GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[LuckyX2]

So I just recently made my swap to a gt2871r from an s15 turbo and I'm not too impressed. My old setup had the s15 turbo with poncams. Now I've gone with the go-to setup on here; gt2871r, s3's and a greddy style intake manifold.

I did 293whp/299tq with the s15 and have not yet gotten a chance to dyno with the gt2871r but my gut feeling tells me it's not doing too much better now. It just wasn't the upgrade I was expecting really. I was expecting a bit less power down low but not as much as it feels like I lost and it doesn't feel like too much was gained up top either. Simply put, it just doesn't throw me back in the seat like it did.

So before I go blaming the setup; I'd like to delve into my tune a bit and see what advice there is out here for tuning it (I have a haltech platinum 1000). I followed enthalpy's ignition timing specifications that he posted on freshalloy for the s15 setup, shifted it up until it wasn't making more power then took it down a degree and that's what got me 293whp/299tq. I'm doing the same for my 2871 now but want to get as much info as I can before I head out to the dyno and put the final tune on it there. Also, afr is at about 14 at 0psi and declining steadily to 11.5-12 at 10psi+

Furthermore, since new cams were put in I thought my cam timing could be off, but I checked that and the intake dowel is at 10 o'clock and the exhaust dowel is at 12 o'clock at tdc which I believe is correct.

So basically, if anyone has any ignition maps or cam degree settings to share with me or really any tips for squeezing out more power (especially midrange) and getting it to spool faster, that would be appreciated. I'd like to be as prepared as possible for the dyno.

tl;dr: change to gt2871r, s3's and greddy manifold was underwhelming. Tuning tips please?

[usdm180sx]

Cool that's what I needed to read. Thanks! I'd rather run these than spend money on some cams that need aftermarket valve springs and retainers.

[HIGHFIVEBETA]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

So I just recently made my swap to a gt2871r from an s15 turbo and I'm not too impressed. My old setup had the s15 turbo with poncams. Now I've gone with the go-to setup on here; gt2871r, s3's and a greddy style intake manifold.

I did 293whp/299tq with the s15 and have not yet gotten a chance to dyno with the gt2871r but my gut feeling tells me it's not doing too much better now. It just wasn't the upgrade I was expecting really. I was expecting a bit less power down low but not as much as it feels like I lost and it doesn't feel like too much was gained up top either. Simply put, it just doesn't throw me back in the seat like it did.

So before I go blaming the setup; I'd like to delve into my tune a bit and see what advice there is out here for tuning it (I have a haltech platinum 1000). I followed enthalpy's ignition timing specifications that he posted on freshalloy for the s15 setup, shifted it up until it wasn't making more power then took it down a degree and that's what got me 293whp/299tq. I'm doing the same for my 2871 now but want to get as much info as I can before I head out to the dyno and put the final tune on it there. Also, afr is at about 14 at 0psi and declining steadily to 11.5-12 at 10psi+

Furthermore, since new cams were put in I thought my cam timing could be off, but I checked that and the intake dowel is at 10 o'clock and the exhaust dowel is at 12 o'clock at tdc which I believe is correct.

So basically, if anyone has any ignition maps or cam degree settings to share with me or really any tips for squeezing out more power (especially midrange) and getting it to spool faster, that would be appreciated. I'd like to be as prepared as possible for the dyno.

tl;dr: change to gt2871r, s3's and greddy manifold was underwhelming. Tuning tips please?

Dyno tune it and turn up the boost. Doesn't sound like anything is wrong with the setup.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

Furthermore, since new cams were put in I thought my cam timing could be off, but I checked that and the intake dowel is at 10 o'clock and the exhaust dowel is at 12 o'clock at tdc which I believe is correct.

At TDC your #1 intake lobe should be at 9 and exhaust at 3.

There are proven tunes for the 2871 from multiple chip company's(JWT/Enthalpy). Dump your Haltech and rom tune a stock ecu. You are going to spend more more money for less power on a common setup with standalone.

[Luvs2slide]

^ Although true, with PROPER tuning on a standalone, especially the P1000 you can extract more power w/out sacrificing reliability.

You should let a tuner tune with the P1000 to get the best you can. Theres so much shit and variables w/ the Haltech.

Are you running the .86 or .64 housing? Which trim?

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by codyace

That's correct! Just be sur to have a bunch of stones around to clean them up, and then wehatever you can smooth polish (limited by the tool obviously) the better...I've seen some guys get the snake ends and stuff pretty deep in them to help smooth it out....there really isn't anything you can hurt by doing it, so may as well do it up while you have it all off ya know?

