Project Lilia Uber ("BUILD THREAD")

[xharobikeslifex]

I decided to bring my build thread to Zilvia, you've might have seen this build either on NicoClub or KCDA-Online. Sorry for the massive amount of pictures, but here is the project starting from Fri Jan 09, 2009 to Present!

whats up people my name is <^>John<^>None<^>Ponce<^> and this is...
PROJECT LILIA
i recently owned a black 240sx that i used as a temporary shell due to the amount of rust. Now i just recently purchased a 1990 Nissan 240sx w/ a RHD conversion. i bought it off of craigslist in california for like $800 never actually saw it in person but made my best judgement w/ the pics he had sent me.
These are old pics he showed me:





These were recent pics:



ya he painted it satan which is cool 4 now....
And this is were the Build Begins!
First before i like to start this dank build i like to take before pics of the entire vehicle












Now its time to START! finally ugh
I started to tear down the interior. I pretty much am going to completely strip it to start removing the sound deading which i have never done! but luckily i had heard that dry ice helps break it down so it won't be to bad right?

Tools:
10, 12, 14mm socket
3/8 ratchet w/ extension
needle nose
pliers
flat/star head screwdriver

I started by removing the seats and just went from there...





After half of it was stripped i started to lay trash bags down to prepare 4 DRY ICE!



thats it 4 today

[xharobikeslifex]

so i decided to remove the dash today and low and behold i found a rats nest these pics wont do justice in what i see but heres an idea in what it looks like







everything seems to be either butt spliced or zip tied together... crap.

[xharobikeslifex]

Sorry for the delay in updates but some things came up my dog recently had to go threw surgery, to sum things up he had a herniated disc and he's recovering just great just a FYI the surgery costed $3100 and it was worth every penny i mean he's my baby

so anyways to continue in were i last stopped i currently took a break on taking out the sound deading such a PITA! so i decided to remove the whole front end

Started with the fenders


removed left fender

removed front bumper

then the right fender


now for the lights started with the right

and lastly the left front end completely off yo


i even managed to take off the hatch woot woot score! pretty much my intentions are this 1. strip entire vehicle 2. remove sound deadning 3. fix and repair 4. prep it 4 paint!

[xharobikeslifex]

okay so i started to go back in the car to remove the sound deadening and i just couldn't keep my eyes off this hidous harness it makes everything look like a train wreck so i decided to remove it
but first i took many pics of the mess just in case i need it later on 4 reference



Notice in this pic u can clearly see stuff being hold by zip ties ya maybe my bumper but nty on the rhd conversion





After i unplugged, unbolted, and dyked everything i managed to put all the mess off to the side and made my life alot easier in removing the sound deadening here you can see that i used the heat gun to get all the sound deadening off after getting majority of it off with dry ice


After going to the local parts store i picked up some adhesive remover to get all that gunk off started on the what is now the passenger side

heres a Before pic

After pic

ah so much better working on getting the whole inside like this

[xharobikeslifex]

being exhausted from cleaning up the junk left from heat gunning the sound deadening i moved to the front of the car in taking out the engine. now im going to be brief on this because there is so much info in removing and installing a ka but here we go!

I first removed the battery

then the intake system aka "whale penis" haha i have to much fun with the camera


removed the radiator hoses then the fan connected to the engine and pulled the radiator and fan shroud as 1 combo

completely took the power steering system off

blocked my wheels in the rear

jacked the front

wooo im exhausted..... ok

removed the downpipe cat and catback exhaust as one combo

then the drive shaft and me trying to curl one haha ahh the aluminum one will be much easier to curl im not that strong
also unbolted the tranny mount bracket

while i was down there i got the lower engine harness, slave cylinder, and that tranny gear speed thing i forgot what its called but hey it's removed!

went back on top and removed the upper engine harness, gear shifter, and unbolted the 2 engine mounts
]
i know probably not a good idea to put chains around the power steering pump but i did it anyways out of eager to get this thing out and about so i started to put the chains on the p/s pump to hoist it out of there until...


there was like no where 4 me to wrap this other side on so i had to remove the heat shield connected to the exhaust manifold but before i could do that i had to remove this emissions junk

ahh much better

now its time to puller out right MEOW!



Note: i have a floor jack in front of the car to raise and lower the front as needed this helped me more to have a floor jack here then on the tranny like what most people do.

oh ya its getting closer!

CLOSER!

kiss it good bye




and its OUT!


now dropping in the KAT!


little more tweaks and she'll be set in there snug

Done! freshly rebuilt KAT installed haha to bad a sr is gonna be going in this bad boy!

