HOW-TO: S14 digital climate control installation - Page 7 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

killer skittle · 03-15-2012, 07:21 PM

We all know the s13 dcc loos way better than the s14 dcc. So has anyone ever put the s13 dcc in there s14? I can follow everything (I read the write ups for both installs) but the mode select (defrost, feet, head/foot...etc) and the heat/cold air seems different.
Does the s14 use a stepper motor to control the how hot or cold air is like the s13?

slydin240sx · 03-15-2012, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killer skittle

We all know the s13 dcc loos way better than the s14 dcc. So has anyone ever put the s13 dcc in there s14? I can follow everything (I read the write ups for both installs) but the mode select (defrost, feet, head/foot...etc) and the heat/cold air seems different.
Does the s14 use a stepper motor to control the how hot or cold air is like the s13?

That would interesting if it were possible. Which I'm sure it is!

silver350z05rb · 05-06-2012, 11:57 AM

Just got mine installed Here are specs:
1-Real Kouki s14 w/ ka24de
2-No A/C system installed in car(so i dont need to tap into the wire for a/c into the ECU because i dont have A/C,since kouki doesnt have the A/C wire running from the OE Analog Clips)
3-All 3 sensors ,DCC and Fan Amp From the same donor car JDM S14 Zenki.
Not Sure why but originally the Fan Amp was not wokring correctly so air wouldnt blow,the amp was so dirty it looked like they dropped the front clip in the middle of the ocean on its way from Japan to the US,they said "OH SHIT" , and picked it back up onto the ship. so i cleaned it with hot water(2 mins),flat head screwdriver,and MAF cleaner,plugged it back in, semi-worked, it would go on and off, (i noticed the amp itself would get very hot, so then that activates the blower,the blower cools off the amp which then it gains control over the speed.if you leave your amp outside of the cooling box and turn on the fan,the amp will get hot, the fan will stay on until you physically remove the key from the car or shove it back into the box so it cools down.)
Back to the semi-working, so i noticed when i pushed in forcefully the 3 wire clip into the amp it would work more often but then stop working like if the connection was lost, so i re-did the connections(that we are suppose to make during install) to the amp at the amp switch and it works all the time, couldve been a combination of bad connections and a nasty Fan Amp.
4. Unit Turns on
5.Currently only venting to defrost.
6.Heat not working(drove 30mns with heater on speed 4 and nothing)
7. the 2 LEDS for the buttons are not making good contact,if i move the lights around they work but then any movement and the lights turn off,I will be looking for replacement bulbs which ive seen in this thread.
8. I followed the OP instructions and nobody eles's instructions (at this point)
8a-I will be trying to get the heat to work by going to the Air Mix connectors.
9.Currently i tapped into the the wire that will lead to one of the wires on the Air mix connector(PBR),I saw here someone posted that you need to sever the line from the car itself and hook it up directly from the Air mix connector to the DCC(i will be trying that)
Also I did see a picture here that seperates the 2 clips, so to make it easier in your head, ....when you start doing the wiring, your going to start with the JDM bigger clip which is the 20pin then at JDM pin 21,thats the smaller clip.
10.All im looking from this for myself is that the heater works and then possibly for the vent to switch over to FOOT or DEFROST, again currently only at defrost,which is better than nothing.
So if you think your Fan Amp doesnt work,then my car is available to try your Amp to see if yours works.

on a side note-At one point during the install, it would vent to foot or defrost, and FOOT/DEFROST, after going back 5 times to recheck wires and move them around correctly somehow correcting some wires made the vent only vent to defrost, perhaps i mixed some around but i checked them according to OP install, and they seem to be correct.if i do the diagnostics on it, i can see ALL the vents open and close!!! but then once I turn the unit on normal, it still only vents to defrost....odd

11. Finally, at last, I left the OEM connectors on the harness in the event i need to go back to stock, i connected both at the same time to try it and they work together,but of course im not keeping both in at the same time, looks funny.

silver350z05rb · 05-06-2012, 02:07 PM

UPDATE:
My heat works, its mostly luke warm how somebody said earlier,but if i put the teperature down to cold, it switched to cold(as cold with no AC) , if i switch it to heat, its definantly noticable.
My connections werent making contact correctly, i was using the quick dissconnects that you can use without having to snip the wire and was using the "blue" quick connects which were apperantly making half contact on some wires and NONE on other wires, so i replaced all the "BLUE" disconnects/connects with "RED" ones which is the one made for smaller gauge wire, after that i got feet/defrost working and heat(or 75% of heat i guess)

