Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

Adjustable FPR, i was wondering does the length of fuel tubing effect the fuel pressure at all. I've done some searching and some people have the FPR close to the rail and some "not so close" any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Fuel pressure regulation is done by the specific part itself, if you had feet upon feet of useless hose leading up to the regulator, you may have issues?

However the regulation is done by the obvious FPR. Having an amount of extra hose is not going to interfere with your fuel pressure. At most it would take a second longer for your fuel system to fully pressurize.

The priming of the pump would negate this I would assume. I've never had issues with using a slightly longer piece of hose up to the FPR. Using longer hose to the fuel rail would not necessarily benefit you either.

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

Fuel pressure regulation is done by the specific part itself, if you had feet upon feet of useless hose leading up to the regulator, you may have issues?

However the regulation is done by the obvious FPR. Having an amount of extra hose is not going to interfere with your fuel pressure. At most it would take a second longer for your fuel system to fully pressurize.

The priming of the pump would negate this I would assume. I've never had issues with using a slightly longer piece of hose up to the FPR. Using longer hose to the fuel rail would not necessarily benefit you either.

thanks for the response, i figured at most the pressure would be controlled and regulated by the FPR. i was just curious to see if the mounting location was for pure aesthetics or actual function. thanks again

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

thanks for the response, i figured at most the pressure would be controlled and regulated by the FPR. i was just curious to see if the mounting location was for pure aesthetics or actual function. thanks again

Mounting location? Ah, you can do a remote FPR if you want yeah sure. but there's no point unless your build requires an adjustable ex rising rate etc FPR.

If you're staying stock fpr there's no point to try and remote mount it.


Additionally I stick to what I said before. You aren't going to notice anything if the hoses aren't a mile long.

[dorkidori_s13]

I dont think it matters much. Just keep your FPR on your strut tower and youll be fine. There arent many places in the engine bay that can really move it REALLY far away from the fuel rail. See below image for where I have mine placed (on left next to coolant overflow)...

[S-Nation S13]

I know i need to clean it up lol

[JrDarknes]

I have a Defi water temp sensor that is installed into that coolant adapter hose thing.

Well I am purchasing a fan controller and was wondering if it is fine for me to tap into that sensor and have it also feed my circuit sports fan controller from it instead of using the circuit sports sensor as well?

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

I have a Defi water temp sensor that is installed into that coolant adapter hose thing.

Well I am purchasing a fan controller and was wondering if it is fine for me to tap into that sensor and have it also feed my circuit sports fan controller from it instead of using the circuit sports sensor as well?

I have the Circuit sports electric fan controller, I stuck with the included sensors.


I've always read you don't want to splice into a resistance type sensor. But I don't know whether or not the Nissan sensors are resistance types.


I've also came across a couple SPAL fan manuals that show it done that way.

This is something I came across in the past as well:

It's entirely possible to use the SPAL on the same circuit as the stock temperature sensor. The SPAL would simply have to be high impedance, which would limit the impact on the existing circuit.

My note to SPAL:

I'm looking at your FAN-PWM to control a Taurus fan on my 1988 Toyota 4Runner with the 3VZ-E V6 engine and AC. Your documentation suggests that I can just splice into the OEM sensor wire, but I've been told that it's usually not possible to share a resistance type sensor between two circuits.

Can you verify for me that the setup you outline in the manual, where the FAN-PWH white connector is spliced into the positive Toyota OEM temp sensor wire, will work?

SPAL response:

Yes you are correct you cannot use 2 active current sources together on 1 resistor without having them fight and or feed into each other. But the white input wire of the PWM is actually a passive input with a very high input resistance (>500k). Depending on the resistance of the sensor in question the addition of this wire may have very small effect on readout for the gauge/computer, but it would typically be less than 1%. The error between temperature cycles for the sensor itself will probably be greater.

Cite: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...mp-sensor.html

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

I'm amazed at the age it shows under your name, combined with the response that came from your username.



I don't deny that giving people shit is a gratuitous situation. However if there's someone that's currently offering a viable support line, there really is no reason to be a piece of shit and add to the negativity. Tossing the guy a bone is the least you can do for him, helping him would be a start.

Obviously someone has offered to help this gentleman, no need for you to come in now and act like an ass. I don't care what you think your excuse is. See below.




As stated, as answered. Just stop trying to play cool guy, this is small questions, the entire reason for this shit. Stop trying to be top dog.


Don't stop asking questions buddy. Everyone is trying to be a keyboard hero, including the jerk-offs here. I've learned from the military the only bad question is one not asked. Keep on keepin on.

Just de-pressurize the fuel rail, and remove the FPR. It's not that huge of a deal.

