GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[Seraphim38]

I have the .73 AR external wastegate housing on my GT2871R. My list of modifications and pictures of the installation are a page or so back.

My car spools far too late; it really doesn't fully spool up until 5k rpm and I am suspecting that it has to do with the BC264 cams. I have a tentative appointment next week to have my cams degreed. My old GT2871R .64 setup was vastly more responsive, but I also had stock cams and a stock head with stock valvetrain. My car still made a decent amount of power up high, but for the street if re-timing the cams doesn't get me back a lot of my midrange I will either replace the cams or say screw it and go to a GT3071R top mount setup.

[di-devol]

3076

msglgnth

[nickauger]

Originally Posted by StepN2Boost

Posted some questions a while back before my tune here are the results
Mods: 1991 Sr20 redtop, Gt2871r .64 Ar, Aem Ems, 810cc injectors, Fpr, Walbro 255, turboback exhaust, fmic

Blue=14psi
Red=18.5psi


I do have a few issues however. Fuel pressure keeps dropping. Just had brand new pump, lines, filter, injectors, fpr installed. Don't understand. Only thing I can think of is when I picked it up it was on E! I went to take it for first drive and not ten minutes after it was on It popped/melted the pump fuse. I replaced the fuse and went for a short drive, came back and FP dropped to 30psi. So I took it back to the shop that did the work, and they hardlined the pump directly to the battery and used the oem pump relay as a trigger, they said they road tested it and was holding FP just fine. Drove fine on the way home, pulled in the driveway and the FP was at 20psi!

Just to be sure have you rewired your fuel pump to have a constant 14 volt ?

[StepN2Boost]

I'm not sure if its wired to rcv constant 14v, but I ended up changing the aeromotive knockoff fpr to an authentic one and my problems have went away. And the walbro 255 hasn't failed yet, but if/when it does I have the aeromotive 340lph to swap in.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Seraphim38

I have the .73 AR external wastegate housing on my GT2871R. My list of modifications and pictures of the installation are a page or so back.

My car spools far too late; it really doesn't fully spool up until 5k rpm and I am suspecting that it has to do with the BC264 cams. I have a tentative appointment next week to have my cams degreed. My old GT2871R .64 setup was vastly more responsive, but I also had stock cams and a stock head with stock valvetrain. My car still made a decent amount of power up high, but for the street if re-timing the cams doesn't get me back a lot of my midrange I will either replace the cams or say screw it and go to a GT3071R top mount setup.

I'd say the realistic answer is to get better cams, and go back with the .64 housing.

...and if you want to make big power, you may as well put a 3076 (or a 35r) on it, and really make some HP....as any T3 setup is gonna be lazy feeling on street...may as well make the HP with it!

Originally Posted by ForeignMuscle

I'm about to bolt on my setup using the 2871. Oem manis, Atp backside (which im bummed about) Tial mvr, and so on. I've yet to see anything but complaining about the .72 housing, but I'm also only using the car for drag. I don't know what to expect. I'm using S3's and Nistune via 4x4le and e85. Hopefully most of you just need a different powerband and this will work perfect for me. Paging CodyAce...

I think you may end up ok. If you're gonna run corn gas, you're going to be able to run MUCH more timing, and make MUCH more power. I'd say run it, and see how it ends up. Sounds like that would be an easy 425-450 whp setup with some big boost and taking it to 7850/8000rpm for sure (as in, that car should run a high 10/low 11 if it's a drag setup)

With that said though, keep the thread updated

Originally Posted by ForeignMuscle

Just looking for any input from someone who knows or has used the .72. I'm thinking the later spool will be fine for the strip but codyace mentioned it has horrible flow. I was under the impression it would allow more top end and shift my powerband to higher rpms which would be useful. I really don't see myself needing any low end grunt at all but I could be wrong.

I shouldn't say horrible flow, that's a bad comment from my own mouth really. It just is kinda big for the setup for a street car, and response will (as even pointed out) be a bit sour because of it.

But with a drag car, you're going to be launching at 4500+ rpm anyway, and above that threshold the entire time. I think it will work well.

