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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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05-29-2007, 09:05 AM | #96 |
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oh and the yellow mating mark on the chain goes on the crank right...and the 2 black marks are for the cam sprockets right
when my bearings and headgasket get here i will start rebuilding...and pictures Last edited by benefitx; 05-29-2007 at 09:28 AM.. |
05-29-2007, 09:41 AM | #97 |
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how will i know if my oil pump is dead or not??
i put some oil in it and put it on my old crank and spun it around...oil came out the other side so... |
05-29-2007, 11:29 AM | #98 |
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some more pics
when i took out the engine... engine sitting on a little trolley pulled off the intake/exhaust mani's The bare block turned around...im building this on the floor..no engine stand ...2 of my friends offered for me to borrow theirs but idk never got around to it... The table of the entire bottom end waiting to be put in after my ACL bearings get here... My room with the entire top half of the engine...yes this is where i sleep. A drawer full of ziplock baggies labeled with parts to exactly where the go on the engine. over 40 bags. my dresser with parts from the engine bay (intercooler piping, strut bar , heater hoses and alternator/starter) the upper oil pan...cleaned the outside with Engine Brite degreaser and the inside with gasoline...did the same with the lower oil pan also..gas..(this is below the table with the bottom end parts, radiator,driveshaft and shroud are sitting around here too) |
05-29-2007, 12:59 PM | #99 |
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just have 2 questions
1) For the timing chain , the 2 black mating marks are for the cam sprockets and the yellow one is for the crank right? 2) how would i know my oil pump is dead which was the cause of bearing failure?? i put oil in the pump and spun it around a couple times and oil did shoot out the other side... |
05-30-2007, 12:10 PM | #102 | |
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Quote:
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06-02-2007, 04:30 PM | #103 |
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ok so no one has asked my question that if the yellow mark on the timing chain is for the crank...
ok i just assembled the whole bottom end...got my bearings in today and put it all together...plastigage read .002 in on each bearing... torqued down the crank main and rod caps to specs and the crank is still so hard to spin, what gives?? |
06-02-2007, 09:41 PM | #104 |
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with much effort...2 of my buddies holding down the block and me with a BMFBB i got it to go to TDC...now i just have to wait for the head gasket that i just ordered to get here maybe Wednesday...any other things i have to do when i start her up
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06-08-2007, 09:10 PM | #108 |
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ok the whole entire engine is put together....its already in the engine bay...
i am having problems getting both engine mounts on...i get one on but the other one is hard to get on...and theres no way to drop them both at the same time..is there any trick to this...when i swapped my old ka it was easy but damn...ive been trying for almost 2 hours with 3 friends + me |
06-08-2007, 10:34 PM | #110 |
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wiggle it wiggle it wiggle it. that;s how you always do it. get some man power and pry bars. get the bitch on. it;s only a KA shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to drop in.
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06-08-2007, 10:51 PM | #111 |
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get one mount, "just in" and push the bottom TIP (not the threads) of the other mount to line it up. Lower it as you are lining it up, and it should "fall into place".
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06-08-2007, 10:53 PM | #112 |
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Are you dropping in the motor with the transmission or without...
I had the same problem getting my motor in but I just muscled it in... So I don't have any secrets there... As for your other questions 1. I don't know the mating marks for SR timing... 2. You can't check the oil pump outside of the engine... You would need to have the engine running and have an oil pressure gauge... If the pressure is below whatever the FSM says, you must replace... 3. The crank was difficult for me to turn also after I assembled the motor but I just used a breaker bar to make the first turn and then it turned from there... The next day it was stiff again so I did the same thing... After a while it will loosen up... 4. I used Nissan OEM oil filter, Castrol GTX, NGK copper plugs, Redline Shockproof tranny fluid, and distilled water to turn the engine on... After I am sure there are no leaks and everything works I am going to switch to Honda coolant but everything remains... I'll change the oil and filter out after 500 miles though... Good luck... keep us updated... |
06-09-2007, 01:07 AM | #114 |
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ok well i just said screw the one motor mount (drivers side)...its just like sitting on top of the bolt...ill try when i have like 6-7 of my buddies lol...NEW PROBLEM THOUGH...i wired everything in...
im not even getting power on interior and if i turn on my headlights , its like permanent sleepy eye, they wont even go up and they are just lit.i exchanged the battery with one i had laying around (im running a optima redtop anyways , dry cell) still nothing...had my bro jump start it , nothing. i try and start it , no power to NOTHING...just "click, click, click" thought i blew i fuse , but only one was broken in the engine bay fuse box it was the "engine comp" fuse...replaced it , still nothing... fuel pump is pumping...didnt check for spark but i dont think it is...and the starter is not doing anything... and some teaser pics |
06-09-2007, 09:29 AM | #117 |
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its not a swap , the car used to run before this...i just took the sr out and rebuilt it so in theory it should just start up after i connect everything...
i was just way too tired to troubleshoot it last night...but it still doesnt make any sense why im not getting interior power |
06-09-2007, 09:44 AM | #118 |
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did you check your main grounds? Never know.
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06-09-2007, 10:09 AM | #119 |
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try a different starter and maybe a alternator - check to make sure you have everything connected - correctly! Dont just say well I know I hooked it up right - check it agin closley! replace fuses - they are cheap! Thats where I would start. And also check to see if you have spark - you said you havent done that yet.
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