1 fixed heating issue(for the most part)
2 fixed foot/defrost vents
3 I DIDNT try what i said in the above post(#8A,#9), unless it means i'll get full heat, but for now im done, its good enough.

also i was getting the code for the sunload sensor so i replaced the BLUE disconnects with the RED ones at the sensors itself and now all my sensors work, i get code 20 which is EVRYTHING IS OK for sensors.
again, i ONLY followed what the OP's guide said. So his guide should at least turn on the device, give you cold/heat----/ foot/defrost-----make all sensors work----give you speed 1,2,3,4. ----AUTO FUNCTION, RECIRCULATE

ctsedan · 06-26-2012, 07:08 PM

Well I had my unit working 100%, no errors. I started to bleed my coolant and left the blower on high while I was doing it and now it wont shut off?
Anyone know what the issue is? I can shut off the DCC but the blower fan will keep going with DCC off?

janmf1983 · 07-12-2012, 03:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctsedan

Well I had my unit working 100%, no errors. I started to bleed my coolant and left the blower on high while I was doing it and now it wont shut off?
Anyone know what the issue is? I can shut off the DCC but the blower fan will keep going with DCC off?

Have you check so the contacts are sitting good in the DCC unit and all the wires are good in to the contact?

Om1kron · 07-12-2012, 03:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctsedan

Well I had my unit working 100%, no errors. I started to bleed my coolant and left the blower on high while I was doing it and now it wont shut off?
Anyone know what the issue is? I can shut off the DCC but the blower fan will keep going with DCC off?

Your fan control amp has gone bad, pretty common issue with these things.

I posted this a few pages back when I had to fix mine instead of buying a new one. Haven't had a problem with it since.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-fi...r-t433421.html

janmf1983 · 07-13-2012, 03:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Yeah I have to put my car in defrost/foot to have air blow to my face and obviously when I have it blow air through the cabin vents it defrosts. I have tried switching the wiring around but I just get error codes when I do that and it wont pass any of the tests.

So curious how just switching two wires worked for you.

Digital----Man
1------- 19 Bi-Level motor
2------- 18 Bi-Level motor
5------- 7 Mode door motor Vent/Def
6------- 8 Mode door motor Vent/Def
21------ 5 Mode door motor F/O
22------ 1+4 Mode door motor Foot/vent
30------ 3+6 Mode door motor Def/bl
31------ 2 Mode door motor Vent

1993fdrx7 · 07-14-2012, 06:10 PM

Great help thank u guys

upsdude · 07-14-2012, 06:22 PM

a friend of mine did this mod to his s13...q45 dcc parts work as well-a couple older infiniti's with dcc's will have sensors that work too, i just forgot the models (the old i30 i think?)

strider hiryu · 07-16-2012, 05:00 PM

I am almost finished with my install but I am trying to add the 2 wires to the intake door motor plug but they won't fit. I depinned the jdm plug and tried adding the wires but they dont fit. I cant use the jdm plug I have because it is broken. How can I add the wires so that I can get the 20% circ options?

janmf1983 · 07-18-2012, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strider hiryu

I am almost finished with my install but I am trying to add the 2 wires to the intake door motor plug but they won't fit. I depinned the jdm plug and tried adding the wires but they dont fit. I cant use the jdm plug I have because it is broken. How can I add the wires so that I can get the 20% circ options?

I guess you have "open" the contact?
If yes try to cut of the littel "locking" pin that is sticking out, I took and depinned the mode door contact (had a spare one), their i had to cut of the littel thing that was sticking out.
Sorry for my bad english...

strider hiryu · 07-18-2012, 03:24 PM

I am getting errors 38,39 and also all the sensor errors. I followed the op guide except I wired all the intake wires according to what other people here said. Anyone know why I would be getting this error?

strider hiryu · 07-20-2012, 03:03 AM

I don't know what happened but when I was messing around with the wiring for pin 33 my Dcc won't power on anymore. I check the current and the 12v source has power. I rewired everything as the op guide had it but it still won't power on. Did I burn out the unit? Does anyone have any advice on how to get it working again? I just want it to work I don't care about the 20% functions anymore.

janmf1983 · 07-23-2012, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strider hiryu

I don't know what happened but when I was messing around with the wiring for pin 33 my Dcc won't power on anymore. I check the current and the 12v source has power. I rewired everything as the op guide had it but it still won't power on. Did I burn out the unit? Does anyone have any advice on how to get it working again? I just want it to work I don't care about the 20% functions anymore.