What do you mean stones to clean them up? Like sand blast or bead blast? Whats this snake end you are talking about?

[Black240Ct]

got my set up going this summer.

s14 sr20det
Greddy easy cams
1.1mm head gasket. stock bottom end

stock intake mani with s13 sr20det throttle body

810cc injectors and haltech sport 1000

2871 .64, 3 inch intake. WG flap welded shut
stock manifold, tial WG


we did a conservative tune hitting 15 psi, car make 330hp and 290tq
no print out tho

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by S14DB

At TDC your #1 intake lobe should be at 9 and exhaust at 3.

There are proven tunes for the 2871 from multiple chip company's(JWT/Enthalpy). Dump your Haltech and rom tune a stock ecu. You are going to spend more more money for less power on a common setup with standalone.

this is what I was going by but yeah, if the dowel pins are like that then the #1 lobes will also be as you described.

And yes, I know the haltech is not needed for this application but I wanted the experience of tuning an engine. It's mainly for my own enjoyment, not for the benefit of the car or to save money.

Originally Posted by Luvs2slide

^ Although true, with PROPER tuning on a standalone, especially the P1000 you can extract more power w/out sacrificing reliability.

You should let a tuner tune with the P1000 to get the best you can. Theres so much shit and variables w/ the Haltech.

Are you running the .86 or .64 housing? Which trim?

Yeah, I should have a tuner do it but I want the experience myself; plus I don't have to drop the $500-$800 in tuning. And it's a .64

Here's a run I just datalogged. It was wet out so there was tire slippage and thus a slower spool but still, the spool usually isn't much better. Plus it's a cold night tonight, 50-60F, which should help spool.



Notice that it doesn't reach full boost (20psi) until 4400rpm.
AFR for 0psi is 14.5 then slopes to 11.5-12 at 5psi and holds steady until 20psi. Ignition is advanced 31 degrees at 0 psi and slopes fairly linearly to 18.5 at 20psi

My pre-dyno preliminary tune seems alright to me, no outrageous afr's or timing so why is it spooling late? I'm starting to think I got a bum turbo; there was a little bit of play in it when I installed it...

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Luvs2slide

^ Although true, with PROPER tuning on a standalone, especially the P1000 you can extract more power w/out sacrificing reliability.

You should let a tuner tune with the P1000 to get the best you can. Theres so much shit and variables w/ the Haltech.

Are you running the .86 or .64 housing? Which trim?

Most people don't have access to a good tuner. Even if you do the cost will far exceed the chip. I can understand if you have an unusual/radical setup. But, why throw good money after bad tuning it for a common setup?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

So basically, if anyone has any ignition maps or cam degree settings to share with me or really any tips for squeezing out more power (especially midrange) and getting it to spool faster, that would be appreciated. I'd like to be as prepared as possible for the dyno.

Just seems as if the tune is off more than anything. I'll be the first to admit that the 2871r isn't going to spool like an s15 turbo (Btw: nice numbers on the old setup), but to say it's unbarely may be a bit premature, as 4000-8000 rpm powerband is meaty to say the least.

I'd say get the car setup and then have it tuned. Where are you going? Evans?

Originally Posted by usdm180sx

Cool that's what I needed to read. Thanks! I'd rather run these than spend money on some cams that need aftermarket valve springs and retainers.

And that's really the end advantage of the JWT cams (amongst all other things)...it's really the cheapest to run of the big boy cams.

Originally Posted by slider2828

What do you mean stones to clean them up? Like sand blast or bead blast? Whats this snake end you are talking about?

Stones as in Bur's for the end of the dremel, and the snake attachment deal is the bendable deremel piece, helps get the stone piece down into the manifold to clean them up.

Originally Posted by Black240Ct

we did a conservative tune hitting 15 psi, car make 330hp and 290tq
no print out tho

Car makes nice power for sure! Right on track

Originally Posted by Luvs2slide

^ Although true, with PROPER tuning on a standalone, especially the P1000 you can extract more power w/out sacrificing reliability.

Without a doubt, but as I always like to stress 'standalone <> standalone' (which you know but for others)....and that is, a tune isn't a tune isn't a tune.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by codyace

Just seems as if the tune is off more than anything. I'll be the first to admit that the 2871r isn't going to spool like an s15 turbo (Btw: nice numbers on the old setup), but to say it's unbarely may be a bit premature, as 4000-8000 rpm powerband is meaty to say the least.

