s13 wire tuck+fuse & relay boxes re-location

[Fries]

bumpity bump mr. hpipro. [p.s. good thing I didnt waste my time tucking on my ka24, the motor I had ended up being garbage, now researching how to eliminate all the bullshit on an sr20].

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by Fries

bumpity bump mr. hpipro. [p.s. good thing I didnt waste my time tucking on my ka24, the motor I had ended up being garbage, now researching how to eliminate all the bullshit on an sr20].

shouldnt be a headache if your just doing your engine harness. unless your redoing your fuse/relay boxes, like how i did mine thats went things get complicated well not really unless you know what your doing!

goodluck bud

[Fries]

I want to do a full over like you did, nothing a little more research wont fix. Get me learn'd real gud. Howd that aero come along?

[T chop]

I have an S13, Silvia headlights, no heater etc.

I can get rid of both relay boxes,both OEM fuse panels and replace it with about a 12-18 Fuse box? How many relays would I need?

[GSXRJJordan]

I've been doing a lot of custom chassis harnesses lately, but have come back to doing more OEM-style tuck-and-loom jobs on high-end cars that want to retain all their factory systems. By far the hardest system to keep is HVAC, just because there are so many different units (blower motor, mix door, etc, etc) and control is very decentralized... you end up not cutting anything out and having to re-wire the whole thing into your new chassis harness.

Originally Posted by T chop

I have an S13, Silvia headlights, no heater etc.

I can get rid of both relay boxes,both OEM fuse panels and replace it with about a 12-18 Fuse box? How many relays would I need?

With Silvia headlights you lose the headlight up/down nonsense and the S13 doesn't have a headlight relay (power for the headlights goes through the switch). Losing HVAC saves a ton of headache. You'll still want an ignition relay to power your coil/coilpacks and ECU/sensors, fan relay(s) to kick on your electric fan(s), a fuel pump relay to handle the fuel pump, and your ignition switch with a big fuse on it to handle accessories. This is all assuming the most basic harness, and it gets complicated very quickly.

Like I tell everyone, no matter what car - if you read the FSM and can't instantly be comfortable with the wiring schematics, you will have a very difficult time at best, and create a nightmare that will never work at worst.

[T chop]

Ok that sounds not to bad, I was in the process of relocating my panels to the glove box but what I did was cut the harness, pull it out of the engine bay, loop it around the other way and solder it back together, but now it just looks fucked and it would probably be easier for me to just start over.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by T chop

Ok that sounds not to bad, I was in the process of relocating my panels to the glove box but what I did was cut the harness, pull it out of the engine bay, loop it around the other way and solder it back together, but now it just looks fucked and it would probably be easier for me to just start over.

Hope you marked everything, because I can think of 6 or 8 wires that are exactly the same size (or vary by one size) and have the same colors, in the same area. I've seen quite a few hacked chassis harnesses that don't work after something like that, and we have to start over.

[hpipro4]

agreed!!! sharpie n tape is ur buddy in wire tucking.

[T chop]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Hope you marked everything, because I can think of 6 or 8 wires that are exactly the same size (or vary by one size) and have the same colors, in the same area. I've seen quite a few hacked chassis harnesses that don't work after something like that, and we have to start over.

Ya I numbered them, but anyway I'm going to start 100% fresh. Engine harness is untouched and will remain untouched until everything is sorted out and I have my final setup as far as intake mani etc.

What do you guys think of using this setup?
14 CIRCUIT FUSE PANEL W/FLASHERS/HORN RELAY on eBay.ca (item 110448768946 end time 16-Dec-10 09:54:24 EST)

"
TR-1400 Replacement Fuse Block

The TR-1400 Replacement Fuse Block kit allows for just the fuse panel in your vehicle to be replaced. The TR-1400 also includes many of the great features that our complete wiring kits have. It includes:

• 14 Pre-wired and Fused Circuits
• High / Low Beam
• Parking Lights
• Gauge Power / Interior / Dash Lights
• Turn Signal / Hazard Lights
• Brake Lights
• Horn / Cooling Fan Circuit
• Ignition/Coil/Distributor
• Starter Circuit
• Charging / Alternator Circuit
• Fuel Pump
• Radio / Accessory (Constant Hot)
• Radio / Accessory (Ignition Hot)
• AC/Heat Power & Fan
• Pre-wired Neutral safety
• 14 ATC Fuses
• Pre-wired Flasher Unit
• Pre-wired Hazard Unit
• Pre-wired Horn Relay
• Compact easy to hide design
• Pre-wired turn signal circuit
• Connections in block are crimped and hand soldered
• Aluminum Base
• Brushed Aluminum Fuse Cover
• Wires labeled by circuit & colored to match GM factory wiring codes
• Instruction Booklet"

[GSXRJJordan]

The generic wiring harness/fuse block setups that I've seen don't do the important stuff very well ~ you're left with one ignition relay (usually fused at 30A) to handle everything that's ignition-switched. Not ideal. Depending on the chassis, you also have problems with lights/blinkers/etc.

Aside from that, they handle the little stuff well, and usually are a compact package.

[T chop]

What would you suggest then with out spending too much money? I want to be able to keep it under $300 for everything, I guess I could spend a little more for a good setup though.

