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Old 06-21-2016, 12:31 PM   #241
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No reason to not just build a koni setup over anything else if you're looking for good suspension. The AZC coilovers are just powertrix/HSD pick-your-favorite-color Taiwanese offering.

What are the consumable costs on the AZC kits? I have Defsport wilwoods -- 12.2" rotors are $45ish each for standard replacements, and $100/ea for HD. If you're not building a track day car it doesn't matter as much since you won't have too high of consumables just daily driving.
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:49 PM   #242
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I forget the brand since it's not a walbro pump. I kinda wanna try a Phase2 Motortrend fuel pump since everything else I've bought from them is pretty well made.
I switched to an OEM Z32 TT fuel pump. It's been working well for me. OEM, 260lph iirc. Just another option
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Old 06-21-2016, 02:33 PM   #243
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I switched to an OEM Z32 TT fuel pump. It's been working well for me. OEM, 260lph iirc. Just another option


Is it PNP or does it require some wiring?


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Old 06-21-2016, 04:34 PM   #244
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Is it PNP or does it require some wiring?
Little bit of wiring. If I remember right it's just stripping a couple wires and a couple crimps/heat wrap. I think it took us about 10 minutes to do. Other than that you just have to bend the bracket that holds the pump to accommodate the z32 pump since it is a bit bigger. It's similar to how you have to bend the fuel filter bracket a little if you use a Z32 fuel filter.
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Old 06-22-2016, 12:50 PM   #245
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Lol I live 10 mins from 425 also...

I haven't seen AZC stuff mentioned on a forum since my HybridZ.org days! I dreamt of buying their whole coilovers and BBK for my S30 a few years ago, such awesome stuff when no one was offering anything bolt on 5-6 years ago.


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Oh shyt, wud up ZG?
Is the S30 completely rebuilt?
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:10 PM   #246
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You're getting close, eh? What's left to do?
FMIC is coming in the mail this week, and I need to get a standalone. Set backs, tight on money. We'll see how it all plays out after Penny Arcade Expo... no track days until full tune.
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:10 AM   #247
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FMIC is coming in the mail this week, and I need to get a standalone. Set backs, tight on money. We'll see how it all plays out after Penny Arcade Expo... no track days until full tune.
You're getting pretty close then! What made you choose a standalone over a rom tune? You have a somewhat simple setup, if I'm not mistaken?
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:14 AM   #248
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You're getting pretty close then! What made you choose a standalone over a rom tune? You have a somewhat simple setup, if I'm not mistaken?
Nismotronic has an Ethernet port, so if I need a remote tune I just plug it into a router while your on the dyno and make some pulls. It has a bluetooth module that works with an app called Tuner Viewer. Switching to speed density is really easy to wire in and adjust the settings. USB port for tuning, datalogging is a breeze. You can setup the AC button to be your map switcher if you decide to run e85 for track days. There is Anti-lag and launch control, which would be nice for competition days because drifting pretty much is a drag race now... For $600 it's a pretty sweet package, includes eTuning. Unlike Megasquirt, JKTuning installs the daughter board to your OEM ecu and bam AC.
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:15 AM   #249
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Nismotronic has an Ethernet port, so if I need a remote tune I just plug it into a router while your on the dyno and make some pulls. It has a bluetooth module that works with an app called Tuner Viewer. Switching to speed density is really easy to wire in and adjust the settings. USB port for tuning, datalogging is a breeze. You can setup the AC button to be your map switcher if you decide to run e85 for track days. There is Anti-lag and launch control, which would be nice for competition days because drifting pretty much is a drag race now... For $600 it's a pretty sweet package, includes eTuning. Unlike Megasquirt, JKTuning installs the daughter board to your OEM ecu and bam AC.
Ahhh say no more haha. I assumed PowerFC or AEM when you said standalone. That makes sense. Who are you having tune it?
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:39 AM   #250
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Ahhh say no more haha. I assumed PowerFC or AEM when you said standalone. That makes sense. Who are you having tune it?
For the eTune, JKTuning in Pennsylvania. When I go speed density, probably Intec Racing in Auburn WA. Lawrence knows what's up.
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Old 06-23-2016, 11:28 AM   #251
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For the eTune, JKTuning in Pennsylvania. When I go speed density, probably Intec Racing in Auburn WA. Lawrence knows what's up.
Why are you using two different companies to do your tune? Or did I read that wrong?
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Old 06-24-2016, 06:20 AM   #252
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I thought about a koni setup. Didn't really care to deal with it, it's not going to be a dedicated track car, the spring rates are under 10k. it'll see a little airstrip attack and road course, lots of shows / meets / drives. would like to do the Modball Rally next year in it or something similar. MCA was the only company I talked to who gave me insight into my suspension setup and helped me out, so I went with them. They've had good success in racing and have a lot of Nissan experience, their S13 named Hammerhead is a pretty badass time attack car. So we'll see