[xharobikeslifex]

Now that the engine is removed its time to remove pretty much everything from the engine bay so it can be prepped 4 paint i started by removing the charcoal canister

this is not nessary to remove when painting the engine bay but since me not wanting to have a/c i started to removed the condensor first started by loosening the lines i had to use a 15/16 wrench! on those suckers


removed the connectors to the fans

then yanked out the condensor!

went up top and took off the master cylinder

does anyone notice something wrong in this pic?

clearly whoever did this rhd conversion must of wanted the brake booster 1 inch away from the firewall awww sigh


in this pic you can see that they diffinitely bent the brake lines from lhd to rhd! jeeeze talk about epic fail and as i explore more on this rhd conversion it only seems to just get worse and worse...

wanting to know what the firewall looked liked i went inside the car and decided to completely remove the brake, gas, and clutch pedal. Started by removing the clutch pedal and then by removing the brake pedal to take off the brake booster and only to find something dreadful...


wtf is this?

is that bolts being used as WASHERS!!!!

unbelieveable

devasted by what i just witnessed i removed the ecu and engine wiring harness first by removing the harness from the ecu

snaked out the harness

went to the front of the car to loosen a bolt to remove the whole steering wheel assembly and saw that they diffinitely didnt take there time to cut the holes properly they could of at least put some rubber grommets around there hackerd cutting skills

and then went inside and removed the 2! bolts that was holding it to the firewall and removed the steering assembly

went over to the gas pedal and started to wonder were they bolted this suckah
Notice: the holes on the firewall to the left

well 2 bolts were in the engine bay haha

and the other 2 were in the wheel well. i think im going to cry ooooooh and did i ever mention the tools needed to remove the bolts to the gas, clutch, and brake pedal 10mm nope 12mm nope guess again 14mm? no just simply use your HANDSSSSS yes all of these bolts were all hand tightened!

decided to remove the clutch line from the clutch cylinder all the way to the slave

all i did was unbolt this 10mm bolts and removed it

i wanted this high pressure p/s line off so i can unbolt this engine mount but of course as fate has it i was starting to strip it.


so after some hours of trying to tinker with it spraying it with pb blaster and seeing if it will loosen i gave up got some towels and handed my roomate dillon some vise grips and asked him to loosen this and within 2 minutes it was off! yes a sigh of relief


took off the motor mount with a 14mm rachet wrench

i then went to the local parts store got some engine degreaser and cleaned her up a lil bit


this concludes my day

[xharobikeslifex]

Today i managed to get a few things out of the way i started by jacking up the rear of the vehicle so i can remove the differential.
Here i jacked it up on the diff and raised the rear

Then placed jack stands

make sure to block the front wheels

i thought it was going to be an easy task in removing the rear wheels but sadly my impact gun wouldn't loosen them so i had to bring out some LEVERAGE

well good thing i plan to go five lug

once the wheels are off remove the cotter pin with a pair of handy dandy needle nose pliers

remove the king shaped metal piece with your hand (I forgot the name)

get a 36mm socket and remove it with an impact gun

get under the vehicle and get a 3/8 ext and a 12mm socket and a 12mm wrench and remove the axle bolts connecting to the differential

same goes for the other side except i had to use a longer ext

let down on the e-brake

move BOTH axles (since its not lsd) so that you can get to the other bolts

pull up on the e-brake and remove the rest of the bolts

get a 1/2 rachet with a 17mm socket and remove the bottom 2 bolts this is located on the back

then i had to use a 3/8 rachet with a 17mm socket for the 2 top bolts

make sure you have a jack ready underneath the diff

remove the 2 bolts located right near the front of the diff (driveshaft side) with a 17mm socket and impact wrench

lower the jack a little to allow clearance to remove both the axles i used a pry bar to remove it out and away from the diff

if axles are being stubborn tap at it if needed (or pry it out)

once axles are out carefully lower the jack until Diff is out!

exhausted from taking out the diff i was just looking at the sohc and noticed that on the heater hoses they used what seems to look like a sprinkler connector and a prestone cap blocking it off jeeze

decided to remove the taillights it pretty self explanatory but disconnect all 6 connectors

3 on one side 3 on the other

and remove all the 8mm bolts

i had to pry mine off due to some sealer still stuck on

[Black240Ct]

good to see it being cleaned up.. that rhd 'conversion' is pretty haggard

[xharobikeslifex]

soo after selling quite a few things and saving my ass off i managed to finally come up with the money to buy my front clip!?! woot woot score 1 for the mexican. I went threw this site http://www.jrautoparts.com/index.html to buy my clip $2800 shipped to my front door (well not literally to the door) i first had to make a deposit of $500 then he showed me pics and a vid of the clip ill be receiving if i didnt like that one then he would take other pics of a different clip but judging from the pics he sent me with the first one i didnt need to do that. once uve decided which one u want u then pay the rest and then they ship it

ahhhh sooo freaking clean! cant wait for it to arrive heres VIDEO plus PICS of it!!!!




