*Ask Broadfield*

[lewisfk]

just one with box if possible.

[blueshark123]

Answers below:

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Do you have the door open when trying to do it? Yes You have to have the door open so the Viper sees the door trigger activated. Also, did you cut the accessory wire in the car to isolate the Viper accessory wire away from switch side during remote start? Yes, I cut the non constant 12v White wire in the ignition harness and hooked up the H3/7 pink/white wire to non key side and hooked up the H3/8 pink/black wire to key side Also, did you wire the 2nd starter in the car?
Yes, Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin violet wire to pin 85 of a nissan relay, pin 87 to 12v white wire, pin 86 jump to pin 87 and pin 30 to black/white wire in ignition. The nissan relay doesn't have a pin 87a but I don't think this would affect it. Also, I thought you only need the H3/1 pink wire connected to the black/red wire in ignition and have the door trigger wire and door open wire to be able to get into the menu?

I also cut the black/yellow wire in the ignition harness to connect H3/4 and H3/5. Was I suppose to not do that?

As for the 520T, the grey wire will wire to the red H1/2 wire on the Viper. Nothing else will wire to these wires. Doesn't constant 12v from white ignition wire also have to be connected to the H1/2 wire? I tried connecting it like this and the backup battery would only hold 5.5 volts and drop drastically when i connect the car battery. The alarm would also not go off.

Thanks for your help!

[upsdude]

so, in terms of keeping the interior parts like the dash and panels soft, what would you recommend to keep these from getting brittle? heard through the grapevine that armorall isn't any good.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by blueshark123

Do you have the door open when trying to do it? Yes Is the door trigger working? As in does the alarm go off when you open the door? Make sure the alarm is actually seeing ground on the green trigger wire when you open the door.

Also, did you cut the accessory wire in the car to isolate the Viper accessory wire away from switch side during remote start? Yes, I cut the non constant 12v White wire in the ignition harness and hooked up the H3/7 pink/white wire to non key side and hooked up the H3/8 pink/black wire to key side Perfect! And don't forget to program the flex relay output for "accessory" once you figure out how to program it.

Also, did you wire the 2nd starter in the car?
Yes, Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin violet wire to pin 85 of a nissan relay, pin 87 to 12v white wire, pin 86 jump to pin 87 and pin 30 to black/white wire in ignition. The nissan relay doesn't have a pin 87a but I don't think this would affect it. Perfect!

Also, I thought you only need the H3/1 pink wire connected to the black/red wire in ignition and have the door trigger wire and door open wire to be able to get into the menu? Correct, I just wanted to make sure you also had these other items wired correctly since it's different from most other remote start installs.

I also cut the black/yellow wire in the ignition harness to connect H3/4 and H3/5. Was I suppose to not do that? Yes

As for the 520T, the grey wire will wire to the red H1/2 wire on the Viper. Nothing else will wire to these wires. Doesn't constant 12v from white ignition wire also have to be connected to the H1/2 wire? I tried connecting it like this and the backup battery would only hold 5.5 volts and drop drastically when i connect the car battery. The alarm would also not go off.
The red wire on the 520T will go to the heavy gauge white wire at the ignition harness... along with the other heavy gauge red wires... red, red/white and red/black

Originally Posted by upsdude

so, in terms of keeping the interior parts like the dash and panels soft, what would you recommend to keep these from getting brittle? heard through the grapevine that armorall isn't any good.

I'm not really sure if there is a good solution for plastic. I have always used Snap-On Protect One on mine with good results. But that doesn't really mean anything in the end as it may still become brittle in the future.

[blueshark123]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Is the door trigger working? As in does the alarm go off when you open the door? Make sure the alarm is actually seeing ground on the green trigger wire when you open the door.

I will double check this. I did not actually try to unlock the car with the key and see if the alarm goes off. I'll report back. Thanks again!

[FU12]

1.Do you sell any alarms that alert with the horn of the car? 2. Is there one with Remote Start that also uses the horn 3. With Remote start do you still have to use the key to drive, as in get in after its started and still have to use the ignition cylinder?