Have you check pin nr 12? Acc power?
And nr 11, 12v battery.
and nr 20 is ground.
If 11 and 12 has power. and 20 is ground, then the unit is bad.
Cut the orginal wire to air mix motor contact 3 and hook up nr 33 straight to air mix motor contact 3.
Since the DCC unit is giving that motor 5v instead of 12v like the manual ac.

strider hiryu · 07-23-2012, 10:44 AM

Thanks for your help. I have checked pin 12 and 20 but I havent checked pin 11 yet. As for pin 33, If I cut the wire does that wire get connected from the plug to the dcc? or does the side of the wire that was cut off from the plug get connected to the dcc?

janmf1983 · 07-24-2012, 04:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strider hiryu

Thanks for your help. I have checked pin 12 and 20 but I havent checked pin 11 yet. As for pin 33, If I cut the wire does that wire get connected from the plug to the dcc? or does the side of the wire that was cut off from the plug get connected to the dcc?

Shall go from the dcc plug nr 33 to air mix plug nr 3. Shall NOT connect the one you cut off.
Because the DCC unit is sending out 5v to the air mix motor.

I did the same mistake when i was doing mine. Nothing bad happend but it gave error 26 if dont remember wrong.
Possibel you have blowen a fuse or something.
If you want i can take some picture of how I done it with the air mix contact.
Send me a mail if you have more troubel. [email protected]

strider hiryu · 08-13-2012, 09:25 PM

got my dcc and hud working. turned out to be that I didn't have the fan amp wired correctly and the pin33 was hooked up to the pbm wire going to the car not the plug. I get codes 20 and 30!

doggy · 08-16-2012, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killer skittle

We all know the s13 dcc loos way better than the s14 dcc. So has anyone ever put the s13 dcc in there s14? I can follow everything (I read the write ups for both installs) but the mode select (defrost, feet, head/foot...etc) and the heat/cold air seems different.
Does the s14 use a stepper motor to control the how hot or cold air is like the s13?

Did anyone manage to do this? I found this photo on this forum, so I guess someone knows how to, and its possible.

I bought S13 digital climate and want to fit it in S14a.

EDIT: I just found out that this is S13 with S14 interior fitted in

Hoffman5982 · 08-23-2012, 11:03 PM

Hey guys, I am re-wiring my dcc again onto a new dash harness(my current one is hacked). With the entire harness out of the car I've been able to trace a few wires and found a few things that could make the job easier. Only one of them really applies to those following the Chuonthis guide, and the others apply to those taking the long route and adding the 2 wires to the plug above the airbag.

I also want to point out that so far I have only been working on the smaller JDM plug, pins 21-34. When I get the larger plug I'll be able to go through that and possibly find more than I already have.

Pin 33 on JDM PlugThis is the 5V source, where the guide says to run a wire to Plug M33 Air Mix Door Motor. Now, this works fine. That's how I currently have mine wired in my car. But, after tracing it, the wire goes and joins Pin 14 on the USDM plug, which is Pin 12-IGN on the JDM Plug. It is L/OR. There's no inline resistor or anything, so you can simply tap into that and save yourself a little bit of wire and less pain trying to solder in a wire while cramped in the footwell of your car.

Also, and this might be the biggest news so I'll bold it: For those who got their unit without the pigtails and can't find an M30 to source from, I have a solution. The larger rectangular plug on the USDM unit will fit. We all know that, but I have found that s14's also have the larger plug in another area of the dash harness, near the M63/F3 Plug. Unfortunately I'm not 100% sure what it is used for, but if you can find an s14 in the junkyard you can grab it. It will require 2 extra pins, so while you're at it grab the USDM a/c plugs so you can have unlimited extra pins. Here is a picture of the location of the plug. I will try to get out to the parts car I grabbed the harness from and find what it connects to.

