the wire tuck pic thread

[Zach-sr]

Originally Posted by Stratokat

are you proud of this monstrosity?

What bothers you so much about it?

[Chase Bays]

thanks dudes!

pending KA24 harness

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Gription

My hatch, which I am now selling.

I've been wanting to do a milspec connector for my new build but I'm not sure what exactly I will need. Do you have to use larger pins for 4g and 0g wires or are the all the same? I have my engine and lower engine harness combined into one to make things simpler. What is a good number of pins to get with one of these puppies? I think the biggest I've seen them is like a 48 pin.

For the upper and lower engine harnesses (minus the power wires) a 37-pin connector (a very common connector count) works out, barely. In a shell size 23 (also very common), these are fairly inexpensive. These are what I use on all my SR and KA engine harnesses with bulkhead fittings.

For passing main power through the firewall, I like Marinco twist-to-lock connectors (although you can also get Mil-spec circular connectors with 4ga pins, but they're billet pins and very expensive). They're used extensively in the entertainment industry, as well as the marine industry. You can go 4ga or 1/0ga, and they're less than $50 I believe for the bulkhead connnector and the fitting that goes on the line.

[Touge_Monster]

Originally Posted by Chase Bays

thanks dudes!

pending KA24 harness

Cool! Cant wait to see the finished product

[ALEXTHESUS*PECT]

Originally Posted by Gription

My hatch, which I am now selling.


I've been wanting to do a milspec connector for my new build but I'm not sure what exactly I will need. Do you have to use larger pins for 4g and 0g wires or are the all the same? I have my engine and lower engine harness combined into one to make things simpler. What is a good number of pins to get with one of these puppies? I think the biggest I've seen them is like a 48 pin.

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

For the upper and lower engine harnesses (minus the power wires) a 37-pin connector (a very common connector count) works out, barely. In a shell size 23 (also very common), these are fairly inexpensive. These are what I use on all my SR and KA engine harnesses with bulkhead fittings.

For passing main power through the firewall, I like Marinco twist-to-lock connectors (although you can also get Mil-spec circular connectors with 4ga pins, but they're billet pins and very expensive). They're used extensively in the entertainment industry, as well as the marine industry. You can go 4ga or 1/0ga, and they're less than $50 I believe for the bulkhead connnector and the fitting that goes on the line.

yoy fly him out and have him do it for you like half of formula d does!

[29psiHybrid]

My old S13 coupe. VG30dett singled, shaved bay, smoothed fender tubs, hidden brake setup, etc... Circa 2005




And with SR in it, how I sold it.

[PerilousActs]

^ So you're the guy who owns that. Posted a pic of it earlier in this thread.


Chase, there's an old air cooled vdub trick for hiding the wires that go into the distributor. Unfortunately I lost the link to it. It may be worth looking into if you wanna make it even more tucked. Just a thought.

[Om1kron]

cant link images from myspace.

[29psiHybrid]

Originally Posted by PerilousActs

^ So you're the guy who owns that. Posted a pic of it earlier in this thread.

Well, used to own it. Sold it to a guy in Georgia and missed it ever since. Where's the pic you posted of it? I never seen him post any pics after he bought it other than the ones I took of it.

Originally Posted by Om1kron

cant link images from myspace.

Fixed

[Om1kron]

ah I remember that car, I was trying to get the single wiper kit that you had on it but nobody can get their hands on it anymore. Or at least I think it was that car with the single wiper setup.

[Chase Bays]

Originally Posted by PerilousActs

Chase, there's an old air cooled vdub trick for hiding the wires that go into the distributor. Unfortunately I lost the link to it. It may be worth looking into if you wanna make it even more tucked. Just a thought.

Never seen that! Interested in seeing it though.

Update, still not finished;

[wannabdr1ftr]

awesome progress guys^^

[ETHANOLED SR]

Engine harness tucked and ready to go, coil packs are not plugged in yet!



Build is still in the works but all the wiring work is complete.

[GSXRJJordan]

Why would you cut the whole front end off, but leave the factory wheel wells? Perfect opportunity for tubs, and now you'll have to repaint when you lower it (or put real tires on the front) and realize it rubs.

[ETHANOLED SR]

Man! This has to be like the 10th time I've been ridiculed for not tubbing the car! I didn't see the need for tubs on my car, I think the factory ones look fine and do their small job of keeping some tire dirt away!

