Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

A leaky radiator would cause steam from the water pump region or was this not directed to my question?

was directed toward you.

you may have developed a hole in your radiator some how.

have you noticed any drips below the car or odd smell of coolant with the hood open?

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by justinbyrant

This hurts my brain, water in the overflow has nothing to do with your water pump leaking

in a proper working coolant system any excess coolant from heat expansion would be pushed into the overflow then drawn from the overflow when everything cools down, however that is in a properly working cooling system which is very rare, most cars have little air leaks the prevent drawing coolant back into the system, the cooling system reaches a level that it doesn't ever lose or draw coolant and it stays fine for years at the same level

if you have steam from the water pump its probably a bad pump leaking out the weap hole in the bottom of the pump, which would prevent the system from drawing coolant back into the system from the overflow because its easier to draw air through the leaking water pump than it is to draw coolant past the cap

Thanks for the help. I mentioned the coolant over flow tank in terms of the car having coolant.
But as you said, the coolant cannot be sucked in if there is a hole/vacuum leak in the system, which makes sense.

YAY!!!! Another thing wrong with this car....lol

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

was directed toward you.

you may have developed a hole in your radiator some how.

have you noticed any drips below the car or odd smell of coolant with the hood open?

This car has so many 'odd' smells, you wouldn't know which is which.....lol

But thanks for your help man. It seems as if I have to get a new set of everything for this car.

[justinbyrant]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

Thanks for the help. I mentioned the coolant over flow tank in terms of the car having coolant.
But as you said, the coolant cannot be sucked in if there is a hole/vacuum leak in the system, which makes sense.

YAY!!!! Another thing wrong with this car....lol

Eh water pumps are easy lol

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by justinbyrant

Eh water pumps are easy lol

agreed... takes about 2 hours if you know what youre doing. most of the time is spent just waiting for the radiator + block to drain. while doing your pump its also a good time to do your thermostat too given you wont have any coolant in the system!

[goomba238]

Does anyone know of a reliable performance shop in Miami, Fl.? Looking to do a KA-T build. Thanks.

[SoundEfx]

I did the thermostat, but didn't do the water pump because it looked newer and I didn't have the tool necessary to remove the clutch.



But I'm going to change it this weekend because of this:



Nothing is ever easy on THIS car.

[Standard]

^you don't need a special tool to remove the clutch, just take the belt off and the 4 (looks like you only have 3 haha) 10mm nuts that hold the clutch on. Easy stuff

[drinxbleach]

I'm quite new here, I just bought a part from a guy on zilvia and I can't leave trader feedback. I get the message saying. Don't have permission to do so. Is there a moderator that I have to pm?

[justinbyrant]

So just finally got my sr swap to start, everything is hooked up, everything is on properly as best i can see however it wont idle, it fires up, revs up to like 1300 then drops down to try to idle, kicks super low at like 400 rpms a few times then dies, however if i snap the throttle about half way and closed real fast it will rev, if indo it a few times it will rev to about 2k and run fairly smooth but it won't maintain it long, my first thought is my maf, any ideas?

[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by justinbyrant

So just finally got my sr swap to start, everything is hooked up, everything is on properly as best i can see however it wont idle, it fires up, revs up to like 1300 then drops down to try to idle, kicks super low at like 400 rpms a few times then dies, however if i snap the throttle about half way and closed real fast it will rev, if indo it a few times it will rev to about 2k and run fairly smooth but it won't maintain it long, my first thought is my maf, any ideas?

Do you have a bov and is it venting to air?

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[justinbyrant]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Do you have a bov and is it venting to air?

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I do and no Its not vented to atmosphere its not even hooked up yet i have the wastegate and bov lines capped to rule out any leaks until I can get it to idle and run right

[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by justinbyrant

I do and no Its not vented to atmosphere its not even hooked up yet i have the wastegate and bov lines capped to rule out any leaks until I can get it to idle and run right

So your pipe has just a flange and nothing on it?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

[justinbyrant]

The pipe has a bov on it but the vacuum line to actuate is is not there i have a cap and zip tie on it, centralizing anything that could leak air is a massive help when initially starting a car especially one that has given me as many problems as this one, to the best of my knowledge i have no vacuum leaks i will be checking with starting fluid tomorrow

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by Standard

^you don't need a special tool to remove the clutch, just take the belt off and the 4 (looks like you only have 3 haha) 10mm nuts that hold the clutch on. Easy stuff

Thanks pimp.

[chaka_flocka]

Recently picked up a 180 and came with these wheels. I was wondering of someone could get me info on them. All they have is a "AMP" stamp. Which from what i know is old school work wheels before they were work.. just wanted some more info on them. [/url]

[JrDarknes]

RB20 still overheating. Keeps getting up to 195.
Changed water pump and thermostat.
Have two isr electrical fans on a Isr dual core radiator and a CX racing intercooler.

I really can't think of what is causing the problem.


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[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

RB20 still overheating. Keeps getting up to 195.
Changed water pump and thermostat.
Have two isr electrical fans on a Isr dual core radiator and a CX racing intercooler.