[hpipro4]

whats your trick when doing the s13 doorcard? how did you manage the corners? kinda tricky to get the wrinkle out!

[blueshark123]

Originally Posted by blueshark123

I will double check this. I did not actually try to unlock the car with the key and see if the alarm goes off. I'll report back. Thanks again!

So this is embarrassing. I tapped into the wrong red/white wire for the door trigger. I had only seen one so I had not bothered checking it with the multimeter. I got it hooked up correctly and am now able to get into the menu! I set Menu 3 Feature 8 to Accessory 2, however, the remote start still does not work. I did not integrate the clutch switch into the alarm yet so I'm trying to remote start it while holding the clutch down, however, the remote start is not working. Are there any other features that have to be set for the remote start to work? In the mean time I'll work on getting the proximity sensor wired in.

[turbo_dreams]

Price quote on a 90 degree -4an and a 90 degree -8an fitting both in either silver/red or red/blue shipped to ny 11432.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by FU12

1.Do you sell any alarms that alert with the horn of the car? 2. Is there one with Remote Start that also uses the horn 3. With Remote start do you still have to use the key to drive, as in get in after its started and still have to use the ignition cylinder?

1) The Viper 3203 and 3303 have a dedicated horn output in addition to the siren.

2) All Viper remote start/alarm combos have a dedicated horn output.

3) Absolutely! Because when you get in the car after remote starting, as soon as you depress the foot brake the remote start will shut down... thus shutting the car off. If you have the key in the ignition and turned to the ignition/run position then the vehicle will stay running when you depress the brake. You then simply drive away.

Originally Posted by hpipro4

whats your trick when doing the s13 doorcard? how did you manage the corners? kinda tricky to get the wrinkle out!

It's not something I can really put into words for you. You just have to work at it.

Originally Posted by blueshark123

So this is embarrassing. I tapped into the wrong red/white wire for the door trigger. I had only seen one so I had not bothered checking it with the multimeter. I got it hooked up correctly and am now able to get into the menu! I set Menu 3 Feature 8 to Accessory 2, however, the remote start still does not work. I did not integrate the clutch switch into the alarm yet so I'm trying to remote start it while holding the clutch down, however, the remote start is not working. Are there any other features that have to be set for the remote start to work? In the mean time I'll work on getting the proximity sensor wired in.

Are you going through the proper sequence to remote start a manual transmission vehicle?

Originally Posted by turbo_dreams

Price quote on a 90 degree -4an and a 90 degree -8an fitting both in either silver/red or red/blue shipped to ny 11432.

You need to give me part #'s man. I don't know if you want non-swivel, double swivel or double swivel forged?

[blueshark123]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Are you going through the proper sequence to remote start a manual transmission vehicle?

I tried this sequence:
Manual transmission remote start
If the vehicle has manual transmission the proper steps must be followed before
leaving the parked vehicle or the remote start feature is disabled.
1. Make sure the doors on the vehicle are closed.
2. Put the transmission in neutral.
3. Press on the brake in the vehicle.
4. Apply the emergency brake.
5. Release the brake.
6. Within 15 seconds activate the remote start from the remote.
7. The parking lights will flash confirming that the remote start is active.
8. Turn off the ignition (the car should stay running when key is turned off).
9. Exit the vehicle.
10. Arm the alarm (the vehicle should shut off when arming the system).

I'm assuming you have to start the car before you begin this sequence? The manual doesnt specify. When I try this and I turn the ignition to off the car turns off. I don't think I have my parking lights wired in correctly as i did not turn the fuse to "+" as I am not quite sure how to do that. Will that prevent this from working?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by blueshark123

I tried this sequence:
Manual transmission remote start
If the vehicle has manual transmission the proper steps must be followed before
leaving the parked vehicle or the remote start feature is disabled.
1. Make sure the doors on the vehicle are closed.
2. Put the transmission in neutral.
3. Press on the brake in the vehicle.
4. Apply the emergency brake.
5. Release the brake.
6. Within 15 seconds activate the remote start from the remote.
7. The parking lights will flash confirming that the remote start is active.
8. Turn off the ignition (the car should stay running when key is turned off).
9. Exit the vehicle.
10. Arm the alarm (the vehicle should shut off when arming the system).

