Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[WESamiss]

Google is turning up nothing but I'm still searching... next thing is looking at PN.

Is the KA24DE xterra/frontier/240sx HEAD interchangeable?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[zombiewolf513]

The only one thats not is for the altima

[Young Sileighty Kev]

FUEL PUMP NO POWER QUESTION.
So I got a s13. Was a shell then I put a stock ka in it. The car I got it from was running and I was there to pull it out. So my issue now is that my car won’t start but cranks. Don’t hear fuel pump priming, no fuel is in the lines.
What I’ve changed:
Fuel pump
Relays & fuses
Checked grounds
Fuel filter
Lines not clogged
Ecu is good
So what I ended up doing is wiring up a relay to get direct power from the battery to the fuel pump. And double checked the wiring to make sure it was good.
Went to start the car and it finally started. Idled for about 30 seconds and once I stepped on the gas, the car started to bog down then die. Started it up 2 more times and it eventually didn’t turn on again. Checked what was wrong and the fuel pump isn’t getting power again.
Anyways what could be the possible problems?

[Young Sileighty Kev]

Double post.......

[Alex Mcknz]

Is there anyone here who runs a set of Vision wheels on their 240SX? The 399 fury gloss black with green tint wheel looks stylish. I wonder if it will fit in a coupe since the majority of the photos on the internet with this rim are trucks and jeeps.

[zombiewolf513]

You should get them, then post a picture in the doing it wrong thread.

[SRSmith]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

How much are S14 OEM Kouki Metal Fenders going for right now?

Seem to usually be around $300 in my area. Since Covid haven't seen hardly any S-chassis and parts for reasonable prices

[SRSmith]

Wondering what is a safe boost for my stock internals SR20. Specs are as follows:

Redtop SR20
T3T4 turbo .63 trim
480cc side feed injectors
Z32 maf
SAFC II
Walbro 255
Tial 38mm currently has a 15 PSI spring

Its a daily driver, and I'm not looking to push the stock internals. I've heard below 330 HP is safe. Will I be getting close to that at 15 PSI, or should I go with a lighter spring to be safe?

Thanks as always

[S14rebuild]

10psi wastegate spring and a boost contrller, tune on a dyno and that will show u ur limit. Ur injectors are the limiting factor and obviously engine health

[inopsey]

there is no way to safely run that setup; you need proper tuning (not SAFC) , but do as you want, just know that cheapening out on tuning will mean a costly engine rebuild in the not too distant future.

Originally Posted by SRSmith

Wondering what is a safe boost for my stock internals SR20. Specs are as follows:

Redtop SR20
T3T4 turbo .63 trim
480cc side feed injectors
Z32 maf
SAFC II
Walbro 255
Tial 38mm currently has a 15 PSI spring

Its a daily driver, and I'm not looking to push the stock internals. I've heard below 330 HP is safe. Will I be getting close to that at 15 PSI, or should I go with a lighter spring to be safe?

Thanks as always

[brndck]

Originally Posted by SRSmith

Wondering what is a safe boost for my stock internals SR20. Specs are as follows:

15 psi will be too much, esp if the only thing you have to tune it is a SAFC.
If you were running a reflash ecu, or dyno tuned standalone, and hi octane fuel (like 100 or higher, or e85), i'd say you could get away with 15 psi.

on the setup you listed, you're pushing your luck.

[SRSmith]

Awesome, thanks everyone

Found out my spring is actually 13 PSI, but I'm sure I'm better with lower. I'll get something in the 8-10 range. I'm sure that's plenty of boost to get me into the fun range.

[deolio]

Originally Posted by Alex Mcknz

the majority of the photos on the internet with this rim are trucks and jeeps.

Probably because they're truck wheels... If you don't know what you're doing, hold off on modifying your car

[Young Sileighty Kev]

Originally Posted by Young Sileighty Kev

FUEL PUMP NO POWER QUESTION.
So I got a s13. Was a shell then I put a stock ka in it. The car I got it from was running and I was there to pull it out. So my issue now is that my car won?t start but cranks. Don?t hear fuel pump priming, no fuel is in the lines.
What I?ve changed:
Fuel pump
Relays & fuses
Checked grounds
Fuel filter
Lines not clogged
Ecu is good
So what I ended up doing is wiring up a relay to get direct power from the battery to the fuel pump. And double checked the wiring to make sure it was good.
Went to start the car and it finally started. Idled for about 30 seconds and once I stepped on the gas, the car started to bog down then die. Started it up 2 more times and it eventually didn?t turn on again. Checked what was wrong and the fuel pump isn?t getting power again.
Anyways what could be the possible problems?