I'd say get the car setup and then have it tuned. Where are you going? Evans?

Yea, I was expecting a bit less on the low end between the greddy manifold and the larger turbo but, I guess I just wasn't expecting this. As you can see, I'm not getting full boost until 4400rpm while you're getting it around 3800rpm right? Although you do have the extrude honed turbo and manifold while I'm on a tubular and stock turbo. I should be seeing full boost at least 200-300 rpm earlier though right? Also I'm just on shitty all-seasons right now so I'm sure part of it not feeling faster is just my wheels spinning.

And I'll be tuning it myself so I just need to find a dyno, not a reputable tuner. Plus I'm in Rochester now for school so probably not evans unless I make a trip home soon. I was wanting to go to deihl's where you do yours before I left but there just wasn't the time. Anyone know of cheap dyno time near Rochester?

Anything you can suggest I do in preparation for the dyno? Mind taking a look at the datalog I posted? At $100-$200 an hour I want to be as close as possible; I only spent two hours tuning it on the dyno with my s15 setup and would like to get it down to one this time. How about pulling some timing and adding fuel right around -5mm hg to 0psi? That will up the egt's and get it going faster. Will it be at the expense of some power there though? I guess I'll just have to wait until I get there and see; I can only do so much browsing the internet...

And thanks for the compliment by the way. It was a big learning experience building this motor up from the pieces I bought it in and then learning all about tuning it on the standalone; so it's nice to hear someone who knows what he's doing compliment my work. It was definitely nice getting that 299tq out of a tiny s15 turbo but man I hated how it just fell flat on its face at any high rpm so I went the 2871 route. I'm sure I'll be happier with it once it's dialed in.

[jakerps13]

Other than the turbo being bigger and slower max boost target than the s15 you may want to check a few things.

-Exhaust restriction
-Exhaust leak before turbo
-Proper turbo oil feed
-Leaking BOV
-Leaking charge pipes/couplers
-Wastegate not fully seated or holding tight

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by jakerps13

Other than the turbo being bigger and slower max boost target than the s15 you may want to check a few things.

-Exhaust restriction
-Exhaust leak before turbo
-Proper turbo oil feed
-Leaking BOV
-Leaking charge pipes/couplers
-Wastegate not fully seated or holding tight

Thanks, I'm assuming there aren't any leaks in the piping/bov because once it gets up to boost it's very steady. But even so, I went over every coupling, vacuum line etc when I put it all back together (was torn down to the block). How tight do I make the soft/hard setting on the bov though? And how much of a difference will an oil restrictor make? There's one in the mail for me right now.

[slider2828]

Thanks Cody.... I am going to look for the attachment....

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

Yea, I was expecting a bit less on the low end between the greddy manifold and the larger turbo but, I guess I just wasn't expecting this. As you can see, I'm not getting full boost until 4400rpm while you're getting it around 3800rpm right? Although you do have the extrude honed turbo and manifold while I'm on a tubular and stock turbo. I should be seeing full boost at least 200-300 rpm earlier though right? Also I'm just on shitty all-seasons right now so I'm sure part of it not feeling faster is just my wheels spinning.

Tubular will give you more on the top end but less down low. Have to fill up those bigger pipes. EH manifold doesn't loose a ton of material it just smooths out the passages.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Tubular will give you more on the top end but less down low. Have to fill up those bigger pipes. EH manifold doesn't loose a ton of material it just smooths out the passages.

Yeah, that's what I meant. I was saying that the combination of extrude honing and having a stock manifold gives him an advantage in spool over my stock turbo and tubular.

I'm expecting full boost around 3800-4000 while cody is getting it at 3500-3800 if I remember correctly.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

Yeah, that's what I meant. I was saying that the combination of extrude honing and having a stock manifold gives him an advantage in spool over my stock turbo and tubular.

I'm expecting full boost around 3800-4000 while cody is getting it at 3500-3800 if I remember correctly.

On street/with load it's a little later now, 3800/3900ish with the 4.60 final drive, vs the 3600/3700ish with the 4.08s (which was to be expected, but not a big deal at all with mechanical advantage of the 4.6 final drive)

It seems like you're going to lookinto the mid range timing more than anything, and or to ensure your cas timing/distributor timing is set right. To spool 4500 rpm is certainly a function of tune vs parts.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by codyace

On street/with load it's a little later now, 3800/3900ish with the 4.60 final drive, vs the 3600/3700ish with the 4.08s (which was to be expected, but not a big deal at all with mechanical advantage of the 4.6 final drive)

It seems like you're going to lookinto the mid range timing more than anything, and or to ensure your cas timing/distributor timing is set right. To spool 4500 rpm is certainly a function of tune vs parts.