I'm assuming you have to start the car before you begin this sequence? The manual doesnt specify. When I try this and I turn the ignition to off the car turns off. I don't think I have my parking lights wired in correctly as i did not turn the fuse to "+" as I am not quite sure how to do that. Will that prevent this from working?

I'm not sure where you got that sequence from, but you are missing a couple steps:

First off, did you wire the tachometer wire? It is the violet/white on the Viper. You then need to learn the tach signal to the Viper. Did you do all of this? If so, proceed to the proper activation below:

1. With vehicle running, doors shut and in neutral, depress the foot brake
2. Apply the e-brake
3. Release the e-brake
4. Apply the e-brake
5. Release the foot brake
6. Remote start vehicle
7. Parking lights will flash and you will most likely here the remote start relays engage
8. Turn the key off and remove... vehicle should stay running
9. Open door and get out
10. Shut door
11. Arm/lock vehicle with Viper remote
12. Vehicle shuts off and is now ready for remote starting

Note: if the alarm goes off, a door is opened etc. then remote start mode will automatically be canceled.

[dave7]

Broadfield,

If you ever want to sell your white stop tech brakes, I want to buy them. Lol. Cheers.

[Matej]

Mr. Broadfield, not sure where you stand on electric vs. air tools, but are there any electric impacts you would recommend?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by Matej

Mr. Broadfield, not sure where you stand on electric vs. air tools, but are there any electric impacts you would recommend?

I use a Snap-On 3/8" drive 14v that is a beast.... but very expensive I have used it on lug nuts, suspension bolts etc. with zero issues. If you are doing very high torque applications then you would probably want a 1/2" drive 18v.

[PANDAemic]

Ok so attatched is a picture of my beeper for my car alarm. I am not familiar with this alarm at all and when I googled the brand to figure more about the alarm system, my beeper wasn't found anywhere on the site. It might be an older model, I don't know.

So to my question. My car alarm has a few warnings and it constantly goes off. There is nobody anywhere near my car and it still manages to go off. It has a 3 beep warning system but that constantly goes off as well. I was wondering if you knew more about this alarm and if you can give me maybe a model name or something. I would also like to know how to turn down the sensitivity. I bought the car with this alarm and this is the only way to lock my doors since the previous owner was stupid and removed the key locks...

I was wondering if there is a way to just use the beeper to lock the doors without engaging the alarm. Would I have to disconnect the horn? (This unit came with a horn so I'm not using my OEM horn.)

If needed, I'll try to find the main unit somewhere in the car, I have an idea of where its at but I can't really confirm since I don't know what I'm looking for...

EDIT: I dont even know how to change the time on the damn thing...
EDIT 2: Buying a new alarm is currently out of the question because I can't afford one at the moment but I do plan on buying a Viper alarm from you eventually...

[blueshark123]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I'm not sure where you got that sequence from, but you are missing a couple steps:

First off, did you wire the tachometer wire? It is the violet/white on the Viper. You then need to learn the tach signal to the Viper. Did you do all of this? If so, proceed to the proper activation below:

1. With vehicle running, doors shut and in neutral, depress the foot brake
2. Apply the e-brake
3. Release the e-brake
4. Apply the e-brake
5. Release the foot brake
6. Remote start vehicle
7. Parking lights will flash and you will most likely here the remote start relays engage
8. Turn the key off and remove... vehicle should stay running
9. Open door and get out
10. Shut door
11. Arm/lock vehicle with Viper remote
12. Vehicle shuts off and is now ready for remote starting

Note: if the alarm goes off, a door is opened etc. then remote start mode will automatically be canceled.