Who the fuck is this guy? GFTO with your judgemental ass

[S-Nation S13]

So about 6 months ago I stopped driving my SR'd 240. I leave it parked and I usually turn it over once a week just to idle but I haven't driven it hard since I parked it. I notice about a week ago my car would sputter and back fire. I'm assuming that it's symptoms of bad gas seeing that I didn't do any major modification except for GREDDY EBC/ ADJUSTABLE FPR set to 43-50 on idle.

My car sits outside exposed to the elements. Could I have accumulated enough condensation to have "water" mixed with my gas seeing that I don't drive it often?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

I'm amazed at the age it shows under your name, combined with the response that came from your username.



I don't deny that giving people shit is a gratuitous situation. However if there's someone that's currently offering a viable support line, there really is no reason to be a piece of shit and add to the negativity. Tossing the guy a bone is the least you can do for him, helping him would be a start.

Obviously someone has offered to help this gentleman, no need for you to come in now and act like an ass. I don't care what you think your excuse is. See below.




As stated, as answered. Just stop trying to play cool guy, this is small questions, the entire reason for this shit. Stop trying to be top dog.


Don't stop asking questions buddy. Everyone is trying to be a keyboard hero, including the jerk-offs here. I've learned from the military the only bad question is one not asked. Keep on keepin on.

Just de-pressurize the fuel rail, and remove the FPR. It's not that huge of a deal.

I'm amazed you took the time to respond to this post quoting people n shit, fuckin self righteous prick

[S-Nation S13]

I think I have water mixed with my gasoline, best way to remedy this problem should I just throw some heet in the tank or just siphon the entire gas tank empty.

Any recommendations on how to avoid future problems because my 240 was my daily but I no longer daily it.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lunchmeat]

Drain the tank. Use sta-bil fuel stabilizer if it's going to sit for a while.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

I'm amazed you took the time to respond to this post quoting people n shit, fuckin self righteous prick

Between 6PM and 827PM you somehow decided to reply again to this thread without any additional outside input.

I'd suggest you either contribute to the community or stop being a piece of shit. There are really no ultimatums

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by lunchmeat

Drain the tank. Use sta-bil fuel stabilizer if it's going to sit for a while.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Thank you for response sta-bil it is. I'll give it a shot


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DriftingBrandon]

Is there such thing as a Bride Zeta 3 replica seat? I'm the one I'm interested in had a black shell, but it is a "sport" edition.

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

Between 6PM and 827PM you somehow decided to reply again to this thread without any additional outside input.

I'd suggest you either contribute to the community or stop being a piece of shit. There are really no ultimatums

Ok fine just this once and just for you I'll stop being a piece of shit.

I still contend your self-righteousness

[Mrodriguez124578]

I have a question. And I am new to this website, but I was thinking about welding my Differential and was wondering about the whole breaking Axles thing. If as of right now I run a 17x10 245/45/r17 in the rear, will that cause my rear Axles to break after a while or would I be okay?

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

Ok fine just this once and just for you I'll stop being a piece of shit.

I still contend your self-righteousness

You've earned yourself some signature fame for that one.

Originally Posted by Mrodriguez124578

I have a question. And I am new to this website, but I was thinking about welding my Differential and was wondering about the whole breaking Axles thing. If as of right now I run a 17x10 245/45/r17 in the rear, will that cause my rear Axles to break after a while or would I be okay?

You've got to stop copy/pasting this shit in every thread... This is the place for you to ask this. At least you managed to find your way here.


I'm having some déj?* vu over here. Cut it out.

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=319087

http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-stron...s-t358091.html

[Mrodriguez124578]

Sorry about that, I'm just new here so I didn't know which thread

[dorkidori_s13]

245/45R17 will spin long before it breaks... now if you were on a 285-310 series, then you would most likely snap an axle, but youd have to be running almost no camber on as much contact patch as possible. i run -1deg of camber (factory spec) front and rear with 225/45R17 F and 245/40R17 R... i chirp second gear with a pretty much stock SR running an S15 SpecR turbo at 12psi, FMIC, stock ECU, stock MAF and stock injectors. I had 235/35R18s on my last S13 and I made 308whp aaaaaaaaand I would cook the shit out of the tires until 4th gear... now mind you this is because i was running like -4deg of camber on an 18x9.5 +15 wheel. my current advans are 17x8.5 +30 and 17x9.5 +38. i run factory camber/toe as i prefer getting power to the ground now instead of "OHHELLFUCKYEAHDRIFTLIFE4EVASWINGINGONWHEELFITMENT SNUTS" because i decided to grow up and have real race car lol

[hatch4life]

