Free Emergency Technical support via blu808 - Page 3 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

SR2Zero · 10-04-2008, 01:53 PM

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/217262...fuel-rail.html

milesprwr · 10-04-2008, 06:21 PM

Hiya,

I noticed that my engine (KA24DE w/ ~111k miles) idles a little high despite the temperature of the engine. I used to have an S2K and whenever I started the engine cold, it idled high until the engine warmed up and settled down. In my '91 240, the idle will only go as low as ~1.1k RPM despite the fact that the engine is warmed up. Any ideas as to why it does this? What's normal for this engine to be idling at anyway?

Def · 10-04-2008, 06:32 PM

Normal without the AC on is 750 +/- 25 RPM I think. You can try turning the IACV screw in some, but my bet is you have a small vacuum leak on your intake manifold side(after the throttle body).

DLo Eric · 10-05-2008, 12:21 AM

Hey Luke, I really appreciate your expertise that you share with everyone on zilvia. Not a lot of people give it out for free to strangers.

On to my problem.

This is something that has been happening for about 2 years and I've yet to figure it out.

3.5K+ hard engine vibrations. Followed with "glitching" cluster. (Would jump up/down slightly on all gauges ie fuel water temp RPMs and MPH)

Any time, through any gear my engine would vibrate harshly from 3.5k and up which makes freeway driving over 65 mph unbearable. About a year ago it was at 4k+ RPMs and I was able to drive up to 80mph without this happening. Now it has dropped.

I've gone through it and nothing is rubbing against anything nor are my mounts loose. However my harness in the wheel well has been rubbed up a few good times but were always rewired/tucked.

SAFC and wideband isnt showing any spikes/dips in either AFR or knock. No Smoke out the back either.

Current Setup:
Blacktop SR (Redtop harness and ecu)
T28 - SAFC - N60 Maf (have a N62 sitting around)
(NGK Wideband)
FMIC/full exhaust/Walbro/Splitfire coilpacks

What could be causing this harsh vibration? is there any more info I can give you to help diagnose this?

blu808 · 10-05-2008, 12:38 AM

milesprwr: I would check all your vacume lines, and intake tube for any leaks. Is your check engine light on? If so I would replace the 2 wire temp sensor which is located on the water neck. That one tells the ecu when its warm. The single wire one next to that is for your gauge.

Dlo eric: Thanks.

Im willing to bet that if you bought a cheap volt meter and hooked it up directly to your battery and drove around you would find your voltage dropping below 10 volts when that problem is occurring. I would bet that your alternator is slowly dieing out. and over time the voltage keeps dropping. An sr uses more and more energy at higher load (rpm) levels, and if the voltage drops too low the coil pack cannot fire the spark plug.

Let me know.
Luke

milesprwr · 10-05-2008, 02:07 AM

Thanks, I'll go ahead and check the lines for leaks.

No, the check engine light is not on.

DLo Eric · 10-05-2008, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blu808

Dlo eric: Thanks.

Im willing to bet that if you bought a cheap volt meter and hooked it up directly to your battery and drove around you would find your voltage dropping below 10 volts when that problem is occurring. I would bet that your alternator is slowly dieing out. and over time the voltage keeps dropping. An sr uses more and more energy at higher load (rpm) levels, and if the voltage drops too low the coil pack cannot fire the spark plug.

Let me know.
Luke

That is quite possibly dead on. I've been experimenting with grounding thinking it might be the issue but is there a process to check it with a multimeter? Considering I'm running the stock alternator from the original redtop from nearly 3 years ago, it would explain whats going on.

KasperSlide · 10-05-2008, 08:56 AM

ok so i swap a manual s13 trans into a 95' auto s14. and as most know the speedo reads double the mph. so to rectify the problem i bought a s14 manual VSS. but it still is reading double the mph. soooooo..... anyone of you crazy kidz know what i can do.
p.s. ive already searched and have pm'ed ppl that have had the same prob with no response nor were there post's answered.

blu808 · 10-05-2008, 12:30 PM

maybe they gave you the wrong speedo sens.

trust187 · 10-05-2008, 01:12 PM

Its great your doing this Luke. Well heres my problem, car battery died a couple of weeks ago, and I tried to jump it, but it seems I wired the cables or something wrong and all the electrical units in my car fried. Nothing electrical works except for the headlights so assuming my fuses are fried. The car still starts but the alternator does not charge the battery. I've changed the alternator and gotten a new battery since then, but the battery still does not get charged. Any ideas?

