GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by gotta240

Ok, I've read nearly every page of this thread, literraly spent hours reading. I just have one more question....

If you were buying a brand new Gt2871R (.64 model ONLY), which version would you go with? The 472560-15 which is the direct replacement for the s15, or would you go with one with a 4inch, non-bolt inlet? Or are there any other options you would or wouldn't do?

I had one seller tell me the version with the bolt style housing model will make LESS power. Is it enough to matter? Which would you buy if buying new?

It doesn't really matter which model number, (472560-15, GRT-TBO-022 or the 743347 variants) if your getting the custom TURBO, with options. If you're ordering a standard with no options turbo? Get the 743347-4 with chra 443179-32 That's the 3inch .64ar 56trim and internal gate model.IIRC

Most vendors are allowed to modify the turbos they sell by Garrett, FRS is one of them. I have the 472560-15, 56trim upgrade with t04e 2.75 compressor housing. The only sure way to tell is by measuring the wheels. My compressor wheel is 53/71, my turbine wheel is 53.9mm or 54mm. It was close enough so I kept it. I actually sent it back the first time!

[Silverbullet]

Has anyone ran a .64 GT2871R on SR without a waste gate?

I am curious because I am in the works of putting togther a new chassis and motor. It will be on stock SR injectors but the 2871R will be on since it is easy to install while everything is being put in.

I just need to make sure it wont over do the stock injectors and MAF.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Silverbullet

Has anyone ran a .64 GT2871R on SR without a waste gate?

I am curious because I am in the works of putting togther a new chassis and motor. It will be on stock SR injectors but the 2871R will be on since it is easy to install while everything is being put in.

I just need to make sure it wont over do the stock injectors and MAF.

That's going to be tough to regulate for sure. I'd almost wire the flap open. I'm sure it'll still make 7 or so PSI with the flap open

[Silverbullet]

hmm sounds like it could be right on that limit of the 370cc's.

I dont remember if it was here or NRR, but I recall someone mentioning running one without a WG once.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Silverbullet

hmm sounds like it could be right on that limit of the 370cc's.

I dont remember if it was here or NRR, but I recall someone mentioning running one without a WG once.

You could leave the WG unhooked too, it would essentially do the same thing (blow the flapper open and vent)

I personally would be pay EXTREME attention to the boost gauge. Truthfully speaking you're going to be at the edge of the stock pump/injectors/maf all in the same range...I'd hate to see you chuck a rod out the side of the block just because you couldn't save up for the fueling initially.

[Silverbullet]

the pump is a walbro from my old setup. No issues there.

I'm just worried about the 370 injectors really. I'm surprised there is enough resistance in the turbine housing to allow 7psi to be pushed by the turbo w/out a waste gate.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Silverbullet

the pump is a walbro from my old setup. No issues there.

I'm just worried about the 370 injectors really. I'm surprised there is enough resistance in the turbine housing to allow 7psi to be pushed by the turbo w/out a waste gate.

Regardless of the pump being ok, your injectors/maf/tune are not. Again you're really REALLY pushing your luck if you can't maintain control of it. I'd say 9-10 psi Maximum really.

[gotta240]

Originally Posted by cotbu

It doesn't really matter which model number, (472560-15, GRT-TBO-022 or the 743347 variants) if your getting the custom TURBO, with options. If you're ordering a standard with no options turbo? Get the 743347-4 with chra 443179-32 That's the 3inch .64ar 56trim and internal gate model.IIRC

Most vendors are allowed to modify the turbos they sell by Garrett, FRS is one of them. I have the 472560-15, 56trim upgrade with t04e 2.75 compressor housing. The only sure way to tell is by measuring the wheels. My compressor wheel is 53/71, my turbine wheel is 53.9mm or 54mm. It was close enough so I kept it. I actually sent it back the first time!

1. I apologize, but just want to clear this conversation up so I'm SUPER SUPER CLEAR before I drop over 1200 bucks. So....if you could buy ANY 2871r turbo, you'd get the basic 2871r with the 3inch inlet(which automatically makes it a 56trim?) and the .64ar?

2. How much of a disadvantage would I be at if I just went with the basic s15 bolt on model with bolt on intake?

3. You said you got the to4e 2.75 compressor housing....is that something I should do?
Again, I apologize for the newb questions. I HAVE read through all these pages, and learned a LOT. I do however have TONS more to learn and will do so while running a 2871r hopefully. Just want to start with the best option so I dont have to do it twice.

[R3cK]

got some runs on our european board, got the sheets uploaded there, too.
if i should translate something,or want to see the dynopic, just ask.