I got that sequence from the Viper 5701 install guide. I retried the same sequence but instead removed the key and now it works. The install guide said just to leave it off but wasn't working. Thanks for your help!!

[blueshark123]

So now I'm stumped. Remote start will only work once after do i this sequence. I have to do the sequence every time for it to remote start. Is this expected behavior?

[iveexcaped3]

on that engine push start button and the hud wheel cover how did you get the hud to work with the analog gages?

[XxHybridx]

First of all, just installed the 2 way alarm i bought from you, works like a charm, thanks!

Now i have a question, i am completely and i mean completely clueless when it comes to sound systems. I am looking to replace my speakers on my s13 and add some in the rear. I am looking for some good quality speakers with decent bass of course. What would you recommend for a good set, I dont need the top notch speakers that will make the windows on the car next to me shake but i want something definitely worth the price. Like someone else stated in the thread, I will be drifting the car so I am not looking to buy a sub I MAY consider a amp, but i rather not. Would just like a good speaker set up that will not sound like garbage. I also saw that you refer to Hybrid Audio as a good brand. Do you recommend any other brands?

And also, what line of speakers do you sell.(if any? although i think you do sell speakers as well, could be wrong.)

thanks!

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by PANDAemic

Ok so attatched is a picture of my beeper for my car alarm. I am not familiar with this alarm at all and when I googled the brand to figure more about the alarm system, my beeper wasn't found anywhere on the site. It might be an older model, I don't know.

So to my question. My car alarm has a few warnings and it constantly goes off. There is nobody anywhere near my car and it still manages to go off. It has a 3 beep warning system but that constantly goes off as well. I was wondering if you knew more about this alarm and if you can give me maybe a model name or something. I would also like to know how to turn down the sensitivity. I bought the car with this alarm and this is the only way to lock my doors since the previous owner was stupid and removed the key locks...

I was wondering if there is a way to just use the beeper to lock the doors without engaging the alarm. Would I have to disconnect the horn? (This unit came with a horn so I'm not using my OEM horn.)

If needed, I'll try to find the main unit somewhere in the car, I have an idea of where its at but I can't really confirm since I don't know what I'm looking for...

EDIT: I dont even know how to change the time on the damn thing...
EDIT 2: Buying a new alarm is currently out of the question because I can't afford one at the moment but I do plan on buying a Viper alarm from you eventually...

I have never heard or seen that brand... but pretty much all brands of alarms operate the same. It will most likely have an outboard or inboard shock sensor. Either way it will have a small adjustment knob on the side or top that adjusts it. It may be an inset potentiometer that you need a little screw driver to adjust. If you are just wanting it to function as a keyless, then the easiest way is to put the alarm system into valet mode. However, I wouldn't know how to do that on the particular brand of alarm. Otherwise you will need to disconnect several wires and reattach the starter wire in order for it to operate solely as a keyless.

Originally Posted by blueshark123

I got that sequence from the Viper 5701 install guide. I retried the same sequence but instead removed the key and now it works. The install guide said just to leave it off but wasn't working. Thanks for your help!!

What do you mean by remove the key? You obviously need to remove the key to take it with you when you get out of the car.

Originally Posted by blueshark123

So now I'm stumped. Remote start will only work once after do i this sequence. I have to do the sequence every time for it to remote start. Is this expected behavior?

As long as you only shut it down with the remote or the remote starter times out, then you can restart it without the sequence. But if you open a door, hit the brake(which you would obviously need to open the door) or the alarm is triggered, then you would need to redo the sequence. Under normal circumstances this is not an issue. You will remote start it when you are at work etc. and then come out and open the door and leave. You will then do the sequence for the next remote start. But if you are just in your driveway testing things and you open the door after you remote start it, then yes you would have to do the sequence again. But in normal situations there would be no reason to remote start it more than once between driving the car from one spot to the next.

Originally Posted by iveexcaped3

on that engine push start button and the hud wheel cover how did you get the hud to work with the analog gages?