This has been holding me up from dropping in my engine for a couple days now, after combing through dozens of emissions removal threads I can't find much info about removing #1 and #2 in the picture. I would like to remove all emissions to clean it up and simplify diagnosing problems in the future. So my question is if I delete numbers 1 2 and 4 will it idle weird or throw any codes? also, If I do does #3 still need to see vacuum? would a vacuum block suffice? Thanks in advance

[hatch4life]

This has been holding me up from dropping in my engine for a couple days now, after combing through dozens of emissions removal threads I can't find much info about removing #1 and #2 in the picture. I would like to remove all emissions to clean it up and simplify diagnosing problems in the future. So my question is if I delete numbers 1 2 and 4 will it idle weird or throw any codes? also, If I do does #3 still need to see vacuum? would a vacuum block suffice? Thanks in advance

anyone? this has been a huge headache

[dazed]

Is this an LSD or VLSD? It was in a VLSD pumpkin but I suspect it's an LSD. If LSD, how would I go about figuring out the brand?


Edit: So I'm 99% sure it's a Nismo 2-way.

I was going to run some non-synthetic Lucas 80w-90 with motorcraft XL-3 friction modifier. Any other recommendations?

[Standard]

^deff looks like a nismo

For the oil, I'd suggest Valvoline SynPower 75w140 limited slip, it's a great oil with no need for additional friction modifiers. It's GL-5, that's what's preferred for our diffs in general. The Lucas 80w90 is probably a GL-4, not sure on the nismo specifically though. Nice diff btw!

[derass]

Originally Posted by dazed

Is this an LSD or VLSD?

I was going to run some non-synthetic Lucas 80w-90 with motorcraft XL-3 friction modifier. Any other recommendations?

Definetly a 2-way. The cam-ramps are a dead giveaway. Also the shape of the VLSD carrier is different, it has a large "chamfer" at the side opposite of the ring gear.

As for fluid, I ran a similar combination in my KAAZ. Castrol Hypoid-C 80W90, which is GL-5 and mineral (explicitly required by KAAZ), and a bottle of Ford Friction Modifier. At <$20 per change, it was a no-brainer to chose that over the KAAZ fluid. My car was track only, and so I changed the fluid every 2-3 events. Ran clear every time. Could probably extend to every 4-5 events. If I were street driving, I would change with every engine oil change. I swear I picked up that tip from Drift Bible or something lol

[dazed]

Originally Posted by Standard

^deff looks like a nismo

For the oil, I'd suggest Valvoline SynPower 75w140 limited slip, it's a great oil with no need for additional friction modifiers. It's GL-5, that's what's preferred for our diffs in general. The Lucas 80w90 is probably a GL-4, not sure on the nismo specifically though. Nice diff btw!

Originally Posted by derass

Definetly a 2-way. The cam-ramps are a dead giveaway. Also the shape of the VLSD carrier is different, it has a large "chamfer" at the side opposite of the ring gear.

As for fluid, I ran a similar combination in my KAAZ. Castrol Hypoid-C 80W90, which is GL-5 and mineral (explicitly required by KAAZ), and a bottle of Ford Friction Modifier. At <$20 per change, it was a no-brainer to chose that over the KAAZ fluid. My car was track only, and so I changed the fluid every 2-3 events. Ran clear every time. Could probably extend to every 4-5 events. If I were street driving, I would change with every engine oil change. I swear I picked up that tip from Drift Bible or something lol

Thanks for the replies fellas. Looks like Nismo sells an 80w90 full synthetic oil for use with their diffs, one of the few brands that does take synthetic. The Lucas I have meets GL-5 specs, so I'm probably going to just run that with the motorcraft friction modifier.

Was a little surprised it's a 2-way, this thing is super quiet and well mannered.

+ rep'd both of you

[kinectx]

What are today value for these seats and the demand.

-S15 Autech/spec r Seats (pair)
-S15 Seats (pair)
-R32 GTR Seats (pair)
-180sx Seats (pair)
-Bride Brix (pair)
-bride brix(black one)

And s15 rear seats.

I have them just dont know how much they go for now and days.

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by kinectx

What are today value for these seats and the demand.

-S15 Autech/spec r Seats (pair)
-S15 Seats (pair)
-R32 GTR Seats (pair)
-180sx Seats (pair)
-Bride Brix (pair)
-bride brix(black one)

And s15 rear seats.

I have them just dont know how much they go for now and days.

I'll give you $200 shipped for the S15 seats

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

Will an S14SR IACV fit an S13SR?

Anyone??? Still dealing with this BS

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by S14kouki805

Anyone??? Still dealing with this BS

thats a negative sir!

two totally different parts/shapes! S14 SR20det uses a different intake manifold design than the 13 SR20det does.

S13 IACV:


S14 IACV: