All motor 240 ideas.

[kapowerhicomp1]

my plans to run e85 gas and retune ecu ,injectors 272 bc cam.........easy 230++on 11:1 compression....... E85 is 105 oct. $3.50g

[Def]

Right... Good luck with that one.

It's probably not half as easy as you are thinking it is. 230 whp from an NA KA and staying together for a relatively long street life is probably almost impossible.

[water]

Originally Posted by g6civcx

While I agree with you, if the OP has the budget and wants to do it, why should we stop him?

I'm not stopping anything. All he has to do is fork over $6500.00 The rest is just

[timster]

Originally Posted by irax

--

Oh the wonders of bore / stroke / coinciding revability. <- sweet word.

But yeah dude, I agree with you. I saw N/A options, not N/A ka-(d)e options. Figured I'd stick up for the end I liked, considering I've driven stock and mildly built cars in all three categories.

Nice analogy by the way.

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by water

How many street cars have made over 200whp w/ a KA? 1, right?

How long have ppl been messing with KAs? 10+ years?

This should tell you that, in all likely hood, 180~190whp is about as good as its gonna get.

Speculation about race engines NONE of you will ever own is retarded. Especially considering that with a 13.5:1 CR, you'll need to run race gas. And get frequent rebuilds.

Why do you think it is so difficult to make 200 hp with a KA? Do a mild build on the bottom end, get it balanced and blueprinted, spend the REAL money on the head/intake manifold, get a good ECU and get it tuned well, and just the normal bolt ons from there (intake, exhaust, headers, etc...), and there is your 200hp. It's not that complicated, you just have to pick the right cams and get a good tune. Most people who build KA's for 240's are doing budget builds, not full builds. That is why you do not see very many 200+ hp KA's. Not because it is really complicated or terribly difficult, but because people like YOU do not think that it is worth it. If you don't like it and would rather spend your money on a golden turd SR then go ahead and do it. Just shut the fuck up about things that you don't really know about. If you really think that a GT3 spec KA is the ultimate KA and it can't get better than that you are an idiot. They are restricted to only the singlecam (which doesn't flow as good as the DE), they are restricted on the throttlebody bore size that they run, and they are restricted to stockish bore and stock stroke. Without those restrictions I am willing to bet that you could push 400hp out of a N/A ka with a huge budget.

EDIT: You are a fucking douche for neg repping me for my dyno numbers from like 3 years ago! WTF is wrong with you? Post up your dyno numbers bitch!

[timster]

Originally Posted by racepar1

Sorry dude, but an LS1 engine with trans, clutch and flywheel, and all pumps and accessories weighs significantly less than a KA with all the same stuff on it.



You have to build boost with a turbo motor, NOT vacuum with a N/A motor. You have it backwards. Well built/tuned N/A motors are known for razor sharp throttle response. As for the title of the thread it is a bit misleading, if you take the time to read the first post you will see that the OP is only interested in all motor KA ideas, NOT an argument over what is the best N/A motor to swap in. The bottom line is that there is NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT. The REALLY hardcore turbo KA's that I have seen make more power and torque than any of the REALLY hardcore SR's that I have seen. This is because of the larger displacement. More displacement means the motor can spool a bigger turbo faster, which means a better power/torque curve and more overall hp. The other advantages that the KA have are:

1: Iron block- An iron block is more durable and handles high cylinder pressures and heat better. This means more boost or compression.

2: More reliable valvetrain- Since the KA's have the cams pushing directly on the bucket lifters instead of the stupid SR rocker arms there are less moving parts and less potential problems.

Dude, I was COMPLETELY bullshitting you. Holy shit. I quit.

E-Sarcasm doesn't work.

Thanks for explaining how a turbo vs. N/A engine works, though. Can you explain what the windshield wipers do next?

[kapowerhicomp1]

Originally Posted by racepar1

Why do you think it is so difficult to make 200 hp with a KA? Do a mild build on the bottom end, get it balanced and blueprinted, spend the REAL money on the head/intake manifold, get a good ECU and get it tuned well, and just the normal bolt ons from there (intake, exhaust, headers, etc...), and there is your 200hp. It's not that complicated, you just have to pick the right cams and get a good tune. Most people who build KA's for 240's are doing budget builds, not full builds. That is why you do not see very many 200+ hp KA's. Not because it is really complicated or terribly difficult, but because people like YOU do not think that it is worth it. If you don't like it and would rather spend your money on a golden turd SR then go ahead and do it. Just shut the fuck up about things that you don't really know about. If you really think that a GT3 spec KA is the ultimate KA and it can't get better than that you are an idiot. They are restricted to only the singlecam (which doesn't flow as good as the DE), they are restricted on the throttlebody bore size that they run, and they are restricted to stockish bore and stock stroke. Without those restrictions I am willing to bet that you could push 400hp out of a N/A ka with a huge budget.

EDIT: You are a fucking douche for neg repping me for my dyno numbers from like 3 years ago! WTF is wrong with you? Post up your dyno numbers bitch!

yup............................................... ......thats right

[timster]

Originally Posted by racepar1

Why do you think it is so difficult to make 200 hp with a KA? Do a mild build on the bottom end, get it balanced and blueprinted, spend the REAL money on the head/intake manifold, get a good ECU and get it tuned well, and just the normal bolt ons from there (intake, exhaust, headers, etc...), and there is your 200hp. It's not that complicated, you just have to pick the right cams and get a good tune. Most people who build KA's for 240's are doing budget builds, not full builds. That is why you do not see very many 200+ hp KA's. Not because it is really complicated or terribly difficult, but because people like YOU do not think that it is worth it. If you don't like it and would rather spend your money on a golden turd SR then go ahead and do it. Just shut the fuck up about things that you don't really know about. If you really think that a GT3 spec KA is the ultimate KA and it can't get better than that you are an idiot. They are restricted to only the singlecam (which doesn't flow as good as the DE), they are restricted on the throttlebody bore size that they run, and they are restricted to stockish bore and stock stroke. Without those restrictions I am willing to bet that you could push 400hp out of a N/A ka with a huge budget.

By then it's not much of a KA anymore.. so why do it, unless you're a crazy KA fanboi. Even with that amount of work you can have a different engine that will perform better, and far more reliably, for a cheaper cost. But whatever, do what you will.

Lol and you guys fail for the negative repping. I'm not entitled to express my opinions? At least I don't throw around a slew of swear words like a few of you scholars.

[infinitexsound]

a micrometer, few companies parts book with specs, grind you own cam, new pistons,headwork.... 200 is feasible.... with itb easy and 200 is safe...

since when did building anything performance wise, made something last long...

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by timster

By then it's not much of a KA anymore.. so why do it, unless you're a crazy KA fanboi. Even with that amount of work you can have a different engine that will perform better, and far more reliably, for a cheaper cost. But whatever, do what you will.

Lol and you guys fail for the negative repping. I'm not entitled to express my opinions? At least I don't throw around a slew of swear words like a few of you scholars.

How is it any less of a KA? It is no longer a KA because it is badass or something? How much do SR fanboys spend for 250bhp (which translates to 200 or LESS hp at the wheels)? What makes a well done 200 or so hp KA unreliable and how do you know it is any cheaper with another motor? You are entitled to express your opinions, but WE are entitled to neg rep you and tell you that we think you are an idiot if that is OUR opinion. ESPECIALLY if you can provide no actual factual argument or numbers to back yourself up.

[PoorMans180SX]

I think you guys are getting a little crazy in this thread.

I'm thinking 200whp is possible, but much beyond that is speculation for a street build. In order to make more power, you're not going to want to stroke it, because that will kill the revs, and you'll need those, especially with the big cams they make for the KA. You'll have to get custom cams from Crower or somebody if you want to make big NA power with the the ultra-low rpm 2.6liter KA.

In fact, you'll probably want to move the wrist pin farther up in the piston, and use longer rods for a better rod ratio. Ring lands don't have to be as thick in an NA engine as in turbo engines.

Obviously up the compression ratio to 11:1 or so. Maybe a little higher if you plan to run E85. But hey, you'll need custom pistons if you want to move the wrist pin anyway.

You'll want to bore it out a little, obviously. Just don't go too far, or the combustion chamber will need a serious working over.

Streamline the ports, get bigger valves, and most likely get a custom intake manifold, or ITB's if that's what you want to do. just make sure you size the runner's length and width right. Do some research on that.

I would then coat the combustion chambers, piston crowns, and exhaust ports with SwainTechs TBC. Yes, it's proven to make more power, because it keeps more heat in the combustion chamber, instead of transferring to your head. Your engine will also run cooler as a result.

Get a metal head gasket. It's just common sense.

Then you're going to want (at least) a DC sports racing header. If you're big into the NA, then getting a custom one will probably yield better gains, especially if you have ITB's, different cams, and bigger ports. Cams dictate a lot of header design. I would ceramic coat that just because it keeps the engine bay a little cooler, which is important, especially if you're running ITB's with no air ducting.

Then, a full 3 inch exhaust would be a good choice, especially since you should be flowing a lot more air than a stock KA, and even stock KA's love 3 inch exhausts. If you want to be nice to the environment, you could run a 3 inch catalytic converter as well.

I think that would probably net you around 225+whp. You have to remember the DOHC KA only makes about 130ish whp stock. Also, these are the same things you would do to any engine if you were building it to make more power. It's really not that hard. There is no magic to making the KA make more power.

Or you could put all that money and a little more into an RWD SR20DE, swap a VE head on it, and make 250whp. I'm just saying.

I also like how this thread started with someone asking about gearing and header flanges.

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

I think you guys are getting a little crazy in this thread.

I'm thinking 200whp is possible, but much beyond that is speculation for a street build. In order to make more power, you're not going to want to stroke it, because that will kill the revs, and you'll need those, especially with the big cams they make for the KA. You'll have to get custom cams from Crower or somebody if you want to make big NA power with the the ultra-low rpm 2.6liter KA.

In fact, you'll probably want to move the wrist pin farther up in the piston, and use longer rods for a better rod ratio. Ring lands don't have to be as thick in an NA engine as in turbo engines.

The thing about the BC 2.65 litre stroker crank is that it is balanced. There should be no problem with 7,000 rpm with that crank and that is plenty of RPM. Since crower makes the stroker kit I am sure they have off the shelf cams for that application as well. Big power is not the most important thing if you are building a N/A ka because the turbo motors will always have an advantage over you there. You wanna concentrate on what the turbos DON'T have, and that is torque and engine response. A stroker kit will significantly increase torque and response and that is where a N/A motor shines. If you bore the shit out of it as well and re-do the combustion chambers a bit that will help the rod ratio and square the motor up a bit more. From my experience with longrods on the 4AG's it really doesn't make much of a difference and can be a pain in the ass.

Obviously up the compression ratio to 11:1 or so. Maybe a little higher if you plan to run E85. But hey, you'll need custom pistons if you want to move the wrist pin anyway.

You'll want to bore it out a little, obviously. Just don't go too far, or the combustion chamber will need a serious working over.

Streamline the ports, get bigger valves, and most likely get a custom intake manifold, or ITB's if that's what you want to do. just make sure you size the runner's length and width right. Do some research on that.

I would then coat the combustion chambers, piston crowns, and exhaust ports with SwainTechs TBC. Yes, it's proven to make more power, because it keeps more heat in the combustion chamber, instead of transferring to your head. Your engine will also run cooler as a result.