[Kingtal0n]

This engine has BC 264 cams and the 86 a/r exhaust housing (2871r)
It even has the large 57 trim compressor.


12psi


So, not the cams fault.
Here is a picture of the cams after being run for 5 years inside the engine:


Still looking brand new, excellent wear pattern. can not complain about these cams, they sound like STOCK, idle is rock solid at 800rpm with the A/C on, and there is NO drop in torque noticable at any rpm after full boost (yet). Have yet to push this engine to its limit... so fwiw grain of sand

[ForeignMuscle]

Thanks a lot for the input codyace! One more question though.. Would S4's be my hot ticket? This is a stock head (aside from cams) and stock block as well. Some might laugh at that. I have faith in 4x4le though. We shall see. You said high 10's.. Makes me smile

[ForeignMuscle]

Hoping to have mine installed and ready to go by next weekend.

My only issue will be keeping the silicone elbow from melting. I bought what is suppose to be top notch industrial grade silicone. HPS silicone hoses. Anyone ever used them? Anyways my wastegate dump just does not have enough room to be routed down by the elbow. I think I would have been ok if I had used the 38mm MVS instead of the 44mm MVR. It will point towards the front of the car and go straight down in front of the crossmember. With the direction the turbo is clocked the manifold is about one inch from the silicone boot and the dump tube is about one inch away on the opposite side. Also, if I didn't have solid motor mounts I don't think this would work. Everything is packed so tight.



Don't mind the nasty engine bay. Car has been sitting for almost 3 months.

[jaysgottaredtop]

^ exhaust wrap on that WG dump, and heat shield beneath the brake master.

you should also consider cutting your hood and rotating that WG dump 180˚ up

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

This engine has BC 264 cams and the 86 a/r exhaust housing (2871r)
It even has the large 57 trim compressor.
12psi
So, not the cams fault.
Here is a picture of the cams after being run for 5 years inside the engine:

I know dyno racing is silly in the true sense of it all, but it would be nice to see it run out to 7500 at least to see how it reacts up top. Stopping at 6k is a tease. What was causing the issue up top, the dyno pickup or something else?

And there is no doubt that the cams breaking/failing is not so much of BC (or anyones) fault,other than the installer.

Originally Posted by ForeignMuscle

Thanks a lot for the input codyace! One more question though.. Would S4's be my hot ticket? This is a stock head (aside from cams) and stock block as well. Some might laugh at that. I have faith in 4x4le though. We shall see. You said high 10's.. Makes me smile

S4's are a more upper midrange/top end cam, so if you have the ability to swing the engine, I'd probably say give the s4's a shot. I've truthfully always wanted to do a back/back comparison with s4's, maybe someday I'll get around to doing that.

And high 10's for sure. I went 11.6 with a crappy 1.88 in a full weight s14 on my very first night of drag racing. I figure with a better launch (I was just foot launching it, no launch control or anything) even in the high 1.5X/low 1.6X range would dump my own car down into the low low 11's...with your setup making more power/less weight there should be no reason not to crack off a high 10.

Originally Posted by ForeignMuscle

My only issue will be keeping the silicone elbow from melting. I bought what is suppose to be top notch industrial grade silicone. HPS silicone hoses. Anyone ever used them?

Hah, the old sillicone elbows...for a street car, drag car...I don't see them ever having an issue. But on a track car like mine, which sees 25-30 minutes of WOT heat, 4-6 times a day, it melts the crease in them them fairly quickly. I solved this issue by welding on a elbow onto the turbo outlet, and then having a straight coupler up top closer to the hood.


With that said, it just creates a TON of heat down there. If anything I'd certainly suggest proper heat wrap/gaurds if you can. I've melted enough stuff on track to now have heat sheathing on everything...DEI makes great stuff.

