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Old 03-02-2005, 11:11 AM   #181
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Ok.. I just got mine in. But ughhh there are no spanner wrenches??? The box looked like it was kicked around..and barely held on with any tape.. what's going on here... ?
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:36 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smog Tech
Ok.. I just got mine in. But ughhh there are no spanner wrenches??? The box looked like it was kicked around..and barely held on with any tape.. what's going on here... ?
Try calling MR...
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:50 AM   #183
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Before

After



Gab&Eibach Vs. Megan Racing



About an inch lower, I'll lower it more later.. Took about an hour to install..and yeah the holes were off..
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Old 03-03-2005, 04:55 AM   #184
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Smog Tech, could you make a post about what you had to do on the $750 defective coilovers?

I know there are several that would like to know....

This applies to anybody who has purchased them?

They must not be too hard to fix, because I haven't gotten any complaints....

P.S.- Your car is hot man!
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:17 AM   #185
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I really suck at writeups, but I'll try.

Installing defective Megan Racing Coilovers 101:

The defective front coilovers have one misaligned hole, for me it happened to be the bottem of the two knuckle holes. At first, I thought you had to make the holes bigger, which was half right. When you take the knuckle bolt with the coilovers off, it wont go in. So what you'd have to do is take the bolt, slide it in the hole and move it around to break off the paint which makes the hole a tad bit smaller so the bolt wont slide in. Once tha'ts complete the paint breaks off and you're able to slide the bolt through the hole. Now the bolt well go all the way through once you've done this on both coilovers. So I figured that was the only dumb thing that went wrong.. And why did Jeff240sx make such a fuss about this stuff? Well, as I was installing the front C/Os it turned out to be more than just paint blocking the bolt from going in. I installed the top bolt first(after installing the three on the pillow mounts) and couldn't get the second bolt in at a straight angle. So I had to notch the bottem of the hole. All you need is a round file and 10 minutes per side(depends how fast you go). Once you have that done, the bolt should go in freely. But since the coilover is shorter, it's pretty difficult to raise the spindle to the coilover. So I had to place a jack under the Lower Control Arm(LCA) with a piece of wood on top to lift up the knuckl assemly. Top bolt went in flawlessly, second bolt needed to be worked alil bit, make sure you push/pull the knuckle assembly to get the holes aligned. You can tap the bolt in or turn it clockwise so it threads itself in. There you have it, coilovers installed nicely upfront.

Rear install is pretty tricky if you do i yourself, ifyou have two people.. it's CAKE.

First, you put down the rear seats. Second, the speaker cover pulls upward(just tug it), and the clips will release. There are two 12mm bolts holding the shock assembly. You will need a 12mmDEEP socket, and a 3" extension, nothing larger, which will give you just enough room so you don't bang on the window. Once you have the 2 bolts on each side removed, you can go under the car and remove a 17mm bolt holding the shock up. Once that is off, you can pull the shock off with force or you can tap it gently with a mallet(pulling the shock off with force can cause you to hit your head or loose your balance, so I suggest a mallet). Now that the shock is off you should be able to manuever it so that the top part of the shock assembly comes out of the upper fender well.

Here is the tricky part. If you're by yourself.. You place the pillow mount in the shock tower, and you let the bottem of the shock sit on the knuckle.. carefully climb in the car, and gently install the bolts wich attaches the pillow mount on the shock tower. If you have two people, you can just have the other person hold the C/O while you tighten the bolts on the inside. Do that on both sides, reinstall the 17mm bolt on the bottem(the washer faces outward like "(" ). You just need some muscel to lift up the rear brake assembly which isn't too hard..cause I did it myself.. 6'1 150lbs..yeah I'm a twig.

So there you have it. I left the height the way they it was, since I don't have any spanner wrenches(must have fell out of the box during shpment, cause it was beatup) to fine tune the system. Ride is a bit bumpier, handles well, braking has improved due to stiffer springs which I noticed immediately.

Just some notes.
Spring rate are 8kg/6kg and 56 is what you multiply the numbers by to get pounds. 448/336. 448lbs is what it takes for the FRONT springs to be compressed ONE inch. 336lbs is what it takes the REAR springs to compress ONE inch. They're also a LINEAR type spring, which means that they compress evenly with weight..meaning for every 1x force it goes down 1". PROGRESSIVE springs like my eibach rear(maybe front to, but they don't seem like it), the spring compresses at a different rate.. something like every 1xforce it compreses 1", then 2xforce, it compreses 1.5".. not exact but that's the concept.

There you have it.

I e-mailed MR about the spanner prolbem, they said they'll send me some as soon as they get some.

EDIT:

This is where you would drill, but on the other side(for me at least)
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Old 03-03-2005, 06:32 PM   #186
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Smog Tech that was a great write up. Yeah the fix for the defective coilovers was really easy. I got a grinding bit from Home Depot for my impact gun. It only took around 2-3 minutes to do both holes. Very easy. I'm very happy with my purchase.
Chris I will try to post up pics after I get a chance to wash my car. Its all gloomy and rainy where I'm at. After looking at Smog Tech's pics of his car, it makes me not want to post pics of my ugly car. But oh well.
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:11 PM   #187
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We're not laughing at you, we're laughing with you....JK....

POST THOSE PICS!
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Old 03-10-2005, 11:08 AM   #188
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I got mine yesterday, they are awesome. Right now, I'm just messing around with the damper settings to find a good daily driving setting and setting I can get used to at the drift practices, overall high-quality at a good price. Thanks a lot umsports.
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Old 03-10-2005, 07:52 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DORIMON
I got mine yesterday, they are awesome. Right now, I'm just messing around with the damper settings to find a good daily driving setting and setting I can get used to at the drift practices, overall high-quality at a good price. Thanks a lot umsports.

witht he suckie asss streets in new orleans, I keep mine at 20 on all 4 corners and it feels great!... although all i have to compare to the ride is the stock suspension that I had before the mr install...
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Old 03-11-2005, 06:12 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzNCmB
witht he suckie asss streets in new orleans, I keep mine at 20 on all 4 corners and it feels great!... although all i have to compare to the ride is the stock suspension that I had before the mr install...
Hi mates :hello:

Can I propose that everybody gives his damping setup?

Personally I use (with 1=Soft 32=Hard)
Front: 6
Rear: 7
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Old 03-11-2005, 07:07 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumly2000
Personally I use (with 1=Soft 32=Hard)
Front: 6
Rear: 7

Why did yo use 1=soft and 32=hard? The description that came with the mr coilovers states that
1-8= suggest for race/track use
9-16= suggest for mountain/anfractuosity use
17-32= suggest for street use

so 1= hardest and 32= softest.....please don't confuse us...

thanks....post ur setup guys...
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Old 03-11-2005, 08:22 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzNCmB
Why did yo use 1=soft and 32=hard? ...
Very easy to understand.

Question: How do you set up your damping?
Answer: You "unscrew" the damper to start from the softer position.
Then you "screw" the damper and count the "clik" to obtain the good dampig rate.
It's the Tein procedure and the only good procedure.

Basicly why do you want to make a subtraction of a value when you've got direct reading ???

Anyway if you tell what is your repository I don't see any kind of problems
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Old 03-11-2005, 09:15 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumly2000
Very easy to understand.

Question: How do you set up your damping?
Answer: You "unscrew" the damper to start from the softer position.
Then you "screw" the damper and count the "clik" to obtain the good dampig rate.
It's the Tein procedure and the only good procedure.

Basicly why do you want to make a subtraction of a value when you've got direct reading ???

Anyway if you tell what is your repository I don't see any kind of problems
What is wrong with you? You don't have to subtract. Just count the X amount of clicks you turn it clockwise from stiff, and you're set.
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Old 03-11-2005, 12:54 PM   #194
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Smog Tech cool
You don't know think different think Grumly?

1-8= suggest for race/track use
9-16= suggest for mountain/anfractuosity use
17-32= suggest for street use
1= hardest and 32= softest


Grumly setup is:
Front : 26
Rear: 25

AzNCmB setup is:
Front: 20
Rear: 20


...
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Old 03-13-2005, 03:27 AM   #195
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I installed the coilovers last week on my 89 nissan Laurel with rb20det. took about 1.5 hours because i had to slot the holes on my rear strut bar to accomodate the larger strut top nuts and that took me about 35 minutes with a file . i just jacked the whole car up, put it on stands, and then used a jack under the lower control arms to lift the lower mounts up so i could install the shorter coilover units. very easy install if you don't have a home-made rear strut brace.

for the laurel, the front was wayyyyy lower than the rear, as they are heavier in the front than a silvia. but it still sits better than it did with spring/shock combo. I will get around to adjusting it when i have time. I've played with damper settings and currently have it at 10 front, 7 rear, and the ride is great and handles awesome, albeit it is abit rough on the old new zealand road surfaces. i currently have 17x7.5" mags on the rear and stock 15x6" mags up front as i just sold my other set of 17's as i'm upgrading to 5stud next week, so i'll mess around with settings after that.

heres some pics of the install:

clearance on the front with stock 15x6" mags, plenty of room.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...r/DVC00126.jpg

front tophats from in engine bay
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...r/DVC00125.jpg

front install pics
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...r/DVC00124.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...r/DVC00119.jpg

rear tophat from inside trunk
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...r/DVC00121.jpg

rear install
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...r/DVC00120.jpg

they just look so much more BLING than my old ones!!
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Old 03-13-2005, 04:41 PM   #196
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Their a beauty!....Congrats guys on your setups....I really appreciate the pic and help you've given to the other members...Makes my life easier..

Take care and send me your orders if you need a set...

Chris
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Old 03-15-2005, 07:53 PM   #197
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can you do s14 front and z32 rear coilovers for guys with z32 rear uprights? or first off..does megan even make z32 coilovers? thanks
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Old 03-16-2005, 05:38 AM   #198
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Nope, cant mix and match....

P.S.- Guys it appears my UM Sports email address isnt working with our server....

so temporarily send all emails to [email protected]- this is my personal email address..

Thanks!
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Old 03-16-2005, 09:14 AM   #199
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would these compare to the silkroad a8?
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Old 03-16-2005, 10:04 AM   #200
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Yes, these would easily compare to the SilkRoads...
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Old 03-16-2005, 06:43 PM   #201
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perhaps they are made in the same factory too

haha
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Old 03-16-2005, 08:59 PM   #202
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Shh.....we gotta keep the prices down on these....

But from what I have been told, its the same manufacturer....
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:38 PM   #203
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got mine today, they look pretty solid

they're going in this coming week. gotta do that drilling thing, although i cant figure out which hole is "defective", gotta get the time to check it out
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:47 PM   #204
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If you make the bottem fit in smoothly..then you have to drill out the bottem of the top ones. I wonder if the apex evc c/os have this problem????
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:51 PM   #205
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lol i think it was just this batch of MRs...cuz not all of them are like that too
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:24 PM   #206
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hey i donno if anyone posted this yet, but i just put mine in today, and the rear dampening adjustment screw will not stop turning in any direction for me...i even counted off 32 in one direction to see if it was just me being impatient...it dosent stop turning.

anyone got words of wisdom for me?
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Old 03-20-2005, 06:37 PM   #207
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Update.
Megan Racing Coilovers = Apexi N1 EXV.




oh btw, taiwan rules the world.
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Old 03-20-2005, 06:56 PM   #208
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What is happening is several of the Japanese companies have had 10-15 year agreements with several China/Taiwan based companies to only produce for them...

This year, there are a few Japanese companies who are going to be left trying to find new manufacturers as these China/Taiwan companies are hoping to sell directly to the USA...

Look for many great bargains coming later this fall, it's gonna be exciting...
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1998 RB26DETT 240SX 810whp@28lbs
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Old 03-21-2005, 08:20 AM   #209
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ok when i am adjusting the coilovers, do i need to pull the knob up and then turn it and drop it down? or do i just turn the knob? cuz it dosent seem to wanna turn unless i do the former.

i'm kinda confused lol
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Old 03-21-2005, 10:58 AM   #210
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It's time to let the cat out of the bag...

I have said the MR coilovers are resold by several brands, and rebadged by many of the JDM brands...

I'll let you guys put 2 and 2 together...

Apexi N1 coilovers: $2500
MR's: $900
Saving $1600 on the same coilover: Priceless.....





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