The front end slammed on the Tein's, running 18x8.5's never rubbed before with a full lock drift! I plan on running a 25-30mm spacer to accommodate the wide origin fenders I have, so unless I end up running 19's x 11+ with an insane offset I wont have rubbing issues.

Hey Jeff, if worst come to worst I will go back to my original plan and cut out the stock tubs to the towers!

[silviaguy240]

yo dudes, whats the easiest way of running the driver side harness through the engine bay, unplugging it from under the dash? because my fender doesnt fit right with it tucked up.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by silviaguy240

yo dudes, whats the easiest way of running the driver side harness through the engine bay, unplugging it from under the dash? because my fender doesnt fit right with it tucked up.

This.

Can it reach without having to extend all the wires?

[msanchez]

Originally Posted by silviaguy240

yo dudes, whats the easiest way of running the driver side harness through the engine bay, unplugging it from under the dash? because my fender doesnt fit right with it tucked up.

I cut all my wires right in the fender well, pulled it back from the headlight area and rerouted it down the drivers side frame rail in the engine bay, pull the loom through that little hole behind the shock tower. I recommend cutting 5 wires at a time and taping the looms together. that way you can stagger your cuts and you dont have to worry about searching through 50 wires to find each end of the cut. solder, heatshrink and loom. took me a few hours.

Edit: dont forget to add some type of heat shielding around the loom where the manifold is before you resolder everything together.

[nathanong87]

Originally Posted by msanchez

I cut all my wires right in the fender well, pulled it back from the headlight area and rerouted it down the drivers side frame rail in the engine bay, pull the loom through that little hole behind the shock tower. I recommend cutting 5 wires at a time and taping the looms together. that way you can stagger your cuts and you dont have to worry about searching through 50 wires to find each end of the cut. solder, heatshrink and loom. took me a few hours.

Edit: dont forget to add some type of heat shielding around the loom where the manifold is before you resolder everything together.

this is what i done did

[silviaguy240]

yea im not really trying to splice 50 wires, was looking for the best non cutting method or maybe i'll just relocate it or something. theres no other wires running to it right? i cant remember off the top of my head and its pouring out.

[PoorMans180SX]

Yeahhh, not the type of work I was looking to do. Maybe when I make a custom harness.

I'm going to see if I can flatten out the harness so it doesn't make my fender fit like balls.

If not, out comes the soldering iron I guess.

[landins13]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Yeahhh, not the type of work I was looking to do. Maybe when I make a custom harness.

I'm going to see if I can flatten out the harness so it doesn't make my fender fit like balls.

If not, out comes the soldering iron I guess.

did you remove the plastic loom when you did this? if not then thatd be why the fender sits funny, the plastic wrapping can be taken off and it will help a lot. the wires themselves still should be electrical taped at the very least but the oem plastic shit is a waste. best electrical tape for the job though go to mercedes and buy a couple rolls, theirs is fabric based and holds/looks a lot nicer than the usual vynal or rubber type 3m stuff

[landins13]

Originally Posted by Chase Bays

Never seen that! Interested in seeing it though.

Update, still not finished;

you guys need to make an sr harness ka is garbage anyways

[REVGASM]

Nothing crazy but heres mine so far...i re'did the fpr so the lines look better than whats show in the picture...

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by landins13

did you remove the plastic loom when you did this? if not then thatd be why the fender sits funny, the plastic wrapping can be taken off and it will help a lot. the wires themselves still should be electrical taped at the very least but the oem plastic shit is a waste. best electrical tape for the job though go to mercedes and buy a couple rolls, theirs is fabric based and holds/looks a lot nicer than the usual vynal or rubber type 3m stuff

Yessir I did. I'm thinking about untaping the harness, flattening it out, and using some flat plastic on both sides when taping it back up.

[msanchez]

You guys are gonna spend so much time tucking, then retucking, then fitting your fender, then retaping your loom when you realize it still rubs. just spend a few extra hours and relocate it.
just my 2cents.

[VYKTR]

Great progress Chase. I'm deff. looking forward in seeing the end results.

[Chase Bays]

Originally Posted by landins13

you guys need to make an sr harness ka is garbage anyways

SR20 harness is pending!

[Tae-Hyun]

^Cant wait for that.

Thread full of win.

[ILoveMyRHS13]

Originally Posted by Chase Bays

Never seen that! Interested in seeing it though.

Update, still not finished;

Now THIS is what ChaseBays is all about.

PLEASE make a neat way to run the spark plug wires on the dual cam... 99% of them look fucking terrible.