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Old 08-25-2010, 09:46 PM   #211
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First released product, we are done with testing. Works flawlessly. For S13 and S14

Next up is our Fuel lines, Tuck radiator with hoses, and AN Power Steering kit.

Wow Chase Bays has gone to absolute shit.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:57 PM   #212
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Biggest problem is safety. Single piston, why? 1 small leak or problem in the brake circuit will result in no brakes. And there is not even a switch to indicate when fluid is low.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:08 PM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
If you're trying to convince people that power-assisted brakes feel the same as manual brakes, you either have a super long stroke, not a big enough master to brake like stock, or both. Try unplugging (and capping off) the 3/8" vacuum line that goes to the booster and driving around, it certainly varies the braking feel at all times, not just at the beginning of engagement.

I applaud your offer to let people try them, but don't see that actually happening. You mention road race cars, and say you've sold 200 of them, but the only pic you have is of a car with no motor?
You don't troll honda boards, I will admit a lot of these things have sold and quite a few people had to make quite a few adjustments to driving with them. And a few people I believe have track tested them on honda's.

But honda's n/a or turbo don't produce the heat a 240sx does near it's brake master cylinder because of the engine orientation. So the review of how this works on a honda is irrelevant.

I want to know how having a 300 degree oven next to those lines work granted this isn't a mod someone who tracks their car would do for performance. Some people would consider it if it gave them more room for turbo/manifold clearance.

Quote:
I agree, hardlines into the wiper tray would be preferable.
He is trying to make a fire and forget online store purchase, regardless of what anyone thinks looks cleaner, nobody is going to buy a/n fittings and bend hardlines in their wiper tray unless they have no use for their wipers. And there isn't much room behind the dash to play with hardlines w/o being able quickly remove the dash to diagnose braking issues.

People who want to do extreme tucks have to sacrifice creature comforts in what makes cars a street car. Wiring harness tucks do not affect the functionality of the cars themselves.

when you start removing heater cores, and windshield wipers... your car becomes a sun only vehicle, and unless you're trying to win trophies with your car the mods serve no purpose what so ever.
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Old 08-25-2010, 11:00 PM   #214
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I'm with Jordan, I feel hardlines in the wiper tray will be the only way a made to order kit can be done cleanly. The problem is, can it be done and retain the wiper setup and still have a clean exit from the tray? Into the firewall hardlines + stainless lines behind the firewall may be able to be pulled off as well if one can locate good exit holes and wants to run that much braided line.

I'm going all hardlines/stainless AN behind the firewall. I'll have pics up eventually.

Here's another guy who did one with lots of great info:
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/236014...-tuck-s14.html
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Old 08-25-2010, 11:11 PM   #215
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Originally Posted by ILoveMyRHS13 View Post
Wow Chase Bays has gone to absolute shit.
+1, did they cut a hole in the fender well? haha.
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Old 08-26-2010, 01:59 AM   #216
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clean enough?... btw this is how you properly do the powersteering because it is gravity feed






horrible v-mount i know, car has been sold and i believe someone on here owns it now
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:48 AM   #217
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^^How did you mount your power-steering reservoir? I'm only asking because I'm away from my car and is unsure if I can mod the stock mounting bracket.

Very nice setup BTW.
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:13 AM   #218
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that v mount is super cool because it would appear the stock radiator support is intact! (cut a lil)
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:45 AM   #219
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Im all about stock rad suppourt.
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:24 AM   #220
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Im all about stock rad suppourt.
i'm all about stock cars!
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:56 AM   #221
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Let me try some different line set ups this weekend, I appreciate the honesty from you guys and I think we can definitely make a better setup. We were going for a simple install to not remove the dash. So maybe we will make 2 different setups. We're gonna bend up some hard line too. The problem is, mass producing the hard line isn't easy...but that doesn't stop us.

This is nothing new to us, and we don't just make something and hope it works. We've been testing this on Nissan's for 3 months. From heavy stop and go traffic to 100mph into a turn to running 10.1's and stopping the car. Your stock master cylinder and lines are even closer to the heat of your exhaust. These stainless braided lines have a higher heat resistance to hard line by far. Someone said 300 degree oven, our line has a broad temperature range of -100F to 500F. Also its NOT the same as just unplugging your booster and capping it off. There is still a booster not doing what its intended to do between the pedal and master cylinder if you do that.

We've done the dirty work on these, and we know they work. I am considering making a Vimeo/YouTube video showing some of our testing.

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Old 09-01-2010, 11:29 AM   #222
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Something we came up with. Inside the car it will split to each fender well, and the Wilwood prop valve location for the rear brakes will be customizable (behind dash, in center console, in glovebox, etc.)

Also sprayed the bay






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Old 09-01-2010, 11:35 AM   #223
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much more clean..nice!
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:07 PM   #224
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Quote:
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Something we came up with. Inside the car it will split to each fender well, and the Wilwood prop valve location for the rear brakes will be customizable (behind dash, in center console, in glovebox, etc.)
Very nice! I can't wait to get my hands on the new setup.

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Old 09-01-2010, 07:32 PM   #225
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Here's my wire tuck:



A closer picture:



Fusebox location:



Glad to see Chase is on the board. I am currently running his brake line relocation kit along with his clutch line. Its bolt on and utilizes whats already there so no drilling or fabrication needed.
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:41 PM   #226
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OMG Who did that valve cover!! I must know.. NOW!!
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:42 AM   #227
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http://www.canibeat.com/wp-content/u.../2010/08/2.jpg
comes from dippedparts.com
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Old 09-02-2010, 01:14 PM   #228
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Yep! Its a titanium burnt finish. Here's a better picture:
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:22 PM   #229
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Don't mind the double coupler, that was temporary because of the tubs going forward so far. This motor is no longer in the car.
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:05 PM   #230
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Thank you!
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:34 AM   #231
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What do most for your tubs? Trailer fenders or do it your self? The new chase bay kit looks sick...props
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:55 AM   #232
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It is neat to see how you took harsh criticism in stride and redeemed yourselves. Cheers, Chase Bays.
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:19 AM   #233
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Yeah, definitely much better. Always good to see people take criticism properly.

Exactly what I'm doing with mine.
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:40 PM   #234
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Looks soooo clean but I need to know how this setup would feel with Z32 brakes!
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:55 PM   #235
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Quote:
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Yep! Its a titanium burnt finish. Here's a better picture:
omg ive been ubsessed with that finish.. id have like... alot of my cars bay detailed with that finish. i needa send some parts to that place.
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:58 AM   #236
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My Current ScottBays Integra tuck.



I WILL SOON HAVE A LOCAL SHOP (TSI in El Paso, TX), wire tuck MY S13 and I WILL POST UPDATES HERE!!

I like all the New ChaseBays products!
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:45 AM   #237
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im down for chase bay

videos of testing would be great btw!!
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Old 09-22-2010, 12:40 PM   #238
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To have the valve cover done by dipped partsits $550
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Old 09-22-2010, 01:42 PM   #239
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Crappy cell picture...


are you proud of this monstrosity?
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Old 09-22-2010, 02:34 PM   #240
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My hatch, which I am now selling.


I've been wanting to do a milspec connector for my new build but I'm not sure what exactly I will need. Do you have to use larger pins for 4g and 0g wires or are the all the same? I have my engine and lower engine harness combined into one to make things simpler. What is a good number of pins to get with one of these puppies? I think the biggest I've seen them is like a 48 pin.
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