Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[codyace]

Originally Posted by doomviillain

I dropped my diff from the car and I notice the axle shafts just slip out
Prior to this the car drove fine, no noises, no leaks.

Its a kaaz 2 way lsd installed. I got it with the car.

The stub shafts on the diff, or out of the hubs?

[herbieS13]

Originally Posted by nismoracingsx

Different people post different numbers, I've read 400 rwhp is safe. Real high hp sr's can always use a z32 trans w/ adapter plate.

i've always heard 400whp is safe also but hp doesnt break transmissions torque does so i guess i should rephrase my Q to how much torque can a redtop transmission handle safely?

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by David48

Did you order the correct sized bushing? Is your car an S13 or 14? Base model, Se, or hicas? Different trim models came with different sized rear sway bars, so my bet is you have an incorrect bushing.

Base s13. And they were already on the car, i didn't buy them. I had the sway bar off because I was putting poly bushings in the arms and solid risers in my subframe.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by herbieS13

i've always heard 400whp is safe also but hp doesnt break transmissions torque does so i guess i should rephrase my Q to how much torque can a redtop transmission handle safely?

It's a relative question on how bad you'll be flogging her.

My car seems to eat a trans every 2 years, not so much in the gears themselves, but in the bearings. I think the high torque unload on track sometimes does that.

Drag race wise, guys have ate gears at 350, and guys making 500 are still ok...it's a combo of tire, launch rpm, clutch type, etc etc.

If it's just street driven, I don't see anything shy of 500 whp really damaging them.

[GL Chrillz]

I seem to have missplaced my nuts for the rear coilover to the knuckle somewhere in my messy garage. I'm going to check nissan later today, but while I'm on the computer does anyone know of the thread pitch on it so I can at least get something temporary on it in case I have to order them?

[Devens240]

Best Forum for wheels for My Infiniti G20t?

[soreballz]

Originally Posted by nismoracingsx

Thats a biased comment , when I was going to college, the auto trans dominated the track all day, and it looked like those guys sure loved it.

Originally Posted by codyace

What if TH400, big stall, big turbo...that's fun though

Oh come on now, you can't compare big power auto setups to what this kid will likely wind up with. 180-210whp in an automatic 240sx isn't the same as a 400+ whp automatic setup.

If you're going so fast that a stick shift is slowing you down, buy all means, go auto. But with a low boost KA? Grow a pair and shift that shit yourself.

[foxystyle]

So I ended up never ordering a pbm arm set because of losing my job.
But im going to start driving the s13 a lot soon and I don't want to wear out my tires.
Anyone have experience with that Godspeed gen2 ruca? It looks thicker than the generic shit, I just need a cheap disposable ruca from now till summer.

[David48]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

Base s13. And they were already on the car, i didn't buy them. I had the sway bar off because I was putting poly bushings in the arms and solid risers in my subframe.

There's not really a science to them. If it's really not working for you then just order new poly bushings for them as well and just remove the sway bar in the mean time.

[David48]

Originally Posted by Devens240

Best Forum for wheels for My Infiniti G20t?

google images

[Wake]

or maybe g20.net?

[daftphunk]

Small question indeed.

How many volts should my battery be drawing out (not sure if that's the correct term) when my car is off vs. when it's on? Typically, with a fluke meter, I am measuring out ~13V when the car is off. When the car is on, I USED to see something like ~14-15V. I also have an Apex'i Turbo timer that reads the battery voltage: it would be real low, like ~11 when the key was in the On position and once I turned it over it would go to about ~13.8. If I turned on my headlights before it would be ~12.8V

Today I just noticed on my turbo timer that it was at ~15.9V consistently, headlights on or off. I took the fluke meter to my battery and it was at ~17V!