[zurud]

I dyno my car couple days. I got 358 whp and 348 wtq at 18 psi. I think 400 whp is only possible with race gas, e85 or water/alcohol injetion. I think I might go with water/alcohol since they are avaiable everywhere. My setup redtop sr20det, stock internal other than arp headstud and cometic mhg, gt2871r(743347-2) 0.86 turbine housing, 850cc denso, n62 maf, ebay manifold, 3" from elbow to exhaust and fmic. Nismotronic nemu rt ecu. Can anybody running map system tell us their air intake temperature at 18 or 20 psi. From the compressor map it shows 20 psi is where 45 lb/min is.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by zurud

I dyno my car couple days. I got 358 whp and 348 wtq at 18 psi. I think 400 whp is only possible with race gas, e85 or water/alcohol injetion. I think I might go with water/alcohol since they are avaiable everywhere. My setup redtop sr20det, stock internal other than arp headstud and cometic mhg, gt2871r(743347-2) 0.86 turbine housing, 850cc denso, n62 maf, ebay manifold, 3" from elbow to exhaust and fmic. Nismotronic nemu rt ecu. Can anybody running map system tell us their air intake temperature at 18 or 20 psi. From the compressor map it shows 20 psi is where 45 lb/min is.

400 whp is totally posssible on 93 pump gas. No water or corn needed. It's in the tune, and the total package.

[StepN2Boost]

Originally Posted by zurud

I dyno my car couple days. I got 358 whp and 348 wtq at 18 psi. I think 400 whp is only possible with race gas, e85 or water/alcohol injetion. I think I might go with water/alcohol since they are avaiable everywhere. My setup redtop sr20det, stock internal other than arp headstud and cometic mhg, gt2871r(743347-2) 0.86 turbine housing, 850cc denso, n62 maf, ebay manifold, 3" from elbow to exhaust and fmic. Nismotronic nemu rt ecu. Can anybody running map system tell us their air intake temperature at 18 or 20 psi. From the compressor map it shows 20 psi is where 45 lb/min is.

358whp/348wtq is a nice start, but I'm with codyace on the fuel. 400whp is attainable on 93 pump, especially with the 0.86 a/r. Also, I'm running a map sensor with my aem ems, I might be able to get you the intake temp @ 18psi if that would help(on my 0.64 a/r)? Just have to give my tuner a shout.

[zurud]

This thread been going on for 6 years now . Very few people break 400whp on this turbo. Most are in 350 range with pump gas. If it in the tune , what kind of tune? More timing, less timing at the end? More fuel, less fuel, 11.8 afr, 12.8 afr. What's the secret? I'll be enjoying this turbo for a year. Next year definitely T3 setup. Cheap Chinese T3 turbo that I'll probably blowup with antilag. The price is the same anyway.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by zurud

This thread been going on for 6 years now . Very few people break 400whp on this turbo. Most are in 350 range with pump gas. If it in the tune , what kind of tune? More timing, less timing at the end? More fuel, less fuel, 11.8 afr, 12.8 afr. What's the secret? I'll be enjoying this turbo for a year. Next year definitely T3 setup. Cheap Chinese T3 turbo that I'll probably blowup with antilag. The price is the same anyway.

I'd say the numbers are higher than you think. Truthfully there are more 385+ whp 2871r cars not on the forum that I've met and been around than on, so that doesn't help the numbers here either.

The big thing with these cars that make the power is that they don't skimp out, and don't have shortcuts (or many if they do). They all run a namebrand cam (typically the JWT/HKS/Tomei units), they all run good tunes (JWT/Enthalpy ECU or a GOOD tuner, not some random guy), they all have the intake manifolds, they all have quality intercooler setups etc etc etc.

So when you see most guys making 350 whp, you can easily look back at their setup and find the things. Cheap intercooler, factory intake manifold, cheezy cheap tubular manifold, BC Cams, tuned by XYZ Racing in Bumblefuck PA, etc etc....goes to show how how attention to detail makes all the difference with these setups. Is a 350 whp setup good? Hell yea. They run great, are faster than most cars, dont' blow up engines....and that's why it's so easy to skimp and be content. Not saying one way is right or wrong, but it shows you how capable these turbos/engines are with a good setup.