[hpipro4]

thought id update my build......

scored a ka-t stuff locally and decided to take out dash again and re-wire/relocate where my gauges will go...decided that im going to ditch center vent and creat my own triple gauge pod using fiberglass stay tuned...



also wired in an viper 5901 remote start system...lovin it!

ditched the center and taped it with foil tape...y?? i dunno i felt like it..haha


moved some of the relays to the top so their not showing underneath glovebox.


i g0t very creative and modded my toplite that i never use and manage to fit my greddy mss(use as fan controller) in there w/o doing anything to much just using dremel w/cut off wheels and viola!!!!!i think it turn out perdy cool. wat ya think?

[Wake]

You sir, are my hero.

My new plan is to find a dash/chassis/engine room harness out of a 91+ with power options and completely rewire my piggy as a chuki when I do my dohc swap.

Then after i build a custom harness for a track car ill build a new one for my DD.

[GSXRJJordan]

That's supposed to be a tucked dash harness? I mean, I get that you de-loomed it and zip tied it, and I assume you cut some un-needed wiring out, but damn.

That still looks like a whole pile of stuff I don't want/need under a dash.

I'd also look into relay holders that can be mounted to a plate (or that heater box you still have) rather than having all your relays free-hanging and moving.

This is a custom fusebox/relay setup that I did for a SR20'd Datsun 510, retained all OEM functionality (with OEM switches, ugh) in addition to an alarm and 9 gauges.


Another one, you can see the three sections of loom that converge to cross the dash (engine harness, front chassis harness, rear chassis harness) and the back of the bulkhead connectors here


Are you still using the SMJ and driver's side interior fusebox?

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

You sir, are my hero.

My new plan is to find a dash/chassis/engine room harness out of a 91+ with power options and completely rewire my piggy as a chuki when I do my dohc swap.

Then after i build a custom harness for a track car ill build a new one for my DD.

haha im no hero...lol
i am too looking for a black dash.....been hitting my local junkyards but their all junks lol...maybe ill just paint my brown dash instead.

yea i didnt bother sleeving the wires since their underneath the dash...like anyones gonna be peeking thru...lol
works just fine i dont feel like changing em again but thats neat idea tho

[Wake]

I have a badly cracked black dash and a HUD dash with a tiny crack on the hood above the gauge cluster. dunno if that does you any good but if you plan on flocking or fiberglassing or something over a dash I got you covered.

Hey jordan you still any kind of write up or info on the wiring of that 510? I will be doing the same thin on my buddies dime pretty soon.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

Hey jordan you still any kind of write up or info on the wiring of that 510? I will be doing the same thin on my buddies dime pretty soon.

1) Remove all 510 wiring, clip off 2" pigtails for tail light wiring.
2) Pen and paper the new electrical system, choose circuits, fuses, then wire size
3) Run wire, solder into pigtails as close as possible to connector
4) Loom everything. Loom some more. Then do some more looming.
5) Connect crappy 1960's switches to your awesome new harness, making it only slightly more reliable than it was
6) Test
7) /wrists if anything doesn't work, since you've already loomed it all (my stuff always works)

[s13coupej]

What wires u had to extend as for starter and alternator

Originally Posted by hpipro4

haha im no hero...lol
i am too looking for a black dash.....been hitting my local junkyards but their all junks lol...maybe ill just paint my brown dash instead.

yea i didnt bother sleeving the wires since their underneath the dash...like anyones gonna be peeking thru...lol
works just fine i dont feel like changing em again but thats neat idea tho

[idahotuner]

keep the brown, i like it.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by s13coupej

What wires u had to extend as for starter and alternator

I generally run a 100amp inline fuse in a marine fuse holder between the alternator and starter on a street car with 4ga Mil-spec wire, then 4ga back to the battery with a large fuse near the battery to protect the wire running through the car (200A-300A). Then you just loop the alternator exciter wire up to the alternator charge post and you're set.

[Likethunda]

at first i thought "this dude is nuts"..... but as i see your Results..im LIke "Wow".... Mad Props..... whish i had the patients for wiring.... well i guess i might since im building up my hatch right now.. =).....

[hpipro4]

thought id update my build....just recently finished my ka-t here it is....

[usdm180sx]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

wait what kind of brown are you?

Im kinda feeling the brown, watch I guarantee in a year or two everyone is gonna be jocking brown and blue interior.

yeah im about to do a 5sp dohc swap and im thinking of doing a mild tuck and deleting/filling/painting some shit.
My engine bay is getting painted at least if nothing else.

I loves teh brown interior. And I'm Pinoy too Nice job on the wire tuck!

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by usdm180sx

I loves teh brown interior. And I'm Pinoy too Nice job on the wire tuck!

interior is all blk now!!!haha

glad to see other pinoys here...

[punn303]

looks good

[EjMalernee]

Nice job man. This thread and the info in it has helped me so much. I was at a real lost when I started my tuck. Now I understand a lot more.

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by EjMalernee

Nice job man. This thread and the info in it has helped me so much. I was at a real lost when I started my tuck. Now I understand a lot more.

thnx! glad it helped you bro.

[future]

Power numbers?

[hpipro4]

Originally Posted by future

Power numbers?

still havent gone to a dynoshop yet......

[Bubba]

Damnit man. This is probably one of the best threads I've come across so far.
Thanks for all of the helpful info, and thank you Jordan for answering one of my biggest questions.

Harnesses are de-loomed now and I'm laminating my diagrams.