Any idea guys???

[SRSmith]

So you checked for power with a test light or multimeter?
If so, can you check for continuity in the wires?
you sure all your injectors are running?
Finally, any codes on the ecu?

[brndck]

Originally Posted by Young Sileighty Kev

Any idea guys???

order a power probe.

or, get a multimeter and make 100% sure that you have power and ground, at the fuel pump. If you do, the pump is dead. If you don't, figure out WHY.

[silviaks2nr]

S14 LHD chassis. Which wiper arm corresponds to driver and passenger. They are stamped A and D but no actual part number to cross reference, and discontinued from production. Thanks.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by brndck

order a power probe.

Some of the best advice ever given.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Some of the best advice ever given.

seriously, that one tool has saved me so much time, and made me so much money in diagnosis.

plenty of other brands / options available too

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GPS6KV...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P1FV2FJ...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[Agamemnon]

Originally Posted by silviaks2nr

S14 LHD chassis. Which wiper arm corresponds to driver and passenger. They are stamped A and D but no actual part number to cross reference, and discontinued from production. Thanks.

D will be driverside, A will be passenger side.

[mechanicalmoron]

Not the same thing, but a wireless circuit tester is well worth having.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumat...omotive&sr=1-1

[silviaks2nr]

Originally Posted by Agamemnon

D will be driverside, A will be passenger side.

Thank you sir!

[hellion240sx]

Looking to do a front brake upgrade. (S14 5 lug)
Leaned towards the pbm Z32 fronts, but now changing mind to the 96 Q45 calipers.
I've read various responses. For rears, some one said z31 would be better for mc, then someone said z32.
Should rear calipers be upgraded as well?
Some said Altima rotors and better pads. A little confused as to what route to take now.

[S14rebuild]

^^^^^
Z32 fronts are the way to go..more then enough brake there.

Rear brakes either a full z32 setup(with park brake assembly) ull need r33 ebrake cables

If u go altima rotors ull need z31 caliper brackets(forgot which year as certain yr is unsafe brake pads fall out after some wear) this setup will allow u to keep stock caliper and parking brake.

Z32 bmc is all u need

[hellion240sx]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

^^^^^
Z32 fronts are the way to go..more then enough brake there.

Rear brakes either a full z32 setup(with park brake assembly) ull need r33 ebrake cables

If u go altima rotors ull need z31 caliper brackets(forgot which year as certain yr is unsafe brake pads fall out after some wear) this setup will allow u to keep stock caliper and parking brake.

Z32 bmc is all u need

Oh I wanted to mention I'm getting 15s. I dont think 15s are an option with the z32 calipers

[zombiewolf513]

just keep the stock calipers, paint em and buy better pads like hawk hps with some slotted rotors from summit. wont even need to take em off. get braided wilwood lines if you feel like getting cancerfluid on your hands.

[My!]

what does a fair condition s14 sr20 longblock go for? 145 compression except for cylinder 3, it's at 140psi. needs a timing chain job soon for sure but otherwise it's fine; 10% leakdown but i forget from which side

[TheRealSy90]

That sounds like an engine in desperate need of new rings and a refresh. I wouldn't even waste time putting an sr in that had less than 150-160 in a cylinder.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by My!

what does a fair condition s14 sr20 longblock go for? 145 compression except for cylinder 3, it's at 140psi. needs a timing chain job soon for sure but otherwise it's fine; 10% leakdown but i forget from which side

A full swap, ready to go? Excusable, I guess.

In the car? Let 'er ride.

Longblock? Closer to the "garbage" end of the spectrum, than "fair", those are pretty minimum almost-acceptable numbers.

Dunno what it's worth, but it would be dishonest to call it fair without at least providing all that info.

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by My!

what does a fair condition s14 sr20 longblock go for? 145 compression except for cylinder 3, it's at 140psi. needs a timing chain job soon for sure but otherwise it's fine; 10% leakdown but i forget from which side

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

That sounds like an engine in desperate need of new rings and a refresh. I wouldn't even waste time putting an sr in that had less than 150-160 in a cylinder.

i had identical compression numbers for my blacktop before i put a gt3071 on it in 2010. checked the numbers again last summer and was shocked since they were identical, but had put over 40 000km on the engine with the turbo (18 psi making 368 whp on pump fuel ). the car sees redline every time its taken out. engine doesent/never burn oil or smoked etc either. take numbers off a guage with a grain of salt.....those numbers are fine for a sr20 engine in my experience.