Fonix36 · 10-17-2008, 06:06 PM

hey im still having problems with the stupid tac i have tried everything i even fallowed each wire to make sure they wornt burnt or something

moses · 10-19-2008, 03:12 PM

Hey i got a question. what setting should I use on my greddy profec spec 2 with a gt2871r? would it be the same settings as I had it on the stock turbo or little higher? also would you happen to know the stock psi on a gt2871r wastegate and do you know if a different turbo will make my greddy blow off valve sound different?

blu808 · 10-19-2008, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trust187

Its great your doing this Luke. Well heres my problem, car battery died a couple of weeks ago, and I tried to jump it, but it seems I wired the cables or something wrong and all the electrical units in my car fried. Nothing electrical works except for the headlights so assuming my fuses are fried. The car still starts but the alternator does not charge the battery. I've changed the alternator and gotten a new battery since then, but the battery still does not get charged. Any ideas?

Most likely it is your fusible link on the power cable.

blu808 · 10-19-2008, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fonix36

hey im still having problems with the stupid tac i have tried everything i even fallowed each wire to make sure they wornt burnt or something

Did you replace the gauge cluster?

blu808 · 10-19-2008, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moses

Hey i got a question. what setting should I use on my greddy profec spec 2 with a gt2871r? would it be the same settings as I had it on the stock turbo or little higher? also would you happen to know the stock psi on a gt2871r wastegate and do you know if a different turbo will make my greddy blow off valve sound different?

Setting for what? Are you trying to set it for a certain boost level? If so get a boost gauge and just keep turning it up until you reach the desired boost. And turn the gain up until you get some over boost, then back it off.

Also on the wastegate there are many different ones available for that turbo, you can put a vac pump on it and pump it up till it opens, that will tell you which one you have.

Different boost levels, flow levels will change sounds on bov, exh, intake, ect.

FIlthy 24O · 10-19-2008, 08:13 PM

BLU808 ur pm are full please pm me i have a question to ask about side job THANKS

blu808 · 10-20-2008, 12:55 AM

Pm's cleared.

*PBucch* · 10-20-2008, 07:10 AM

blu, how can I tell if my KA's AICV air regulator is good or not? I have it removed from the car. I have a multimeter to test it, thanks.

duffman1278 · 10-20-2008, 10:48 AM

I've got a question, for some reason when I'm at a complete stop, or red light, my engine will idle fine and smooth for about 1-2min. after that the engine shakes and you can feel the whole car shake. I've checked for boost leaks with a DIY boost leak tester, and my vacuum lines are brand new. Can't seem to figure out whats causing it. What could be causing this?

whatda · 10-20-2008, 09:20 PM

my fuse for the tail lights keeps on blowing every time i put in a new one
every time i turn the head lights on the head lights only go on but not the gage cluster and the running lights

the car is a 90's sohc with a ground kit thing

please help its been like this for 4 moths

Fonix36 · 10-20-2008, 11:30 PM

yes i did sr

Quote:

Originally Posted by blu808

Did you replace the gauge cluster?

lol

blu808 · 10-20-2008, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fonix36

yes u did sr

I replaced it?

steve shadows · 10-21-2008, 02:19 AM

emergency: what happened with the bonneville project!?

Fonix36 · 10-23-2008, 09:53 PM

my bad i did

RUTH'LESSDET · 10-25-2008, 10:31 AM

Okay so basically Im running a 2006 gto ls2 in my 97 nissan 240sx but I need some help with my current setup because im getting to much fuel pressure(65-70psi) and I cant seem to "regulate" the pressure. Ill start by saying im running a walboro 255lph in tank pump/ into a 99+ vette fuel filter&reg/and one single line up the length of the car into a aeromotive fpr/and then into the rail(everything -6an)

2 lines from the tank and 1 single output up to the fpr and then the rail

picture of line going toward the rail.

