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Old 02-06-2015, 08:12 PM   #4921
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http://m.ebay.com/itm/390973397651?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
what's your input on that? Wish some of u guys are from cail would love to see your builds
I have an ebay mani. Def needs work for better fitment. Will have to trim one or two of the exhaust studs for better fitment.
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Old 02-06-2015, 10:45 PM   #4922
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Atlspeed lol just order it today I guess will see how it fits when it gets here.....
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Old 02-07-2015, 01:50 PM   #4923
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I have the divided t4 ilovetacotaco manifold and I had to do some crazy shit to get it to fit and not leak. Not only trimming exhaust studs but I had to bore out the holes to move it down and back a few mm. The front three runners sat too far back and the back three runners sat too far forward so it would leak like crazy because the opening of the runners were so big and would go past the exhaust gaskets. I then had to dremel the exhaust stud holes on the gaskets and move them around until didn't leak. I put permatex copper gasket on everything and so far it hasn't leaked again.
I hope I can save someone from the bullshit I went through. You get what you pay for I guess or maybe I'm just really fcking unlucky and the 5 year old that built it in Taiwan didn't give a shit that day.
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:34 PM   #4924
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As240 I think everyone gets the same quality on those manifolds you are just the only one that pays attention to details that most people look past and/or ignore.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:38 AM   #4925
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Go to page 153 to see how I and most others route their lines.
Freed made my vvti harness.
How much did Freed charge for the hardness?
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:38 AM   #4926
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How much did Freed charge for the hardness?
I'll have to check my invoice tonight but I got the harness, r154 shifter extension, fuel pressure regulator bracket and swap mounts from him at the same time. I'll check when I get off work tonight but I think it came out to be somewhere in the $6-700 range
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:02 PM   #4927
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I'll have to check my invoice tonight but I got the harness, r154 shifter extension, fuel pressure regulator bracket and swap mounts from him at the same time. I'll check when I get off work tonight but I think it came out to be somewhere in the $6-700 range
Seems like a fair price. Im thinking about running a honda aem ems on my 2jzgte vvti too now, because aem ems for a 2jz are way too expense lol.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:02 PM   #4928
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How dose that work?
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:28 PM   #4929
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You just make or buy a jumper harness that goes from the EMS to your engine wiring harness. Look at the kits on Driftmotion and you'll see what i mean.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:41 PM   #4930
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About to purchase one soon for 1500 so want to know more
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:44 PM   #4931
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Aem v2 that is
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Old 02-09-2015, 03:14 PM   #4932
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Sorry but I just went to Driftmotion and it appears that they only make the Honda box/jumper kits for 1JZ motors.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:28 AM   #4933
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Freed made my harness so that it plugs directly into a Honda aem v2 which I also got from him. I totally forgot about checking my receipts. I'll do that tonight.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:15 AM   #4934
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I paid $2700 for everything you see.
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:13 PM   #4935
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How/Where is everyone mounting/laying/stashing/hiding/etc their ecu? I was able to wedge mine in right under the glove box and then zip tie it. But now I have proefi and...it just lays on the floor lol
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:18 PM   #4936
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Interested to see this as well. ProEFI is basically the size of an amp so maybe under the seat? I haven't gotten to the point of looking for a mounting point for my 128 yet. Definitely won't fit under the glove box without being touched by feet haha.
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:22 PM   #4937
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Would it be possible to notch out the back of the glove box for the harness and mount it inside? That's what I plan on doing with my aem if it won't fit in the stock ecu location. Proefi would be a little more difficult because of how the harness plugs in.
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:33 PM   #4938
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Lol would like to see also mine is just chilling there
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:09 PM   #4939
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I made a stand for mine that puts it right behind the glove box. I dont have A/C though, lots of space.
I would have put it in the glove box but, damn chasebays harness is short as balls.