YouTube - sr front clip

[theboy]

Originally Posted by xharobikeslifex

Tools:
10, 12, 14 inch socket

where exatly do you use sockets this huge on an s-chassis?

[xharobikeslifex]

Ok so sorry guys for the lack of updates but ever since i got the clip i couldn't help my self to stop working on it but here is a update i had gotten the clip like a month or so ago haha and have had it, it's absolutely flawless in my eyes
heres pics of it!?!?!





It came with keys which i was really suprized i didn't think they would send that

it also came with a old school turbo timer sweet!

i got my battery out just to c if not only the turbo timer works but everything else including the engine "which btw did start till there was no more gas going to the engine"



heres some more random shots


this came with a digital gauge cluster with HUD "that does work" and the dash which im very suprized is not cracked woot woot

what? a jdm bag?

heres the side mount and some stuff ill be needing to convert it to RHD



oh and how can i forget the main thing the ENGINE!



very impressed to receive this all for $2800 Shipped

[punxva]

Originally Posted by theboy

where exatly do you use sockets this huge on an s-chassis?

haha i was wondering the same thing.

The build is looking good, the clip looks really clean and you def need a rhd harness for this thing, don't trust that bs slapped together harness it will only cause you problems in the long run

[xharobikeslifex]

Removing the SR (not defined)
First removed battery
2nd drain Coolant + Oil

3rd Disconnect hot pipe from turbo *note mark and label every hose you disconnect

4th remove intercooler cold pipe

5th remove radiator + fan shroud

6th remove engine harness most of these pics are 4 my reference





7th disconnect lower harness i chose to leave the harness on the engine when i pulled it


8th remove both motor mount nuts

9th remove downpipe, place a jack under the tranny and remove the cross member+tranny mount then lower the jack slightly and remove the shifter

10th position the jack as needed to finally pull the engine out

11th double and make sure stuff is not hung up and slowly lift and puller out



12th finally get a engine stand and grab a buddy to hump the living shit out of your pulled engine



Oh btw how i managed to get the clip off the ground was i put 2 wheels in the front and 2 jack stands in the rear

[xharobikeslifex]

Originally Posted by Black240Ct

good to see it being cleaned up.. that rhd 'conversion' is pretty haggard

Ya I know tell me about it

[xharobikeslifex]

Originally Posted by theboy

where exatly do you use sockets this huge on an s-chassis?

10mm and 12mm is actually really common, and I used a 14mm to remove the seats.

[punxva]

he was referring to you saying 10, 12, and 14 inch

[Laernu]

nice build! sucks about the harness issue.. cant wait to see this thing running

[xharobikeslifex]

Originally Posted by punxva

haha i was wondering the same thing.

The build is looking good, the clip looks really clean and you def need a rhd harness for this thing, don't trust that bs slapped together harness it will only cause you problems in the long run

Ya im in no way shape or form reusing that old harness talk about a fire hazard! I will obviously use the sr20det engine harness and actually I managed to track down a complete uncut rhd chassis harness from taillights to headlights.

[xharobikeslifex]

Originally Posted by punxva

he was referring to you saying 10, 12, and 14 inch

ahhhh gotcha typo error my bad good looking out I posted this on nico and a local forum and noone ever caught that haha editing it asap

[xharobikeslifex]

ok so minor update started tearing apart the 180sx dash and managed to get everything out so i can start drilling out the spotwelds for the firewall removal ive been working on the spotwelds on my 240sx / working on some interior will have pics on that shortly. these pics are mainly for my reference only i know ill need to double look this and see where everything is plugged into cause im a noob when it comes to memorization
pics :|



ok so started off with the gauge cluster then just went crazy with the screw driver and rachet and started unscrewing!?



















