My S14 Drift Car Build - LS1 content inside

[ballinnmiami240sx]

suspension is all sorted out.
Cage is done.

Next will be the install of the engine with the sikky amazing kit. It's amazing!!!! Stephen "OP" will probably be picking up the car this weekend from my house to take it back to his to install the engine.

[95KA-Turbo]

Haha, I guess it could magically be done if I had more money.

I am not sure if anyone saw it on here but I am putting anyone's name on my car who donates 10 dollars or more to my paypal account . So far I've only had two people do it, and they're from my local forum .

[Royal_T]

simple amazing, quick question. What are your plans for the motor? Target HP?What type of Cams? And why the truck heads? Since I plan to do the same with my Z33 just wanted to see what you had in mind.

[95KA-Turbo]

All of my decisions so far have been solely based on cost. My original plan was truck heads (cheap and higher compression), stock bottom end with new main/rod bearings, ARP rod bolts, stock intake manifold, and 224/224 cam. I recently picked up a LS6 intake manifold/injectors/fuel rail for a price I couldn't pass up so now I am thinking LS6 intake and cam will be good - and save money.

HP wise I am going to be happy with whatever I get. I am going from 250whp so I don't want to jump up to a 400whp car. I figure it'll make something between 320-360whp.

My motor parts are as follows right now:
-97 LS1 short block w/ brand new clevite main/rod bearings and ARP rod bolts
-Truck heads
-Trick Flow 7.4 hardened push rods
-Dual valve springs/retainers
-Some sort of valves -- I got them from a friend with the springs/pushrods
-LS4 oil pump
-Rebuilt T56 transmission

I still need:
-Head gaskets
-Head bolts
-A few other random gaskets/seals
-Clutch/Flywheel
-LS6 valley cover conversion

I am sure I am leaving some stuff out. I am picking up a wiring harness/ecu tomorrow. I still have a good chunk of change left to spend - so I've been taking it easy on spending and trying to sell some stuff so I can order everything. I get the rest of my money from the SR in January so I'll have everything ordered by then for sure.

[franklin93zx]

Read it, and now waiting for more, Subsribed. if you pull of that lock on your front wheels that would be insane! What are you going to do for the rubbing issue though

[95KA-Turbo]

I am going to have to run spacers and probably a 235/40 or a 245/35 - the 235 will more then likely be MUCH cheaper. I am hoping I can get away with a 15mm spacer so I can still get some larger lips and run 10.5s up front. If I have to run 25mm spacers I'll be stuck with the 10 up front....which is plenty I just wanted to rebuild them with wider lips all around.

[Royal_T]

Thanks a lot for the info on the engine build, looks to be a fine build. Are you going to install a Accusump for the oil lost you might have on the LS. I heard it is a good thing to add one.

[franklin93zx]

I think a decent stretch will do the trick only looks to be a few mm off so a 235 seems as it should be no worries with that, and you can still keep your offset! which is the most important part haha

[mothon]

Originally Posted by Royal_T

Thanks a lot for the info on the engine build, looks to be a fine build. Are you going to install a Accusump for the oil lost you might have on the LS. I heard it is a good thing to add one.

He shouldn't have to run an accusump since he is using the sikky oil pan. Im pretty sure most of the oiling problems on lsx motors are from the design of the factory oil pan.

[ballinnmiami240sx]

you pretty hit it on the head. The accusump is not a must have. Proper baffeling on the oil pan is more important.

[95KA-Turbo]

Yeah, the Sikky pan is crazy. If you take it and place it on the subframe it is directly level with the it - as in it does not hang below it. So when it is actually attached to the motor it will sit above the frame. I am very happy about this .

I'll post lots of engine pictures when I tackle that. I will be doing a write up on their install kit.

[VAs13]

makes me want to put an ls1 in the s15. god i hate looking @ this build, makes me very jealous

[95KA-Turbo]

Chris Ive wanted to do a LS1 S15 for a long time. Please make the world hate you!

[ballinnmiami240sx]

Do it!!!!!!! or trade me the s15 for my FD and let me DO IT!!!!!

[Royal_T]

Okay that sounds pretty good that the Sikky pan was made proper like. If you don't mind me asking how much was every thing from Sikky kit, with pan, driveshaft ect...? you can pm me if you want..

[VAs13]

i am going to start looking into it.

can you point me in the right direction?

and
whats the deal w keeping heat and ac and going ls1?

