My SR20VET...

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

Awesome update. Fresh carpets make the car feel so different (in a good way)
If thats a S15 Spec R diff, and you want to sell / ship it, PM me. I have a potential buyer who is looking for one.

Thanks. The diff was a S15 helical in an S14 non-ABS housing. An old friend actually bought it in FL.

[jr_ss]

Small updates, nothing too exciting. These small accomplishments always seem to take the longest. They generally go unnoticed, so it doesn’t appear you’re making any head way. Regardless, they need to be completed.

Years ago, I modified my dash to install a boost trim knob for my Haltech E8 (old right…). It wasn’t an issue with the S14 cluster. It came back as an issue with I installed my R33 cluster, which happens to not let the cluster surround seat fully without this catch in place. It’s all sorted now and it probably the strongest portion of the dash.






I removed the honking S13 IACV assembly and picked up a Wilson manifolds billet IACV housing. It utilizes a Bosch stepper motor and is originally designed to bolt to one of their fancy throttle bodies. I modified it to be used on my intake manifold in leu of the S13 IACV. My problem was, I didn’t use the coolant ports on the IACV, which gradually choked the motor when it heat soaked in traffic or idling at tracks, etc. Once airflow cooled the IM down, the motor would idle normal again. This also frees up a lot of room under the manifold.







The last item is a throttle cable bracket I fabbed up. Mini-vise brakes come in handy and if you don’t have one, I’d suggest getting one. It is 3/16” aluminum plate that I laid out, cut and bent. The Q45 TB bracket is on the outside of the manifold and I wanted to switch that to the inside. I also replaced the hideous Q45 for a billet 90mm that I could weld a vanjen clamp to as they are cleaner and allow for a lot of boost. Unfortunately, the new TB rotates inversely of the Q45, which was also a reason for the bracket relocation.

[tuzzio]

Where is that AN fitting going to go to? Just another vacuum source?
Good stuff. I go back and forth often with putting on IACV on my KA.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

Where is that AN fitting going to go to? Just another vacuum source?
Good stuff. I go back and forth often with putting on IACV on my KA.

Vac source will run to the cold pipe. I have a bung to weld on and another -8an ORB fitting for that piece. If I would?ve gone DWB, I wouldn?t need any of it, but I like being in charge of the throttle.

[RalliartRsX]

This is is noiiiicceeeee!

[jr_ss]

I like melting metals together. It’s very cathartic for me. Maybe it’s the idea of taking a vision and making it a reality, who knows…

[jr_ss]

More progress on the charge piping. I had to order an aluminum 2” 90 for the turbo discharge. I’ll throw my plazmaman clamp on the end of that and finalize the interconnecting pipe. It transitions from 2” up to 2.5” for the IC connection. The IC is an ETS unit, I believe I mentioned that a few posts/pages back, rated for 700+.

In other news, the machine shop said they would be getting started on the motor. Super excited about that.

Anyway, stupid pictures because half y’all don’t read anyway!

[tuzzio]

If you decide you don't want the machine shop to do your block, i'll be selling a longblock in the coming weeks...

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

If you decide you don't want the machine shop to do your block, i'll be selling a longblock in the coming weeks...

Thanks, but the machine shop has all the components I?ve ordered and the items they have thrown in the mix. Throw it up on Facespace marketplace, it?ll sell.

[PoorMans180SX]

Now that’s the kind of intercooler piping I like to see. Smooth bends, proper transitions, and short routing. You’d think it was impossible with all the pie cut madness that’s popular lately.

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Now that?s the kind of intercooler piping I like to see. Smooth bends, proper transitions, and short routing. You?d think it was impossible with all the pie cut madness that?s popular lately.

I think I am only one who hates piecuts lol

Give me smooth bends, less welds and less time spend welding.

Glenn, work looks great! Really excited about your engine build

[tuzzio]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

I think I am only one who hates piecuts lol

Piecuts never look better than a bend. Ever.
And 9.5 out of 10 welders can not make pie cuts look good.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Now that?s the kind of intercooler piping I like to see. Smooth bends, proper transitions, and short routing. You?d think it was impossible with all the pie cut madness that?s popular lately.

I don?t quite understand it. It?s more work and a lot of the time, it looks like trash because they are not a smooth bend.

Thank you!

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

I think I am only one who hates piecuts lol

Give me smooth bends, less welds and less time spend welding.

Glenn, work looks great! Really excited about your engine build

Chris, thanks! I?m looking forward to it as well. Hopefully we can do a local meet some place centrally located for all the Nissan guys in the area.

Originally Posted by tuzzio

Piecuts never look better than a bend. Ever.
And 9.5 out of 10 welders can not make pie cuts look good.

Most don?t know how to properly do it. There are angles at play and it?s time consuming. With a good calculator, your left guessing, cutting multiple times and wasting tons of material.

This is a properly done pie cut. My buddy is an artist and works on some higher end cars.

[RalliartRsX]

Not gonna lie, titanium pie cuts and welds are section as fuck though (outside of the stainless posted above by Glenn

[jr_ss]

More melting!

[tuzzio]

That reducer was nicely executed. Good work.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by tuzzio

That reducer was nicely executed. Good work.

Thank you kindly. Trying to make this look professionally done. At the end of the day though, as long as it performs, that is all I truly care about. I know I have some ugly welds. It?s like the Sistine Chapel, the welding gets better the more I do it and practice.

[jr_ss]

Finished the hot pipe welding. Test fit post weld is great. Now it is ready for Cerakote.

I also picked up Mazworx newest (check O-ring seal) VE billet pickup from a guy I know going dry sump.