"S14a GT2871R AR64 +264 - 412 PS 540NMS14a SR20DET - dyno 1,2 bar

Mehr Ladedruck war nicht moglich da die Kupllung uber 550NM nicht mehr mitspielen wolte

Motor Geschmiedet
JE KOlben + Eagle
Cosworth 1,5mm Zylinderkopfdichtung
ACL Race Pleuen
ARP Schrauben Kopf + Welle
264 Brian Crower Nocken
Rocker Arm Stopper - Tomei
Garrett GT2871R AR64 - XS Power Manifold
Greddy style LLK
3 Zoll Auspuffanlage
90 mm Infinity Q45 throtle body
Ansaugbrucke Greddy
nistune
"

"S14A mit GT2871R .86AR @ 1,2bar [390PS/526NM]Chassis: S14A

Motor: SR20DET
Modifikationen:

- Motor komplett original!
- Garrett GT2871R 0.86AR @ 1,2bar
- JECS 750cc
- Walbro
- Greddy Ladeluftkühler
- XS-Power Krümmer
- 3 Zoll ab Turbo
- Z32 LMM
- leichte Schwungmasse
- ACT heavy duty Kupplung
- K&N Luftfilter
- Nistune abgestimmt von Jonne ( www.sky-engineering.com )

Abgestimmt auf 1,4bar (im Sommer) - war aber nicht möglich, da es bei den Temperaturen zu Zündaussetzern kam. Neue Zündspulen sind geordert.

Datum: 19.12.2011
Temperatur in °: 9°

Max. Leistung am Motor in PS bei Drehzahl: 390PS bei 5698 U/min
Max. Drehmoment am Motor in Nm bei Drehzahl: 526 Nm bei 4676 U/min
Effektive Leistung an der Hinterachse in PS: 358 PS"

"PS13 SR20 gt2871 .86 @1.2bar 399,2psMotor is Stock
Hks264 nocken
Rocker Arm stopper
Z32 lmm
Hks krümmer
3zoll aga ab Turbo
555cc injectors.
Llk
Nistune mapped by jonne
450nm 399,2ps
337ps am Rad"

porn aka EFR:

"S14a EFR 6258 @1,4Bar 443,5PS 556,5NmStatistische Angaben:

Chassis: S14a
Motor: SR20
Modifikationen:

serien kopf,
serien nocken,
serien block, mit anderen Pleueln

BorgWarner EFR 6258
Amuse LLK
TiAL 60mm BOV
Fächerkrümmer

das wars

dyno 1,4Bar
street 1,6Bar

Datum:12-04-2011
Temperatur in ° 21

Max. Leistung am Motor in PS bei Drehzahl: 446,5 @ 5769rpm
Max. Drehmoment am Motor in Nm bei Drehzahl: 556,5Nm @ 5467rpm
Effektive Leistung an der Hinterachse in PS: 39,5PS Verlustleistung"

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by gotta240

1. I apologize, but just want to clear this conversation up so I'm SUPER SUPER CLEAR before I drop over 1200 bucks. So....if you could buy ANY 2871r turbo, you'd get the basic 2871r with the 3inch inlet(which automatically makes it a 56trim?) and the .64ar?

2. How much of a disadvantage would I be at if I just went with the basic s15 bolt on model with bolt on intake?

3. You said you got the to4e 2.75 compressor housing....is that something I should do?
Again, I apologize for the newb questions. I HAVE read through all these pages, and learned a LOT. I do however have TONS more to learn and will do so while running a 2871r hopefully. Just want to start with the best option so I dont have to do it twice.

1. If I wanted the better gt2871r, that spooled fast, and Cody Ace has? yes it would be the 56trim with the 3inch intake and the .64ar exhaust housing.

2. When I was looking, It seemed they only offered the s15 housing option in the 52trim and I didnt want that option. I think the s15 housing would have been a hindrance on what I was trying to build. IDK for sure!

3. Why I chose the T04E 2.75 comp housing. I wanted a larger compressor housing with a smaller ar. I don't know a whole lot about Compressor Housing Aspect Ratio's, but I do know smaller AR on larger compressors flow better up top (generally), and fitted with the .64 exhaust housing I took that gamble. I also didn't want to try and fit my 3inch intake to a 4inch inlet. I think the 4inch option would have worked better on a top mount, map based system. Again it was completely overlooked as it didn't fit my plans! I tried to make the turbo my own and leave me with room to grow. I think I hit the nail on the head, It spooled fast and made my target hp and tq all with in the boost range I chose (14psi). I don't think the off the self gt2871r would do it for me. I seriously think I nailed. It could also be the tuning, but it is what it is. I'm very pleased with the performance!