Wondering if this is normal? My assumption is no, so it's gotten me a little concerned as to whether or not I am shorting out somewhere.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Devens240

Best Forum for wheels for My Infiniti G20t?

g20.net
SR20 Forum
SR20 Community Forum - The Dash - Powered by vBulletin

Originally Posted by soreballz

Oh come on now, you can't compare big power auto setups to what this kid will likely wind up with. 180-210whp in an automatic 240sx isn't the same as a 400+ whp automatic setup.

I know I was teasing him through you, I guess I didn't type it well though eeeek.

Originally Posted by foxystyle

So I ended up never ordering a pbm arm set because of losing my job.
But im going to start driving the s13 a lot soon and I don't want to wear out my tires.
Anyone have experience with that Godspeed gen2 ruca? It looks thicker than the generic shit, I just need a cheap disposable ruca from now till summer.

Anything this side of the SPL stuff is all the same to me (unless they use namebrand bearings, which 'm sure they do not) so get whatever is cheapest. ISIS actually has a warranty IIRC through Enjuku Racing.

[chiboy002]

how can i go about removing my freon at home?

i still have r12 in it, but need to remove the condenser and dont want that stuff all over my garage, plus i still need it for later

i have access to the actual machine, but that is somewhat last resort seeing as its heavy and i need to bring it from work to my house

[nismoracingsx]

Originally Posted by codyace

so get whatever is cheapest. ISIS actually has a warranty IIRC through Enjuku Racing.

Not that I don't have a few isis parts on my car, but if he's asking about rucas for use with coilovers, know that the isis ruca I had rubbed the shit out of my fortune auto coils . Sold those and bought fortune auto arms (duh, right?).

to the op, if you lost your job, and are considering buying godspeed arms to 'save tire wear' why not just raise your car up for now and use the stock ruca? Save your money till you get another job, mang.

[nismoracingsx]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

how can i go about removing my freon at home?

i still have r12 in it, but need to remove the condenser and dont want that stuff all over my garage, plus i still need it for later

i have access to the actual machine, but that is somewhat last resort seeing as its heavy and i need to bring it from work to my house

Considering r12 is quite valuable, I wouldn't let it go to waste . If anything, get it evacuated, sell it, and then convert to 134 for a profit.

Though I'm sure thats not your intent

I would just get the machine, you'll want to use it to fully evacuate the system again once you're done with the ac stuffs, so that theres no dirt in there to ruin components.

[JasianBlazin]

Distributor took a crap on me. Was wonderin if you need to find TDC when installing a replacement distributor?

[JaredP]

Originally Posted by daftphunk

Small question indeed.

How many volts should my battery be drawing out (not sure if that's the correct term) when my car is off vs. when it's on? Typically, with a fluke meter, I am measuring out ~13V when the car is off. When the car is on, I USED to see something like ~14-15V. I also have an Apex'i Turbo timer that reads the battery voltage: it would be real low, like ~11 when the key was in the On position and once I turned it over it would go to about ~13.8. If I turned on my headlights before it would be ~12.8V

Today I just noticed on my turbo timer that it was at ~15.9V consistently, headlights on or off. I took the fluke meter to my battery and it was at ~17V!

Wondering if this is normal? My assumption is no, so it's gotten me a little concerned as to whether or not I am shorting out somewhere.

with engine off battery should read ~12.6V, running it should be up between 13.8-14.2V with the alternator working. having it up around 16-17V is BAD and means your alternator is working too hard. check the wiring, something could be shorting it causing it to try to overcharge the battery or something inside the alt could be messed up as well

[daftphunk]

Yeah I figured it was an issue. Just kind of realized it was an alternator issue; been driving and at idle the voltage is about 13.8 or so, but as I drive, it climbs up to 15.9 and my headlights cut out. What could be my issue?! I'm not close to home and need to get there before I do anything... And I'm kind of far.

Only thing I can think of is that it's been raining really hard out here lately. Storms and stuff. Maybe it affected it?

Any input on what I should do and what to look for?

[S14DB]

The regulator on the alternator is going out. Time to save up to replace or rebuild it.