As for my other findings, they pertain to those going the 100% functioning route. I will be doing a write up for that in the next few things since there really isn't one out there.

I hope this is helpful to some!

Update- I didn't find any helpful info when doing the larger plug. But I did find that the location of the larger plug is for the ASCD Control Unit. I had to take the blower motor out to get to it, but you might be able to get up and under there without pulling the dash and going through all that trouble.

keaning · 11-01-2012, 08:00 PM

If any of you are still here, where'd you find the JDM fsm/ wiring diagram

janmf1983 · 11-02-2012, 02:45 AM

google sr20det repair manual.
S14 200SX SR20DET Service Manual

Tkoppab · 11-19-2012, 12:45 AM

How's it going fellas, just finished my wiring up on my 95 s14 and plugged it all in for a quick check. Everything lights up, everything seems to somewhat work except for all the codes going on which I will check out this next long weekend. My big issue which only started after I finished it all up was that my car is idling around 2200 rpm. I let it warm up and even took it out for a drive but it wont go down as it should. I am stumped at what could have caused this. Any input for now until I check my wiring? which i know is correct for the most part but will review again. Now i'll have to control the idle with my clutch for now lol

keaning · 11-19-2012, 12:53 AM

Yea I'm working on putting an s13 unit in my s14 and right now I need the mix door motor and I think one other thing and I'm not positive about all the random parts I got from sentras and altimas, so keep posted

janmf1983 · 11-19-2012, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tkoppab

How's it going fellas, just finished my wiring up on my 95 s14 and plugged it all in for a quick check. Everything lights up, everything seems to somewhat work except for all the codes going on which I will check out this next long weekend. My big issue which only started after I finished it all up was that my car is idling around 2200 rpm. I let it warm up and even took it out for a drive but it wont go down as it should. I am stumped at what could have caused this. Any input for now until I check my wiring? which i know is correct for the most part but will review again. Now i'll have to control the idle with my clutch for now lol

How did you wire it did you follow chuonthis guide?

Tkoppab · 11-19-2012, 01:17 AM

I followed both the chuonthis guide and also robbies depinning write up since the plugs that got sold to me were from another car and the colors didnt match up.

janmf1983 · 11-19-2012, 01:35 AM

1-19 BiLevel door motor
2-18 BiLevel door motor
5-7 Mode door motor Vent/Def
6-8 Mode door motor Vent/Def
If you see in the manual and look at the wire schemati and look at the function and you will understand why it should be like i write it.
and not like chuonthis has write it.
He has
1-18
2-19
5-8
6-7

I did the same mistake when i did mine.
33 should go direct from DCC unit to the air mix motor pin nr 3, you need to cut out the wire that is coming from the car.
Just straight from 33 to nr 3 on the air mix motor.

Have you wired up the 2 extra wires to the intake door motor?
And nr 17 how have you wired that?

Tkoppab · 11-19-2012, 04:46 PM

So i figured out what was causing it to rev so high and I feel like an idiot for not noticing right away but figured it out on my long drive home from work and then had a clear mind. Haha. So while putting in the ambient sensor wiring through the harness firewall hole i ended up pulling the cruise control cable out of its place and thus high idle! Lol. Well at least thats fixed now. I will fix the rest of it this long weekend. It all works for the most part. Haha my heater just wont work but thats from before the swap.

Tkoppab · 11-24-2012, 10:47 PM

I ended up having just two of the wires backwards and already added the two other intake door wires today without taking the dash off. Not easy but not impossible.

My big question is that when i plug it in it seems as if the AC goes automatically on. Is this normal or is something backwards? I would hate to put the extra strain on the engine all the time. I

Tkoppab · 12-05-2012, 09:17 PM

I cant to save my life seem to figure out how to get rid of my code -26. I have the wire straight to pin 33. And everything else seems right. Lots of you guys day you ended up fixing it but dont hint at how you did. Hahaha. Also 31. Thats all. And im stuck at the cold setting. Any help?