I really can't think of what is causing the problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If all of those things are working properly, get another gauge and verify that the car is really getting hot, sometimes cheap gauges can read like shit, and aren't as exact. when it's at running temp, squeeze both radiator hoses and make sure they're full and flowing.

Also if when you changed all that stuff, and didn't bleed it, you need to do so. Run it with the radiator cap off for a bit, so any air can bleed out.

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by chaka_flocka

Recently picked up a 180 and came with these wheels. I was wondering of someone could get me info on them. All they have is a "AMP" stamp. Which from what i know is old school work wheels before they were work.. just wanted some more info on them. [/url]

there is an "Identify this" thread that you can go to, It might be more helpful to post it there

[JrDarknes]

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

If all of those things are working properly, get another gauge and verify that the car is really getting hot, sometimes cheap gauges can read like shit, and aren't as exact. when it's at running temp, squeeze both radiator hoses and make sure they're full and flowing.



Also if when you changed all that stuff, and didn't bleed it, you need to do so. Run it with the radiator cap off for a bit, so any air can bleed out.

Yea it's a eBay gauge, guess il save up for a defi. Yea I bled it but I will check again.


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[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

Yea it's a eBay gauge, guess il save up for a defi. Yea I bled it but I will check again.


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those are good, you could use a autometer gauge as well if you want to check immediately.you can get em at the autoparts store. they are of fair quality.

[R3b]

Originally Posted by chaka_flocka

Recently picked up a 180 and came with these wheels. I was wondering of someone could get me info on them. All they have is a "AMP" stamp. Which from what i know is old school work wheels before they were work.. just wanted some more info on them. [/url]

off topic but havent you had this for couple months? Wasnt it a buddies of yours and it never end up being selling?

[theStig880]

Hopefully someone can chime in and let me know I'm being over concerned but I noticed a sound coming from my SR20 when I started it today. The sound seems to be coming from the head and the best I can describe it is a light, metallic ping. It seemed to be rotationally related but inconsistent. When I removed the oil cap whilst the engine was running the sound seemed to get louder which leads me to believe it was in the head.

Prior to starting the car I had removed the turbo to install all new lines and the car had been sitting without starting for a little under a year. When I started it, I added some more oil and started the car with out the fuel pump fuse to build oil pressure. It never had any issues before this. What are some possible issues it could be and is it something I should be concerned over?

[justinbyrant]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

RB20 still overheating. Keeps getting up to 195.
Changed water pump and thermostat.
Have two isr electrical fans on a Isr dual core radiator and a CX racing intercooler.

I really can't think of what is causing the problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

195 isn't overheating, 210 or higher is overheating your thermostat should open at about 180, 180-200 is normal especially on a turbo car

[TheVinylKingz]

Originally Posted by TheVinylKingz View Post
I'm new to Zilvia and I think I can't post new threads due to being a New-bee. Anyways, can anyone help me determine the size of the hole and location of the rear wiper please? I would prefer measurements please.

I have a Base model 240sx hatch without a wiper blade. From research Base model 240sx came with no rear wiper blade.

[imbored205]

Questions regarding Z32 brake conversion on a 95 S14 SE

I can do the fronts fine but have questions on the rear.


Since I have a 5lug S14 SE, I can use my stock hubs and dont have to change them out to z32 hubs corrects?

All I need to buy for a complete rear setup are
Z32 Calipers/pads/rotors
R33 ebrake cable
Z32 NA ebrake assembly


For the ebrake assembly, does it have to be from an NA Z32 or can it also be from a TT Z32?

[derass]

Either of the Z32 ebrake assemblies will work. Only difference is the type of anchor bolt (and the corresponding hub). The thicker one is ideal but the skinneier one just needs to be spaced out. Pretty sure Skyline ebrake assemblies will also work.

[imbored205]

Originally Posted by derass

Either of the Z32 ebrake assemblies will work. Only difference is the type of anchor bolt (and the corresponding hub). The thicker one is ideal but the skinneier one just needs to be spaced out. Pretty sure Skyline ebrake assemblies will also work.

So I can buy any z32 ebrake assembly and slap it on my stock hubs? If the assembly comes with the skinnier bolts, I'll just put some washers on it.

I thought this is how I could do it but just wanted to make sure before I buy.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by imbored205

So I can buy any z32 ebrake assembly and slap it on my stock hubs? If the assembly comes with the skinnier bolts, I'll just put some washers on it.

I thought this is how I could do it but just wanted to make sure before I buy.

That's exactly what I did on mine. Has two big washers to space it out properly. Using R33 cables also.

[Alex_Zenki]

Doing ball joints in my rlca. I have an s14 for reference btw. I searched for what I would consider to be all over and got the information I thought I needed to do this. Went to advance and picked up b13 Sentra ball joints. However, I pressed the rears out and measured to find out the b13 Sentra ball joints are a little under 2mm thinner Han the stock. So there's play when I set it in position in the rlca. What can I do. Is there a way to still use these or should I return and try a different ball joint. I'm pretty sure I had purchased the right ones especially since the Internet said my s14 rears were 38mm not 41mm and change. Thanks