Sorry for the huge pics.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:01 PM   #4940
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Dam thats nice.
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Old 02-12-2015, 03:27 PM   #4941
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My aem infinity showed up. Not too left before this car can actually start haha.
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Old 02-13-2015, 02:41 PM   #4942
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So i've been off Zilvia for a few weeks, trying to catch up on some personal stuff, i read back through the last few pages and saw there was a bunch of talk about the 1JZ-VVTI swap stuff,

I was under the impression that if you bought an Early 1JZ-GTE VVTI engine with the throttle cable you were fine, and if you got the newer one a TB switch and a ECU switch to the early ones was all you needed to do? Anyone ever try to get a DBW pedal hooked up in a S-Chassis? I thought i saw some LS guy's doing it with GTO swaps.
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Old 02-13-2015, 04:10 PM   #4943
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Quote:
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So i've been off Zilvia for a few weeks, trying to catch up on some personal stuff, i read back through the last few pages and saw there was a bunch of talk about the 1JZ-VVTI swap stuff,

I was under the impression that if you bought an Early 1JZ-GTE VVTI engine with the throttle cable you were fine, and if you got the newer one a TB switch and a ECU switch to the early ones was all you needed to do? Anyone ever try to get a DBW pedal hooked up in a S-Chassis? I thought i saw some LS guy's doing it with GTO swaps.
You can technically swap out TB and ecu for first gen ecu, but unfortunately they changed the plugs a few times between models so the only model I know of that is possible is the soarer model (which is rear sump). May be possible with more, but that's the only model I know of that the plugs remained the same between both gen 1jz vvti's.

Your other hangup will be the IACV which only comes on first gen 1jz vvti.. you will also need to swap out the intake manifold or drill out the port for it and install some studs if you want to use it On a second gen 1jz vvti. You can also use a 1jzgtte intake manifold which will also conveniently give you a map sensor port, since 1jz vvti only uses MAF.

I've never heard of people swapping over the DBW system for the 1jz vvti (but have on swaps like vq35 etc.), most likely because the dual butterfly TB piggybacking the ecu tends to slow down performance for sake of fuel management.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:00 PM   #4944
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That's actually very relevant to what I'm dealing with now. Long story short I'm going to pick up a JZZ30 soarer 1JZ VVTI tomorrow in exhange for my JZX110 Crown engine. (sorry for all the acronyms, trying to make this easy to search for).

Anyways you don't need a special pedal for the X110 drive by wire in the late model 1JZ VVTI's. Instead a mechanical cable like the early models have is attached to the throttle body but instead of turning the throttle body plate when actuated, it instead spins a potentiometer that tells the ECU what the input was, the ECU then accomodates and sends a signal over to the DBW gears and actuates the plate.

So there is no fancy pedal involved, just electronics at work. There's a few options for remedying this.

1. Swap to earlier throttle body, ECU and MAF (x110 uses a different MAF)

OR

2. Drive by Wire 'delete' kit by Premium Japan
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/p.../item/kit-001/


Here's Toyota's ETCS-I explanation:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQSfJgjDjwU
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:38 PM   #4945
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Hey is anyone running a pbm high mount on their Jz? Been thinking about buying one but I don't know if the ic is too small for our motors
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:39 PM   #4946
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I've seen a few people retain AC with JZ swaps but not much info on how it's done. Is there a kit available for this like with the LS? I assume the stock JZ AC compressor is used...?
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Old 02-16-2015, 03:17 AM   #4947
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^^ I am also curious about this. What condenser did some of you guys go with, and is there any overheating issues?
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Old 02-16-2015, 06:38 AM   #4948
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Just adding some more information to this thread. Did a mid sump (Soarer) to front sump (Crown) conversion this weekend and it's super easy.

1. Pull the Pan
2. Pull the oil pickup and baffle plate
3. Unbolt the sump.
4. Remove oil dipstick and any oil level sensors that may be present (midsump had one).
5. Disconnect turbo oil drain line.
6. Look for the slots at all four corners of the sump that have a cutout for a screwdriver and pry gently.
7. Should come off no problem, clean your mating surfaces and reapply Toyota FIPG or Permatex equivalent.
8. Make sure to transfer over all associated parts including the dipstick tube.

The CT15B turbo does have two different oil drain lines for midsump and front sump but the bends aren't difficult to remedy. If I find part numbers for prebent lines I'll post them. I could have swapped turbo lines over but the Crown was a pain due to engine mount location and I was short on time..
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Old 02-16-2015, 10:56 AM   #4949
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^^^Make sure you use a front sump oil dipstick as well.
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Old 02-16-2015, 08:21 PM   #4950
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Hey guys quick question, glanced through this entire thread to look for Cross-flow radiators

In need for a very efficient cooling system, as the jz swap im doing into my brothers s14 will have A/C and be in Arizona used as a daily. Already ceramic coated all the exhaust stuff to keep temps under control.

Was thinking a drop in? if they make it or custom is not an issue, with SPAL extreme 12" fans.

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