Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

I have 17x9 rims with 245/40 tires and I don't rub.
Keep in mind that I have coilovers and the stock plastic inner fenders. So you could try that tire size along with Redline's suggestions for a little more grip.

245-40? Did you roll fenders from 11 - 2? No rub inside the front at full lock? 0 wheel gap(not tucking tire, just no gap)?
I love grip, the more the better, but I am only looking at some minor adjustment to metal after I get a body kit(Z fender flares), so I'll go lower just a bit.

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

245-40? Did you roll fenders from 11 - 2? No rub inside the front at full lock? 0 wheel gap(not tucking tire, just no gap)?
I love grip, the more the better, but I am only looking at some minor adjustment to metal after I get a body kit(Z fender flares), so I'll go lower just a bit.

I didn't roll anything or do any body modifications because I wanted rims that fit the car and not vice versa. Those are the rims I acquired, but the front offset is off. The rims are 35 offset, which fit the rear perfectly, but the front needs to be 28 (I'm using a 7mm spacer because it touches the coilover).

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by osk94

I recently installed a Silvia Ks wing or Kouki wing whatever you wanna call it on my trunk. Originally it was a wingless trunk, now the problem I have is that my trunk wont open now cause of the weight of the wing unless I have a second person lifting it as soon as I pull on the release latch from the side of the seat. Anybody know how to calibrate the release force of the trunk or have any suggestions on how to handle this? I searched on here but everyone has issues related to the cable that releases the trunk. My trunk opens fine but it now requires two people to open it. Thanks

The torsion bars are different between the base and SE trunks with a spoiler. The torsion bar is kind of like a large spring that pushes the trunk open, it's stronger on the ones with spoilers due to the weight difference.

You need to find used ones from an SE model, or order new ones from Nissan. Might be called a tension spring, but it's the metal rods that connect the two hinges. SE ones are beefier.

Quick scan of nissanparts.cc turns up these part numbers:
BODY HARDWARE / TRUNK LID / LID & COMPONENTS / Torsion bar
Part Number: 8443265F10 torsion bar w/spoiler Right
Part Number: 8443365F10 torsion bar w/spoiler Left

[TheRealSy90]

Also good luck installing them. When I took the bars off of my trunk I nearly died when the tension let go on them with my head in the trunk

[juhd]

will adding adjustable FUCAs on a z32 mess with the toe? Or will it just adjust camber?

[derass]

Changing the camber, or anything else for that matter, will change the toe. Toe is always set last in an alignment for that reason.

[d9m13n]

Looking into getting the Blitz Nur Spec-R for my s13 sr20, only thing is im pushing about 300whp and im trying to get up to about 330-350, and ive heard the Nur Spec becomes restrictive up before that point. Can anyone comment on this? Ill be running catless

[dorkidori_s13]

an exhaust is NOT going to net you 30-50hp... might eek you out another 15-20 AT MOST

[d9m13n]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

an exhaust is NOT going to net you 30-50hp... might eek you out another 15-20 AT MOST

Sorry I guess I wasn't clear but that's not what I was asking, I'm not expecting an exhaust to actually net me anything. What I'm saying is that I've seen a couple people claim that the Nur Spec restricts flow at around the 310 or so hp mark and I'm looking to see if it'll support[/I] that horsepower level (which will come via ewg, tune, injectors) and if anyone is running that sort of power on that specific exhaust

[dorkidori_s13]

not sure where or how you heard that it "restricts" exhaust flow... its a standard straight thru design with (probably) standard 85mm piping. theres a resonator built into the piping with resonated muffler design. outside of the resonator, there is nothing that would cause turbulence or any sort of "restriction" (and the resonator just helps absorb sound, thats it)

[d9m13n]

Yeah it didnt seem like it would be a real hindrance, just a couple things ive read got me skeptical. Dont want to go spend the better part of $800 on something that wont support my setup

[dorkidori_s13]

Buying an NA KA style exhaust would be the only restriction, but even then it would still flow better than stock. Its the lack of bends and angles in the piping plus larger outlet design that gives the motor power, not always the size (though larger diameter DOES help). When exhaust gasses (much like air flow into the intake manifold) experience turbulance in escaping, this causes flow issues and will prevent the motor from breathing easily (basically expelling its waste element). Remove turbulence in the flow of exhaust and you allow the motor to breathe easier

[d9m13n]

Guess Ill just hope I dont run into any issues with it especially with the ecv ill be running. I have a feeling ill miss the response of the straight through setup with whatever I choose Thanks for the help dorki

[SupaDoopa]

I was actually going to suggest going straight pipe if any type of restriction scares you. The only time you limit yourself is exhaust diameter. If it's too small or too many bends, this can hurt you but most designs now are pretty straight forward and avoid those types of things.

[d9m13n]

Yeah I really wish I could keep the straight pipes, but I need something thatll pass a visual muffler inspection and be able to be quieted down enough so the neighborhood babies stay asleep...

[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

The torsion bars are different between the base and SE trunks with a spoiler. The torsion bar is kind of like a large spring that pushes the trunk open, it's stronger on the ones with spoilers due to the weight difference.

You need to find used ones from an SE model, or order new ones from Nissan. Might be called a tension spring, but it's the metal rods that connect the two hinges. SE ones are beefier.