Ok I know I know it's not considered a update but I've been working alot lately trying to get me some parts for this beast since I'm working on interior first
What I got ordered mmmm tasty!
circuit sports hub
circuit sports quick release
and a greddy rear strut bar for now
working on getting me a steering wheel but am very very frusterated maybe u the viewers can help me out on a predicament im having. breath in breath out sigh..... IM HATING NARDI RIGHT MEOW and ill explain u see i want a Nardi Deep Corn steering wheel
Specs:
Nardi Deep Corn
330mm
leather w/ red stitching
But I dispise red stitching and it seems to me that nardi makers love it but some of them do come with white or black stitch but not on all models i simply want
Nardi Deep Corn
340-350mm
suede w/ black stitching and the deep corn must have those rivits like on the pic some deep corn are just smooth if u know what I mean?
I've tried at:
phase 2
weaksauceparts.com
passwordjdm
pretty much googled it and came with nothing but w/ red stitchings to the face arg help me

[xharobikeslifex]

Okay since I'm not so sure who exactly will be welding in my firewall im going to leave that aside for now until I figure something out. But for those of you who want to know what my engine bay currently looks like now here's some pics...



So in the mean time I've decided to thoroughly clean the sr20det engine/transmission heres the supplies I will be using:

Heres the project:

First remove the A/C compressor

Next take off the P/S pump

Then take off the motor mount bracket. since I have previously removed the the exhaust manifold and turbo, you will have to do the same.

move over to the intake side and take out the alternator and bracket

look underneath the intake manifold and remove the knock sensor


unbolt the bracket that supports the intake manifold to the block


And finally disconnect everything that is attached to the block that's connected to the intake manifold such as: lines, brackets, metal tubes, sensors, and coil pack plugs.




once the intake manifold is removed plug the intake holes with some towls, and continue removing things that you don't want to get painted such as lines and what not.


in the end your aiming to have your block completely stripped like so

[xharobikeslifex]

FIREWALL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION!
Okay after several months of research, blood, sweat, and tears. I finally managed to get the firewall removed. First things first if you plan on tackling this project please do your research first and don’t have a mind set like me thinking it was going to be a weekend deal.
Tools I used to remove the firewall:
-2x Hammers one small one large (you only really need the large one)
-Reciprocating saw (I used this to make it easier for me to remove both firewalls using different methods)
-Drill
-2x Spot weld drill bits as you can see in the pic, (I used one that looks like a normal drill bit, which cuts threw the spot weld, and one that is an odd looking drill bit that cuts around the spot weld. I used both a combination and in the end the odd looking drill bit seemed to be most effective.)
-Wood and Chisel set (used to separate the firewall once the spot welds are removed)
-Air Hammer (Optional but I “STRONGLY” recommend getting it because there will be spot welds that you drilled out but not all the way)
-Drop light
-Set of steel braided sanding wheels (used to locate the spot welds)
-And lastly 6x 30 packs of budlight (Optional)



REMOVING THE FIREWALL ON THE "CLIP"
hokay so once you have taken off the side plates you will discover a few more spot welds, I was confused for quite a while on where these spot welds are so I took pictures so that other people can use me as a reference.


Take note: of the spot welds on the side and bottom (for the side spot welds it was kind of a PITA to get too with a bit so do the best you can in removing it with a spot weld bit and loosen it up with an air hammer but be careful using the air hammer it will tear shit up)

inside shot of the bottom spot welds


You will discover more spot welds on top drill them out and air hammer it loose

As you can see in this picture I had to take off the bracket on top, but in the bottom corner wedge. I needed to remove some spot welds that were hard to get...

Heres a close up of what i'm talking about, I managed to remove the spot welds but it was still strongly secure. So i left it at that and proceeded to other areas.



Me and my buddie Wesly Maurer flipped over the clip and removed spots welds and chiseled the firewall loose

While in the mean time my friend Shelby was helping out removing the fabric on my door panels. (I think she might of broken a nail) God I love friends lol

Wesly managed to push the two sides down to see what was needed for this firewall to come out

After some thinking I decided to cut the green circled area with a reciprocating saw and than remove the bracket when the firewall was out

Firewall removed




Heres some reference pics in where all the spot welds are located. "Note" in the last picture you can see that we bent the hell out of the clip so that the fire wall would just slide out easier. Keep this in mind when removing a firewall from the "clip" do whatever you want to the clip to make it easier to get the firewall out, but try not to ruin your firewall in the process.

