Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Yeg180sx]

Yea I'm trying to avoid dropping the whole thing. Just want it to last another month. If that looking like we'll be getting snow here soon. This winter I'm stripping g it right down so don't want to have to do all that for a short amount of time.
But thanks alot for the quick response and input much appreciated

[Yeg180sx]

Sorry if this is a 2nd post to your reply. I thought I posted but not showing up

But thanks for the quick response much appreciated.
Was trying to avoid dropping it since I only need to to run maybe another month befor I get snow here and plans on stripping car all down over winter. I do have a after clutch set up and been hard on the car all summer so makes why it broke. And that's for the insight on upgrading all that stuff. I would of never of guessed that I should do that or that they make a heavy duty replacement.
Thanks again. First day on here and such a great experience already.

[LoSt180]

Just to add to dorkidori, there's a clip that holds the fork to the throw out bearing. I imagine it'll be a bitch to get that in place without dropping the trans. Pivot balls snapping is fairly common, given the age of these cars, even the G35/350Z has upgraded pivot balls available (probably why the z34 went to hydraulic throw out bearings).

[Yeg180sx]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

you need to remove the tranny to replace the pivot bolt.... while you have the tranny off, it would be a good idea to replace all of the hydraulic system parts since youll have access to them! but if you only want to fix what broke, heres the pivot ball...

http://www.frsport.com/OEM-Clutch-Pi...Fc1bfgodIjEIrA



however it might be a good idea just upgrade to the NISMO unit since its a stronger pivot ball... handy if you have and upgraded clutch or plan on going that route one day

http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-30537-R...4_p_12500.html



Or if you broke your slave cylinder pin, youll need a brand new slave cylinder unit... this is for KA24de and SR20det (larger piston size than KA24e). this can be replaced without removing the trans

http://www.frsport.com/3-4-Clutch-Sl...FZFufgod3-IO6w

Hey sorry was trying to figure out how to reply to your answer. Bran new here but thanks alot for your reply it's much appreciated.
Was trying to avoid dropping it since I only want it to run another month or so. Looks like we may have snow here soon and I plan on stripping it all down over the winter. Going to drop it and get it fixed up here in the next day or so thought now. I'll also definitely look into getting a heavy duty one for when I strip it. Makes sense why I broke mine. I have a upgraded clutch and have been hard on it all summer. I wouldn't of even guessed they made a heavy duty one of those or that it's common to break. So thanks again for the quick reply.

[Yeg180sx]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Just to add to dorkidori, there's a clip that holds the fork to the throw out bearing. I imagine it'll be a bitch to get that in place without dropping the trans. Pivot balls snapping is fairly common, given the age of these cars, even the G35/350Z has upgraded pivot balls available (probably why the z34 went to hydraulic throw out bearings).

Hey thanks for the tip. I'll definitely check that an make sure it's there. I figured it kind of just sat in place since the bearing part only allows the arm to sit one way with the flat edges on either side to slide it over it. So much appreciate your add in on my question. I'm no mechanic hah I just have a basic knowledge of fixing things and learn from just breaking everything haha then getting in there and getting my hands dirty. I would of never of guessed these were a common thing to break, or that there is a pin to hold it there so thanks again for adding in on it

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

ECU vs Chassis ground for the TPS, does it matter?

If I'm not mistaken the original ground for the TPS is through the ECU anyway.

I couldn't see any good reason to chassis ground it. I'm assuming this to be true across the various Nissan engines, could be wrong.

[DJTTon]

I sold my car today, what do I do now?

[jared420sx]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I sold my car today, what do I do now?

Buy a bmw.

[Standard]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I sold my car today, what do I do now?

Invest in something worth while!! Haha

[lunchmeat]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I sold my car today, what do I do now?

Go to Disney world?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I sold my car today, what do I do now?

Hold the money for three days, without spending any of it. Then hold it for two weeks. During this time, if you regret selling the car, start looking for a new one that is bone stock, but very good. If you do not miss it, go buy something that is reliable, and never really needs parts replaced. OR, you could do something really dumb like buying a BMW that is even harder to maintain and more expensive than a 240, or a , well you get the idea.