Quick scan of nissanparts.cc turns up these part numbers:
BODY HARDWARE / TRUNK LID / LID & COMPONENTS / Torsion bar
Part Number: 8443265F10 torsion bar w/spoiler Right
Part Number: 8443365F10 torsion bar w/spoiler Left

Would putting a spring on the metal under the trunk so that it naturally wants to pop be out of this world? That's what I did on my heavy hatch with weak dampers, also used a lot on old muscle cars because all the panels weight a ton.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by d9m13n

Yeah I really wish I could keep the straight pipes, but I need something thatll pass a visual muffler inspection and be able to be quieted down enough so the neighborhood babies stay asleep...

then a blitz NUR Spec is NOT the direction you wanna go lol... theyre loud as shit!

this is what im running on my car... lost a little top end power compared to my Trust PE2 i previously owned, BUT, totally worth it in that it looks 100% stock, its NOT loud under normal cruising and idle and is still a full 3" turbo based exhaust. probably my most favorite catback ive ever owned! but then again, im not into the hoonafuckboiflushlifeyo!

http://www.frsport.com/HKS-31013-BN0...3_p_21407.html

an older shot of my car the day after installing...



recent shot with my current aero...



looks 100% stock and sounds amazing my SR is pushing 12psi on a GT28 off an S15 SpecR... will work with 300+ HP as well

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

Would putting a spring on the metal under the trunk so that it naturally wants to pop be out of this world? That's what I did on my heavy hatch with weak dampers, also used a lot on old muscle cars because all the panels weight a ton.

I don't know. I would lean more towards an OEM option for something like this, but you're more than welcome to experiment!

[91stockcoupe]

When I release the clutch up slowly to engage it, there is a loud creaking that can be felt through the peddle if that makes sense. It doesn't do it when you let go of the peddle fast or when you press it down. I know it's not the squeak from the spring or anything like that because I can hear it coming from under the car by the transmission. I don't have anyone around to press the peddle while I look under at the moment but I'm just wondering what I should look for when I'm under there or any suggestions. It's just a stock clutch and a stock ka transmission

[zombiewolf513]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

recent shot with my current aero...



looks 100% stock and sounds amazing my SR is pushing 12psi on a GT28 off an S15 SpecR... will work with 300+ HP as well

Looks sick!

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by d9m13n

Yeah it didnt seem like it would be a real hindrance, just a couple things ive read got me skeptical. Dont want to go spend the better part of $800 on something that wont support my setup

Imma hit this with a few generalizations. Anyone who tells you that system is restrictive is blowing ignorance up your ass, because smoke is what goes through an exhaust system.
Inline 4 with a 3" system will flow anywhere that engine and turbo can push it to, ie, 436hp if you want. In fact, any 3" system will support, not hinder your SR, same with a KA-T. Now if you are getting close to 500hp, you may want to jump to a custom 4" system, because that 3" system will in fact cause you a slight loss in exhaust velocity. Using a LS? Under 500hp? Typical 3" exhaust will be fine. Pushing that beast over 500hp, better jump up to a 4" system IF you are using big power adders. Yes, a 3" system will be fine, but if you are trying to get that last few hp at the top end, 4" is where you want to go, because that V8 us pushing equal to double your I4.
I6's respond very well to 3" systems to 500hp, over that, try a 4" system

[d9m13n]

Thats the sort of thing Im looking for, thanks redline. I was skeptical enough of, granted, the very few things id seen about it being restrictive that I thought Id ask here. Glad to have gotten some good info on it though.
Dorki that shits dope! Im not a huge fan of the way the nur spec and all the cannon style exhausts look but Ive never heard a better sounding tone on an sr. It only needs to be quiet for neighborhood startups and the odd cop spotting if Im feeling paranoid, which is why Ive got the p2m ecv. I can deal with the loud cruising but ill look into those more stock looking hks setups

[black'N'proud]

sorry if this has been asked before but I'm in the process of rebuilding my s13 sr20. After taking off the head I noticed one of the guide pins were stuck inside of the head. I'm just wondering how to remove the pin out of the head. Thanks in advance for the advice.

[mau5trap]

Where's the airbag control module located on a s14?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Where's the airbag control module located on a s14?

It is in the most fucked up place you would ever think. Roof, behind thee driver, over the back seat. Look up Body Electric on NissanPartsDeal.com, fourth diagram shows the location

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by black'N'proud

sorry if this has been asked before but I'm in the process of rebuilding my s13 sr20. After taking off the head I noticed one of the guide pins were stuck inside of the head. I'm just wondering how to remove the pin out of the head. Thanks in advance for the advice.

Try some pliers. Don't lose it.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

Where's the airbag control module located on a s14?

Under the armrest.

[Young Sileighty Kev]

Originally Posted by Young Sileighty Kev

White Smoke is coming from o2 sensor/upper down pipe area. It looks like the smoke comes from the o2. My car idles from 900 to 500 vice versa. And also the exhaust (straight pipe) back fires seems like the car is running rich. Any ideas what cause white smoke to appear?
Oil is good, coolant is good, no overheating

Any idea guys?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Under the armrest.

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts...agram=253_A003

[1on1]

Currently, my buddy is trying to set his pressure on his FPR but it will not change from 74psi. To be safe, we ran the motor and removed the fuse so all the gas can be burned in the cylinders.

Can a bad AFPR (Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator) be unable to change the pressure? Is there a fix?