[xharobikeslifex]

REMOVING THE FIREWALL ON THE "SHELL"

Where as the firewall on the "shell" do whatever you want to the firewall to make it easier to take out, but try not to damage your shell in the process. Like in this pick my buddie Ryan Berry (whats_next) is cutting the firewall down the middle to make it easier to take out. As you will see me Ryan Berry and Mitch Miller are just going to be taking the firewall out chunks at a time

Now when removing the firewall on the "shell" you need to remove this bracket where as in the "clip" we just cut that shit off


Like so...



Pretty much the process is the same for removing it on the "clip" drill inside the car and chisel underneath the car.
and with enough tugging and pulling it will eventually be out.

Oh yea and don't forget to give a friendly goodbye to your old firewall.
TEST FITTING FIREWALL

Louis Mcconell (I think it fits)

Looks like a captain morgan ad I once saw haha
WElDING THE FIREWALL

Well this is the bad sucker that welded my firewall in place im not so sure on what brand or type of welder this is but if you really want to know I can ask. I was at work when most of the test fitting happened but as you will see from the pictures things seemed to line up quite well with some clamping, man handling, tack welding, and hammering. From Louis and Ryan



Double check and make sure things are fitted into place haha and start WELDING!










Ryan Berry Everyone! The welds turned out great everything went according to plan.








Ryan even managed to swap out the vin number which I was most greatful for just needs a little bondo, sanding, and paint and it wont even be noticable. I really got to say thanks to all the people that helped me Dillon, Wesly, Ryan, John, Mitch, Louis, and K00laid from nico forums. I really couldn't of done it without your help and support.
If I had to do this all over again I would of just cut the firewall and had someone weld it. Drilling out the spot welds is such a PITA and really not worth the time. But I'm glad it's in and over worth now I can really start focusing this build on other areas either than the firewall thank GOD! (sigh of relief)

[xharobikeslifex]

I just got done cleaning and painting the engine/tranny I first used some cheap engine degreaser and power washed the shit out of it and then brought it back inside the garage to detail it with my little scrubby




I then covered everything I didnt want to get painted. Oh and a word of advice don't use shipping tape to tape things up like I did you will get runs when you spray on it ya I know I wasn't thinking.



Finally then Sprayed it with high heat engine enamel i think i used silver from dupon paint. I liked the way it came out I mean it's okay for now until I plan on rebuilding it. :wink:

[xharobikeslifex]

Removed the intake manifold from the intake collector and the fuel rails/lines

Power washed, scrubbed, and tapped off the intake parts I wanted to get painted

I decided to throw in my exhaust manifold and get it painted at the same time

and of course I finally sprayed them. If any of you are curious I first spray one heavy coat then wait 10-15 minutes then spray on one light coat and let it sit for 4 to 5 hours at approximately 70-75 degrees "btw I have 2x space heaters in my garage because it's cold out "

[xharobikeslifex]

Thanks guys for the kind replies. If you havn't noticed i'm kind of a clean freak haha.
Today I pulled off the heater hose brackets to wash and paint them.



I sprayed them with high heat aluminum and also cleaned and sprayed my alternator brackets with high heat semi gloss black while I was at it.

I impacted both my intake and exhaust side motor mounts with a 14mm deep socket


I decided to replace both my ecu temperature sensor and dash gauge temperature sensor

I used a 19mm and a 12mm deep socket to remove both of them

Heres a comparison of old vs new mine are not that bad at all... oh well haha

It's not necessary to put teflon tape, but I chose to do it just to be on the safe side. tighten and your done


I replaced all of these clamps because these ones are lame and dumb

And instead I used these clamps shown in the pictures, I decided to also reuse my heater hoses they didn't seem to be that bad in shape, so I cleaned it in hot soapy water.


And reinstalled it back onto the block. I didn't have to reroute them since this will be a RHD car


When the intake assembly is out be sure to replace all the necessary gaskets such as...
Idler air control valve gasket

Throttle body gasket

Intake collector gasket

And lastly the intake manifold gasket "note" the intake manifold and collector gasket goes on only one way, so you don't have to worry about which side you have to put it on.

Also please replace all your fuel lines the last thing you want for your engine is a fire, so don't over look these, I got 2 feet of 5/16" thick fuel lines that should cover all of them.