Get a metal head gasket. It's just common sense.

Then you're going to want (at least) a DC sports racing header. If you're big into the NA, then getting a custom one will probably yield better gains, especially if you have ITB's, different cams, and bigger ports. Cams dictate a lot of header design. I would ceramic coat that just because it keeps the engine bay a little cooler, which is important, especially if you're running ITB's with no air ducting.

Then, a full 3 inch exhaust would be a good choice, especially since you should be flowing a lot more air than a stock KA, and even stock KA's love 3 inch exhausts. If you want to be nice to the environment, you could run a 3 inch catalytic converter as well.

I think that would probably net you around 225+whp. You have to remember the DOHC KA only makes about 130ish whp stock. Also, these are the same things you would do to any engine if you were building it to make more power. It's really not that hard. There is no magic to making the KA make more power.

This info and estimated HP is pretty damn correct, +1 for you.

I also like how this thread started with someone asking about gearing and header flanges.

Ya it has TOTALLY gotten out of hand and off topic in the last couple pages.

[KasperSlide]

for the cost of making an NA KA 200hp. you could most likly do a vq35 swap and be happy

[Matej]

Blah I don't care for motor swaps and wrenching on cars, I like my KA because it's all plug & play, all I want is to make it just a little more fun.

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by racepar1

Ya it has TOTALLY gotten out of hand and off topic in the last couple pages.

I don't think the original question was ever answered.

[timster]

Originally Posted by racepar1

How is it any less of a KA? It is no longer a KA because it is badass or something? How much do SR fanboys spend for 250bhp (which translates to 200 or LESS hp at the wheels)? What makes a well done 200 or so hp KA unreliable and how do you know it is any cheaper with another motor? You are entitled to express your opinions, but WE are entitled to neg rep you and tell you that we think you are an idiot if that is OUR opinion. ESPECIALLY if you can provide no actual factual argument or numbers to back yourself up.

One question. How many 200+ hp N/A KAs have you seen that are reliable and streetable?

[Mr. Jesse]

Originally Posted by timster

One question. How many 200+ hp N/A KAs have you seen that are reliable and streetable?

I'm curious too. Does anyone have a built n/a ka? Is it everything everyone says it is, or supposes it will be like? I've been thinking of doing n/a myself.

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by g6civcx

I don't think the original question was ever answered.

Some of the original questions were answered (gear ratio, exhaust flange, realistic power potential, and an idea of the cost) but not all of the original questions.

Originally Posted by timster

One question. How many 200+ hp N/A KAs have you seen that are reliable and streetable?

I have heard of several here on zilvia, but have seen none in person so I cannot comment on the streetability of the motors. Reliability is not a problem with the KA's. KA's are known to have bulletproof bottom ends and valvetrains (other than the upper timing chain guide breaking). Also reliability really depends on the skill and attention to detail of the person building the motor. The thing is, if you are going to get seriously into a N/A build you already have enother daily driver, or you are insane (take your pick). So streetability is not that much of an issue. Also a well tuned well built KA will have a pretty wide powerband and lots of low to mid range power and torque, which are the primary things that make race motors almost undriveable on the street, all top end and no bottom end. The REAL concern is can it pass smog? I'm sure you can get one to pass, but it will take some tuning wizardry for sure. Everyone is sooo swap happy that barely anybody actually builds a good KA, but they ARE out there. Just talk to bigvinnie, he is a KA guy and has built more than one N/A ka.

[S14SwimShark105]

Originally Posted by racepar1

You wanna concentrate on what the turbos DON'T have, and that is torque and engine response. A stroker kit will significantly increase torque and response and that is where a N/A motor shines.

Wait, Turbo motors don't have torque or response? hahaha last time I checked, turboed cars have some pretty good torque numbers and there are many variables to the response on a turboed car. Have you forgotten the Mines Skyline GTR? Watch that video and tell me turboo cars don't have any response.
[ame]http://youtube.com/watch?v=42KwIMakoaE&feature=related[/ame][ame="http://youtube.com/watch?v=42KwIMakoaE&feature=related"][/ame]

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by racepar1

Some of the original questions were answered (gear ratio, exhaust flange, realistic power potential, and an idea of the cost) but not all of the original questions

Is there anything left to be said about gear ratio? It depends on your torque curve and the specific course.

Originally Posted by S14SwimShark105

Watch that video and tell me turboo cars don't have any response

I would venture to guess that the amount of tuning that went into that car is beyond 99% of what Zilvians are capable of. I would not consider those results to be typical.

Valid point nonetheless though.

[water]

Big vinnie is an idiot much like the rest of the KA fan bois around here. Nobody besides greaser has built (proven) a 200+ whp KA. And that was on race gas.

[water]

Originally Posted by racepar1

EDIT: You are a fucking douche for neg repping me for my dyno numbers from like 3 years ago! WTF is wrong with you? Post up your dyno numbers bitch!

You're just so ridiculous that I couldn't resist. Everything you say is speculation and/or rumor. And per your request...

s13sr blacktop
pb manifold
GT3071r
blah blah
14ish psi

That was a dyno during the tuning process hence the early cutoff. TQ stayed flat to 8k and made more peak hp than that. oooh yeah, check out that tq curve. I have more at 17psi and another at 21psi...didn't think they were necessary. Now show me yours mr. happy.

[water]

Originally Posted by racepar1

Why do you think it is so difficult to make 200 hp with a KA? Do a mild build on the bottom end, get it balanced and blueprinted, spend the REAL money on the head/intake manifold, get a good ECU and get it tuned well, and just the normal bolt ons from there (intake, exhaust, headers, etc...), and there is your 200hp. It's not that complicated, you just have to pick the right cams and get a good tune. Most people who build KA's for 240's are doing budget builds, not full builds.

I have seen multiple built KA's 20whp shy of your 200whp. What is holding them back? Why has Greaser been the only one to surpass it?

Oh wait you answered..

Originally Posted by racepar1

That is why you do not see very many 200+ hp KA's. Not because it is really complicated or terribly difficult, but because people like YOU do not think that it is worth it.

Its my fault? Shit, I'm sorry KA community.

Originally Posted by racepar1

If you don't like it and would rather spend your money on a golden turd SR then go ahead and do it.

I did.

Originally Posted by racepar1

Just shut the fuck up about things that you don't really know about.

I have personally crated and shipped 3 different KA's to Robello for an ITA/ITS 240sx team I was part of years ago. That was just the start. I'm not even bench racing here, unlike you. I'm just trying to be practical.

If you really think that a GT3 spec KA is the ultimate KA and it can't get better than that you are an idiot. They are restricted to only the singlecam (which doesn't flow as good as the DE), they are restricted on the throttlebody bore size that they run, and they are restricted to stockish bore and stock stroke. Without those restrictions I am willing to bet that you could push 400hp out of a N/A ka with a huge budget.

I am 100% sure a better build could be done. You just seem to have trouble recognizing the difference between a street engine and a race engine. Race engine life spans are measured in hours for a reason. And run race gas for a reason. Boy you're an angry one.

[timster]

Originally Posted by water

Big vinnie is an idiot much like the rest of the KA fan bois around here. Nobody besides greaser has built (proven) a 200+ whp KA. And that was on race gas.

Which is surprising, because it's apparently easier than hell to do.



.. Sarcasm again.

[water]

Originally Posted by racepar1

You wanna concentrate on what the turbos DON'T have, and that is torque and engine response.

Wait so then where does all that extra hp (when turbocharging) come from? Because I always though hp=tq*rpm/5252

And you can have excellent response in a boosted application. Lets not get carried away with BS here.