[herbieS13]

Originally Posted by S14DB

The regulator on the alternator is going out. Time to save up to replace or rebuild it.

now my turbo timer read a mid-high 15v higher rpms WOT, it never really did that before, and i have a brand new (reman) quest alternator (125amp) if thats still wrong where should i start looking to correct the problem?

[foxystyle]

to nismo and cody thanks for your input.
I did hear isis rucas rub most of the time.
Im on coilovers so i could raise it but i might get a cheap ruca so i can
remain looking cool and impressing highschool chicks from here till summer. sarcasam.

[killer240]

lol do u guys think the dealer would replace my seatbelt for free?
i have an S13 with S14 front belts, i know they will replace your seat belt for free if its not functional. has anyone tried?

or does anyone know how to make the seat belt retract faster?

[soreballz]

They'll replace the automatic seat belts for free. But you might be on your own since you don't have the stock seat belts.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by nismoracingsx

Considering r12 is quite valuable, I wouldn't let it go to waste . If anything, get it evacuated, sell it, and then convert to 134 for a profit.

Though I'm sure thats not your intent

I would just get the machine, you'll want to use it to fully evacuate the system again once you're done with the ac stuffs, so that theres no dirt in there to ruin components.

It was never my intention to sell the r12 lol, but i can considering I still use my a/c, have access to r134a easy, and can convert.

My question is, is there any way to do it WITHOUT the machine? Like a One-way hose that connects from the line to a tank, lets as much out, and then i cap the ends.

Like I said, i have another option here but i really don't want to haul that thing home, I dont have another car to throw it in and I don't want to walk it that far

[S-Nation S13]

Ignition problem

How do I narrow the problem is it my lock cylinder or my ignition switch?
I have to jiggle the shit out of entire unit while pushing the back of the ignition cylinder towards steering column just to start my car?

Pm me..please

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by herbieS13

now my turbo timer read a mid-high 15v higher rpms WOT, it never really did that before, and i have a brand new (reman) quest alternator (125amp) if thats still wrong where should i start looking to correct the problem?

I would say it's DOA. There is usually a higher than normal failure rate for remans. Why they come with a warranty. Swap it out for another.

Originally Posted by chiboy002

It was never my intention to sell the r12 lol, but i can considering I still use my a/c, have access to r134a easy, and can convert.

My question is, is there any way to do it WITHOUT the machine? Like a One-way hose that connects from the line to a tank, lets as much out, and then i cap the ends.

Like I said, i have another option here but i really don't want to haul that thing home, I dont have another car to throw it in and I don't want to walk it that far

The only thing you can legally do is evacuate it with the machine and ether refill it with the same R12 or sell it to a recycler/processor.

You need to suck it down to vac to get all the nasty shit out. May as well do it with the machine.

Make sure you swap the drier while you are at it. You will need to flush the R12 specific oil out if you are going to R134a.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by S14DB

The only thing you can legally do is evacuate it with the machine and ether refill it with the same R12 or sell it to a recycler/processor.

You need to suck it down to vac to get all the nasty shit out. May as well do it with the machine.

Make sure you swap the drier while you are at it. You will need to flush the R12 specific oil out if you are going to R134a.

Yeah I just saw those legalities, so dumb. I would need to swap out the drier even if i stuck with the r12?

The reason I'm doing this is cause I have to replace the rad support, cut out the old one and stuff, and the condenser is warped so I highly doubt I'll even be able to use it again, but I don't want r134a to be honest.

But alright, I'll just use that damn thing.

[JKL1031]

ayone know what size the nut for the EGR pipe that needs to be unbolted to clear the steering rack to pull the engine on an s13 header? A 24mm seems too big. Any other wrench i try is too small.

[daftphunk]

Weird thing though cause I had my alternator rebuilt before I put it in my car and that was about a year ago. Should still be covered under warranty though so I'll get that checked out tomorrow.

Thanks for input.