The HUD will link with any Defi gauges that use the Link Controller. If the HUD is used with other gauges then it will only display what it does on it's own... which is speed and RPM.

Originally Posted by XxHybridx

First of all, just installed the 2 way alarm i bought from you, works like a charm, thanks!

Now i have a question, i am completely and i mean completely clueless when it comes to sound systems. I am looking to replace my speakers on my s13 and add some in the rear. I am looking for some good quality speakers with decent bass of course. What would you recommend for a good set, I dont need the top notch speakers that will make the windows on the car next to me shake but i want something definitely worth the price. Like someone else stated in the thread, I will be drifting the car so I am not looking to buy a sub I MAY consider a amp, but i rather not. Would just like a good speaker set up that will not sound like garbage. I also saw that you refer to Hybrid Audio as a good brand. Do you recommend any other brands?

And also, what line of speakers do you sell.(if any? although i think you do sell speakers as well, could be wrong.)

thanks!

Yes, I sell speakers... I wouldn't be much of a high-end car audio store if I didn't I think people on here forget that car audio is my job/life. Making gauge clusters etc. is not... that stuff is just extra because I can. I am partners in a full fledged, full service car audio shop. I sell Hybrid Audio, ARC Audio, Alpine, JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Viper, Escort, Second Skin, IXOS etc. I install six days a week(over 25,000 vehicles under my belt) and then sell and answer questions on here in the evening. I just don't advertise much car audio on here because it's against dealer agreements. So when you see a website selling JL Audio, Viper, ARC Audio, Hybrid Audio etc. they are NOT authorized dealers. They simply get it from a distributor. There are a couple instances where a website is authorized, but it's very rare. For example, 12velectronics.com is the only website authorized to sell Hybrid... but they can not sell it below M.A.P. You can go to the websites of any of the brands I carry and find my business in the authorized dealers list.

So to answer your question: Hybrid Audio. There isn't a better speaker at any price point. I would recommend either the Mirius or Imagine... although I'm going to assume the Mirius are more within your price range. An amplifier will really make them come alive though! So I always try to push the customer to consider a decent amplifier... which I recommend one of the ARC Audio XDi series. Please send me a PM or email if you want to discuss pricing and options on anything.

[ill.]

Yo Mr. Broadfield.

In this picture, on your SR20DET setup, you have fancy looking rocker cover bolts.



May I ask where you got them from (if you remember, and are you using the OEM rubber seal/steel washer combo underneath them, or am I seeing things?

Thanks mate!

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by ill.

Yo Mr. Broadfield.

In this picture, on your SR20DET setup, you have fancy looking rocker cover bolts.



May I ask where you got them from (if you remember, and are you using the OEM rubber seal/steel washer combo underneath them, or am I seeing things?

Thanks mate!

Those are from Gallery Fresh. And yes, I am using the OEM rubber/steel washer underneath them. I pretty much had every bolt/nut in my bay done with those... except everything but the valve cover was done with black ones. You can see in the same pic that the intake manifold had them, the strut tower nuts etc. I used them in around 90 locations in all.

Note: For my valve cover I had to make my own "setup". The S14/15 valve covers use shoulder bolts to attach them. Whereas the S13's use shoulder studs and nuts. If you have an S13 valve cover then you can simply order the nuts from Gallery Fresh and then maybe reuse the rubber/steel OEM washers like I did. I have never had an S13 SR though, so I can't 100% confirm what the fastener setup is. So back to my setup, I had to order custom shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr and then order the washers from Gallery Fresh. However, even with all of my super Broadfield powers, Gallery Fresh would not let me order just the washers. Gallery only sells the stuff in groups of 2 or 4 and only as a bolt/washer combo, nut/washer combo, screw/washer combo etc. So I wasted money on their bolts just to get the washers... only to turn around and not use the bolts at all. So I spent a pretty penny to make that valve cover setup.