This is an old picture of how the single line enters the fpr I have it coming in the left inlet and out the right inlet, and the return port blocked off.....And obviously this is the culperate but how should this part be changed?
why is the pressure so high shouldn't the vette regulator/filter be doing its job?
would entering through the left inlet port and out the return line port is this even possible?
I need your expert advice

Thanx in advance

HunsakerS14 · 11-04-2008, 02:36 PM

Yesterday morning I go to start my car and nothin. as if the batterys dead. tried again and made a clicking noise. I was the only one home so I tried push startin it. was unsuccesful. call my buddy up to have him come jump me and as hes pullin into my driveway I just try to start it for the hell of it and vrooom... starts perfectly. ran fine all day/night. get up this morning to go to work and try to start it, nothin again. try it again and only clicking. (luckily my mom was home so I barrowed her car...) I dont know if its just my battery/starter/alternator... so you got any ideas?

RUTH'LESSDET · 11-05-2008, 11:58 AM

hey luke whats good man no more help????

blu808 · 11-05-2008, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve shadows

emergency: what happened with the bonneville project!?

Ive been to busy giving away free help to build my fc. lol. Naa more updates coming soon. I still need to get with you about tuning it.

fonix36: no idea man. have you tried hooking up an aftermarket tach and see if the problem persists?

RUTH'LESSDET: pm me for my cell number, or give me a ring if you already have it.

HunsakerS14: loose connection somewhere. I would check battery terminal connections, grounds, starter power wire connection.

SR2Zero · 11-08-2008, 08:46 PM

Ok, so I've finally got my sr to the point im ready to crank. I turned the motor over, fuel pump primes, and gas comes out from the bottom of my injectors. (They're yellow top, at the bottom where the cap isn't and the yellow is showing)Is it o-rings or what?

blu808 · 11-08-2008, 08:58 PM

So. fuel was gushing out from where it meets the intake manifold? that is not good. For 1 fuel should not be getting past the lower o rings at all. that is low pressure, etc. Usually when an o ring goes bad it will be from where the injector meets the rail.

BTW: ATTENTION EVERYONE.

I have been getting over 100 Pm's a week about this free help. So here is what I am proposing. Please send me a donation to my paypal for my time. Only send me a donation if my advice resolves your problem. I dont care if it is $1 or $10. Thanks.

Luke

Paypal= [email protected]

10-05-2008, 12:38 AM	#65
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 41 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	milesprwr: I would check all your vacume lines, and intake tube for any leaks. Is your check engine light on? If so I would replace the 2 wire temp sensor which is located on the water neck. That one tells the ecu when its warm. The single wire one next to that is for your gauge. Dlo eric: Thanks. Im willing to bet that if you bought a cheap volt meter and hooked it up directly to your battery and drove around you would find your voltage dropping below 10 volts when that problem is occurring. I would bet that your alternator is slowly dieing out. and over time the voltage keeps dropping. An sr uses more and more energy at higher load (rpm) levels, and if the voltage drops too low the coil pack cannot fire the spark plug. Let me know. Luke __________________

10-05-2008, 12:30 PM	#69
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 41 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	maybe they gave you the wrong speedo sens. __________________

10-17-2008, 06:06 PM	#71
Fonix36 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: southern cali Age: 34 Posts: 2,457 Trader Rating: (34) Feedback Score: 34 reviews	hey im still having problems with the stupid tac i have tried everything i even fallowed each wire to make sure they wornt burnt or something __________________ DRiFT 4 A Cure!