I'll probably run XP10 / XP8s.. I don't think the new rotors are very pricey.. so relatively low operating costs.. actually for the whole car really once its done
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:32 AM   #253
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In my experience the konis still ride better (and coincidentally handle better) than any other suspension I've ridden in for a 240. There are obviously better shock offerings on the market, but those companies know that 240 guys won't spend the dollars anyway.

I really just wish MCS would offer something for s-chassis.

Looks like wilwood replacement rotors are $225/ea for the 13.06"/1.38" GT curved-vane rotor. Little bit too steep for my blood.
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:45 AM   #254
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Oh shyt, wud up ZG?
Is the S30 completely rebuilt?


Lol nah I sold that car like 6-7 years ago to a Canadian guy after I thought my L28 Turbo was knocking for 600 bucks [emoji20]. I hit him up a month later and he told me it was just the rods barely touching the oil pan and he had it fixed within a day or two of buying it.


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Old 06-24-2016, 10:50 AM   #255
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Lol nah I sold that car like 6-7 years ago to a Canadian guy after I thought my L28 Turbo was knocking for 600 bucks [emoji20]. I hit him up a month later and he told me it was just the rods barely touching the oil pan and he had it fixed within a day or two of buying it.


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Lets go and get it back for $601....lol
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:51 AM   #256
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I thought about a koni setup. Didn't really care to deal with it, it's not going to be a dedicated track car, the spring rates are under 10k. it'll see a little airstrip attack and road course, lots of shows / meets / drives. would like to do the Modball Rally next year in it or something similar. MCA was the only company I talked to who gave me insight into my suspension setup and helped me out, so I went with them. They've had good success in racing and have a lot of Nissan experience, their S13 named Hammerhead is a pretty badass time attack car. So we'll see

I'll probably run XP10 / XP8s.. I don't think the new rotors are very pricey.. so relatively low operating costs.. actually for the whole car really once its done
Did you talk to BC Racing? They were helpful when I was on the hunt for coilovers.
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Old 06-24-2016, 05:56 PM   #257
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Why are you using two different companies to do your tune? Or did I read that wrong?
First tuner offers the remote eTune included in the package, unlimited revisions. I'm using 2 different tuners because JKTuning is the company that builds/sells NismotronicSA, they have the most experience with the software and eTunes. When I switch to speed density, I'll have Intec dyno tune and adjust the maps.
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Old 06-25-2016, 03:40 AM   #258
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I didn't talk to BC, but I talked to a handful of companies that I felt had a decent racing background that weren't like 3 grand. Stance, BC, PBM, etc sorta cater towards drifting or slammed cars I feel like. I think the MCA stuff will be pretty decent.. the owner was modifying suspension for his track cars to the point he decided to start his own line since they were mostly built with his own parts. for 1500 bucks shipped for race bred coils, I can't complain. if I need more later I'll change em, but I don't want a super stiff setup for something I want to be able drive when the weather is nice.