We'll now let me tell you about my problems...the T04E 2.75 housing didn't come with an actuator no surprise, but the .64 housing has a flapper. so I rigged a bracket on the compressor housing for my HKS actuator. I had problems controlling boost, spiked to 17psi.
I knew I needed injectors but I wanted to get the boost under control first. After many adjustments of actuator and EBC, I finally achieved that magical 14psi I was after. I wanted to utilize the stock manifold and have it, done like Cody ace's but my team wasn't buying into Cody's setup, maybe it was my delivery. So I bought the full race bottom mount t2 v44 setup. The increase in power and torque had my stoked and it should have considering the price. I still believe it is mainly do to the external gate, keeping boost consistent. I don't have that 14psi creep up to 20psi by red line, that I see a lot of. It has on earlier occasions spiked to 21-22 then settled to 20psi but that's why we tune.

I wouldn't feel comfortable telling you to buy any option without actually seeing what you current setup puts down and knowing what you're trying to achieve with said setup. I wanted mid range power and torque, I also wanted fast spooling and more top end power. I think the gt2871r 56trim .64 does all that compared to the s15 turbo aka gt2560r. I also needed a turbo that flows approx 44lb/min, but at the same time not being to big for a 4cyl.

[gotta240]

cotbu- Thank you very much for the detailed reply. Your time and advice is greatly appriciated!!!! What you said actually made sense too. Thanks!

If anyone has other opinions/ideas, I'm all ears.

[twinspool]

yeah save up more and get some 740cc injectors, z32 maf, and power fc or something.

[usdm180sx]

Originally Posted by inopsey

not sure about that. the mates down under who actually run them say they are superior for response and power output vs a gt2871
Garrett GT2871R Vs Tomei M7960 - Hardtuned.net

Here's more info from Option: Turns out the HKS GT-RS is different from the Garrett GT2871R and both Tomei's AND the GT-RS make more power than the GT2871R (Looks like all they did was drop in the turbos since they all have the same inlet/outlet):

[slider2828]

HKS GT-RS is a GT3037S.... GTSS is closer to a 2871R, more like a 2860.... Saw that article in Option2 while in Tokyo...

[Freddy]

Originally Posted by R3cK

got some runs on our european board, got the sheets uploaded there, too.
if i should translate something,or want to see the dynopic, just ask.
porn aka EFR:

"S14a EFR 6258 @1,4Bar 443,5PS 556,5NmStatistische Angaben:

Chassis: S14a
Motor: SR20
Modifikationen:

serien kopf,
serien nocken,
serien block, mit anderen Pleueln

BorgWarner EFR 6258
Amuse LLK
TiAL 60mm BOV
Fächerkrümmer

das wars

dyno 1,4Bar
street 1,6Bar

Datum:12-04-2011
Temperatur in ° 21

Max. Leistung am Motor in PS bei Drehzahl: 446,5 @ 5769rpm
Max. Drehmoment am Motor in Nm bei Drehzahl: 556,5Nm @ 5467rpm
Effektive Leistung an der Hinterachse in PS: 39,5PS Verlustleistung"

Can you translate, get the dyno sheet and picture of setup for this one please?

[gotta240]

Alright, looking at some used 2871r turbos.

Looking at this one but supposedly it only has the .50 intake. Also, whats up with that rectangular block that protrudes from the intake turbine housing? I've never seen a 2871r look like that. Even did a google picture search.

Also, another turbo I'm looking at has the vin plate etched in by hand. Most ive seen have the little serial plate stamped, but this looks like it was written by hand. Anyone seen that before?

[TFD]

@Freddy:

got some runs on our european board, got the sheets uploaded there, too.
if i should translate something,or want to see the dynopic, just ask.
porn aka EFR:

"S14a EFR 6258 @1,4Bar 443,5PS 556,5NmStatistische Angaben:

Chassis: S14a
Motor: SR20
Modifikationen:

serien kopf,
serien nocken,
serien block, mit anderen Pleueln

BorgWarner EFR 6258
Amuse LLK
TiAL 60mm BOV
Fächerkrümmer

das wars

dyno 1,4Bar
street 1,6Bar

Datum:12-04-2011
Temperatur in ° 21

Max. Leistung am Motor in PS bei Drehzahl: 446,5 @ 5769rpm
Max. Drehmoment am Motor in Nm bei Drehzahl: 556,5Nm @ 5467rpm
Effektive Leistung an der Hinterachse in PS: 39,5PS Verlustleistung"

Basicly a stock S14 SR20DET engine with a BorgWarner EFR 6258 turbo @ 1.4 bar (21 psi) and got 395 whp @ 5769 rpm. Torque is not accurate but around 340 wTq.

[Luvs2slide]

Fixing to purchase a GT28R style housing (bolt on inlet/outlet) to replace my 56 trim open inlet compressor. The next car this turbine is going on will be very prone to wrecks, and having a bunch of stock piping will do me wonders.

Anyone interested buying mine to upgrade? My compressor housing is for the 56 trim 71mm

[EsChassisLove]

Does anyone elses wastegate "whine" or "whistle" a little bit?

When I have the vac line hooked up, it will whine, but it isn't leaking air from anywhere. Take off the Vac line and it stops.

Whats the deal? haha

[OLDSCHOOLRICE]

If there’s a whistle or a whine from the actuator with the line connected the only logical thought would be that there’s a small leak in the actuator.

Does it happen at idle?

If you pinch the line instead of pulling it off does the noise go away?

[EsChassisLove]

There are 2 more Air line connections, do i have to plug those up? Air wasn't coming from them but that could be it.

[gotta240]

Alright guys, going to check this turbo out in person tomorrow. Said to have about 2 thousand miles on it. Its supposed to be the .64 version. Can you guys give me any pointers of what to look for/avoid? How much in/out and up/down shaft play is "OK"? Thanks for your time as always

[/QUOTE]

[homeslicej2]

Originally Posted by usdm180sx

Here's more info from Option: Turns out the HKS GT-RS is different from the Garrett GT2871R and both Tomei's AND the GT-RS make more power than the GT2871R (Looks like all they did was drop in the turbos since they all have the same inlet/outlet):

Nice find. I've contemplated the ARMS 7960, since the entire kit is the cost of a new GT2871r and it's rebuildable journal bearing. I really want to get a new GTX 2860r or 2863r when Garrett starts selling them, but they will be $1200+ and still have to get an exhaust housing. We'll see as I won't buy a new turbo till next fall.

[cotbu]

Originally Posted by gotta240

Anyone seen a 2871r look like this??????

Looks like the t04e 2.75 .50ar housing rigged with an internal wastegate actuator and modified outlet. It could be a gt2871r or a gt3071r etc. you'd have to read the chra and measure the wheels to be sure.

mine

[gotta240]

Thanks again man! You really know your s..t!!!!!!

[slider2828]

All GT2871R's are CHRA exchangeable.... Basically you blow it and you can just take it apart and core it. Its like 600 bux for a completely new turbo... Rebuilding is not that much cheaper.... unless you do it yourself and you know how to rebalance the turbo and stuff.... It really comes down to the same price, but a NEW CHRA is better in my opinion

[R3cK]

here is the EFR translated with some pics. check the project link below.
as far as i can see the garret hits the 400 with cams.
the efr does this with stock engine.
the project guy also writes the efr got lot more power but the stock engine started to knock..

"S14a EFR 6258 @1,4Bar 443,5PS 556,5Nm

data:

Chassis: S14a
Motor: SR20
mods:

stock head
stock cams
stock block with new connecting rods

BorgWarner EFR 6258
Amuse intercooler
TiAL 60mm BOV
header

thats it

dyno 1,4Bar
street 1,6Bar

date :12-04-2011
air temp 21 °C

max power on engine @rpm 446,5 PS @ 5769rpm
max torque @ rpm 556,5Nm @ 5467rpm
lost power on rear wheels : -39,5PS"

owner writes he got 1.5bar @3000rpm in the street
http://www.abload.de/img/62wn74.jpg
http://www.abload.de/img/641jnm3.jpg
http://www.abload.de/img/6516uo4.jpg

none of the piping is P&P - many fitment work to do.. (check the project)
Heres the project, but you gotta register, MANY pictures about all the stuff
http://www.sxce.org/wbb/index.php?pa...threadID=61678

[gotta240]

Alright guys, I'm going to look at this turbo tomorrow, and will buy if all goes well. Its supposed to be the .64 version, and is said to be 8 months old with 2k. miles. Is there anything to look for/check? How much in/out and up/down shaft play is "OK" or normal for a newer turbo? Anything else to check on? Thanks!!!!

[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

[di-devol]

Just picked up my set-up for the coming season.
It is a GT2871r 56 trim .64, stock ex mani with tial gate welded to it.

I'll be running:
CP 86.5mm 9:1
eagle rods
arp mains and head studs
740's
freddy intake
JWT s3's
JWT ecu

My question, is 20ish psi ok to seriously beat on it drifting on 92 pump?

[slider2828]

20 PSI for sure the turbo can handle no problems... but 92 pump without any other fuel modifiers, its going to run hot.... if you doing race track stuff and laps..... I think pretty prone to knocking... would go 100 for safety.... but I was on a .86 AR....

Do you think the weld is going to crack? Woops drifting or grip?