1UZFE into S-Chassis

[Drifting Kalamari]

Turtle M3th, a PM is coming your way!

[MiamiZ33]

My UZ is running now. This question is for people who have wired the UZ to the stock 240sx tach: my tach seems pretty erratic, dafuq? FYI, I have the tach signal wire coming off the igniter going straight to the tach.

[Drifting Kalamari]

I need to know this too. I am having my basic wiring done now and will be finished sometime in January, but was told the tach may read double what it really is... There has to be an easy solution for this without having to get a seperate tach to install...

[Fries]

What year 1uz are you guys using? From my understanding it puts out a 4cyl tach signal so it should be fine. I haven't wired my engine up yet so I can't comment on my setup yet.

[Drifting Kalamari]

I have a '91 UZ

[MiamiZ33]

It would be great if Jifter could comment... It's hard to tell from his vid, but it looks like hes running a stock gauge cluster. Fries, you're right, everything I've read states it outputs a 4-cylinder signal, so in theory the Nissan cluster should work, but if it outputs a 5V square-wave instead of a 12V square-wave, then the Nissan cluster will freak out (this is my suspicion).

I borrowed a 5" Autometer tach from a buddy to see if that shows a clean tach signal. If this is the case, then we may need an MSD signal converter, at which point I'd probably ditch the stock cluster anyway since I'm only using Tach and Fuel level from it. I have an Autometer sport-comp Oil Pressure Gauge and Water Temp Gauge coming.

[badass8]

Anyone doing the swap with the z33 transmission? Debating which one to do. I like how the z33 transmission handles a ton more power, but how much modding will need to be done is my worry.

[turtle m3th]

There isn't much work required to make it fit in the car (cut the shifter hole, whack the hell out of some key spots of the trans tunnel.) The transmission itself requires more work imho. You've gotta mill the bell housing down 5/8" then clearance the damn adapter plate because the clutch slave won't allow the bell housing to mount flush. Then you've gotta shorten the shifter assembly. It's all a bit of a process, but well worth it. I've done it a few times for customers.

[badass8]

Originally Posted by turtle m3th

There isn't much work required to make it fit in the car (cut the shifter hole, whack the hell out of some key spots of the trans tunnel.) The transmission itself requires more work imho. You've gotta mill the bell housing down 5/8" then clearance the damn adapter plate because the clutch slave won't allow the bell housing to mount flush. Then you've gotta shorten the shifter assembly. It's all a bit of a process, but well worth it. I've done it a few times for customers.

Thank you. But that is a lot of work just to make shit fit haha. Might being going with the KA transmission then since I don't have tools at hand to do that. I really need to take welding/fabricating classes to customize my own stuff..

[MiamiZ33]

I have a Z33 transmission in mine. Turtle is correct on all of his statements. I did not have to modify my trans tunnel, but the transmission does come mighty close to hitting.

The biggest problem for me is the fact that the transmission is now the lowest part of the frame by about 3/4". When I cage my car, I will be cutting out the bulk of the trans tunnel and making a new one so I can raise the tranny such that it is (at least) at the same height as the frame rails.... this is down the road though.

Check this out: http://zilvia.net/f/drivetrain/37070...uantities.html... I was unsure if the power of the 1UZ would be enough for me, so if I decided to add boost or upgrade later down the road, I wouldn't have to redo my mounts and driveshaft.

[badass8]

Thank you for the link, I'll have to check it out and look at my funds. I still have a couple months until I even start purchasing parts for the swap. But That's exactly my dilemma just worried about the power gains over time. That link clearly showed how much stronger the z33 transmissions are compared to the SR trans.

I'll have to search around and get in contact with people in my area to see how much they charge for these modifications to the z33 transmission.

[turtle m3th]

MiamiZ33, just remember that when you raise your trans you must also do so to your motor to maintain something close to a -3 degree slope so everything lines up properly to the diff. A good option for this would be to do subframe risers if you haven't already done so.

And for anyone interested in doing a z33 transmission in their s-chassis, NO AFTERMARKET TRANS ADAPTER IS NEEDED! you simply need to make an extension bracket with 4 holes in it.
Like so...

[MiamiZ33]

Originally Posted by turtle m3th

MiamiZ33, just remember that when you raise your trans you must also do so to your motor to maintain something close to a -3 degree slope so everything lines up properly to the diff. A good option for this would be to do subframe risers if you haven't already done so.

Is 3* a legit value? I'll measure mine this weekend out of curiosity.

Good suggestion turtle, I have a few things to keep in mind if I do this, including my headers. I suspect I will need to modify the collectors again since they are tucked pretty close up to the floor already, I doubt I'll have room if I move the trans up

...maybe it's not worth it, we'll see. Maybe I'll love the way it's set up now and won't want to change it.

[turtle m3th]

My swaps end up around 3 degrees and have worked out just fine, so it's just a # I throw out from experience. But yeah, that is going to be a shitload of work if you do decide to go that route. Definitely something that is hard to approach as an after thought.

[Fries]

Z33 put up some pics of your swap bromeo.