the brakes are a bit spendy for the front, youre right. the rears aren't as bad at least. but 6, 700whp I wanna make sure I have great stopping power lol
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:41 AM   #259
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I didn't talk to BC, but I talked to a handful of companies that I felt had a decent racing background that weren't like 3 grand. Stance, BC, PBM, etc sorta cater towards drifting or slammed cars I feel like. I think the MCA stuff will be pretty decent.. the owner was modifying suspension for his track cars to the point he decided to start his own line since they were mostly built with his own parts. for 1500 bucks shipped for race bred coils, I can't complain. if I need more later I'll change em, but I don't want a super stiff setup for something I want to be able drive when the weather is nice.

the brakes are a bit spendy for the front, youre right. the rears aren't as bad at least. but 6, 700whp I wanna make sure I have great stopping power lol
I hear you.
According to Corbic, your hp doesn't matter, only your speed.

Wait, 700whp? In which car powered by what engine?
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:43 AM   #260
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First tuner offers the remote eTune included in the package, unlimited revisions. I'm using 2 different tuners because JKTuning is the company that builds/sells NismotronicSA, they have the most experience with the software and eTunes. When I switch to speed density, I'll have Intec dyno tune and adjust the maps.
Ok, cool.
I had a similar situation where a company in GA did my initial eTune and I had to find a local place to fine tune it.
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Old 06-25-2016, 11:44 AM   #261
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According to Corbic, your hp doesn't matter, only your speed.
Essentially, he's correct. Unless there is a significant increase in the vehicle's mass, a 200hp car is going to stop the same distance from 100mph-0mph as a 700hp car(if we take in to account that it's the same car).

The main reason to upgrade to better and larger brakes is for motorsports/spirited driving applications. Cooling decreases fading and increased rotor size helps the leverage to slow the car down.
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Old 06-25-2016, 01:20 PM   #262
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************************************************** *************************
Disclaimer:
I am not disputing anything anyone says. I'm simply inquiring information for my personal learning benefit.
************************************************** *************************

I'm not going to dispute anything, but with that logic, it does't make any sense upgrading your stock brakes no matter what hp you have.

It's hard to think that after spending $3K in brakes that you'll stop in the same distance as stock if you're going 60 mph.

Also, with that same logic, why is it that if you're at the track approaching a corner, you can brake later? Is the weight of the car the only factor there?

I am assuming that with all the logic being used, a BBK is only good to avoid brake loss due to over heating and less fading because brake stopping power isn't improved.

So correct me if I'm wrong.

If a car is 3000lbs going 60 mph with stock brakes, has a stopping distance of x feet.
You'll stop in the same x feet if you put on a BBK and stainless steel lines?
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:40 AM   #263
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Yeah, depending on if I choose the E85 route, I'm looking at a reliable 600 - 700whp and torque. It's getting a L33 5.3l aluminum V8 and a 75 or so mm single turbo. Stock block, less than a grand for a junk yard motor i'm doing all the supporting mods before engine stuff.. safety first, cage and seats, fuel safe cell, fire suppression, etc.

The majority of it is heat dissipation, yes. I can lock the brakes up with my stock tires.. but you go to a wider setup with a slick, thats very sticky, stock brakes are going to work a lot harder, and get a lot hotter a lot quicker and possibly be overpowered. Moving to a 4 piston or 6 piston, you have a lot more fluid in them, and pad + rotor surface to combat heat. Plus a lot more pressure can be put on the rotor with more piston surface area. There's not much of a point in upgrading if your car is stock or you don't track, but wider tires and higher speed stopping, maybe with some downforce mods.. definitely nice to have. Plus you can get into more exotic pad and disc compounds. The wilwood kit is gonna run me about 2 grand.. not bad really, and they keep the unsprung weight down vs other options. Good investment imo.
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Old 06-26-2016, 12:16 PM   #264
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I'm not going to dispute anything, but with that logic, it does't make any sense upgrading your stock brakes no matter what hp you have.
Sure it does. Even at stock HP levels most cars can benefit from better pads.