[I'm Redline]

LOW SEAT RAILS...
Do any low seat rails work with stock seats to lower the seat, and still maintain the back and forth adjustment?

I searched but did not find the answer

[Mister.E]

MAYBE Bride MO rails, but I'm sure it would still require a bit of customization. Honestly, the only time I've seen the bottom of stock seats is as they are flying into the trash. If you are going to go to this extent for some stock seats, you may want to look into seeing if you can use 350z seats or something instead. This will be a lot of work to keep some jank 240sx seats.

[kashira kureijii]

Hes probably doing it cuz hes to tall, rather than aesthetics, if hes using stock seats.


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[sentradude]

What are the benefits running S14 FLCA on S13 other than more camber and angle? For a street car built for traction is this a good upgrade?

[David48]

Originally Posted by sentradude

What are the benefits running S14 FLCA on S13 other than more camber and angle? For a street car built for traction is this a good upgrade?

Wider track width makes the car more stable. It's worth the $50-$100 you'll spend on them.

[mr.nismo.]

S13 sr AAC valve question. For the longest time I've had a lean condition at idle and very light throttle (max wideband lean) but otherwise everything perfect. I did boost leak test and everything checked out. However I noticed today when I did a reset with NDS (adjusted TPS) that I can hear a vacuum leak type sound. As I adjusted the idle screw I could hear the noise come and go (Afr didn't change though ) but I feel like now it's the AAC valve. I saw in a thread that there's an o-ring for the screw. Does anyone know the size? Or am I better off replacing it? The AAC valve was at 8% during idle. Thanks in advance!


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[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

Hes probably doing it cuz hes to tall, rather than aesthetics, if hes using stock seats.


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We have found stock 240 seats to be quite nice compared to other car seats. They are comfortable on long trips and they hold nicely on back roads. As to janky, not quite for a $1,000 seat(if you have looked at replacing one stock, brand new).
We we're just looking for drop rails for the kid's kouki. He's a bit taller than me and if he can lower the seat, he can sit the seat more upright instead of leaning it back. Currently the Corbeau A4 Wides are a tad pricey, so drop rails it is, just want to spend once and not worry. If we have to cut or paste, no worries

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

As to janky, not quite for a $1,000 seat(if you have looked at replacing one stock, brand new).

Not trying to be a dick, but just because Nissan sells 240 seats for $1K doesn't actually mean they are worth it.

Your best bet is to flip the seat over and look at the bottom. Here are the Bride rails I was talking about. They have flat plates to bolt bottom mount seats to, so theoretically you "should" be able to fashion a way for the stock seat to work. I used these rails with a bottom mount sparco that I had in my 180sx and they were perfect.

http://www.frsport.com/Type-MO-Super...FQ9EfgodCeQA_Q

[1986.z31]

Not too sure if this has been posted yet; if i add fender mirrors to my z31 can i still be able to hook up the power switch to them?

[Roscoe.]

Hey so, I've got a 95 S14, and all of a sudden my Fuel level gauge has decided the needle shouldn't move from the very bottom of the gauge. I've checked that my sending unit is plugged in and is able to move within the tank, and I'm now sort of at a loss. What should I be checking next?

[R3b]

Super quick, having a lean issue. Is it my FPR or fuel pump that is bad? I can crank the fpr to 60-75psi and doesnt change on my wide band. Still floats around 17-18 but mainly at ---
Car was sitting for awhile with 1/4 tank with normal walbro 255 could that have gone bad from the corn or is my adjustable fpr diagram fucked?

Got a loan a tool for a gauge and hand vacuum pump, will check later but seeing if anyone knew if the high fuel pressure still running lean is a dead give away of either or.

[R3b]

Originally Posted by Roscoe.

Hey so, I've got a 95 S14, and all of a sudden my Fuel level gauge has decided the needle shouldn't move from the very bottom of the gauge. I've checked that my sending unit is plugged in and is able to move within the tank, and I'm now sort of at a loss. What should I be checking next?