10-19-2008, 08:13 PM	#76
FIlthy 24O Zilvia Junkie Join Date: May 2007 Location: hawaii nei-Gardena Age: 36 Posts: 511 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	BLU808 ur pm are full please pm me i have a question to ask about side job THANKS __________________ GARAGE BOSO...........ROOTS AND CULTURE

10-20-2008, 12:55 AM	#77
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 41 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Pm's cleared. __________________

10-04-2008, 01:53 PM	#61
SR2Zero Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SC Age: 34 Posts: 639 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/217262...fuel-rail.html

10-04-2008, 06:21 PM	#62
milesprwr Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Los Angeles Age: 38 Posts: 46 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Hiya, I noticed that my engine (KA24DE w/ ~111k miles) idles a little high despite the temperature of the engine. I used to have an S2K and whenever I started the engine cold, it idled high until the engine warmed up and settled down. In my '91 240, the idle will only go as low as ~1.1k RPM despite the fact that the engine is warmed up. Any ideas as to why it does this? What's normal for this engine to be idling at anyway?

10-04-2008, 06:32 PM	#63
Def Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,701 Trader Rating: (16) Feedback Score: 16 reviews	Normal without the AC on is 750 +/- 25 RPM I think. You can try turning the IACV screw in some, but my bet is you have a small vacuum leak on your intake manifold side(after the throttle body).

10-05-2008, 12:21 AM	#64
DLo Eric Zilvia Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Las Vegas Age: 37 Posts: 245 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: DLo Eric Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Hey Luke, I really appreciate your expertise that you share with everyone on zilvia. Not a lot of people give it out for free to strangers. On to my problem. This is something that has been happening for about 2 years and I've yet to figure it out. 3.5K+ hard engine vibrations. Followed with "glitching" cluster. (Would jump up/down slightly on all gauges ie fuel water temp RPMs and MPH) Any time, through any gear my engine would vibrate harshly from 3.5k and up which makes freeway driving over 65 mph unbearable. About a year ago it was at 4k+ RPMs and I was able to drive up to 80mph without this happening. Now it has dropped. I've gone through it and nothing is rubbing against anything nor are my mounts loose. However my harness in the wheel well has been rubbed up a few good times but were always rewired/tucked. SAFC and wideband isnt showing any spikes/dips in either AFR or knock. No Smoke out the back either. Current Setup: Blacktop SR (Redtop harness and ecu) T28 - SAFC - N60 Maf (have a N62 sitting around) (NGK Wideband) FMIC/full exhaust/Walbro/Splitfire coilpacks What could be causing this harsh vibration? is there any more info I can give you to help diagnose this?

10-05-2008, 02:07 AM	#66
milesprwr Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Los Angeles Age: 38 Posts: 46 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Thanks, I'll go ahead and check the lines for leaks. No, the check engine light is not on.

10-05-2008, 08:56 AM	#68
KasperSlide Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: North carolina Posts: 165 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok so i swap a manual s13 trans into a 95' auto s14. and as most know the speedo reads double the mph. so to rectify the problem i bought a s14 manual VSS. but it still is reading double the mph. soooooo..... anyone of you crazy kidz know what i can do. p.s. ive already searched and have pm'ed ppl that have had the same prob with no response nor were there post's answered.

10-05-2008, 01:12 PM	#70
trust187 Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SoCal Posts: 278 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Its great your doing this Luke. Well heres my problem, car battery died a couple of weeks ago, and I tried to jump it, but it seems I wired the cables or something wrong and all the electrical units in my car fried. Nothing electrical works except for the headlights so assuming my fuses are fried. The car still starts but the alternator does not charge the battery. I've changed the alternator and gotten a new battery since then, but the battery still does not get charged. Any ideas?

10-19-2008, 03:12 PM	#72
moses Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Jacksonville, ar Age: 37 Posts: 555 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: moses Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Hey i got a question. what setting should I use on my greddy profec spec 2 with a gt2871r? would it be the same settings as I had it on the stock turbo or little higher? also would you happen to know the stock psi on a gt2871r wastegate and do you know if a different turbo will make my greddy blow off valve sound different?