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It's hard to think that after spending $3K in brakes that you'll stop in the same distance as stock if you're going 60 mph.
No one is saying that. Of coarse you'll improve stopping distance with an upgraded braking system compared to stock braking systems.

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Also, with that same logic, why is it that if you're at the track approaching a corner, you can brake later? Is the weight of the car the only factor there?
The weight is a factor yes, but if you have an upgraded braking system that can handle more heat dissipation and grip force than yeah later braking into corner is achieved.

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I am assuming that with all the logic being used, a BBK is only good to avoid brake loss due to over heating and less fading because brake stopping power isn't improved.
Braking efficiency is improved a few ways when doing a BBK. First, by increasing the rotor size you increase the surface area that can dissipate heat faster and has less heat soak. Also, improved internal vanes "throw" heat away from the inside of the rotor, thus decreasing the amount of heat the rotor retains after braking. Increasing the size of the rotor also increases leverage the caliper can apply. Think of the difference a 3/8 wrench can do versus a breaker bar.

Quote:
So correct me if I'm wrong.

If a car is 3000lbs going 60 mph with stock brakes, has a stopping distance of x feet.
You'll stop in the same x feet if you put on a BBK and stainless steel lines?
No. any car with improved brakes will stop better with a well engineered BBK
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:59 PM   #265
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You'd stop better per buck with a good set of tires. most guys wrongfully get a big brake kit assuming that's all they'll need. What they should spend money on is better pads, better fluid, better tires, and a whole lotta driving time.



also news update on that black bitch that wont start. cold compression numbers
#1-180
#2-180
#3-120
#4-175

looks like Im gonna need a rebuild, unless someone has a KA-DE sitting around I can rebuild and swap in.
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:09 AM   #266
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I'm going with S04s, 245/40r18 front and 275/35r18 rears.. I want the same touchy pedal feel as my Z has. I get in the Z and almost faceplant the steering wheel.

sorry to hear about the motor man

thinking about the vertex lang front bumper without the canards.. it has the normal kouki front for now. thoughts? car will be sorta this color, little darker(grigio medio or grigio telesto), with black wheels (OZ racing challenge hlt).

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Old 06-27-2016, 10:38 AM   #267
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its a good color combination. Ill be running a brilliant black paint on bronze rims. and wrinkle red Z32 brake calipers. anyone got a KA-DE motor and trans they'd sell? Im looking...
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:40 PM   #268
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I'll keep an eye out. Mines not ready to pull, otherwise I wish I could help ya out. I'm still inthe middle east -_-

I love black, bronze and red. That'll look sick.. one of my favorite combos ever. Classy and clean
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Old 06-28-2016, 03:54 AM   #269
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I'll keep an eye out. Mines not ready to pull, otherwise I wish I could help ya out. I'm still inthe middle east -_-

I love black, bronze and red. That'll look sick.. one of my favorite combos ever. Classy and clean

Thanks, Im still out in the middle of the pacific too but this is all planning and buying ahead of time only got two weeks of leave to get everything installed. and i got money to burn... XD

and thanks. I dont like black rims or all blacked out cars. my wheel wells will be colorful needless to say, green coilovers, red brakes, yellow control arms. it'll all work out well with the black paint. im trying to keep the outside as vintage 90's as possible so i can take it to car shows and cars and coffee as a sort of heritage car since most s chassis are getting chopped up these days
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Old 06-28-2016, 06:52 AM   #270
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Haha. Yeah, I'm in the same boat.

Parts to buy, not much time to install if I want to have any fun in it this summer before work drags me away again.

I don't usually like black wheels, but the paint color I want does look good with black. I want bronze LMGT2s but I haven't been able to find a decent set in the offsets I want. The OZ are temps but they should look pretty cool til I find replacements. I hope, anyway. Lol

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