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by S14SwimShark105

Wait, Turbo motors don't have torque or response? hahaha last time I checked, turboed cars have some pretty good torque numbers and there are many variables to the response on a turboed car. Have you forgotten the Mines Skyline GTR? Watch that video and tell me turboo cars don't have any response.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=42KwIMakoaE&feature=related

As previously stated those results are not typical. Typically a well done N/A motor is more responsive than a turbo motor because a turbo motor has to wait for boost. I never said that turbo cars are completely unresponsive pigs, but the turbo cars that I have driven definitely lacked responsiveness to some extent (FD RX7, z-32, WRX).

Originally Posted by water

You're just so ridiculous that I couldn't resist. Everything you say is speculation and/or rumor. And per your request...

s13sr blacktop
pb manifold
GT3071r
blah blah
14ish psi

That was a dyno during the tuning process hence the early cutoff. TQ stayed flat to 8k and made more peak hp than that. oooh yeah, check out that tq curve. I have more at 17psi and another at 21psi...didn't think they were necessary. Now show me yours mr. happy.

Ok, cool. Now how much money did you have to spend to get there (including the swap)? When did I ever say that my motor was the shit? NEVER! I have a STOCK ka dude! I guess I'm just not cool because I am MUCH more concerned with how my car handles and stops than I am with a pretty dyno sheet.

Originally Posted by water

I have seen multiple built KA's 20whp shy of your 200whp. What is holding them back? Why has Greaser been the only one to surpass it?

Because none that I have seen were built right. They all had janky motorcycle ITB's (which are too small) and they all had insufficient headwork, and THAT is where ALL the power is. 99.9% of the N/A ka's that I have seen built were budget builds, which means that there were significant shortcuts taken.

I have personally crated and shipped 3 different KA's to Robello for an ITA/ITS 240sx team I was part of years ago. That was just the start. I'm not even bench racing here, unlike you. I'm just trying to be practical.

WOW the UPS workers must be the smartest people in the world then because they ship all kinds of stuff and according to you that means that they are experts in whatever they shipped. Get fucking real man! I spent my teenage years in the garage with my dad building his formula atlantic motors! Not crating and shipping them, but measuring clearences, pouring over flow charts for different port/valve combinations on our test heads, assembling the damn things, and then going to the engine dyno shop and analyzing what we did. I am being perfectly practical for the knowledge and experience that I have.

I am 100% sure a better build could be done. You just seem to have trouble recognizing the difference between a street engine and a race engine. Race engine life spans are measured in hours for a reason. And run race gas for a reason. Boy you're an angry one.

No I don't! The two big differences between a street and a race motor are the compression ratio and the cams. If you run lower compression and more reasonable cams a race motor will be just as reliable as a street motor, if not more so since they are assembled better. You can have a badass mani/port/valve combination without sacrificing ANY reliability at all! You can even run a badass race cam without sacrificing reliability! It is when you run lots of compression that the engine gets more stressed and reliability and engine life suffer as a result. Why does everyone think that a race motor is sooooo different from a streetable one? It isn't! And if I am the angry one then why the hell did you just make like 5 posts ranting about a bunch of crap? I made one about you!

[Mikey213]

Hee.hee.i'll.show.you.guys.TWO.200whp.KA.next.year .march.=0)
Some.Japapino.friend.and.hopfully.my.s13

[S14SwimShark105]

Originally Posted by racepar1

As previously stated those results are not typical. Typically a well done N/A motor is more responsive than a turbo motor because a turbo motor has to wait for boost. I never said that turbo cars are completely unresponsive pigs, but the turbo cars that I have driven definitely lacked responsiveness to some extent (FD RX7, z-32, WRX).

A properly built motor that is made for turbo charging would be pretty damn responsive if built right and paired with the RIGHT TURBO. When racing you are always above 3k-4k rpm anyways, if you have the right turbo, you will always be at peak boost ALL the time meaning instant power.