I tried pulling timing and enriching it a bit under low boost; did a pull and blew a hose clamp right off. I guess that means it helped?
That was scary hearing the air rush out...

So I'm buying a new clamp tomorrow and doing some more street tuning before I hit the dyno

[BiG MiKE86]

Ive been thinking of switching from my Tomei Poncams (256/256) and going back to JWT S3's but im seeing they now have a S3 and S3 HL cam - Anyone use the high lift cams? Should I just stick to the tried and true s3's?

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

Ive been thinking of switching from my Tomei Poncams (256/256) and going back to JWT S3's but im seeing they now have a S3 and S3 HL cam - Anyone use the high lift cams? Should I just stick to the tried and true s3's?

I would have gone with the high lift ones if I didn't find a good deal on some used regular S3's. More lift ought to be better, right?

I have an upgraded valvetrain however; I don't know how stock would hold up to the extra lift.

[2fast4y0u]

Originally Posted by 180sxqc

BTW I am going on the dyno for a tune in two weeks (hopefully, as soon as my tuner is available)

I am planning on running 10-12 psi until I get some parts installed (metal g, arp studs, etc)

14+ psi next year (I will be getting a ported stock manifold with an external gate before next summer)

here is a video of my tuner with his sr20 powered 240sx 9 second 240sx 9.99 149.5mph - YouTube

I will be posting a dyno grap when I have it

hoping for 270whp on a mustang dyno

is that in the 1/8th?

[BlackZenkiS14]

I just sent my ECU off to JWT for a fresh tune with Nismo 740's, Z32 MAF, and 93 Octane. Cant wait to get it on my setup, and get it back in some power!

If I am on stock Head/cams/etc... How high can I safely rev it? I know JWT raises the rev limiter, but I was wondering I should still try to keep it under 7.5k?

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

is that in the 1/8th?

149mph...gotta be 1/4.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

I just sent my ECU off to JWT for a fresh tune with Nismo 740's, Z32 MAF, and 93 Octane. Cant wait to get it on my setup, and get it back in some power!

If I am on stock Head/cams/etc... How high can I safely rev it? I know JWT raises the rev limiter, but I was wondering I should still try to keep it under 7.5k?

stock head? not going to get much up there in the rpm.

[2fast4y0u]

the run was over quick but man it looked like a short track. maybe its just my lack of racing this year

[codyace]

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

Ive been thinking of switching from my Tomei Poncams (256/256) and going back to JWT S3's but im seeing they now have a S3 and S3 HL cam - Anyone use the high lift cams? Should I just stick to the tried and true s3's?

I'm looking to switch to the HL cams here shortly Higher lift should certainly help in all aspects of the 2871r powerband.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

If I am on stock Head/cams/etc... How high can I safely rev it? I know JWT raises the rev limiter, but I was wondering I should still try to keep it under 7.5k?

JWT will set the limiter at 7850 for you, that is perfectly safe on everything. However like stated above, if you're running stock cams it may flatten out a little sooner.

[WhiteS12+1]

Cody, what do you recommend is safe and worthwhile to rev to, with a built head and S3 cams? Thanks in advance!

[codyace]

Originally Posted by WhiteS12+1

Cody, what do you recommend is safe and worthwhile to rev to, with a built head and S3 cams? Thanks in advance!

What springs/setup are you running?

As before, S3's and OEM are safe to 7850 without any issue (well any JWT cam is for that matter, this side of the C series)

[Silverbullet]

Originally Posted by WhiteS12+1

Cody, what do you recommend is safe and worthwhile to rev to, with a built head and S3 cams? Thanks in advance!

why not ask JWT? They are familar with the parameters its designed under, AND they are doing your tune.

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by codyace

JWT will set the limiter at 7850 for you, that is perfectly safe on everything. However like stated above, if you're running stock cams it may flatten out a little sooner.

Thank you sir!

What's your opinion on Rocker Arm Stoppers? Need 'em? Hoax?

[TFD]

My gt2871r .86 is dead...... blowing blue smoke on boost bye bye seal.

Since laggy at 4300ish rpm full boost I'm going the Precision route. Same or a tad better spoolup and more topend for less cash.

To bad I didnt dyno my setup for reference over here.