[zurud]

Now I see what you mean. To gain that extra 50 whp is gonna cost thousands. 1k intercooler instead of 100 buck, 500 buck manifold instead of free manifold. I wish you told us 6 years ago. 400whp is possible but certainly not cheap on garrett gt2871r in sr20det. Wrong turbo for me. I want the highest hp with minimum investment. I call that efficiency. This turbo is not efficient for me. Its T3 time.

Thanks Cody for your explanation.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by zurud

Now I see what you mean. To gain that extra 50 whp is gonna cost thousands. 1k intercooler instead of 100 buck, 500 buck manifold instead of free manifold. I wish you told us 6 years ago. 400whp is possible but certainly not cheap on garrett gt2871r in sr20det. Wrong turbo for me. I want the highest hp with minimum investment. I call that efficiency. This turbo is not efficient for me. Its T3 time.

Thanks Cody for your explanation.

I guess you are not talking about Volumetric Efficiency.

Supporting mods like that are going to be needed for any high horsepower application. Larger turbos are going to choke with the restriction worse. Sure you can force it with a bigger turbo and higher PSI. Then you will be wondering why you are only making 400hp when everyone else is making 5-600.

Quality doesn't mean you have to get a JDM tight FMIC kit. Just a quality core. I have ebay piping matched to a quality core. Core cost 2x the fmic kit.

People put the Greddy Intake manifold on stock cars to look cool. It's a worthy investment for top end power. You have an ebay intake or exhaust manifold?

I think you can fix your setup for less than a T3 setup.

[cotbu]

Cody, just simplified it for you! You have to spend the money wisely, That's all!

I also agree with S14DB!

[nash-singapore]

What intake manifold are you on cody? Are your internals stock ?

[ForeignMuscle]

Originally Posted by zurud

Now I see what you mean. To gain that extra 50 whp is gonna cost thousands. 1k intercooler instead of 100 buck, 500 buck manifold instead of free manifold. I wish you told us 6 years ago. 400whp is possible but certainly not cheap on garrett gt2871r in sr20det. Wrong turbo for me. I want the highest hp with minimum investment. I call that efficiency. This turbo is not efficient for me. Its T3 time.

Thanks Cody for your explanation.

Wtf do you expect? He's not your babysitter. You should have done your own research. And t3, minimum investment? Doesn't fucking exsist. $1000 turbo. $800 mani. Downpipe, longer lines, intake fab.. Learn your shit before you come bashing someone who devotes so much of his time helping dumb ass people like you. Go buy your junk turbo, your Ichiba mani and a fence post downpipe. Minimum investment... Go ls if you want a cheap worry free setup. Obviously you don't have the funds for a proper turbo car, nor the knowledge. T3 is most definitely more expensive IF DONE RIGHT, which it sounds like thats not the route you'll take. Have a fun learning experience.

[boniomario]

LOL ^^^ This guy made my day

[180sxqc]

x2!!

msglengt

[KOME]

Just spray it brosephina jolie

[codyace]

Originally Posted by zurud

Now I see what you mean. To gain that extra 50 whp is gonna cost thousands. 1k intercooler instead of 100 buck, 500 buck manifold instead of free manifold. I wish you told us 6 years ago. 400whp is possible but certainly not cheap on garrett gt2871r in sr20det. Wrong turbo for me. I want the highest hp with minimum investment. I call that efficiency. This turbo is not efficient for me. Its T3 time.

Thanks Cody for your explanation.

JWT Tune
JWT S3 Cams
Greddy Intake
Good Core
Stock Exhaust Manifold (extrude honed)
GT2871r .64

That's all you need. That's the basics. I did that with all the rest being dead stock. Nothing fancy, nothing crazy, nothing wild. The issue is, I did my resarch, and bought the right stuff.

Sure I could have saved cash and fabbed my own IC pipes, but if you look long enough...and hard enough, you will find the stuff you need.

Heck my roomate made 400whp with a Freddy Intake! Same damn thing. Gotta take the precautions in regard to the re tapping of holes and stuff, but fuggit, it works.

350 whp is a fun streeter...by all means it rips. That's a low high 11/low 12 second 115mph car, that makes power all over. Thing is if you want 400 and don't want to spend 1000's on a top mount, you gotta spend a bit more outside the basic bin catalouge.