Typical issue, dont sweat it. Mine comes and goes, sometimes the float gets stuck on the baffle and causes miss readings. I would reset your trip and watch how many miles you put. I worked it out for my driving 150miles at 12 gallons with e85. There is no way to fix the issue but simply live with it because its an older car problem.

[jared420sx]

So my q45 diff is fucked up and i only have around 300hp and plan on drifting it at the track what internals should i swap into it that would work and also have a nice ratio or should i just keep the 3.5 ratio help! Thanks

[dorkidori_s13]

how the hell did you manage to break an R230 diff is my question!!??!?!

[jared420sx]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

how the hell did you manage to break an R230 diff is my question!!??!?!

I have the r200 version. And im not sure, i got it and it has been fucked ever since.
If i need to replace internals what ratio do i keep
This is the final step before i put my subframe back in so any suggestions on what i should/could do would be radical.

[dorkidori_s13]

ah ok... i was seriously in disbelief that anyone could trash an R230 rear who wasnt making like 2000whp or something

[S-Nation S13]

I've been searching but all the links are dead , just bought a yashio factory temp gauge consult type. My question is all it reads is 1? I have a 91 coupe with sr engine and 62 ecu cookie cutter any one know how to operate this thing?


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[David48]

Originally Posted by R3b

Super quick, having a lean issue. Is it my FPR or fuel pump that is bad? I can crank the fpr to 60-75psi and doesnt change on my wide band. Still floats around 17-18 but mainly at ---
Car was sitting for awhile with 1/4 tank with normal walbro 255 could that have gone bad from the corn or is my adjustable fpr diagram fucked?

Got a loan a tool for a gauge and hand vacuum pump, will check later but seeing if anyone knew if the high fuel pressure still running lean is a dead give away of either or.

Never let your car sit with e85 in the tank. It wreaks havoc on fuel systems under normal use, so you can imagine how bad it is to let it sit. I replace pumps on e85 cars at work pretty much every time they end up sitting, so that's your best place to start. Also, is the gauge on your fpr actually reading 60-75psi?

Originally Posted by Roscoe.

Hey so, I've got a 95 S14, and all of a sudden my Fuel level gauge has decided the needle shouldn't move from the very bottom of the gauge. I've checked that my sending unit is plugged in and is able to move within the tank, and I'm now sort of at a loss. What should I be checking next?

Pull the sending unit and check the voltage as you move the float up and down its full motion. The FSM has the specifications. More than likely the sending unit went bad or you have a broken wire somewhere around the plug. If not, then check the cluster.

Originally Posted by jared420sx

So my q45 diff is fucked up and i only have around 300hp and plan on drifting it at the track what internals should i swap into it that would work and also have a nice ratio or should i just keep the 3.5 ratio help! Thanks

Just grab another Q45 diff assembly from the junkyard. They're cheap, plentiful and usually have no problem holding 300hp. Yours was probably run low on oil or assembled wrong.

[R3b]

Originally Posted by David48

Never let your car sit with e85 in the tank. It wreaks havoc on fuel systems under normal use, so you can imagine how bad it is to let it sit. I replace pumps on e85 cars at work pretty much every time they end up sitting, so that's your best place to start. Also, is the gauge on your fpr actually reading 60-75psi?

Yeah I know, but figured "whats a month going to do" Then the month turns to two months because normal issues when building a car and then later turns to 4 months lol

My FPR gauge seems accurate, I got a loan a tool and hand pump to check but its storming by me so dont have time to test anything. Im sure its the fuel pump as well but strange thing is, gauge reads 43psi when set w/o vaccum and when I start the car it runs lean but soons as I disconnect the maf it runs stupid rich? Even if it was buggered, how could it run pig rich in the 10s without maf but with it on runs in the 18s... Could be an tune/ecu issue???

Two things point to fuel and thats if I mess with the fpr and crank it high as I can the afrs dont richen up and soon as I shut off the car and has no power immediately my fuel pressure drops to like 5psi in two seconds.