Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[dorkidori_s13]

are your studs bent/warped at all (common problem)? where is the rotor binding up at exactly?

[No 240.. No id]

when you guys swap out the cdoo9 trans, do you use a cdoo9 clutch and flywheel or engine original clutch and flywheel?

I have a rb that I want to mate it with cd009 and not sure if I need to use rb or cd009 clutch and flywheel?

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by sig jr.'s cousin

Ok so I'm doing the 300zx rear e brake, hub, and caliper swap on my s13 and everything was going fine until my rotor decided it doesn't wanna going on. And on the drivers side both rotors fit perfectly but on the passenger side it just won't slide in how it should. Any ideas on what can be going with it?

The only thing that can stop the rotor from mounting, is the adjuster screw on the e-brake shoes.

It's in the middle at the top, are you sure you installed the drum hardware correctly?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

The only thing that can stop the rotor from mounting, is the adjuster screw on the e-brake shoes.

It's in the middle at the top, are you sure you installed the drum hardware correctly?

ooooooooooooooooooo i totally forgot about that!

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by sig jr.'s cousin

Ok so I'm doing the 300zx rear e brake, hub, and caliper swap on my s13 and everything was going fine until my rotor decided it doesn't wanna going on. And on the drivers side both rotors fit perfectly but on the passenger side it just won't slide in how it should. Any ideas on what can be going with it?

Also to add did you replace the parking brake shoes? If so, you have to reset the star wheel adjuster back all the way and adjust them after. Literally just like doing drum brakes. Also be mindfull of where your handbrake cable is adjusted at.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[sig jr.'s cousin]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

The only thing that can stop the rotor from mounting, is the adjuster screw on the e-brake shoes.

It's in the middle at the top, are you sure you installed the drum hardware correctly?

Do you mean the adjuster screw on the bottom?
I have gotten the rotor to wiggle on, but the shoe facing the rear grinds against the inside of the rotor.

IMG_0442 (1).jpg

What would cause the shoe to grind against the rotor, or how would the hardware be installed incorrectly?

[derass]

I had some trouble putting the rotor over my rear S13 Z32 swap, which ended up being the anchor bolt had turned as I torqued it down. But from your picture, I don't think that's the problem. There's a nice, even space all the way between it and the backing plate.

As anti tyler said, make sure the adjuster is as short as possible (shoes all the way in). You adjust them out once the rotor is on.

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by sig jr.'s cousin

Do you mean the adjuster screw on the bottom?
I have gotten the rotor to wiggle on, but the shoe facing the rear grinds against the inside of the rotor.

Attachment 103325

What would cause the shoe to grind against the rotor, or how would the hardware be installed incorrectly?

Did you check the cable adjustment on the handbrake lever itself

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[LoSt180]

Will a 350Z differential cover fit an S14? I realize there's only one stud, but these Nismo covers are more readily available than old used z32 finned covers and $350 for the Greddy is just dumb.

[No 240.. No id]

Originally Posted by No 240.. No id

when you guys swap out the cdoo9 trans, do you use a cdoo9 clutch and flywheel or engine original clutch and flywheel?

I have a rb that I want to mate it with cd009 and not sure if I need to use rb or cd009 clutch and flywheel?

....

[caspa]

Hi guys, had a question.

So the other day I helped my bro do some front suspension work on his s14. We replaced the rotors, calipers, pads, tie rod ends, and the LCA with (new bushing + ball joint).

In the process we were able to get everything into flush with ease on the drivers side. As we were putting all the new components in on the passenger-side, we had some difficulty trying to put the lower control arm into the front subframe. Also, we had difficulty putting the tension rod into the LCA since it was off alignment.

Any suggestions why this issue occurred? Thanks.

[derass]

That car is 20-25 years old. If it hasn't been in an accident, then it's certainly slammed some potholes in it's day.

Did you get everything back together? Did it align alright?

If so, then don't worry about it. Unless you want to tear all the front body panels off, check the chassis alignment, and put it on a frame rack to be pulled straight.

[caspa]

Originally Posted by derass

That car is 20-25 years old. If it hasn't been in an accident, then it's certainly slammed some potholes in it's day.

Did you get everything back together? Did it align alright?

If so, then don't worry about it. Unless you want to tear all the front body panels off, check the chassis alignment, and put it on a frame rack to be pulled straight.

Thanks for the pictures!!!

My friend hasn't had a chance to take it to alignment yet since he still needs to replace a few more parts.

Yah, we were able to put everything back together. It's just we had to use "A LOT" more elbow grease on the passenger side for some reason. The newer control are with new bushing we were swapping in just didn't want to go in. We thought it was because he had installed and tightened all the parts on the drivers side first.

[derass]

No problem. In case you plan on using them, those diagrams are for S13. S14 is probably different. They're just what I had on hand at the moment. I was just trying to make the point that the body was aligned to the millimeter, and 20+ years of driving can very likely knock it out of the shape it rolled out of the factory with.

[Jonathong]

Anyone know the dimensions for the s13 diff cover? I got a free welded diff but all was missing on it was the bolts that bolt down the diff cover. Any information will be greatly appreciated.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jonathong

Anyone know the dimensions for the s13 diff cover? I got a free welded diff but all was missing on it was the bolts that bolt down the diff cover. Any information will be greatly appreciated.

So do you need to know actual dimensions of the diff cover, or just what size bolts you need to buy?