05-06-2012, 11:57 AM	#183
silver350z05rb Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: California Age: 37 Posts: 432 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	Just got mine installed Here are specs: 1-Real Kouki s14 w/ ka24de 2-No A/C system installed in car(so i dont need to tap into the wire for a/c into the ECU because i dont have A/C,since kouki doesnt have the A/C wire running from the OE Analog Clips) 3-All 3 sensors ,DCC and Fan Amp From the same donor car JDM S14 Zenki. Not Sure why but originally the Fan Amp was not wokring correctly so air wouldnt blow,the amp was so dirty it looked like they dropped the front clip in the middle of the ocean on its way from Japan to the US,they said "OH SHIT" , and picked it back up onto the ship. so i cleaned it with hot water(2 mins),flat head screwdriver,and MAF cleaner,plugged it back in, semi-worked, it would go on and off, (i noticed the amp itself would get very hot, so then that activates the blower,the blower cools off the amp which then it gains control over the speed.if you leave your amp outside of the cooling box and turn on the fan,the amp will get hot, the fan will stay on until you physically remove the key from the car or shove it back into the box so it cools down.) Back to the semi-working, so i noticed when i pushed in forcefully the 3 wire clip into the amp it would work more often but then stop working like if the connection was lost, so i re-did the connections(that we are suppose to make during install) to the amp at the amp switch and it works all the time, couldve been a combination of bad connections and a nasty Fan Amp. 4. Unit Turns on 5.Currently only venting to defrost. 6.Heat not working(drove 30mns with heater on speed 4 and nothing) 7. the 2 LEDS for the buttons are not making good contact,if i move the lights around they work but then any movement and the lights turn off,I will be looking for replacement bulbs which ive seen in this thread. 8. I followed the OP instructions and nobody eles's instructions (at this point) 8a-I will be trying to get the heat to work by going to the Air Mix connectors. 9.Currently i tapped into the the wire that will lead to one of the wires on the Air mix connector(PBR),I saw here someone posted that you need to sever the line from the car itself and hook it up directly from the Air mix connector to the DCC(i will be trying that) Also I did see a picture here that seperates the 2 clips, so to make it easier in your head, ....when you start doing the wiring, your going to start with the JDM bigger clip which is the 20pin then at JDM pin 21,thats the smaller clip. 10.All im looking from this for myself is that the heater works and then possibly for the vent to switch over to FOOT or DEFROST, again currently only at defrost,which is better than nothing. So if you think your Fan Amp doesnt work,then my car is available to try your Amp to see if yours works. on a side note-At one point during the install, it would vent to foot or defrost, and FOOT/DEFROST, after going back 5 times to recheck wires and move them around correctly somehow correcting some wires made the vent only vent to defrost, perhaps i mixed some around but i checked them according to OP install, and they seem to be correct.if i do the diagnostics on it, i can see ALL the vents open and close!!! but then once I turn the unit on normal, it still only vents to defrost....odd 11. Finally, at last, I left the OEM connectors on the harness in the event i need to go back to stock, i connected both at the same time to try it and they work together,but of course im not keeping both in at the same time, looks funny. Last edited by silver350z05rb; 05-06-2012 at 02:14 PM..

08-23-2012, 11:03 PM	#200
Hoffman5982 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Definitely NOT FL.... Age: 32 Posts: 2,504 Trader Rating: (25) Feedback Score: 25 reviews	Hey guys, I am re-wiring my dcc again onto a new dash harness(my current one is hacked). With the entire harness out of the car I've been able to trace a few wires and found a few things that could make the job easier. Only one of them really applies to those following the Chuonthis guide, and the others apply to those taking the long route and adding the 2 wires to the plug above the airbag. I also want to point out that so far I have only been working on the smaller JDM plug, pins 21-34. When I get the larger plug I'll be able to go through that and possibly find more than I already have. Pin 33 on JDM PlugThis is the 5V source, where the guide says to run a wire to Plug M33 Air Mix Door Motor. Now, this works fine. That's how I currently have mine wired in my car. But, after tracing it, the wire goes and joins Pin 14 on the USDM plug, which is Pin 12-IGN on the JDM Plug. It is L/OR. There's no inline resistor or anything, so you can simply tap into that and save yourself a little bit of wire and less pain trying to solder in a wire while cramped in the footwell of your car. Also, and this might be the biggest news so I'll bold it: For those who got their unit without the pigtails and can't find an M30 to source from, I have a solution. The larger rectangular plug on the USDM unit will fit. We all know that, but I have found that s14's also have the larger plug in another area of the dash harness, near the M63/F3 Plug. Unfortunately I'm not 100% sure what it is used for, but if you can find an s14 in the junkyard you can grab it. It will require 2 extra pins, so while you're at it grab the USDM a/c plugs so you can have unlimited extra pins. Here is a picture of the location of the plug. I will try to get out to the parts car I grabbed the harness from and find what it connects to. As for my other findings, they pertain to those going the 100% functioning route. I will be doing a write up for that in the next few things since there really isn't one out there. I hope this is helpful to some! Update- I didn't find any helpful info when doing the larger plug. But I did find that the location of the larger plug is for the ASCD Control Unit. I had to take the blower motor out to get to it, but you might be able to get up and under there without pulling the dash and going through all that trouble. __________________ Last edited by Hoffman5982; 08-24-2012 at 08:18 PM..