10-20-2008, 07:10 AM	#78
PBucch Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: miami beach Age: 39 Posts: 1,039 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: PBucch Feedback Score: 0 reviews	blu, how can I tell if my KA's AICV air regulator is good or not? I have it removed from the car. I have a multimeter to test it, thanks. __________________ section ef&ec changed my life

10-20-2008, 10:48 AM	#79
duffman1278 Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Covina Age: 36 Posts: 2,844 Trader Rating: (8) Rides Gallery: duffman1278 Feedback Score: 8 reviews	I've got a question, for some reason when I'm at a complete stop, or red light, my engine will idle fine and smooth for about 1-2min. after that the engine shakes and you can feel the whole car shake. I've checked for boost leaks with a DIY boost leak tester, and my vacuum lines are brand new. Can't seem to figure out whats causing it. What could be causing this?

10-20-2008, 09:20 PM	#80
whatda BANNED Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: 鷲岩 90041 Age: 33 Posts: 786 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	my fuse for the tail lights keeps on blowing every time i put in a new one every time i turn the head lights on the head lights only go on but not the gage cluster and the running lights the car is a 90's sohc with a ground kit thing please help its been like this for 4 moths

10-21-2008, 02:19 AM	#83
steve shadows Post Whore! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: LA and OC Posts: 8,202 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	emergency: what happened with the bonneville project!? __________________ Like Me on FaceBook !

10-23-2008, 09:53 PM	#84
Fonix36 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: southern cali Age: 34 Posts: 2,457 Trader Rating: (34) Feedback Score: 34 reviews	my bad i did __________________ DRiFT 4 A Cure!

10-25-2008, 10:31 AM	#85
RUTH'LESSDET Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: NYC Age: 44 Posts: 905 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Okay so basically Im running a 2006 gto ls2 in my 97 nissan 240sx but I need some help with my current setup because im getting to much fuel pressure(65-70psi) and I cant seem to "regulate" the pressure. Ill start by saying im running a walboro 255lph in tank pump/ into a 99+ vette fuel filter&reg/and one single line up the length of the car into a aeromotive fpr/and then into the rail(everything -6an) 2 lines from the tank and 1 single output up to the fpr and then the rail picture of line going toward the rail. This is an old picture of how the single line enters the fpr I have it coming in the left inlet and out the right inlet, and the return port blocked off.....And obviously this is the culperate but how should this part be changed? why is the pressure so high shouldn't the vette regulator/filter be doing its job? would entering through the left inlet port and out the return line port is this even possible? I need your expert advice Thanx in advance __________________ 91 Sil80-Sold, LS2 Powered 1997 240sx-Traded, 2005 350z-Sold, Whats next?

11-04-2008, 02:36 PM	#86
HunsakerS14 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Oly WA Age: 35 Posts: 446 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Yesterday morning I go to start my car and nothin. as if the batterys dead. tried again and made a clicking noise. I was the only one home so I tried push startin it. was unsuccesful. call my buddy up to have him come jump me and as hes pullin into my driveway I just try to start it for the hell of it and vrooom... starts perfectly. ran fine all day/night. get up this morning to go to work and try to start it, nothin again. try it again and only clicking. (luckily my mom was home so I barrowed her car...) I dont know if its just my battery/starter/alternator... so you got any ideas?

11-05-2008, 11:58 AM	#87
RUTH'LESSDET Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: NYC Age: 44 Posts: 905 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	hey luke whats good man no more help???? __________________ 91 Sil80-Sold, LS2 Powered 1997 240sx-Traded, 2005 350z-Sold, Whats next?

11-08-2008, 08:46 PM	#89
SR2Zero Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SC Age: 34 Posts: 639 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Ok, so I've finally got my sr to the point im ready to crank. I turned the motor over, fuel pump primes, and gas comes out from the bottom of my injectors. (They're yellow top, at the bottom where the cap isn't and the yellow is showing)Is it o-rings or what?

11-08-2008, 08:58 PM	#90
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 41 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	So. fuel was gushing out from where it meets the intake manifold? that is not good. For 1 fuel should not be getting past the lower o rings at all. that is low pressure, etc. Usually when an o ring goes bad it will be from where the injector meets the rail. BTW: ATTENTION EVERYONE. I have been getting over 100 Pm's a week about this free help. So here is what I am proposing. Please send me a donation to my paypal for my time. Only send me a donation if my advice resolves your problem. I dont care if it is $1 or $10. Thanks. Luke Paypal= [email protected] __________________