[iveexcaped3]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

The HUD will link with any Defi gauges that use the Link Controller. If the HUD is used with other gauges then it will only display what it does on it's own... which is speed and RPM.

so if i splice in the HUD wires to the factory harness going to an oem analog cluster it will project onto the windshield?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by iveexcaped3

so if i splice in the HUD wires to the factory harness going to an oem analog cluster it will project onto the windshield?

If you are using the Defi HUD, then you simply tap into VSS and Tach(RPM) signal. It will then display those items. If you are wanting to display it on your windshield then you would need the Defi-Link VSD Concept. If you want a standalone unit that displays on it's own reflective glass, which is what I use when I mold it into the steering shroud, then you want to buy the Defi-Link VSD-X. Both of which are discontinued. But you can find them new and used from time-to-time on Ebay etc.

[iveexcaped3]

i was talking about the oem 240 hud with the oem analog cluster, ive searched it alot of times and no one has figured it out, an electronic guru like you i figured you would know better than anyone, i want to try to get both to work but from my understanding the oem hud only works off the digital cluster cuz it just mirrors the cluster image, but if i was to find the diagram for the hud and the wiring diagram for the analog cluster can i just splice in the the wires into the analog cluster and have the hud throw up a display?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by iveexcaped3

i was talking about the oem 240 hud with the oem analog cluster, ive searched it alot of times and no one has figured it out, an electronic guru like you i figured you would know better than anyone, i want to try to get both to work but from my understanding the oem hud only works off the digital cluster cuz it just mirrors the cluster image, but if i was to find the diagram for the hud and the wiring diagram for the analog cluster can i just splice in the the wires into the analog cluster and have the hud throw up a display?

Oh, because in your first post below where you asked the question, you are referring to the vehicle that I did the push button start and the HUD on the steering shroud along with the Blitz gauge cluster!?! That's a Defi HUD that I molded into the steering shroud.

Originally Posted by iveexcaped3

on that engine push start button and the hud wheel cover how did you get the hud to work with the analog gages?

I have zero experience with any of the OEM stuff. I just gut them and install cool stuff in it's place. So I have no idea if what you want to do will work. I could figure out if it would work, but someone would have to pay me to do so. If you want to try and figure it out you can simply look in the FSM. It has both the analog and digital cluster wiring schematics.

[iveexcaped3]

oh yeah i thought you used oem stuff on it, guess ill have to trial and error it and find out if it works or frys components lol, thanks anyway

[ill.]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Those are from Gallery Fresh. And yes, I am using the OEM rubber/steel washer underneath them. I pretty much had every bolt/nut in my bay done with those... except everything but the valve cover was done with black ones. You can see in the same pic that the intake manifold had them, the strut tower nuts etc. I used them in around 90 locations in all.

Note: For my valve cover I had to make my own "setup". The S14/15 valve covers use shoulder bolts to attach them. Whereas the S13's use shoulder studs and nuts. If you have an S13 valve cover then you can simply order the nuts from Gallery Fresh and then maybe reuse the rubber/steel OEM washers like I did. I have never had an S13 SR though, so I can't 100% confirm what the fastener setup is. So back to my setup, I had to order custom shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr and then order the washers from Gallery Fresh. However, even with all of my super Broadfield powers, Gallery Fresh would not let me order just the washers. Gallery only sells the stuff in groups of 2 or 4 and only as a bolt/washer combo, nut/washer combo, screw/washer combo etc. So I wasted money on their bolts just to get the washers... only to turn around and not use the bolts at all. So I spent a pretty penny to make that valve cover setup.

Cool thanks man!

Also, did you run your CAS wiring down the turbo side of your engine? I can't see it crossing the front, so I can only assume you did? Did you heat sleeve it or anything? No problems to run it like that?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by ill.

Cool thanks man!

Also, did you run your CAS wiring down the turbo side of your engine? I can't see it crossing the front, so I can only assume you did? Did you heat sleeve it or anything? No problems to run it like that?

Yes, I ran it along side all of the AN breather lines. I ran it in some black -4 Thermo-Tec heat sleeve.