Originally Posted by racepar1

The two big differences between a street and a race motor are the compression ratio and the cams. If you run lower compression and more reasonable cams a race motor will be just as reliable as a street motor, if not more so since they are assembled better.

You just contradicted yourself here. You said the 2 big differences between a street motor and a race motor are the compression and the cams. If you lower the compression and run more reasonable cams on a race motor would it be a race motor anymore? haha There are many many differences from a race motor and a street motor. Properly built race motors don't cost an arm and a leg just because the main differences are compression ratio and cams.

Like " Water" was saying, "a race engine life spans are measured in hours for a reason". Take funny cars for example or top fuel cars. They usually rebuild their engines or swap in a new engine after EVERY PASS/RUN.

[svensko]

I'm all for NA KA. I currently drive a stock KA and refuse to drop money on a turbo kit when I feel suspension/braking is more important in a track setting. The issue with the NA KA is that there is hardly an aftermarket, and the parts that do exist are EXTREMELY expensive. $3K+ for a stroker kit? You can get them for a 302 for <$500 . In order for the NA KA to break the 200 HP mark regularly and reliably, the following things need to happen.

Destroker kit... High revs + huge cams are pretty much our only hope...

Someway to redo the head... If we are going to be revving high, we need a high flowing head. If someone with a few junk heads lying around can find a way to make the head flow better and prove it with a flow bench and then offer their skills for cheap, that would help a ton. Someone on a 22RE (Toyota 8 Valve I4) forum actually welded metal into the ports of the head and then completely reconstructed the head that way.

ITBs built specifically for the KADE... ITBs with the proper diameter instead of botched GSX-R ITB jobs.

Until these are offered and offered at reasonble prices for your typical NA KA builder, the NA KA doesn't have a performance future.

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by S14SwimShark105

A properly built motor that is made for turbo charging would be pretty damn responsive if built right and paired with the RIGHT TURBO. When racing you are always above 3k-4k rpm anyways, if you have the right turbo, you will always be at peak boost ALL the time meaning instant power.

I really don't know why we are arguning about this. It is common knowledge that N/A is more responsive. That's not to say that you can't build a responsive turbo motor, mine's proved that you can. But N/A is even more so. The powerbend is generally fatter, which means that as soon as you step on the gas the power is ready. A turbo motor is more of a surge, You get nothing untill you start building boost and then comes a massive surge of power all the way to redline. With a N/A motor the power comes on smoother and sooner in the rpm range, which allows you to shortshift and still be in the powerband. There are many situations where shortshifting is beneficial and with a turbo motor you end up off boost.

You just contradicted yourself here. You said the 2 big differences between a street motor and a race motor are the compression and the cams. If you lower the compression and run more reasonable cams on a race motor would it be a race motor anymore? haha There are many many differences from a race motor and a street motor. Properly built race motors don't cost an arm and a leg just because the main differences are compression ratio and cams.

Like " Water" was saying, "a race engine life spans are measured in hours for a reason". Take funny cars for example or top fuel cars. They usually rebuild their engines or swap in a new engine after EVERY PASS/RUN.

Race motors have short lifespans NOT because of how they are built (that gives them a longer life span), but because of the added strain and heat caused by the higher compression/boost that they run (not to mention being driven to the limit pretty much every second of their existence). If you take a race motor and run lower compression and milder cams, you now have an extremely reliable street motor. Race motors are built to tighter specs than a stock motor. The clearences being just right everywhere means a longer life on the street. Race motors cost more because they are built more precisely using better materials, which is what you want to do with a built "street" motor as well. The only other part of a race motor that can affect engine life is the crank. Super-duper light cranks tend to wear bearings faster due to vibration. With a KA that is not an issue though as even the race cranks are not extreme enough to cause that problem. Bringinq up a funny car/top fuel motor is absolutely ridiculous here man. Those motors are stressed to the absolute limits of their designs and that is why they are replaced pretty much every run. I don't see how you think I contradicted myself here.