11-24-2012, 10:47 PM	#209
Tkoppab Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: So Cal Posts: 698 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	I ended up having just two of the wires backwards and already added the two other intake door wires today without taking the dash off. Not easy but not impossible. My big question is that when i plug it in it seems as if the AC goes automatically on. Is this normal or is something backwards? I would hate to put the extra strain on the engine all the time. I Last edited by Tkoppab; 11-25-2012 at 11:11 PM.. Reason: Wrong info on there.

03-15-2012, 07:21 PM	#181
killer skittle Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: ga Age: 39 Posts: 219 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	We all know the s13 dcc loos way better than the s14 dcc. So has anyone ever put the s13 dcc in there s14? I can follow everything (I read the write ups for both installs) but the mode select (defrost, feet, head/foot...etc) and the heat/cold air seems different. Does the s14 use a stepper motor to control the how hot or cold air is like the s13?

05-06-2012, 02:07 PM	#184
silver350z05rb Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: California Age: 37 Posts: 432 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	UPDATE: My heat works, its mostly luke warm how somebody said earlier,but if i put the teperature down to cold, it switched to cold(as cold with no AC) , if i switch it to heat, its definantly noticable. My connections werent making contact correctly, i was using the quick dissconnects that you can use without having to snip the wire and was using the "blue" quick connects which were apperantly making half contact on some wires and NONE on other wires, so i replaced all the "BLUE" disconnects/connects with "RED" ones which is the one made for smaller gauge wire, after that i got feet/defrost working and heat(or 75% of heat i guess) 1 fixed heating issue(for the most part) 2 fixed foot/defrost vents 3 I DIDNT try what i said in the above post(#8A,#9), unless it means i'll get full heat, but for now im done, its good enough. also i was getting the code for the sunload sensor so i replaced the BLUE disconnects with the RED ones at the sensors itself and now all my sensors work, i get code 20 which is EVRYTHING IS OK for sensors. again, i ONLY followed what the OP's guide said. So his guide should at least turn on the device, give you cold/heat----/ foot/defrost-----make all sensors work----give you speed 1,2,3,4. ----AUTO FUNCTION, RECIRCULATE

06-26-2012, 07:08 PM	#185
ctsedan Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wallyworld, CT Posts: 251 Trader Rating: (17) Feedback Score: 17 reviews	Well I had my unit working 100%, no errors. I started to bleed my coolant and left the blower on high while I was doing it and now it wont shut off? Anyone know what the issue is? I can shut off the DCC but the blower fan will keep going with DCC off?

07-14-2012, 06:10 PM	#189
1993fdrx7 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: salmon river Age: 37 Posts: 865 Trader Rating: (32) Feedback Score: 32 reviews	Great help thank u guys

07-14-2012, 06:22 PM	#190
upsdude Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Fontana (the good part) Posts: 2,721 Trader Rating: (46) Rides Gallery: upsdude Feedback Score: 46 reviews	a friend of mine did this mod to his s13...q45 dcc parts work as well-a couple older infiniti's with dcc's will have sensors that work too, i just forgot the models (the old i30 i think?)

07-16-2012, 05:00 PM	#191
strider hiryu Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 805 Posts: 129 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	I am almost finished with my install but I am trying to add the 2 wires to the intake door motor plug but they won't fit. I depinned the jdm plug and tried adding the wires but they dont fit. I cant use the jdm plug I have because it is broken. How can I add the wires so that I can get the 20% circ options?