I thought I had pictures of me tightenting the whole intake assembly to the block, but I guess I didn't anyways I used a 12mm with a 3/8 extension to tighten everything, I cross hand tightened everything on the intake side where as the exhaust side i'm going to hit the fsm for torque specs.
Make sure you install your intake brackets one here located at the bottom of your intake collector, I impacted it back on with a 12mm socket

Don't forget about this one I almost did it's located right above the throttle body, I used a combo of a ratchet and wrench to tighten 12mm btw


Heres a pic of where some of the hoses connect to on the "IACV" and the vaccum booster line. Once again this will be a "RHD car" so the line needs to be pointing right if your looking at it in the back of the engine. Ignore the IACV sensor those I mounted in the wrong location it actually needs to be bolted to the top of intake manifold

In this pic you can kind of see where both the other lines need to be connected to if someone wants some better close up pictures just let me know, I actually just remember where everything went.

I replaced the oem fuel pressure regulator with a nismo fpr

I bolted on my alternator brackets I used a 14mm with a 3/8 extension here.

And a 12mm socket here.

Thats pretty much where I stopped today more updates soon once I receive my next order of goodies!!
Oh I also forgot I ran into a problem with the p/s pump the DOHC KA p/s pump wont bolt onto the SR p/s bracket, I think it's because my bracket and pump on my sr was a HICAS If anyone has a non HICAS SR p/s bracket let me know i'm in the market to buy one. The one I have is too small...

[bllabong89]

Looking good man. That engine is freakishly clean.

[xharobikeslifex]

I cleaned and painted the alternator and p/s pump

Also the p/s brackets and some misc pieces

Heres the exhaust manifold gasket I purchased

Part number for exhaust manifold gasket

Before you install the exhaust manifold make sure to grab some anti-seize and put a little bit on the tip of every thread


As you screw on the bolt the anti-seize will spread with the bolt if that makes any sense lol

Finally torque all the bolts to factory spec 27-35 ft lbs, I kept on tightening in a criss cross fashion 1/2 a turn until it was all tighten within spec. Tools needed 3/8 rachet/extension 14mm socket and a 14mm swivel socket "for two of the bolts" I used a 1/2 torque wrench with a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor to tighten the bolts down.

I was curious if I was really off on the intake side since I didnt torque that side. long story short I was wayyy off so I pretty much went to the intake side and tightened everything down to factory spec. IACV 6.2-8 ft lbs, intake collector and manifold 13-15 ft lbs, rail cap 2.2-2.8 ft lbs, fuel rail 15-20 ft lbs. Better do it right the first time

Bolt on some misc brackets..


I caught an error this ground is suppose to be to the top right were there is no bolt in the picture not like it really matters, but I like to keep it oem yaaa digg

I threw on my alternator and tightened it


Heres a pic on how the alternator tesioner should hook up like

And a picture of the alternator brackets

Bolted back the brackets to the p/s pump
[img]

Cleaned and painted some turbo stuff. Yaaaaa

And that pretty much ends it for today Sorry so far its been boring stuff for the most part, but pretty soon I promise you will start to see this car transform from rags to riches :P

[xharobikeslifex]

Originally Posted by bllabong89

Looking good man. That engine is freakishly clean.

haha you have no idea wait until i finish transferring all the posts up from the other forums

[xharobikeslifex]

I got some goodies in today

Removed the transmission drain plug with a 1/2 rachet

Replaced it with a magnetic "moon face" drain plug with a 19mm socket


The HKS Shift return spring kit, I've yet to see anyone install this on their car.

first remove the factory 27mm caps on both sides

OEM vs HKS

With the HKS return spring kit, I went the route of using the Harder spring meaning there was an option to use the softer spring for shifter feel. Awww soo pretty...

I had my old Nismo transmission mount laying around and decided to throw that on there, I used a 14mm socket to tighten that down.

Hmm i'd have to say this is the cleanest i've seen inside a transmission thats been used.

I removed the clutch fork and throw-out bearing, so I can reach to the clutch pivot ball


Cleaned it up a little bit and decided to wait to install the nismo clutch pivot ball. Because I want to replace the front transmission cover gasket

Decided to replace my thermostat with a Nismo one. I used a 10mm socket with a 3/8 extension

I got creative and used some leverage to pry open the water neck I believe it's called?

Once that is popped off you can see the thermostat "Note the position of the thermostat before removing, when replacing postion it exactly the same as the OEM one."

Before reinstalling remove the old gasket using a box cutter knife

After comparing the two I concluded that the previous owner had used a nismo thermostat as well there almost identical! Oh well



New Nismo thermostat installed

I used this stuff for a gasket and applied one bead around the water neck <--- wait a minute this is not called a water neck, but you know what I mean.


I first hand tightened it waited an hour and then proceeded to tighten it to 2.7-3.7 ft lbs

That ended my day waiting for more parts to come in the mail this THURSDAY! woot woot