[MiamiZ33]

Guys, I could really use some help:

My shitbox still isn't running right. After trying to diagnose a bunch of stuff, the car is still running really rough and has no power. It breaks up under load, and doesn't rev cleanly. I think it's down a few cylinders... all 8 are getting spark (I checked each one), but it smells super rich. If I spray starter fluid in the MAF while it's running, the revs pick up and smooth out and the engine sounds completely different.

One theory is my O2 sensors are 2" from the header outlet (still running open headers for now), and the reversion from the exhaust is pulling in ambient air which is freaking out the sensors. I started making my Y-pipe to test this theory, but I didn't get it done Sunday:

In hindsight, I could have started the car at this point and it would have told me what I needed to know, but I didn't. I want to make sure the exhaust isn't the issue before I start diagnosing sensors and wiring for a problem that may not exist.

So from what I can tell:
-all 8 cylinders are getting spark,
-all 8 plug wires are good and hooked up correctly
-TPS works (unplugged it and car died)

I hooked up the IACV, which was previously not plumbed. The EGR system is deleted entirely.

Any ideas?

[Fries]

IACV wasn't set up prior?
I noticed that I had tons of vacuum lines broken all over, have you double checked those?

[MiamiZ33]

Ive tried it with the IACV connected, and disconnected. I checked the vacuum at idle, and it's getting like 18 inHg.

[Fries]

Do you have the check engine light wiredup?

[MiamiZ33]

Originally Posted by Fries

Do you have the check engine light wiredup?

Negatory... maybe I should spend the time to do so.

[Fries]

Should only take 10 seconds to do man, might be worth it.

[MiamiZ33]

Does anybody have a clean wiring writeup for the 1UZ swap? I've read through the others on Zilvia, and they are confusing and sometimes just plain wrong.

There's two connectors in my harness that are currently unaccounted for:



^This single spade connector, near the water crossover in the front of the engine.

And a 4-wire ring terminal (with I believe two whites, and a white/stripe wire, with one other I can't remember the color of) at the back of the engine on the passenger side. I currently have this grounded to a bolt on the back of the passenger cylinder head.

[Fries]

Is this the spade connector you were talking about?
It just goes on the back of the engine like you had it.

The other unidentified plug is the water temp sensor that connects to the water bridge, it's a needed plug. Without it the motor thinks it's always cold and will reduce power, run rich.

I think you found your problem brother.

[MiamiZ33]

Yeah, thats the big mofo. I have it on the cylinder head, does it need to go on the block?

I thought there were two other water temp sensors that are connected with 2-pin connectors, just next to the thing you're talking about. I was just reading that it is a cold start sensor. Supposedly, the previous owner had an AEM temp sensor in this location, so I assume this single-pin dealy was not connected.

edit: I am now certain that is a cold start sensor, and there is a weird additional fitting on the fuel rail that goes to the underside of my intake manifold (which is apparently a 1000cc injector). I wonder if having this unhooked is causing the cold start injector to just fire constantly. That would explain the richness. Not sure if it explains why it doesn't like to run under load.

[Fries]

Hey smart dudes. I need to know which plug near the fuse box deals with the alternator and where our starter signal wire comes from. I dont have the factory manual transmission harness so I'm buying replacement plugs from wiring specialties in order to wire it upmyself (Since I'm only needing, starter/alt and speed sensor plugs anyway)

A graphical representation would be very very helpful. Thanks dudes.

[MiamiZ33]

Decided to remove my intake manifold to check for any weirdness and found this when I removed the TB:



Removed the original gasket, chunked it up with some RTV and now the car idles perfectly. BUT, it still does not drive under any load, and even when I flat rev it at WOT it breaks up.

Fries, I also wired the CEL and it is not throwing any codes.

Ideas?

[shoguner]

Originally Posted by MiamiZ33

Decided to remove my intake manifold to check for any weirdness and found this when I removed the TB:



Removed the original gasket, chunked it up with some RTV and now the car idles perfectly. BUT, it still does not drive under any load, and even when I flat rev it at WOT it breaks up.

Fries, I also wired the CEL and it is not throwing any codes.

Ideas?

Had a friend with almost the same symptom he had some water in his spark plug holes.
Check that.

I am also having an issue with my new engine. I have no voltage to my crank or cam sensors. Anyone had this issue? All wires are hooked up correctly (that i can see.) Injectors/ignitors have power, but the 5v to the crank/cam sensors are not there.

[Fries]

Something wiring wise has gotta be wrong. They changed some little things between older/new motors.

Ordered a 1jz round alternator plug to see if it works on the older model 1uz alternators since mine did not come with the actual plug.

[Vongsayarath]

Just read through all pages. Decided im jumping in. Will update soon. Good work guys.

[MiamiZ33]

Originally Posted by Fries

Something wiring wise has gotta be wrong. They changed some little things between older/new motors.

Ordered a 1jz round alternator plug to see if it works on the older model 1uz alternators since mine did not come with the actual plug.

I got mine on ebay for $15... not as good as OEM (not waterproof), but still works for now -- because race car.

Update on my car is that its running decently, it still does not like anything past 40% throttle, it breaks up and misfires. I have new plug wires coming in today which is one of the few things I haven't replaced/swapped.

A buddy is going to lend me a known working ECU and a known working MAF as well this weekend.

PS - I had a small crack in my windshield which has now propagated into two 10" cracks because my engine is so loud and obnoxious. I love it.