Originally Posted by S14db

I think you can fix your setup for less than a T3 setup.

Without a doubt. Then again any knucklehead can put a big turbo on and make power. The thing I love is when they go 3071 with the (as you even said) shit parts, and only make 435 at 20psi. I'd gladly take the 400-415 at 20psi on the efficient 2871r setup

Originally Posted by cotbu

Cody, just simplified it for you! You have to spend the money wisely, That's all!

I also agree with S14DB!

Preach it! 100% True!

I think what many 'new modders' get confused with is that name brand automatically makes things better...but it doesn't. Properly matched parts, with proper supporting mods, always makes for a better experience. To be honest, a 325-350 2871r whp setup would bore me...I'd rather have a hot rod 330 whp 28RS for that power!

Originally Posted by ForeignMuscle

Wtf do you expect? He's not your babysitter. You should have done your own research. And t3, minimum investment? Doesn't fucking exsist. $1000 turbo. $800 mani. Downpipe, longer lines, intake fab.. Learn your shit before you come bashing someone who devotes so much of his time helping dumb ass people like you. Go buy your junk turbo, your Ichiba mani and a fence post downpipe. Minimum investment... Go ls if you want a cheap worry free setup. Obviously you don't have the funds for a proper turbo car, nor the knowledge. T3 is most definitely more expensive IF DONE RIGHT, which it sounds like thats not the route you'll take. Have a fun learning experience.

If they can't build a 2871r setup right, how can you expect them to sort out a LSx based setup LOL!

Thanks for the good words. I try to help everyone, but at the end of the day the majority is content with the lack of HP as they saved 500-1000 bucks (after they already pissed away 2500-4000 on everything else).

To me if you're gonna rob a store, you may as well rob 10. If you're gonna bet in Vegas, bet big. If you're ok with pissing away 5k on a setup, why not 6k? LOL!

[ForeignMuscle]

Codyace, I have yet to disagree with your words. Anything worth doing is worth doing right. In other news, my car bit the dist last night. First night driving it with the new setup. Cruising at about 50mph and then bam bam bam bam bam... Nothing exited the block. I shut it off and called the tow man. Sounded like a rod bearing but i won't know for sure until i tear it down. Sooo it looks like I will be deciding which rotating assembly to go with.

[4-20sx]

Everyone just listen to Cody....

If he was a minister of a church, shoot i'd go to church everyday to listen to him.
Haha. I'm serious though. He knows his shit.

If you want a t3 setup, please start a new t3 power thread. If you want a 2871r sr20 with 400+ power just copy Cody setup. He knows his stuff....

[usdm180sx]

Cody did you forget to mention the n15 throttle body?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by usdm180sx

Cody did you forget to mention the n15 throttle body?

When I initially made 400 years ago the car had the stock TB, a new ATP internal wastegate (as new it did hold 20psi haha). Stock ignition system as well.

Now over the years I've changed those things (internal gate in favor of external as the internal gates would suck after hard driving, N15 thottle body as I got a smoking deal on it and knew it would be a worthwhile upgrade, and the ignition system after I had a coil die)....but the main ingredients to the sauce are still there.

However as I've also said in the past, I am in no way the Pioneer with this. I learned the way to 'go' with my 240 after years in the FWD Turbo arena, and watching a very good friend of mine set up his B14 (gt28r/JWT ECU/JWT S3/ etc etc) and make 325whp years ago (more recently making 360whp with a GT28RS). Quality matched parts, on the right setup. You couldn't beat the response and it was fun. I knew for my car when I set it up that I wanted that sesnation of a 'true street' car. Not waiting till 4800 rpm for boost, not driving around the lack of torque...I just wanted it to act OEM+....and it has.

[badbob2121]

My setup is still running its ass off.. and I couldnt be happier with it.

Thanks again to Cody and all the others who posted useful info, this thread = legit.

[boniomario]

Although Cody and I had our disagreement when it came to tuning and in the end were able to resolve it like sirs, I have to admit hands down that he truly knows WTF he is talking about and is a true gem to this site

Thanks Cody for all the useful info you post except for the tune