The cold pipe now has the Tial fitting for my BOV. Last setup I had it outside of the bay due to limited piping real estate (silicon couplers everywhere). This is nice and tidy in my opinion.

[jr_ss]

I finished up the turbo elbow and completed the joints on the cold pipe welding this morning. I have to add one more fitting on the cold pipe, but I ran out of Argon this morning. I’ll pick up a bottle today so I can wrap that up.

My Venturi for the catch can came in last week as well. I threw my DP back in so I can make sure I have it positioned properly to get the -10AN fitting on. Ideally, it will stick out above the steering column so I can get a 90* fitting on it which will receive the outlet side of the check valve.

Eventually, all red/blue fittings will be transitioned to black.

[nick_d_240sx]

Great work! Wish I had a Tig and your skills to go with it!

Couple questions, Why did you choose that location for the boost reference on the compressor housing? Will the pressure at that location vs. near the outlet of the housing or at the throttle body or intake manifold be relative/similar?

Is the venturi used in the exhaust to scavenge the vapors from the catch can? Maybe you can share your thoughts on that vs routing to the intake before the turbo?

Cool shit.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by nick_d_240sx

Great work! Wish I had a Tig and your skills to go with it!

Couple questions, Why did you choose that location for the boost reference on the compressor housing? Will the pressure at that location vs. near the outlet of the housing or at the throttle body or intake manifold be relative/similar?

Is the venturi used in the exhaust to scavenge the vapors from the catch can? Maybe you can share your thoughts on that vs routing to the intake before the turbo?

Cool shit.

Thanks!

Boost will equalize within the system, so it shouldn?t be of any consequence to tap there or at another location. I chose that spot as it was nice and flat and easy to tap. I also wanted the boost reference/signal for the wastegate and control solenoid to be as close as possible.

The Venturi scavenges the crankcase pressure/vapor through the catch can. I packed my catch can full of SS scrub pad material and sealed the ports down to the bottom of the can. It draws oily vapor down then up thru the filtration media, collecting oil droplets and minimize the amount pulled into the exhaust stream.

Hope that helps?

[jr_ss]

Venturi fitting is welded on and test fit. Clears wastegate and driveshaft easily and no issues sliding it down into place. You can see the opening in the photos facing upstream. I halso have some grinding to do inside, where the wastegate is recirculated due to some excess tubing hanging out and potentially blocking flow from the gate. I don’t want this to be an issue, so it’ll be addressed when it comes back. I did clean some of it up this morning, but you can see a small lip in the photos below.

Turbo is disassembled and ready for coating. I also pulled the intake manifold and removed all the peripheral components for coating, as well as cutting off the old throttle cable bracket. A sawzall, oscillating tool, die grinder and angle grinder were all used in that production. Fuel rail is going too.

It’s all ready to go to the coating shop tomorrow. I have an idea what colors I want, but I’d like to see how it looks in person before I make a final decision. The exhaust manifold is not getting Cerakoted, I’m probably going to have that Swaintech - white lightening coated for obvious reasons.

The camera picture below comes in handy.

Thanks for looking!

[jr_ss]

Here’s the S15 VC cover I intend to run. I’m not exactly sure how I feel about the purple on the Ruby, perhaps it’ll grow on me. I have the Radium Eng. VC -10AN fittings to install on it. I am putting the T piece designed for the S13 VC on the front to tie the block vent into it. I’ll install the 90* one on the rear and then face it forward to go to the catch can like the front of the T. Tape is on the VC because I am painting that area black as there was some marks in the coating when I removed the factory barbs.

[Om1kron]

I thought the rear of the s14 valve cover didn't clear all the stuff on the back of the ve head. I already have a s13/s14 hybrid valve cover so I'm wondering if that would be a direct swap. Would be nice not to have to get rid of such a nice piece.

[RalliartRsX]

Yeah. The RWD SR does not have the cutout for the CAS of the FWD

However, I think Glenn is grafting the front VTC portion of the S14 cover to the VE cover, not the other way around.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

I thought the rear of the s14 valve cover didn't clear all the stuff on the back of the ve head. I already have a s13/s14 hybrid valve cover so I'm wondering if that would be a direct swap. Would be nice not to have to get rid of such a nice piece.

If you are not using the P12 CAS for trigger signal, this can be cut off so a standard VC bolts on.

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Yeah. The RWD SR does not have the cutout for the CAS of the FWD

However, I think Glenn is grafting the front VTC portion of the S14 cover to the VE cover, not the other way around.

Chris, correct. I do have all the components to graft the S14 front and the P11/12 VC together, but the shapes are quite different, so it will require some patience to say the least.

[brndck]

this is why mazworx makes a billet "s13.4/p11/12" valve cover. Takes the advantages (better baffling) of a s14 VC, and adapts it for VE head.

not cheap, and imo not pretty enough for me to want it as an aesthetic piece.
The machining lines could be smoothed out and it would look a lot better, but its billet, so having machining lines kinda comes with the territory

https://www.mazworx.com/sr20-billet-...er-p11-14.aspx

[jr_ss]

Again, not needed. Cut the outer or rearward most CAS flange off and slide the S13.4/S14/S15 VC right over it.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Again, not needed. Cut the outer or rearward most CAS flange off and slide the S13.4/S14/S15 VC right over it.

Good to know. Was going tarks everything

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Good to know. Was going tarks everything

TAARKS makes some nice things, but there a few things I wouldn?t buy. Their cool bracket kit is one of them. While it is sleek, it doesn?t seal the plug holes like the PRP kit does. Also, you can source VQ37 coils for like 15$ each and they are just as powerful as the R35 units. Hell you can run Denso dumb coils with the ignitor up to 500whp. That?s what I had, only problem being the threaded plugs are no longer manufactured.