look into? I can't find nothing or know anyone with similar issue

[lunchmeat]

How's the coolant look? Low? Bubbling when running? Brown?

[Young Sileighty Kev]

Originally Posted by lunchmeat

How's the coolant look? Low? Bubbling when running? Brown?

Looks brand new still, not bubbling and car is not overheating

[David48]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

Z33 clutch, rb25 fly wheel on a sr20? Will it work?

Not in a million years. RB flywheel has 6 bolts to the crank, SR has 8.

Originally Posted by black'N'proud

I know this has been discussed before and the fsm pretty much covers it very well but I'm still having trouble setting my timing to 15* btc. When I have the timing gun aimed at the crank the timing marks can't even been seen until I fully advance the cam angle sensor, not sure what I'm doing wrong. Even though I have the marks on the cam angle sensor aligned, could I just be installing the cas to far advanced/ retarded? Also is there a faster way to set the engine to tdc with the timing chain aligned with the marks on the cam sprockets? It just takes forever to get everything lined up again. Thanks in advance for your help

You're probably stabbing the cas off one tooth. Also, I hope you don't mean you're constantly spinning the crank until the marks on the chain match the marks on the sprocket. It takes like a million rotations to get them to line up again. Just make sure the timing mark on the crank is where it's supposed to be and that the timing marks on the sprockets are where they're supposed to be. Don't worry about the marks on the chain, they're only there for when you take the chain off and are initially setting it back on.

[black'N'proud]

Originally Posted by David48

Not in a million years. RB flywheel has 6 bolts to the crank, SR has 8.



You're probably stabbing the cas off one tooth. Also, I hope you don't mean you're constantly spinning the crank until the marks on the chain match the marks on the sprocket. It takes like a million rotations to get them to line up again. Just make sure the timing mark on the crank is where it's supposed to be and that the timing marks on the sprockets are where they're supposed to be. Don't worry about the marks on the chain, they're only there for when you take the chain off and are initially setting it back on.

Thanks for the advice, I think my problem was I have a redtop sr20 and the markings on the cam angle sensor are "backwards" compared to all the write ups I've seen. After installing the cas I aimed the timing gun it shows it dead on at 15* but when tap the throttle the timing goes way off. When I try to set the timing I can't advance or retard the cas enough to get it back to 15* could my cas still be installed wrong?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by black'N'proud

Thanks for the advice, I think my problem was I have a redtop sr20 and the markings on the cam angle sensor are "backwards" compared to all the write ups I've seen. After installing the cas I aimed the timing gun it shows it dead on at 15* but when tap the throttle the timing goes way off. When I try to set the timing I can't advance or retard the cas enough to get it back to 15* could my cas still be installed wrong?

That just sounds like you're having a hard time getting it to lock itself into timing mode. Can take a few times to get it to lock at 15° and stop wandering. Driving around 15 minutes or so usually helps to get everything all warmed up so it will lock.

[Walkerbondd]

Alright so I've got a wiring problem causing a parasitic draw. The battery dies after about 3-4 days of sitting but I have narrowed it down the s14 SE alarm system. When I pull the alarm relay the draw stops and the battery retains its power. But the problem is that the SE alarm system contains the ignition wire causing me to not be able to start the car with the relay out. Any suggestions? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

[dorkidori_s13]

bypass the ignition wire in the alarm system straight to the ECU... done!

[Walkerbondd]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

bypass the ignition wire in the alarm system straight to the ECU... done!

Thanks for the fast reply! So since the whole alarm circuit is essentially "open" what you're saying is to just close the Ignition wire and leave the rest of the circuit open? If anyone has done this on their s14 please PM me which wire it is and where you did it. Thanks!

[dorkidori_s13]

i dunno man, just guessing. pull the relay and by pass the ignition wire from the alarm and go directly to the ECU... see what happens?

[5280VertDET]

ECU vs Chassis ground for the TPS, does it matter?

[Yeg180sx]

HI I just wanted some insight on something befor I replace it. If my terms aren't on point I'm sorry.

I lost my clutch yesterday, figured it could use a bleeding. Once under the car I noticed that the arm that goes from the slave to inside my 5speed trans and pushes my throw bearing was just hanging there. Once I pulled the rubber boot and looked inside I noticed that the little bolt/nipple thing that sits behind the push arm was snapped right off and the nipple part is stuck in the arm. So it's not being held in place for it to be pressured up when I push my clutch. I have a spare trans with this nipple bolt thing on it. I believe I can replace it without dropping the trans. My question is, is there something else inside my trans I can't see that would cause this to break or damaged something else when it broke. I just don't want to replace it with the one from my back up if it's just going to break the new one I install an put me back to square one but with no spare part.

Thanks for any input on this, it'll be very much appreciated

[dorkidori_s13]

you need to remove the tranny to replace the pivot bolt.... while you have the tranny off, it would be a good idea to replace all of the hydraulic system parts since youll have access to them! but if you only want to fix what broke, heres the pivot ball...

http://www.frsport.com/OEM-Clutch-Pi...Fc1bfgodIjEIrA



however it might be a good idea just upgrade to the NISMO unit since its a stronger pivot ball... handy if you have and upgraded clutch or plan on going that route one day

http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-30537-R...4_p_12500.html



Or if you broke your slave cylinder pin, youll need a brand new slave cylinder unit... this is for KA24de and SR20det (larger piston size than KA24e). this can be replaced without removing the trans

http://www.frsport.com/3-4-Clutch-Sl...FZFufgod3-IO6w