[Jonathong]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

So do you need to know actual dimensions of the diff cover, or just what size bolts you need to buy?

The size of the bolts I need to buy.

[Kingtal0n]

Tire size question,

I have some rear wheels on a stock S14 chassis (no lowering), the tires on them are either
235/35/18
or
225/35/18
somewhere around that.

I need more diameter though, I'd like to go
245/50/18
or something like that. How do I know how much tire I can fit?

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Tire size question,

I have some rear wheels on a stock S14 chassis (no lowering), the tires on them are either
235/35/18
or
225/35/18
somewhere around that.

I need more diameter though, I'd like to go
245/50/18
or something like that. How do I know how much tire I can fit?

Idk about the stock s14 body, but that aspect ratio is a huge size change. Also depends on your wheel width.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Kingtal0n]

I need as much diameter as I can get. Im not sure if going to a small wheel would help or what.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

I need as much diameter as I can get. Im not sure if going to a small wheel would help or what.

It's gonna rub. Think of this as max stock can take
17x9 +15 235/45 You go larger than that, you are going to hit the inner parts as you try to turn. Max OD you can go without really trying is about 25.5"

Try this for a bit and see how much wheel you can take vs how much tire stock can handle without having to use new fenders

http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

[jaysgottaredtop]

Why do you want so much tire OD? Stay away from tall tires if you're looking to get a lot of angle.

IMO, get the shortest tire possible for the front. No real reason to get a taller sidewall, since all it does it increase size and weight. And it technically changes your final drive on the rear wheels, but you can also do that with a ring & pinion.

I'd definitely suggest trying to stay below 25" OD. Both of my S13 are under 24" OD, and it still takes some hammer "massaging" to clear in the front.

[hobbs]

Is the oil filter stud on a SR20DET replaceable or removable? I've confirmed that it is a S13 housing but the part number for the oil filter that came off is for a B/S14 SR and a B/S13 oil filter won't thread on. Only thing i can think of is if the stud was replaced for a oil filter relocation at some point.

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by hobbs

Is the oil filter stud on a SR20DET replaceable or removable? I've confirmed that it is a S13 housing but the part number for the oil filter that came off is for a B/S14 SR and a B/S13 oil filter won't thread on. Only thing i can think of is if the stud was replaced for a oil filter relocation at some point.

The center stud, yes! it is.

I've had this issue before. turned out one of the blocks I purchased had a universal "summit racing" oil filter relocation, with a dual thread center stud. it puzzled me for a bit.

(on my KA's they've always came out willingly, oddly enough)

[VTEC_lol]

I have an autogauge oil pressure gauge and the sensor is now broken, how exactly do I replace it? Can I just screw it underneath the car and plug in a new one? Or do I have to remove the whole sandwich plate?

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

It's gonna rub. Think of this as max stock can take
17x9 +15 235/45 You go larger than that, you are going to hit the inner parts as you try to turn. Max OD you can go without really trying is about 25.5"

Try this for a bit and see how much wheel you can take vs how much tire stock can handle without having to use new fenders

http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

Ok sorry, I meant, I need as much diameter as I can get IN the REAR. This is strictly for rear tires for drag racing. I need more gear to get high MPH so I need more diameter. I can't change the gear any lower easily.

My backs are 245/40/18 I think (or 245/35/18 one of those) I'd like to go 255/50/18 in the rear at least, or more

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by VTEC_lol

I have an autogauge oil pressure gauge and the sensor is now broken, how exactly do I replace it? Can I just screw it underneath the car and plug in a new one? Or do I have to remove the whole sandwich plate?

Yes you can just remove the sensor, what unit do you have? Is it electronic? Either way, they should either plug into a 2 wire harness, or it is manually feeding to the gauge face itself. You can remove both and replace.

Would suggest using a temporary plug on your sandwich plate, if you're going to remove the sensor and have time between replacement.

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by sig jr.'s cousin

Do you mean the adjuster screw on the bottom?
I have gotten the rotor to wiggle on, but the shoe facing the rear grinds against the inside of the rotor.

Attachment 103325

What would cause the shoe to grind against the rotor, or how would the hardware be installed incorrectly?

Yeah at the bottom (it's at the top on my hyundai)

That sets the base tension for the drum shoes, if it's adjusted out too far the shoes will not allow the rotor to seat.

You can also slide the shoes side to side before putting the rotor on, as to reposition them into place. Also as mentioned, if the emergency brake cables are maladjusted putting tension on the shoes, they will protrude causing the rotors to not seat.

Fresh shoes have a more dense surface, like brake pads, you'll need to retract the cable to allow for slack on the inner emergency brake drum area.

Other than that, there is absolutely nothing else causing the rotors to not seat, other than having the wrong rotors.

[VTEC_lol]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

Yes you can just remove the sensor, what unit do you have? Is it electronic? Either way, they should either plug into a 2 wire harness, or it is manually feeding to the gauge face itself. You can remove both and replace.

Would suggest using a temporary plug on your sandwich plate, if you're going to remove the sensor and have time between replacement.

It's an electrical unit I think, Smoke Series Autogauge. I was thinking about replacing the sensor when I change my oil so there won't be much spilling. Thanks for the reply!

[caspa]

What's the best way to get rid of the rust? also, the damper knob at the bottom is stuck because of the rust....

PB blaster isn't doing justice.... Should I dunk the bottom in vinegar over night for a few days?