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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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05-03-2017, 10:40 PM | #21001 | ||
GM2 (SW/AW)
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However the regulation is done by the obvious FPR. Having an amount of extra hose is not going to interfere with your fuel pressure. At most it would take a second longer for your fuel system to fully pressurize. The priming of the pump would negate this I would assume. I've never had issues with using a slightly longer piece of hose up to the FPR. Using longer hose to the fuel rail would not necessarily benefit you either.
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05-03-2017, 10:44 PM | #21002 | |
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05-03-2017, 10:49 PM | #21003 | ||
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If you're staying stock fpr there's no point to try and remote mount it. Additionally I stick to what I said before. You aren't going to notice anything if the hoses aren't a mile long.
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05-03-2017, 11:16 PM | #21004 |
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I dont think it matters much. Just keep your FPR on your strut tower and youll be fine. There arent many places in the engine bay that can really move it REALLY far away from the fuel rail. See below image for where I have mine placed (on left next to coolant overflow)...
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05-04-2017, 09:49 AM | #21006 |
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I have a Defi water temp sensor that is installed into that coolant adapter hose thing.
Well I am purchasing a fan controller and was wondering if it is fine for me to tap into that sensor and have it also feed my circuit sports fan controller from it instead of using the circuit sports sensor as well? Last edited by JrDarknes; 05-04-2017 at 11:07 AM.. |
05-04-2017, 01:54 PM | #21007 | |||
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I have the Circuit sports electric fan controller, I stuck with the included sensors. I've always read you don't want to splice into a resistance type sensor. But I don't know whether or not the Nissan sensors are resistance types. I've also came across a couple SPAL fan manuals that show it done that way. This is something I came across in the past as well: Quote:
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05-04-2017, 04:00 PM | #21008 | |
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05-04-2017, 05:48 PM | #21009 |
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So about 6 months ago I stopped driving my SR'd 240. I leave it parked and I usually turn it over once a week just to idle but I haven't driven it hard since I parked it. I notice about a week ago my car would sputter and back fire. I'm assuming that it's symptoms of bad gas seeing that I didn't do any major modification except for GREDDY EBC/ ADJUSTABLE FPR set to 43-50 on idle.
My car sits outside exposed to the elements. Could I have accumulated enough condensation to have "water" mixed with my gas seeing that I don't drive it often? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
05-04-2017, 06:27 PM | #21010 | |
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I'm amazed you took the time to respond to this post quoting people n shit, fuckin self righteous prick |
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05-04-2017, 09:27 PM | #21011 |
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I think I have water mixed with my gasoline, best way to remedy this problem should I just throw some heet in the tank or just siphon the entire gas tank empty.
Any recommendations on how to avoid future problems because my 240 was my daily but I no longer daily it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
05-04-2017, 11:45 PM | #21013 | ||
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I'd suggest you either contribute to the community or stop being a piece of shit. There are really no ultimatums
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05-05-2017, 08:29 AM | #21015 |
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Is there such thing as a Bride Zeta 3 replica seat? I'm the one I'm interested in had a black shell, but it is a "sport" edition.
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05-05-2017, 11:42 AM | #21016 | |
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I still contend your self-righteousness |
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05-05-2017, 12:02 PM | #21017 |
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I have a question. And I am new to this website, but I was thinking about welding my Differential and was wondering about the whole breaking Axles thing. If as of right now I run a 17x10 245/45/r17 in the rear, will that cause my rear Axles to break after a while or would I be okay?
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05-05-2017, 12:23 PM | #21018 | |||
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I'm having some déjÃ* vu over here. Cut it out. http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=319087 http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-stron...s-t358091.html
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05-05-2017, 02:03 PM | #21020 |
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245/45R17 will spin long before it breaks... now if you were on a 285-310 series, then you would most likely snap an axle, but youd have to be running almost no camber on as much contact patch as possible. i run -1deg of camber (factory spec) front and rear with 225/45R17 F and 245/40R17 R... i chirp second gear with a pretty much stock SR running an S15 SpecR turbo at 12psi, FMIC, stock ECU, stock MAF and stock injectors. I had 235/35R18s on my last S13 and I made 308whp aaaaaaaaand I would cook the shit out of the tires until 4th gear... now mind you this is because i was running like -4deg of camber on an 18x9.5 +15 wheel. my current advans are 17x8.5 +30 and 17x9.5 +38. i run factory camber/toe as i prefer getting power to the ground now instead of "OHHELLFUCKYEAHDRIFTLIFE4EVASWINGINGONWHEELFITMENT SNUTS" because i decided to grow up and have real race car lol
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05-06-2017, 11:35 AM | #21021 |
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This has been holding me up from dropping in my engine for a couple days now, after combing through dozens of emissions removal threads I can't find much info about removing #1 and #2 in the picture. I would like to remove all emissions to clean it up and simplify diagnosing problems in the future. So my question is if I delete numbers 1 2 and 4 will it idle weird or throw any codes? also, If I do does #3 still need to see vacuum? would a vacuum block suffice? Thanks in advance |
05-06-2017, 09:15 PM | #21022 | |
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05-07-2017, 05:41 PM | #21023 |
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Is this an LSD or VLSD? It was in a VLSD pumpkin but I suspect it's an LSD. If LSD, how would I go about figuring out the brand?
Edit: So I'm 99% sure it's a Nismo 2-way. I was going to run some non-synthetic Lucas 80w-90 with motorcraft XL-3 friction modifier. Any other recommendations? Last edited by dazed; 05-07-2017 at 07:49 PM.. |
05-07-2017, 09:38 PM | #21024 |
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^deff looks like a nismo
For the oil, I'd suggest Valvoline SynPower 75w140 limited slip, it's a great oil with no need for additional friction modifiers. It's GL-5, that's what's preferred for our diffs in general. The Lucas 80w90 is probably a GL-4, not sure on the nismo specifically though. Nice diff btw! |
05-07-2017, 10:34 PM | #21025 | |
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As for fluid, I ran a similar combination in my KAAZ. Castrol Hypoid-C 80W90, which is GL-5 and mineral (explicitly required by KAAZ), and a bottle of Ford Friction Modifier. At <$20 per change, it was a no-brainer to chose that over the KAAZ fluid. My car was track only, and so I changed the fluid every 2-3 events. Ran clear every time. Could probably extend to every 4-5 events. If I were street driving, I would change with every engine oil change. I swear I picked up that tip from Drift Bible or something lol |
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05-07-2017, 11:33 PM | #21026 | ||
Zilvia FREAK!
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Thanks for the replies fellas. Looks like Nismo sells an 80w90 full synthetic oil for use with their diffs, one of the few brands that does take synthetic. The Lucas I have meets GL-5 specs, so I'm probably going to just run that with the motorcraft friction modifier. Was a little surprised it's a 2-way, this thing is super quiet and well mannered. + rep'd both of you |
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05-08-2017, 09:31 AM | #21027 |
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What are today value for these seats and the demand.
-S15 Autech/spec r Seats (pair) -S15 Seats (pair) -R32 GTR Seats (pair) -180sx Seats (pair) -Bride Brix (pair) -bride brix(black one) And s15 rear seats. I have them just dont know how much they go for now and days. |
05-08-2017, 05:49 PM | #21028 | |
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I'll give you $200 shipped for the S15 seats |
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05-08-2017, 06:15 PM | #21030 |
ITS LISA'S FAULT!!!
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thats a negative sir!
two totally different parts/shapes! S14 SR20det uses a different intake manifold design than the 13 SR20det does. S13 IACV: S14 IACV: |
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