[95KA-Turbo]

With AC you're on your own with custom lines....shouldn't be too hard I've got some friends that TIG extremely well, they made me custom lines for my SR but I never used them because of my FMIC set up. Heat is just a matter of hooking up some hoses to your heater core.

Royal-T I'll PM you when I get off work later on tonight.

[Royal_T]

Thanks bro really appreciate that. Now we need more pics...lol

[ballinnmiami240sx]

Originally Posted by VAs13

i am going to start looking into it.

can you point me in the right direction?

and
whats the deal w keeping heat and ac and going ls1?

Ill ditto what stephen said. I dont know if the s15 subframe is the same, but Im sure sikky would work with you for an s15 application. Email them and they will get back to you asap. If you need anything modded hit me up.

[RurouniMidnight]

Really nice build man keep it up, im in the process of same stuff on my S14 tubs are done engine bay is painted, subframe risers in and about to start on cage and knuckles, goodluck on the motor stuff also.

[VAs13]

Originally Posted by ballinnmiami240sx

Ill ditto what stephen said. I dont know if the s15 subframe is the same, but Im sure sikky would work with you for an s15 application. Email them and they will get back to you asap. If you need anything modded hit me up.

i shall give them a call tomorrow, can't seem to get their email thing to work under the contact us thing.

[bboyoracle]

Not sure if its already been stated, but when are you looking to have all this done by Stephen? Looking forward to seeing it in person. All the fab work looks sick!

[95KA-Turbo]

If I had 1500 bucks to dump into it right now I could be done in a few weeks. It is probably going to be more like a month/month and a half.

S15 front suspension should be exactly the same in the front. I know the rear subframe is different but I don't see how the front could be any different.

[VAs13]

all i can think about is how retarded an ls1 s15 would be.

cant wait to see the car in person knoop, and danny if i need something i will def. be in touch.

[Marcus]

Originally Posted by VAs13

all i can think about is how retarded an ls1 s15 would be.

cant wait to see the car in person knoop, and danny if i need something i will def. be in touch.

yes that would be retarded.


95KA-Turbo saw your car on pbm forum. making good progress!

[Spring Break '92]

Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo

If I had 1500 bucks to dump into it right now I could be done in a few weeks. It is probably going to be more like a month/month and a half.

S15 front suspension should be exactly the same in the front. I know the rear subframe is different but I don't see how the front could be any different.

Give me a call next week if you do infact get the car to start your engine swap. I'll be off Tuesday through Sunday for the holidays if you need a hand.

[vaughn4]

Originally Posted by ballinnmiami240sx

We still need to mod the tierod pick up. We plan to use another spherical bearing with a bolt to lower the tierod parallel to the lower control arm.

Why do you want the tie rods to run parallel with the lca? Is this just so that the lca with act as a steering stop? Maybe you can answer this... how many degrees is too much??? I mean there has to be a point at which the rack wont extend far enough of it actually extends past a radius when you just cant turn the wheel back. For instance, if you go into a corner, throw the wheel to what you think is full lock, and the outter tie rods go too far. When you counter the steering wheel locks cause your outer tie rods are trying to rotate into the lca instead of coming off the lca.

Second idea.. are you going to run a lower offset wheel to keep the tire off the lower frame rail? At this much angle wont the wheel just end up riding on the tension rod when you get the wheel off the frame rail?

Great work on the car so far.. Just thought i would brain storm with you..

Jesse

EDIT: just read you said you were going to run spacers in the front..

[95KA-Turbo]

The tie rods need to be moved down parallel with the LCA to correct for bump steer. The knuckle has been modded, so the majority of the extra angle is achieved that way. The notch in the control arm is just to allow a little more. When you modify the knuckle you achieve more lock in less turns, so the rack is not harmed/effected. Also, there will be a new stopper welded on to keep the knuckle from turning too far - the tie rod end will not just slam into the lca over and over.

[vaughn4]

Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo

The tie rods need to be moved down parallel with the LCA to correct for bump steer. The knuckle has been modded, so the majority of the extra angle is achieved that way. The notch in the control arm is just to allow a little more. When you modify the knuckle you achieve more lock in less turns, so the rack is not harmed/effected. Also, there will be a new stopper welded on to keep the knuckle from turning too far - the tie rod end will not just slam into the lca over and over.

I know how they work... I have modded knuckles myself. I was just curious when too much angle would be a problem. you are going to have the bumpstop actually stop the knuckle?? Going to weld a tab on the lca to limit the knuckle?

[95KA-Turbo]

Yes, the bump stop will stop the knuckle itself, like the factory one.


This much angle works, so I don't see how you could really get more then this: