Official ask Farzam a question thread!

[Farzam]

There is a great thread in the FAQ/Archives section of the forum on the conversion.

And honestly, just do a compression test and look at the car. I just ended up with an auto cause all convertibles are and cause I got a deal on it.

If you see a good deal on an auto, do it.

If you see a good deal on a manual, do it.

Just work around what you get, don't limit yourself.

[Zero-Offset]

thanks a lot! my search continues.

[Farzam]

Try Craigslist out if you haven't already...I know they have it in Vancouver so why not British Columbia.

*.craigslist.org

* is basically a big city by you.

For me it's www.raleigh.craigslist.org

Capish?

[TheS13kid]

ok. so my car is making this nasty ass clanking noise. It makes it when i start up the car but then it goes away in a matter of seconds. I drive the car, i stop and go. For the first 10 to 15 min, when i come to a stop and the car idles around 800 rpm its doenst make the clanking noise. But as the car gets a bit warmer, it raddles till you rev it to 2000 rpm. If i stop at a light, it makes the noise, as i take off, it will raddle till i get passed 2000 rpm..after 200rpm its all good. What can be the problem?

Thanx in advance.

[Farzam]

What kind of noise? Where exactly is the noise coming from (have a friend rev and put your head in the engine bay or something)?

Are you familiar with timing chain rattle? Are you familiar with rod knock?

I don't have enough information to feel comfortable providing an answer.

[TheS13kid]

What kind of noise? Where exactly is the noise coming from (have a friend rev and put your head in the engine bay or something)?

Are you familiar with timing chain rattle? Are you familiar with rod knock?

I don't have enough information to feel comfortable providing an answer.

Well the noise sounds like its coming from underneath the car.
But i went under the car and nothing seemed to be loose.
The car doesnt even have to be revd in order for you to hear the noise.
The noise sounds like something is loose, kinda like metal hitting metal.

Im not familiar with timing chain rattle or rod knock. please explain!

actually someone told me, it could be that the timing chain is loose? is that an easy problem to fix?

[Farzam]

Did the person who tell you that hear it personally? Are they trustworthy?

Do you have much experience in the s-chassis platforms?

Timing chain rattle is very common and it sounds like a little clicky-esque noise. It's caused by the upper timing chain guide, I believe. Nothing really horrible, i've seen maybe 2 S13 that didn't have it.

When was the last time you changed your timing chain? It could also be that your timing chain is loose/old and sucky. Hah, I make your timing chain sound like a prostitute.

Many many many things rattle and unless the car is in front of me, I don't want to act like I KNOW what's going on, all I can do is give you a guess. Take your car to a trusted professional and see what they say. You're in LA, i'm sure there are at least 2 or 3 shops that can tell what's up with a KA.

A million things can cause weird noises...

Heat shields, fuel injectors, relays, spun bearings, cams, timing chains, timing chain guides, timing chain tensioners, dying animals, etc. That's basically motor things alone.

These are old cars, you have to keep that in mind.

LMK what's going on if/when you find out.

[Farzam]

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/7...c5454006bf.htm

Listen, halfway through the video or so you hear a little noise. Is that like what you have?

Special thanks for punxva for taking that video for the "Who's got the best sounding car?" thread and I hope he does not mind me using his clip for another purpose. PM me if you want it removed.

[cgtdream]

got a question...im redoin my wheels and brakes on my 240, but on a tight budget..so far im replacing the rotors,rebuilding the calipers, and getting new brake pads..on a car that is nearly 12 years old, with the past 2 of them sitting out in the elements, would you replace the wheel bearings as well?

[Jon Michael]

Hmmm, got another one. Like I said I am aiming for around 200rwhp with my turbo setup. Now, I'm not going to really be pushing the car at all. No drifting, or anything, just a little spirited driving now and then. Do you think this warrants any major brake upgrades (big brake upgrade??), besides getting high performance rotors and brake pads in the stock size? So basically, would big brakes be overkill?

[yokotas13]

big brakes would definitely be overkill

just get some Z32s

[Jon Michael]

Aren't z32's a big brake upgrade, as well?

[yokotas13]

not really
supra brakes are a big upgrade

z32 is like mediocre

[Farzam]

Originally Posted by cgtdream

got a question...im redoin my wheels and brakes on my 240, but on a tight budget..so far im replacing the rotors,rebuilding the calipers, and getting new brake pads..on a car that is nearly 12 years old, with the past 2 of them sitting out in the elements, would you replace the wheel bearings as well?

2 words I use all the time, but are the worst things ever; tight budget. I have next to know money, I know how it is...but you're way better off waiting until you have enough money or getting mommy to lend you some money than being cheap. I've waited 3 months to buy a dang exhaust so I could pass inspection, patience is a virtue and it will pay off well in the end!

Go to Autozone and get calipers/rotors through them, I believe they give you money back if you give them your old stuff, or it may be Advanced Auto Parts. Make a quick phone call to both of them and then maybe other local stores and see what they do about that, it might only be a local thing for me.

IMO for rotors, I always get Brembo blanks. I read an article about how blank rotors work better than drilled/slotted which is basically for looks and cause back in the day for brake dust-related issues. F1 cars use blanks last time I checked, why wouldn't you (and ironically Brembo makes most F1 car brakes)?

If you can call a few local shops and see what they can do for you, that'd be cool. My father is a business owner and I know how smaller businesses always need the most support, as well as usually caring more about the customer.

As far as brake pads, it really depends on what you want to do with the car. Don't look for the best brake pads out w/ the most stopping power, but for the best brake pads for the amount of stopping power you feel the need for. If you're a drifter and you have a super badass brake system, you'd have to get used to the more immediately braking, and you'd probably have to be lighter on the brakes, but if you used a brake pad that's just right, you could overpower it and do your cool drifty manuevers.

While you're at it, get some brake lines (Goodridge is what I use by default), and make sure you bleed it out well and check everything twice over.

Wheel bearings are cheap; why not do it? Seriously brah, you don't even really need to buy a bearing packer (which are what, like $10?). Get your wheel off, hub off, everything out the way, take out the old bearing, unpackage the new bearing, and follow these steps.

My MS paint skills are amazing, I know.


Note: I do it this super old school way cause I really like wiping my hands off on myself and then going home and getting an extra special dinner from my mommy...and it just makes my work clothes look badass.

[Farzam]

Originally Posted by Jon Michael

Hmmm, got another one. Like I said I am aiming for around 200rwhp with my turbo setup. Now, I'm not going to really be pushing the car at all. No drifting, or anything, just a little spirited driving now and then. Do you think this warrants any major brake upgrades (big brake upgrade??), besides getting high performance rotors and brake pads in the stock size? So basically, would big brakes be overkill?

Like G-dogg said, Z32 brakes are right up your alley.

Big brakes would be kinda dumb.

It'd be kinda ironic to only run that much power and want huge brakes.

[yokotas13]

So farzam

why do people say that the length of the intercooler piping really matters

and furthermore can you find hte formula that actually calculates the time to pressurize X legth of pipe to support your claim?

[mrmephistopheles]

re: the 'big brake' conundrum
the only way brake upgrades are useful is if they're done right.
Doing a complete Z32 brake swap is good, fronts-only is bad.
Do it right the first time, don't half-ass.
You'd be amazed how nice stock brakes can be with new rotors, high-friction pads, some stainless lines and fresh fluid.

[Farzam]

Well, before I touch base with your question, i'd like to remind people what exactly an intercooler does, and teach those readers who have no idea. I will try and keep this basic, since this isn't NASA.

In intercooler is sort of like a radiator, except it has air go through the outside as well as the inside. Intake air goes through the core, and air outside goes across fins. It's a heat transfer, neither touch but heat is exchanged.

Intercoolers help make power safer so you can make more power overall. It cools the pressurized air that the turbo makes before it gets into the engine itself. If you're running 9psi, the intercooler will provide 9psi of COOLER air, which has more air molecules/is denser than warm air, which generally means more power and a lesser chance of detonation.

Anyways, back to what Grant asked.

It makes no difference.

Here is a site with the formulas, just get the values and do it up to find out.

http://www.pipeflowcalculations.com/...drop/index.htm

[yokotas13]

woot for farzam



how do you read a compressor map for a turbo?

[fliprayzin240sx]

I got a question. Who the fuck is Farsam and who made him ALL KNOWING???

[yokotas13]

google did bitch

you gonna buy my coils?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by yokotas13

google did bitch

you gonna buy my coils?

Not sure yet, got a million things still missing in the house. If you still have it when i have extra money, then i will snag it.

Just remember that feeling of moving into a house with absolutely nothing in it cuz TMO only let you play with 2000 lbs and its still in a container somewhere in the pacific? The wifes making me fix that problem right now...and she wants a FUCKING DOG!!!

[yokotas13]

i got 2,000 lbs

sent 3800 and never got a bill

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by yokotas13

i got 2,000 lbs

sent 3800 and never got a bill

Shiet, my luck is not as great as yours. They will find out and nail me royally at the worst possible time. It happend before with my BAS, and itll happen again.

[Farzam]

Note: Special thanks to Def on bimmerforums for his post on there. I didn't remember too much of this and his guide definitely filled gaps for me. He's actually a 240sx owner, I wouldn't be suprised if he popped up on here and took a shit on me for mooching off his guide.

Compressor map time!

Yet again, a little background information.

A turbine is the "hot side" of a turbocharger. Exhaust gasses go through it, then expand and spin the turbine wheel that drives the compressor shaft.

Compressor is the "cold side" which sucks in intake air and compresses so the engine can combust it.

Surge is the absolute lowest amount of air a compressor will supply at a certain ratio of pressure, and anything above this will make your compressor "gulp" air...which isn't good for your turbo/power, but from what I understand you would have to have a HUGE compressor and tiny turbine to be concerned with gulping.



x-axis is mass air of the compressor

y-axis is the pressure ratio(x in the equation below);
Atmosphere Pressure+Boost Pressure= X
Atmospheric Pressure

Ratio of 1.0 is atmospheric pressure, normal dookie that gravity does on it's own.
2.0 is equivalent to ~14.7psi in your IM.

Usually by default I say the pressure is ambient at the compressor's inlet. Pressure drops result in less power than mass flowrates would suggest.

Those cool looking rings are effiency islands. This is where the compressor has about the same efficiency at compressing air. You guessed it, the higher the efficiency, the better cause there will be less unnecessary heat provided to the charge air by the compressor.

4 main things;
The motor's displacement
The volumetric efficiency (engine "breathing")
Pressure at your inlet valves (the boost, ya big dummy)
Teh RPMz reached

Changing any of the four above things will usually yield more combustion and generally more power.

If this is brief, please tell me.

[Farzam]

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

I got a question. Who the fuck is Farsam and who made him ALL KNOWING???

It's Farzam, and it's my first name.

[Howard92884]

Should I swap the RB20 or the SR into my S13? Money is not really a problem just wanting an opinion.

[Chez]

Should I go with a 1.5 way rear end or a 2.0 way? I like drifting but I want

the car to be a road course car in a year or so.

[Farzam]

Originally Posted by Howard92884

Should I swap the RB20 or the SR into my S13? Money is not really a problem just wanting an opinion.

If you can afford an SR, you can afford an RB25, which is better than both motors.

But that's my opinion based on what I would want with a car.

[Farzam]

Originally Posted by Chez

Should I go with a 1.5 way rear end or a 2.0 way? I like drifting but I want

the car to be a road course car in a year or so.

Do you know the difference?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm

Read that and it should help you learn some more so you can make the decision on your own.

IMO for a road race car i'd look for a helical LSD.

A helical biases torque from one side to the other side, and are capable of transfering more torque to the wheel that has traction, which is why they're so cool.