07-18-2012, 03:24 PM	#193
strider hiryu Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 805 Posts: 129 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	I am getting errors 38,39 and also all the sensor errors. I followed the op guide except I wired all the intake wires according to what other people here said. Anyone know why I would be getting this error?

07-20-2012, 03:03 AM	#194
strider hiryu Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 805 Posts: 129 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	I don't know what happened but when I was messing around with the wiring for pin 33 my Dcc won't power on anymore. I check the current and the 12v source has power. I rewired everything as the op guide had it but it still won't power on. Did I burn out the unit? Does anyone have any advice on how to get it working again? I just want it to work I don't care about the 20% functions anymore.

07-23-2012, 10:44 AM	#196
strider hiryu Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 805 Posts: 129 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Thanks for your help. I have checked pin 12 and 20 but I havent checked pin 11 yet. As for pin 33, If I cut the wire does that wire get connected from the plug to the dcc? or does the side of the wire that was cut off from the plug get connected to the dcc?

08-13-2012, 09:25 PM	#198
strider hiryu Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: 805 Posts: 129 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	got my dcc and hud working. turned out to be that I didn't have the fan amp wired correctly and the pin33 was hooked up to the pbm wire going to the car not the plug. I get codes 20 and 30!

11-01-2012, 08:00 PM	#201
keaning Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: washington Age: 30 Posts: 9 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	If any of you are still here, where'd you find the JDM fsm/ wiring diagram

11-02-2012, 02:45 AM	#202
janmf1983 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Norway Age: 40 Posts: 9 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	google sr20det repair manual. S14 200SX SR20DET Service Manual

11-19-2012, 12:45 AM	#203
Tkoppab Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: So Cal Posts: 698 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	How's it going fellas, just finished my wiring up on my 95 s14 and plugged it all in for a quick check. Everything lights up, everything seems to somewhat work except for all the codes going on which I will check out this next long weekend. My big issue which only started after I finished it all up was that my car is idling around 2200 rpm. I let it warm up and even took it out for a drive but it wont go down as it should. I am stumped at what could have caused this. Any input for now until I check my wiring? which i know is correct for the most part but will review again. Now i'll have to control the idle with my clutch for now lol

11-19-2012, 12:53 AM	#204
keaning Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: washington Age: 30 Posts: 9 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Yea I'm working on putting an s13 unit in my s14 and right now I need the mix door motor and I think one other thing and I'm not positive about all the random parts I got from sentras and altimas, so keep posted

11-19-2012, 01:17 AM	#206
Tkoppab Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: So Cal Posts: 698 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	I followed both the chuonthis guide and also robbies depinning write up since the plugs that got sold to me were from another car and the colors didnt match up.

11-19-2012, 01:35 AM	#207
janmf1983 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Norway Age: 40 Posts: 9 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	1-19 BiLevel door motor 2-18 BiLevel door motor 5-7 Mode door motor Vent/Def 6-8 Mode door motor Vent/Def If you see in the manual and look at the wire schemati and look at the function and you will understand why it should be like i write it. and not like chuonthis has write it. He has 1-18 2-19 5-8 6-7 I did the same mistake when i did mine. 33 should go direct from DCC unit to the air mix motor pin nr 3, you need to cut out the wire that is coming from the car. Just straight from 33 to nr 3 on the air mix motor. Have you wired up the 2 extra wires to the intake door motor? And nr 17 how have you wired that?

11-19-2012, 04:46 PM	#208
Tkoppab Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: So Cal Posts: 698 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	So i figured out what was causing it to rev so high and I feel like an idiot for not noticing right away but figured it out on my long drive home from work and then had a clear mind. Haha. So while putting in the ambient sensor wiring through the harness firewall hole i ended up pulling the cruise control cable out of its place and thus high idle! Lol. Well at least thats fixed now. I will fix the rest of it this long weekend. It all works for the most part. Haha my heater just wont work but thats from before the swap.

12-05-2012, 09:17 PM	#210
Tkoppab Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: So Cal Posts: 698 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	I cant to save my life seem to figure out how to get rid of my code -26. I have the wire straight to pin 33. And everything else seems right. Lots of you guys day you ended up fixing it but dont hint at how you did. Hahaha. Also 31. Thats all. And im stuck at the cold setting. Any help?